Sir Henry Blount (1636)

In 1634, Sir Henry Blount — then thirty-two years old and hungry for knowledge beyond Christendom — joined a caravan of Turks at Venice and traveled through the heart of the Ottoman Empire: Dalmatia, Bosnia, Belgrade, Constantinople, the Aegean, Rhodes, Egypt, and Grand Cairo. His account, published in 1636, was remarkable for its open-minded sympathy toward Ottoman civilization at a time when most Europeans viewed Muslims with unquestioning hostility. Blount argued that the Turks maintained "another kinde of civilitie, different from ours, but no lesse pretending," and that personal observation was worth more than any book. The text went through eight editions in his lifetime. This is the second edition, published in London.

Intellectuall Complexions have no desire so strong, as that of Knowledge; nor is any knowledge unto man so certaine, and pertinent, as that of humane affaires: This preference advances best, in observing of people, whose institutions much differ from ours; for customes conformable to our owne, or to such wherewith we are already acquainted, doe but repeat our old observations, with little acquist of new. So my former time spent in viewing Italy, France,and some little of Spaine, being countries of Christian institution, did but represent in a severall dresse, the effects of what I knew before.

Then seeing the customes of men are much swayed by their naturall dispositions, which are originally inspired andcompofcd by the Climate whose ayre, and influence they receive , it seemes naturall , thac

to Q\it Nffrtfj-fVeJl parrs of the Werld, no people should be more averfe , and ftrangc of behaviour, then those of the South-East : Moreover, those parts being now possest by the Turkes , who are the only moderne people, great in adiion, and whose Empire hath so suddenly invaded the World, and sixe it [die such firme foundations as no other ever did j I was of opinion, that he who would behold these times in their ereatefl: glory, could not finde a better Scene then Turky.- these considerations sent me thither j where my gCTierall purpofc gave me foure particular cares :

Fifst, to observe the Religion, Manncrs,and Policie of the Turkes , not perfectly , ( which were a taske for an inhabitant rather then a passenger,)but so ftrre forth, as might satisfie this fcruple, (to wit) whether to an unpartiall conceit, the Turkish way ap peareabfolutcly barbarous, as we are given to under stand, or rather an other kinde of qivilitie, different from ours , but no lesse pretending :Secondly , in forac measure , to acquaint my selfe with those other fedis which live under the Turkes, as Greekes, Armem 4>is,Fremks, sndzinganaes^ butcfpccially the/^wwj a race from all others so averfe both in nature andin ftitution , as glorying to fingle it felfc out of the rest of mankindc, remaines obftinate, contemptible, and famous :

Thirdly, to fee the Turkish Army, then go ing against Poland^ and therein to note, whether their discipline tJ^Hitary encline to ours , or elfe be of a new mould, though not without some touch, from the countries they havefubdued; and whether it be of a frame apt to confront the Christians, or not:Thclast and choice piece of my intent , was to view

./Cioogic

GranCiiro, and that fortwocauses; first, it being clcarcly the grcatest concourse of Mankindc in theic timcSj and perhaps that ever was ; there must needs be fomc proportionable spirit in the Goverrnncnt: for such varte multitudes, and thofc of witsso deeply malicious, would soonc breed con fiifion, famine, and utter desolation , if in the Tarvt;^ domination there vvercnothing but fottifli fenfualitic , as most chriiii AHs conceive :

Laftly , because Bg'^p is held to have becncthefountaineof all Science, andt^rti civill, therefore I did hope to finde foine (parke of thofc cinders not yet put out j or elfe in the extreme coni narietic, I iliould receive an impreflion as important, from the ocular view of so great a revolution , for above all other senses, the eye having the most ini mediate, and quicke commerce with the soule, gives it a more fmart touch then the rest , leaving in the fiiiifcy somewhat unutterable ■ so that an eye witnefle of things conceives them with aa imdginatipfj more compleat,strong , and intuitive , then he can cither apprehendjor deliver by way of relation j For relatii ons are not only in great part false, out of the. rclaters mif-information, vanitie, orintereftj but which is unavoidable, their choice, and frame agrees more na turally with his judgement, whole iffiic they are, then with his readers ■ so as the reader is like one feaftcd with dilhcs fitter for another mans ftomacke, then his owner but a traveller takes with Uis eye, andearc^, only such oa«r«»fw. into observation, as bis owne apprehenfion affcds, and through that fympaiiy, cm digcst them into an experience more naturall fdr himselfe, then he could have done the notes of ano^ A3 then:

thcr : Wherefore I desiring fomcwhat to informe my selfe of the Turkish Nation, would not fit downe with a bookc knowledge thereof, but rachcr(through all the hazard and endurance of travcll,) receive ic from mine owne eye not dazlcd with any affeftion, prcjudicacy, or mist of cducation,whLch preoccupace theminde, and delude ic with partialWi^f*^, as with afaireglaflc, representing the ff^;>(S in colours, and " proportions untrue: forchcjust ccnfurc of things is to be drawn from their end whcrcro they are aymcd, without requiring them to ourcustomes, and ordi nances, orother impertinent refpedis, which they acknowledge not for their touch-stone : wherefore hcc who passes through the severall educations of men, must not try them by his ownc , but wcyning his mind from all former habireof opinien^ (hould as it were putting off the old man, come frefh and sincere toconsider them;

This preparation was the cause, why thesuperstition, policie, entercainmeats, dict,Iodging,and other manners of the Turkes, never provoked me so farre, as usually they doe those who catechize the world by their owne home ; and this also barres thele observations from appearing be yond my owne closet,far to a minde poflest with any fetdoi^rine, their unconformitic must needs make them seeme unfound , and extravagant , nor can they comply to a rule , by which they were not made.NeverthcIelTc considering that experience forgotten is as if it never had beenc, and knowing how much I ventured for it, as little as iris, I could not bute fteeme it worth retaining in my owne memory, though not transferring to others : hereupon I have

./Cioogic

in thefc lines regiflred corny felfc, whatroevcrmost tookc me io my journey from Fenice into Turiy.

First, I agreed with a lanizary at Feake^ia find sic Dyct, Horfe, Coach, Paflage, and all other usuall charges, as hrttzsConHamim^le : Then upon the seventhof «JW4^, itfH* Iembai<^'d on arcwrtw/i Cally with a Caravan df Turkes , and /cif« bound for tht Levant, not having anychripa^ with them be fidcsmy selfe: this occasion was right tomypur pofci forthcfamiUariticofbed, board, and palTage together, is more opportune to difelofc the cuftomcs oi men , then a much longer habitation in Cities, where focietie is not so Unlet, and behaviour mote personate , then in travell, whofc common fuftbrings cndearemen, laying them open , and obnoxious to one another :

The not having any other Chrifiian in the Caravan gave mcc two notable advantages i First, that no other mans errors could draw cither hatred, or engagement upon me j then I had a free dome of complying uponoccasionof qucftionsby chem made j whereby I became all things to all men, which let me into the breafts of m^y.

The GaUj lying that day, and night in Port at Lh^ fee Saylcthe next morne,and in 24.houres, arrived at £6vittit a Venetian Citie in Ifiria : it stands in a creckc of the Jdriatiqne,upon a hill promontory which hath two thirds wafhed by the Sm^ the smh-Eajt side joy ncd to the Continent j the foyle rocky,and barren,as all that side along the (?»//< s itisan hutadredmilcs from Venice , and therefore being so ferre within the GwZ/'.is not fortified as againfi: much danger, yer hath it a pretty wall , and fortreife with a small Garrison : ,

from

from thence we came to Z4r4.- this Ciriestandsm D4matia,3J\doi&\ otherswithin the Gulf,is by rea son of the fciruation,most apt to command the whole Adriatique,^n<i therefore has formerly beene attemp-; tedby theT'tfr^t^; wherefore the rf«f//4W have for tifycd it extraocdinarily , and now though in times of firmc peace , kcepe it with strong companies both of Horfe,and Foot :

The GenerdSoi' the Horfe came in another Ca/iy with us, he was first welcomed with a volley of grear,and small Hiot from the wallesjthen by three Nobles therein severall Offioes comman ding, he was accompanycd to the Ti»«»#f^i»^, where his briefe Patent once read,hc had the Staffe,and Pre cedency of his prcdccefsonr: after a daycs view of this place, we Sayled to SfaUtn a City ofSclavoma, kept by the Teuetkm as their ofiely Emporium plyed fuc-. ceflively with two GalUes, which carry betweenc f^e nice, and that place , such merchandize as are tranf- ' ported into Tur.ky^Qt from thence brought in: it stands in a most pleasant valley on the -^ow^/rfc of great mountaines : in the wall toward the Sea , appearcs 3 great remainder of a ^-(//(rry in jD.w/(/w« his Palace:

Sintthaard of the towne is the Sea which makes an open Port capable often, or twelue GsSyes ; without is an unfecurc Bay for great Ships, at theentrjince a^ bove halfe a mile broad j yet not so renowned for the skill of OSiAvittSy who chained it up, when he beiic ged Sdltn^^is hx the fierce refoliwion ofralteius^ and his company there taken : in this Towne ■ cl^e f^tmti' ans allow the great Turke to take cuftpme of the Met thmdizt J whereupon there rcsides his Emir or Trea surer whopayes him thirticfive thpufaad DeUarsx

ycarc

./Ciaogic

yeare.as himfdfc.and others told me : there are high walks, andflrong companyes to guard this City j yet I heard their chiefe fafety to be in, having so un ufefull, and small an ff4W», wherefore the rwie c ftecmcsj'/Awineffoa, butasalandtownc, oorso much worth as his present custome, and so covets it not lilie Sar;io! if he did, he has a terriblcadvantage upon if, having taken from the yenetiiins clyp, not above fower miles off; which is the strongest land fortrcffcihati ever beheld.

At .S/4/4/ra having stayd three daycs, out Cotavm was furnillied with horsess the first journey we began about Sunfct our lodging two miles of we pitch'd up on a little hill, growneover With Imifer, once the feat ofSalonx a city famous, for their bravery against oElATjiHi -y thereis notnow fomuchasaruinelefr, excepting a poore piece of Bmkfmni aqutdidi:

Hence wee palled theHiUesof Z'o^//.i«4far higher then the Alfis,mi so steep,as in our defcent for three dayes together , it was a great precipice, rhen that halfe day his comming downe from Mount Cem^m to Piimtni ; having for the mod pait, rodethus nine dayes, wee came into a spacious,and frutefull playne, which at the w?/, where wee entred, atleastteo miles ovcr,is on the iy(j«i6, and 5«»'^ tides immured with ridges of eafy, and pleasant hilles, (till by de grees, ftrcightning the playne, till after fix or feveti. miles riding, itgrowcs not above a mile broade . there found wee the City Samh, which cxtendcs from the one side, to the other, and takes up part of both Afcents ; at the Eafl end standes a castle upon a steeperocke commanding the Tmme , andpassage B Eiijiward:

Bajl-wArd : This is the Metropolis of thekiogdomc of Beftidh: itisbutmeanelybuilc, and not great, rec koning about fourefcore OHefeheeioa , and twentic thouiand houfcs.

In my three daycs aboadc,the most notable things I found J was the goodnefic of the water, andvafte, almost^4W//if Ilacure of the men, which with their bordring upon Germany , made mc suppose them to be the off-ipring of thofc old Germans noted by Cx fir,zadTacitus for their huge fize,which in other pla ces, is now degenerate into the ordinary proportions of men:

Hence at our departure, we went along \f iih the Eajhatv of Sefnah his troopcs going for the warreoffo/rfffi/. they were of ffor/^ ; andfootbe tweenesixeor seven thousand , but went fcattering: the Bajhatv aot yet inpcrson, and the taking leave of rheir friends , Spirited many with drinke, difcon tent, and insolency ; which made them fitter compa ny for the Z);W/, then for a Chrifiian ; my felfc af ter many launces, and knives thteatncd upon me, was invaded by a drunken lankdry , whose iron Mace entangled in his other furniture gave me time to flee among the Rocks,whereby I cfcap'd untoucht :

Thus marcht wetendayes through a hilly country, cold, not inhabited , and in a mannet a continued Wood, most of i*;w trees: at length we reached VnHievah^ a pretty little Townc upon the confines of Hungary ^ where the Campe flaying feme daycs , we left them behind , and being to paffe a Wood neerc the Chi fii«9^Q\xaacy , doubting it to be ( as confines ate) fiill of Thieves, we divided our Caravan of fixfcore Horfe in two paitsj halst with the Pcrsons , and

Goods

./Cioogic

Goods of left eftceme, we sent a day before the rest, that so the thieves having a bootie, might begone before we cime ; which hapncd accordingly; they were robbed J onethiefe, and two of ours slaine; feme hundred {/o//ars worth of goods loft : The next day we paiftd » and found sixteene thieves , in a nar row passage, before whom, wcfetagood guard of Harqueiiuze, and Fifiols^xiW the weaker fort pafted by : 16 in threcdayes, we came fafe to Belgrade.

This Citie anciently called Tam-unum, or K^lha Cfitca was the UMetropolts of Hungary till wonne by Sultan Solyman the second,in the y care 1515. it is one of themost.pleasant, stately, and commodious fci tuations that I have seene : it stands most in a bot tomceficompafrcd£rf/;f-jrW, by gentle and pleasant afcents,cmpIoycd in Orchards, or Vvazs Southward isaneafiehill, part possest with buildings, therefta burying place of well-nigh three miles in compasse, so full of graves as one can be by another : the Weif End ycildsaright magnificent afpeifl, byreafbnof an cminency of land jetting out further then the rest, and bearing a goodly strong CafiU whoseswallesare two miles abouc , excellently fortified with a dry ditch, and out-works: this C^y?/? on the Weft side is walhcd, by thcgreat River ^4V4, which on the North of the Citie, looses it selfe in the Dambittt, of oldcalIed/^tfrnowD»«y, and is-held the greatcst River in the world , deepe and dangerous for Navi gation, runnes Eafi.rvard, into the Euxhe or if/ach Stay in its passage receiving fiftie andoddc Rivers, most of them navigable : two rarities I was rold of this river, and with my ownc experience, found true :

B 3 one

one was that at mid-day, and mid-nighr, the ftrcame runnes slower by much then at other timcs-this they finde by thenoyfe of those Boat-mtlles, whereof there ate about twcntie, lite those upon the Ii6oa>?eat Lysnt : their cl;ikkers beatc much slower , at thofc times then elfe, which argues like difference in the motion ofthewheele, and by const-qucnccof the streame; the cauCc is ndtbev any refuxe, nor flop of current by an/in^or otherwise. for there is no cncrcafc of water obfcrved;

The other wonder is thatwhere those two great currents mectCt their waters mitigic no more then watcr,and oyle ; not that either floats above other, but joyne unmixed, fotharneerc the middle of the river, I have gone in a Boat,and tafted of the Dknuhy as cleare, and pure as a well, then put ting my hand not an inch further, I have taken of the Sava. as troubled as a ftrcete channel I, tafting the gra vel! in my teeth ; yet did it not tast un^iietu^ as 1 ex pedled, but hath some other fecrct ground of the nn iif*thj which thoagh not eafily found out, is very ef fefSuaU i for they run thus threcfcore miles together, and for a dayes journey, I have becnc an eye witneffe thereof,

The c<i/?/e is excellently furniflicd with Artillery, and at the entrance , their stands an ArfenaU with some 40. or ];o. faire firafle pecces, most bearing the Armcs, and infcriptisn of Ferdwandthe Emperour : that which to me fccmcd fltangest in this CaJtU^ ( for I had free libertic to pry up,and downc ) was a round Tower, called the 2/«d!«M, acrueltie not by them Acvikd^ andfeldomcpratSifed, iti%'ikco\dR&t»e s Gcmom i the Tower is larg«,and round ; but within

fevcied

severed into many fquarcs oHongbeames,fctonenci about foure toot a funder ; each beamc was ftuck frc bucnt with great flefli-hookcs, theperson cotidcm ned wa? naked let fail amongst thofc hookes, which gave him a quicke, or lasting mifcryjas he chanc'd to light; then at the bottomc, the river is let in by grates, whereby all putrifad:ion was waflit away:

Within this great C^/Zp, is another little one, with wotksof itsownc; I had like to have mi ('carried, , wich approaching the entrance^ but the rude noifc, and worfelookcsof theCuard, gave me a timely ap prehenfion with sudden passage , and humiliation to fwectea rhem,and get off: for as I after learnt, there iskeprgrcatpart oftheCrawi'/^w/flr histreasure, to be ready when he warres on that side the Ew^/wi it is death for any Turke, or Chrifttan to enter ; and the Capuineis never to goe forth without particular li cence from the Emperfur :

Here the Bajha of Teme y«(i*rjoyning thepeopleofBtfi/rf, and hisownc, with thofc of Bif/^r4(/d, and Eofmfj,^hcy were hcldincam pedon the South ftdeoi theTowne, yet not fofe verely , but the Spahyes , Iamzamsfa.nd Featwiers^zd. leave to go before to the generall Rendivauz,^ as they pleafed,, though mod of them stayed to attend the Bafbaes j they there expeifted L^uratA Eafha ■ he five daycs after our arrival], came in with few Foot, but fbure thousand Horfe, ohhcSpahyTimariots; such Iwavc Horfes, aud Mea so dextrous in the ufe of the Xautice I had not seene : then was made publiqtie T>raclamation to hang all such laniz-mes, as should hz found behind chcfe Forces : with them the next day we fee forward foj Sopbja,'vi\xich m twelve dayes B 5. wc

we reacht j The Bapiaes did not goe all in company, but letting forthabout anhoure, one after another, drew ont theirtroopes iri length, without confufion 5 not in much exa(Ji order of Fi/e and Raake , as necre jio enemy : in this and our former Marcb,I much ad mired , that we had a Caravan loaded with Clothes^ Silkes,TiJfues, and other rich commodities , wereso fafe, notonly inthemaine Army, butin ftragUng troopes , amongst whom we often wandrcd by rea son of recovering the lemsSabhath-^ but I found the causetobcthe crueltie of /»/?/cf i for thieves upon the way are empaled without delay , orracrcy ; and there was a Saniacke with two hundred Horfe, who did nothing but coast up, anddowne thecountrey, and every man who could not give a faire account of his being where he found him , was prefcntly ftrang izd^ though not knowne to have offended : for their 7»/?/« although not foradiaswe suppose, yet will rather cut off two w;;ofe»/ men, then let 0'aZ9ffendar efcapc; for in the execution crtf an innocent, they thinke if hec be held guiltic , the example works as wcllasif he wereguilrie indeed; and where acon ftant deniall makes the faii doubted, in that executi on,the resentmcnt so violent terrifies the more;therc foreto prevent diforders sometimes, in the begin nings ofwivte/o/mra&le punilhmcntsare used, where /•/ones want: this fpeedy and remorceleffe feveri tie makes that when their great Armies lye about any Tewae, or j/aj/e, no man is endamaged , or troubled to secure his goods ; in which refpetS, it pretends more efied upon a bad age then our ChrifiUn compaf ^o», which is so eafily abused , as we cannot raile

two,

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

two, or three Cflw^4ww of Soiildkrs, but ihty pil fcr, and rifle whcrcfocver they paffe: wherein the wantofcrueltie upon dt/i«^ww/; caufcs much more opprcflion of the Imoient^ which is the grtfatest cru ehie of all : yet without their Army> there want not fcandals; for in the way, wepafTed by a Palafi^a^ which is a Village fortified with mud walles against Thieves } where we foundarraall Caravat) to have bccne aflaakcd the day before, and divers remaining fore wounded -■ for through all 7«r^;', efpccially in places desert there are many LMtu^taimrs , or Out- /rfB'w, like the wild /rz/A, who live upon fpcyle, and are not held members of the State, but enemies, and tifed accordingly:

In all our march, though I could not perceive much difiiplineis not ncere an adverfc particj yet I wondred to fee (uch a multitude so ck^tc of cifffujie/j, vioUme^ wntt^fick^ejpf or any o ther diforder^ and though we were almost three fcore thousand, and sometimes found not a towne in 7. or 8. daycs j yet was there luch plentic of good Biiket, Rice, and Mutton j as whcrcfocver I paffcd up,' and downc to view the Spahyes , and others in their tents, they. would often make me fit, andcate with them very plentifull,and well :

The severall Courts of the Ji^-Kj were served in great state; each of them having three or fourefcore CAmels , bcfidcs sixe or fcyen fcorc Carts j to carry the Bdg.^age : and when the SsJhM himselfe tooke Horfe, hee had five or sixe Coaches, covered with Clotk sfGold, or rich taptftryi tocarry his wives 5 some had with them fw^/iv or JfxteeKi thcleast«ff, who when they entred the Coachjtbece vvere men fet on each side,holding up a

14 A Voyage into the Levant,-

rowe ohapefiry, to cover them from being feenc by the people , although they were after the Turkifb manner muffled that nothing but the eye could ap peare.bcside thefc wivcs,each BajIh hath as maDy,or likely more Catamites^ which are their fcrious loves j for their Wives are used (as the Turkes themfclves told mc ) but to drefle their meat.to Laundreffe,and for repucatioo ;

The Boyes likely ot twelue,or four teene yeares old, forae of them not above nine, or ten, are usually clad in Velvet, or Scai-Iet, withguilt ScymiarSf and bravely mounted, with fumpttwiu fur nitttre -^ to each ofchem a Souldier appointed, who walkcs by his bridle, for his fafecic ■• when they are all in order, there is excellent i"^<fr^(r;j given to any who will drinkc; then the 5^/7j4 takes Horfe, before whom ride a doozen , or more , who with ugly Drums, braflc Dilhcs,and wind inftrumcnts,noire a long most part of the lourney: before all, there goe Officers,who pitch his Tenr,wherc he (hall dine or lodge: when meate is fetvcd up, elpecially at night,all the people give three great Shoutes .-Thefc are the chiefe ceremonies i remember.

That which secured, and emboldned my enquiry, and paifage these tweloe dayes March , was an acci dent the first night ; which was thus:the C«w/ttf being pitch'd oa che Shoatc of DambsHg^ went, ( but li moroufly ) to View the Service about Mur4th Bajhaes Court, where one ofhis favorite Boyesefpytngmcc to be a Stranger, gavemceaCupof Ji6fr^«j I in thiat^ks, atfed co malwfriends in Court, presented him with a Pocket iMit/sg'Giiy/e, in a little /fur^ Cafc, withaCfffflf^fi suchas utio\ds,tWefiminfier.haS iot

fourc

yCiopglc

foureorfive fliillingsapiece: The youth muchta Iccn therewith, ran, and ihewed ic to the Bajharv, who presently fcnt for mc , and making me fit , and drinke C4«^;&i in his preftncc , called for one that Tpake //« lian ; then demanding of my coitditimt farpfe, c»m trey , and many other particulars, it was my fortune to hit his humour so right, asatkfl;, he asked if my Law did permit mcto serve under them going against the Polacke who is a Chrifiian.^ promifing with his hand upon his breast, that if I would, Ishouldbe intalled of his Companies, furniffjcd with a good Horie , and of other neceflaries be provided witB the rest of his Houfhold ;

I humbly thanked him , for his ftvour , and told him that to an Englishman it was lawful! to serve under any who were in League with our King , and that our King had not only a League with xhz Gran Signior ^ but continually held an ^?»^4/<</iJ»r at his Court, elleeming himthcgrea test MBnareh in the World: so that my Service there, cfpecially if I behaved my selfe not unworthy of my Natitn , would be exceedingly well received in Eng.

Und.^ and the i**'/*-^^' , though in name a Chrtfiiaa, yet of a Se^ , which for Idolatry , and many other points, we much abhorred i wherefore the Eaglijh had of late , helpt the Mufctvite against him , and would be forwarder under the T»rkes, whom we hot only honored for their glorious adions in the world; but also loved, for the kindc Commerce of Trade which we firideamongst them:But a$ formypre sent engagement to the warrc, with much forroWj I acknowledged my incapacitie, by reason I wanted iMgMge-jVthick would not only render mc uncapable C of

Commands, znd so unserviceaHe, but also endanger mc in tumults, -vthctt I appearing a Stranger,and not able tocxprefle ray affedionj might be miftaken, and u(ed accordingly; wherefore I humbly cntrearcd his Highnefle leave to follow my poorc affjires, with an eternall oblige to SUzwihis honourable favour whercfocver I came :

He forthwith bade me doc as liked me best ; wherewith I tooke my leave, but had much considence in his favour, and went often to ob fcrve his Court. In this journey we pafTed through a pretty little towne , called itfr^j where we flayed while the /f»vj kept x.\tiiSabhMth: here a little be fore night, Wine having poffcst a /4ff/x^^ , and one other Tsr-^^, who rode in my Coach , they fell ouc with two countrcy felloweSv and by violence tooke anAxefromoneof them, not to rob him, but for prefcntufe thereof, which being done, 1 gave him his Axe againe , as not willing in that place, to have lb much as the beholders part in a quarrell:

Thefc feilowesdogg'dus: the /4»/a<<r)' they miffed , but at mid-night came to our Coach where we flepc, and opened the cover j whereat I fpeaking in Italiaa, they knew me ; wherefore leaving mce , they drew thtTHrke by nccke, and (houlders, and gave him twa blowcs with Scymitars, one over the arme , the other upon the head , in such fort as we left him behind in great danger of death: they fled, I was found there all bloudy, and so taken, had surelythenextday becne executed, but that within lesse then halfcan hourc, the hurc person comming to his senses, cleared me, celling how it came,and by whom.Thus in twelue daycs, we came xoSo^hy*, the chiefe

./Cioogic

chicfeCitie (after the Tariz/Jdivifion) of Bul^Ary, but according to the other Geo^raphj , it stands m LMxcedonu, u^oa the con^ricsoX The jfalj^ nor hath it yet loft the old Grecian civility, for of all the Cities I ever paired either in Chrijlendome, or without, I ne ver saw anywhere astranger is IcUe troubled cither withd/w»;f,or^^^/»^.- it stands almost in themidst of a long , and fruitfull valley j on the Nerth.side a bout fourc nniles diftanc , runncs a ridge of low hils ;

Stuth-mard three miles of stands an high , and steepe raountaine, where Snow appcares all the yeare: the letves and Chrisfiam have here the doores of their houses little above three foot high, which theytold me was , that , the Turkes might not bring in their Horfcs, who elfe wouM ufc them for Stables in their travellj whichi noted fora figne of greater flavcry then in other places.

Here is the Seat of the BegUrheg or yiccrej of all Greece , by the Turkes called Rumely j with many brave Ji/^/f^«««,crpeciany the great one in the mid dle of the Tewne, and another on the Seuth-side, with a magnificent CoUedge .- it hath many ftatcly Hanes or Kirevafiferahes, and exquiilte Bathes, the principall hath a hot Fountain? : Here the bufincfte of our Cj. ravM ended , nor had my lanizary much d efire to takcany of new; for he naturally having more of the ii/.rrcid«* in him, then of the .?w^«r, would nod goc further for feare of being forced tothewarrc; wherefore he stayed twentie dayes at Sophya, till the Campe was removed , and the Gram Sigmor returned to Co»Bmtino pie ', Thus I neither fw the £**^<«iWf Person , nor the mainc body of the ^rmy j only C 2 herein

t8 A Voyage into the Levant.

herein was my fuccelfe Hiort : as soone as the lamza' ry thought the coast clearc, we went foure Coaches in threedaycs to Potarzeekethe palTagc is famous for Antiquities : sixtccne , or eightecne miles Edst.witrsi oiSophyaj we past over the Hill Rhodope where orphe. «r lamented his Euridice : it. hath divers inequalities ofground, none very steepe, all covered with Low Woods, now watched with divers, whobyrcafbn of the frequent robberies there committed , doe by little Drums, give the inhabitants warning of all fuf picious passengcrs : in the lowest of thofc defcents runncs alittle Brooke, of which I conjeftured, and a learned /*», ( to whom I owe mostof my informati on), confirmed, that the old Poets had made the Ri ver Strymen , where the difconfolate Orpheus was torne in pieces by the Thracim Dames ; for that place hath ever beene uncertainly reckoned , to MacedsnU, Thrace, and Thefaly.

At last we came to an high , and large mountaine, of a dayes journey over ; the leiv held it to be tljc ThermtpyU j a place as ftoutly contefted for of old, as now the rdt$Unt with us j herewith he told me that EaBerne custome of wearing Tmltants came from thence • and that how once ^cBarharom peo ple having the Grecian Array at a great advantage, there was no other remedy , but that fomc ftw ftould make good that narrow passage, while the maincof the Army might efcapc aw^y i there werC' brave Spirits who undertooke it ; and knowing they went to an unevitable death , they had care of no thing but 5cf»//»« , whichof old was much regar ded j wherefore each of th«in carryed his winding

fliecte

./Cioogic

fliecte wrapt about his head , and then with loflc of their owne hvcs faved their fcUowcs ; whereupon for an honourable mcmOTiall of that exj^oir, the levM tims ufcd to wrap white Immn about their heads , and the fa/him Co derived upon the Turke.

This may be the Story of Leonidas with his three hundred Sfartams, but corrupted by time, and tradi tion : when I had considered the passage , it Teemed capable of his relation; and this might well be the Thermo^yU, if they were {o neere the Philippick Fields; for beside his confelfionj the tradition of divers there inhabiting, and all concordance of Sto ries afTure us , that the Champ^igne betwcene this <MouHt4im and VhiUffofolh , of above fortic or fifty miles long,was from that Citic built by PhUip,caikd CampiPhilippici, famous for the RtmancmM warres, there decided in tm Battels ; the first betwecne C^far^ and Pompeyy The other betweene AuguJim and liArkt Aatwy^ against Brutm and Cajfius .• the Plaine, butthatitisa Valley, much refcmblesourDownes of Marlehoreugh , where the Saxens as it is thought had a great Battell ; for just in that manner, there yet remained the heapes were the slaine were buried, and good pan of the Trenches .- the two Battels were fought sixtcene or eighteene miles afunder, as ap peares by the Sepalchtr.s\ andthc7>Mf^«j Ctfars. was neia the Hill ; the other necrer PhilippopoUs .• which for want of other authoritic, I conjciaured thus ;

First, in Caf4rs Battell there dyed but fifteene thousand, two hundred; in theothcr almost twice as many ; this proportion is made good in the heaps,, thofc coward PhilippoptU being greater, and much. C 3 more more in number then the other : then C^/at Writes tim After Pomfny, and the maine of his Army was fled, a refidue not yet difpcrst retired to a hill sixe miles of, which had a River runnc under it i This fquarcs right with a hill on the Smth-sideof Potar zteke, a liitic Townc betweene the two Camfes, and where my two dayes abode, gave mc Icafurc to rcadc Crf/ir his Commentary thereon , which onpurpose Icarryedtoconfcrrc upon the Place, forthebetter imprcflion : This FoUrzeekt had it not bcene re markeable forthe place , was not worth mention \ for it is but a small Towne reckoning not above foure thousand houses, but is very plealant with hilles, and a River Southward.

Hence wepafred^aff-wrfrdfj through the rest of the Plaine along the Monuments of Br»r«f, and Caf 7?!^ his defeature: the T»w«/i are many, /bmegrear, some small , more or lefTc close together , as the slaughter hapncd, and reach at least eight or nine miles in length, extending as it fccmes the flight did, towards Philippopolii , now in Turhp} called PiiUhee, where in two dayes we arrived.

A little before the c*;«, omhc North side , wee fiw the Grtm Signior his Stable of Camels , where is Place, and Order for five thousand Camels, which car ry his provifioo when he Warres on this side his Em pircj and then the gtaaaW Sendivouz. ufestobcin these Philippick Fields , now termed the Plaineof P# tarz4eket through which also runncs the River J/# rijfa , in fomc places called //rfrw^-fcallow but very broad : over this River at the North entry of P/>y MeCfii a vaftc Wooddcn Bridge, more then a quarter

of

./Cioogic

ofa mile long-, Through the middcftof thisC/z/V, from North to South , runnes a ridge of rocky hilks, partly taken up with buildings j the rest with Se pultures , among which I found a little Greekecha^ ptl, built in the old Gtntilifmt • as a Gretke told me, and it appearesalsoby thetound forme, with equal! divifion of Altars j there remaincs nothing remark able :

After five dayes stay , we went fourc dayes journey through many pretty Townesof Thrace, till we came to thechicfc Citie thereof, and one of the principall in all Turky : This is AndrinofU in Turkish Heidrimce, of Hddrkh, who repaired it : originally it was ftyled OreUs from its Founder j for as the Creekes there pretend , it was built by Ortfies Sonne to AgMfiemnott .- Vntill the conquest of CoaflMtm fle, it was the Tarkes Empaiall Sear ;

Nerth-Eafi Ncrthf md North-Weft, lyc certainc Lowandeaile hillcs, amongst which gUdesthe Uttle River 7«»y, from the North-side, of the Citie to the Weft, where meeting a branch of the Mari^^ ,, it paffes a mile or more South-East , where jpyning with the other branch , it runs (lately through the adjoyniog Plaine, on which Zerxet first Most^rcd his vafte Array, when he had palled the HelkfpMt^

This Citie among divers other names, hath bcene called Trimontium, becaufcit stands upon three little hillesj or rather one low Hill, with three emincricies ; themidden: isthehighcftj andlargest, upon the top whereof, as the crowne, and glory of the other buil dings, standsastately mfefcheetobmhbySaltaaSt iymm the Second, with fourc high , and curious s^y<^, jU each conoer one, as the manner of Titrkj is j

not

not upon the church like our staples , but from the Greimdi each of them hath three rounds on the out side , for the PrieBs walkc, and at the top a great Clfie , and halfe-meonc of Gold : The Body of the <Meskeet6 like those of Ctnfiantwople ( though farre more curious ) is at the bottonic quitdranguUr , ha ving fourc Stories in hcighrh ; the two uppcrmost so contra(fted , as that divlfion which quarters the two lowcst into foure angles a piece , carts each of them into eight ; at either <»^/( of the upper story is agrcatroufldPjyMw/flfe.- they fupport the foofe , ia forme round,and eminent,all covered with Lead, up on the top whereof is fee a gMe of Gold ^ whereon Htmd SigoUen pillar , and an halfe-maeiie .' atthcbot tome of this building are inadc ten c0f$d»its with Cocks, on the Nortk/ide, and as many on the 5#«/i^, for people to wafh before Diviiie-Service ; to which Dfe also on the VTest-ftde, in the Chunh-yardaxe thirty, or fortie Ctfcyt'j under a fountaine io pifuptuofAs , As ex cepting one at Palermo, I havenot seene a beererin Chriftendsme •, on the Ea^-side are the chiefe Friefts lodgings J and garden; round the chmch-yArd ^^xc CUyfters, Bathes, ^ C&lledge v/khlodg'mg £ot Priejls^ and other ncccffary of^es , all covered with large round TnnneUs of Lead:

This edtfce is ootgreat, but of ftrudure so mate, and that so advantaged by [citu atioa, as renders it not only stately, and magnificent, but with such i delicaey as I have not seene tn any o ther place,no not in Italy .■ Befidcthisitf«/t«/*,there ' is anorhefbraTe one with foure Spyres , built by Sal tm selym, and many other oi two a piece ^ with fairc CeUedgcst Cloy^trs^ and Babes, equall to the iMond-

fieries

./Cioogic

fitrks of any one Citic in Cbrifiendtme , for qualitie, though not in number : it hath also many faire Hanes, all covered in like manner; folikewise are their Be ftfieim^ ox Exchanges, whereof It hath foure or five, some not much inferiour to ours in London , efpeci ally one^ which I guelTed halfe a mile in length, and richly futnifht with Wares: the chiefe Bridges are fourc, vaftc, and bigh, all of Stone : from the Seutb hridgeis the best view of the Citie , where it makes a gallant fhcw.

There yet remainc the walles of the tf/i/7flw«(f, which nowconcaine thefourth, and worfl: part, inhabited by ZinganatSt Chrifiians, letves, and others esteemed as refufe people: A little without the Citie I'itrth-ward , stands the Cra» Signior his SerrAglio^ with a Parke walled, fomc three miles compasse :The PaUce is very low, all covered with Leadr'iCm^u^ for a flat, into a fharpe round, and fecmcs but like a Gardenhouse for pleasure : it is kept by his i^geme^lofis, to cntertaine, not only the Gran Sigaior but in his abfence , any Bajhae, or other prin cipal! miniftcr.

After ten dayesstayat t^ndrim^le, we rode up and downe as bufinefle required , to Burgaz, Churlo, and divers other pretty Townes, all of them adorned with daigtie OHeskeetoes, CdlUdges, Hof^itals, fiamst and Bridges ■• for it is in Turky as in other King domes ; the neercr to the ImferiaU Citie , the more ftatcly is the coimtrey inhabited : having thus tra velled sixe dayes, we came to Selihee , of old Selym hrid i no great Towne, but bigger then the rest, and very ancient j the old Castle and tvalles not quite de molilhed : Ic stands upon the south-endoi a long, D but

24 A Voyage into the Lelpattt^

but low hill : the other three points are cncompassed by5i4,witharocky,andunfafePort; from whence on the other side of the Bay , you may difccrne a round Hill , upon which reraaine some ruincs of the old Citic Heraclea :Here we staycd two dayes, then withsonKdiverfion, in three more, we reacht Ctf/» fimmo^k : Thus had we made from SfaUtro fiftie two dayes journey , and as many in severall abodes ; ever lodging upon the ground , for the most part, in open Fields; and paffing by land pfmm hundrcth miles £ff^///J . not in the dired way, for that had bccnc fliorrer, tiut as led by the bufineflc of the Urns, who were Patrons of the Caravan :

CorsHantinople by rhcTurkes called SumhoU , ( which as they told me figniiies_/4/f-6, and plestie) hach an uncertaine originall: is famous for its ruine under the Empe roui Severuif and its reparation by Cfl«/2<t»/;»c .■ o ther times it hath bcene fackr, but finally Jm. 1 4.5 3. loft by another Conftantine , as the former sonne to another Heiien .• to this lolTe it may be said to gaine ; forit isfinccatanhigherglory, thenithad before, being made Head of a farre greater Empire : of old it was ever baited , by the Thrackm on the one side, mdCreciam ontheother; butnowitcommandso vcrboth:

I flayed here but five dayes, whercforel had not leisure for much observation : in this hast, I put my thoughts upon two points j First, to view ihechiziepuhlique fights t thentocoosiderthe judge ment of thofc ancient Emperors, v/ho so often thought of transferring the Seat of the Empire from Reme, thither: for the first j the Emperours Peiha I could HOC fee , who was then at Scnfm which is as it were """" ■ " " ■ pa«

puTtofCe/tJldntmeple, though severed by the mouth of thcblacke Sea a mile over: The Seraglio fsaw as farrc as Strangers ufe, havitig accefle into the fe cond Court: Thebuildinglow, and outwardJy but meane; with a low Cloyfter of many (mdWfiUars : (he inside I (aw not ; but an infinite fwarmeof 0/^ fcers, and AttendAnts I found, with zfikncc, and revt renceSo wonderfuIl,as ftew'd in whatawc they stand of their ^flvfr<«^»c.- Astones caftfrom theoutcr most entrance stands that famous old church StmSa Sephjay thence went I to fee the other iMeskeettes that of ^*&*OTe; the Second, who wonnetheTov^f 5 that of Achmat which is the most fpendidof allj inso that of Sultan SplymM I went to view it through out , but found it no way equall to his other at J»~ drifjopu^ which in my eye is much more Magnificenf, then any of those at Confiaminople -■ Then saw I the Egyptim Oeelisk, the Brazen pi/lar of three Snakes, the aqueduiiy and many othenhings , with that hor rid gap made by fire.

Am. 1633. where they re port seventic thousand houses to have perilhed : The other, and chicfe pan of my centem^Uthn, consisted iathefcitaatiotti which of all places , that I ever be held,is the raost apt^ to command the world ; for by land it hath immediate commerce with Greece,Thrace and from Sci»*ri with i^Jia :By Sea the Pfintus or blackc Sea , and the Marmora or Hellejpontj not only furnifh it with infinite store of Fist in Port j but rea dily carry their commodies abroad , and bring o thcrs homej and which is above all, the mouthes of both thofc Seas are so narrow as no pafiTage can be forced against the Cajlles > so as for firenpb, pUntie, D 2 and

i6 A Voyage into the Lei^ant.

and commoditicjno place can equall it : Then it stands almost in the middle of the World , and thereby ca pable of performing commands over many Coun tryes, without any great prejudice of diftance^ the wane whereof caused that the authoricie of Rome, could never reach the Parthianst and hardly Germmj, and raised that , that maximt left by Augufim — coer ctftdss Imperii termims : for hee who confidcrs the sudden accidents oi State, with the difficulties of re mote Fercest^^nd other dijpatches, must needs acknow ledge thenecefliticof (as it were) a U^4thematicaU correfpondencc from the Center, xo the Circumfereme-y this perhaps the Cmivw of 5^-*/W finds too truejwhose grcacneffc could not elfe in the skirts of its Empire, receive such blowes , from such pettie enemies as it docs.

Inthatlobfcrved no more of fogreata C///f, I doe not much accufc my felfc i forthcchiefe time I'had to view , was my firfl: two dayes,when I lodg ed with the Turkes > in the fJane of ^Jltehemet nap)4; afterward I Shifted into Chrifiian habit , and went o vertoG4/<tf^, where I was very courtcoufly enter tained in the house of an EngUp GemUman, to whom I was recommended s Next after I had kiffed the hands of the right Honourable, Sir Peter Weych Lard EmUjfadmr for His UHajeBj ef EngUnd, I tooke an inftant opportunitie of passage for ^gj-p/ , upon the Mtake Seat Fleet , which three daycs after departed for i^lexoftdria .• here I found the company of a French Gentleman,and a Flemip> j we embarqucd up on the Admir»U GaUon, hyring to our fclves the (7«« ntrs Rfsome, of the Matters thereof, who were two Renegadoes that fpake good Ittliiot ; ftraite wee &t

Sayle

HosicabyCiOOQic

Sayleforthof the AZ-tf-woM, downe the f/f/Zf^o;;/ in alls*?. Veflcls, in iwodaycs arrived at Grf^if/'/'c/;', so named of the French , whofc fury hath many old Momments 'v!\ the Levmt ; here wee lay ac Anchor that night, stayiiigforfomc Cemmiffiem which were to come after, or as I rather conjedturedj for newes of the Rhodim Galiyes , which the next day met us a little below the CaJllB ^ to be our Convoy against Fjracy , QxChrifitans:Some thirtic miles beneath Gallipfolj is the ftteightest pafflige of the HelUfiem, not above halfc a mile broad j a place formerly fa mous for Zerxts his Bridge, but much more glorious in the loves of Hero , ^xidLe4nder :

Thefc Castles cslledthc DardMeUi, command thsp'tfage , and are thefccuritieof CffH/?4»fiafl/'^onthatside: That up on Europe anciently Sejies, is made with two Towers, one within the other j the inmost highest, by reason of the rifing ground upon which they stand, each bearing the forme of three Semt-cw/es, with the out wall TrianguUr :The other upon thc^fim Shoare, is farre stronger , standing on the Marifh levcll ; ii is of forme fquare with foure round Tffrre//, at each corner oncj in the middle before stands an high fquare ToiPfr commanding overall:

This formerly was named A^ydos,not that the buildings remaine the famCjbut often rcedified in (he iame place: we paflfed foleifurcly as gave me time to note the K^rtiliery^ which I found thin alost , but plentiful! ac the boc tome upen the ground , looking out at fcverall holes made in the foundation of the walles, which flriking inalcvcU, hits a Shipbetweenc wind and water, and is a plantation much more cffetauaU then that above.D 3 About

28 A Voyage into the Levant.

About foffie foitie miles Sayle forth of that ttrcight, ontht A jiaa side, we reachc Ca^e Tanizar, anciently Promoiftorium Sigmm , where Trey flood , of which nothing remaines to be fcenc , but a piece of an oM wall some fortie or fiftic paces loDgjhatd by the Sea, and therefore said by yirgil to have beene built by Nepmae .• So hath that famed Towne now put on mm«rtalitie,:ia.ving no fA:;j?i«rt,but in Poetry : whose fiifiions by complying with the fancy of man, up hold themfclves beyond the Reslitie of their Suhje^ .* Beside the conceit of such a ruim , I tooke care to consider the jiidgerftent of Amiqaitie^ in the Sc/teatie/ti which I findenot to have beene extraordinary , ei ther for pledsure, cemmoditie, oxfirength :

The Pro montory makes an tingle which hath two sides encom passed by Sea j from South-weB to VTest^ with a com paflc turning from Weft to North ; on the other side Jyes abarrcn fandy Plaine now termed Troade, which some fifteene or twentic miles from Sea , is enviro ned by a ridge of Hi/Zes , the raost eminent whereof the T^rkef at this day call Jde , whereby I acknow ledged it for that Ids, where Prince Paris retiring ftom all wife affaires of Stdte , and frefermem of Court, lived an f^tfw/M^;^, and /«Ar»m«f life; which clad in FdlCf fames him there to have preferred FC' nus before Minervd, and imo; and to have given her the golden fruit of his youth , for which fhc fa voured him in the Rape of Hellen . but becaust nei ther Minerva nor lu^io aflifted that impreafe,therefore it proved both unwife, and difhonourable;

Abouc two leagues Wefi'tvard, is the little iland Teuedot, knowne for concealing the Grecian Navy at the taking

of

./Cioogic

of Troy : hence sayled we downc the AnhiftUgo^ through those lUnds so voyccd for AnciquitieS"iv»/ Inm [me mmint fixitm : Among them my eye fele ^ed Samffs, Scie, and PAthmts j for the wind Steering larbord dravc us within discovery thereof:

Sam9si% the only place in the World , under whose Rocks ,■ grow Spunges : The people from their infancie , are bred up w'ahdry BUket, and other extenuating Dyet, to make them extreme Icanej then taking a s^nnge wet in Oylethcyholdic, pare in their raouthes and part without, fogocthey underwater, whereat first rhcy cannot flay long, but after pradifc, fomc of the leaned flay above an houre and a halfe , even till all the Oyle of the Spunge be corrupted ; and by rhe Lawofthe/Z-jfli^, none of that Trade is fuflfercdto marry, until! he have ilayed halfe an houre under water 5 thus they gather Spungcs from thebottomc of rocks,more then an hundred fathom deepe; which with many other Stories of these Hands was told mc by ccrtaine Greeks in our Gaffettt .- Scio is reinarkeable for uW4/?if fe not elfc-where foiHid , and there only upon the South-ftde of the Hill , which I thought to be as zplmt not enduring the cold mndst or contrary vapors oi iheJVort^i They imputed it to S'^.Thio dors tearcs lead that way to Martyrderae^ yet unlesse he trjverfed much ground, many of those trees grow where he never came :

I applauded their ieliefe but kept my owne : Pathm$s is renowned for nuny ai^i ons of Saint lehn .■ I fanfiednone, till the Greekes pointed out a i^fJf^c under which they affirmed to be aGrdf, wherein hee wrote his y^/'Ofrf/^/pj ;In feme points things confeg:ated ate imitated bythe ordinary

wayes.

3 o A Voyage into the Lfieanu

_ wayes of men; to inftancc in prophane pieces LM<tho ntet was two ycares in a gret^ writing his Alcarm^ the SjbiU most: lived and prophecied in grots , as my selfe havefecne hersatC«w^, as also the ftudy and habitation q{ Virgil in a^m,at mount Pefdifc ; many old Oracles were delivered out o£Citverms,oT:

Grots in fummc the highest fanfies of men, have bccnc pro- • duced in such places j which in those who have no Difirie credit, I impute, partly to the/'Wv4f^, and aj}e^ of those retreats, which being gloomy, fiill, and fokmm, fettle, and contra^ the minde into prefomd ipeculation; but efpecially to the qualicie of the ayrtt a thing of mainc importance to difpofe the mt- : theayrc of those rocky Caruemes is not so dampe and earthy , as that of dungeons, Ror so immateriall, or wafting, to unfcttle aad tranfport the fhafitafie, as that above ground i but of a middle temper, wherewith it affeiSls the braine in such a fort as is fittest to exer cife its intillc^itali facultie , to the heighth of what its compBJititn bearcs :

Thus after we had in eleven dayes pafied riic Sontherm , and greatest part of vlyjfes his ten ^eares voyage, w£ came before Rhda, at the Eafi etidoi the liand where vre entred the Wind-tniSPotz^ so named by reason of many Wind-miils standing be Fore it; hard by is there another Port more inward, for the C4lljes , and of entrance so Ihallow , as is not capableof deepe VcflHs: here we stayed three dayes,' ,whichgavemefomcviewofthe place, and that so much the more by being taken for a Spy ; for in RhgJes is no pretence of Merchandize for a Chrifii4ni and but that ray excufc of going upon wager into £ ^//fcemcdpossible, I had here bcenc loft: yet in

thac

./Cioogic

that/j^rfM»,romc of them ait of such a bravery, as I had once before found in their Campe^ (hewed naec ihcPaUceoiFtrtrejfeQ^ the Gr4i$d tJMaJier former ly, with the o/Kf-wr^j, and three great deepe ditches, all cut m the quickc rocke round the Castle, except one part where it joynes with the chiefestreet: then they fliewed mee a high window towards the TVejl, telling me this Story ; that when Sultm Selyman be fieged the Towne, there flood in that window, the Gra/t fJMafter^ with a Nephew of his, and a chiefe £» geakre;Khcy considering the C4wp,the Engenieretold him they were happy that the enemy knew not the advantage of such a place pointing to the iide of a hill,whcrc certain Wind-mills stand ; for quoth he, if they should plane the Artillery there, we were loft ; herewith the young Nephew in hopes of preferment, tookc fccrctly fomc Tnrkijh Arrowes, and from the window, fhoc them into the Campc, having first writ upon them this discovery^ and his name: they being found, the advice was approvcd,and put in ex~ «iwf /#ff,which forced the Tmne in three dayes to ren der: s^/jpwrffl according to the Rule of f«w« more hravty then Politicke, causedtheTraitorto bcputto death :

This Citie on the £*/?, and Nprth, is encom paffcd by Sea ; the Sfitth, and iVefl joync by land to the rest of the lU)td;\t flands upon a little hill,reach ingtothe bottome thereof j it is foure miles from the old Cittie , which stood upon a steepe high hill, wboc now rcmaine part of the walles, and a poorc Vitlage.

I tooke a Boat td view the place where the C$l9ffm

floQiJi at tile cnciy of that Haven : there is not left

' E any

ji A Voyage into the Leyant*

say xemaiadei o f that Statue i buc the rocks whereon his faoting was,are wide enough for two great S^^s to paflc both together .■ why the Cm/diers did tranf fer their Scat from the old Citic, to the new, I could not learne, unlesse ic were for the Pert ; which being obvious to all commers , they had rather occupy it themfelvcs, thetileaveittoan;»i/.«£/fr: within the Citietht Armes of France are very frequent, the Sp4 mjh, and Imperially not in more then two or three pla ces j ours not at allwhereby I proportioned the oXdnatienali interefle in that order:The most egre gious itfo»«ff*w;j of any one GrauOMaJler, isof Pe ter S i^ubijfen a French man thcr,egovcrning above two hundred yeares since; heamongst othcrnotable works, built a round Tower , with many retired circles for Cembatants :

In the Wall before the Ha ven^iQ fcowrethc mouth thereof, he made two huge draffe PieceSjso vaftc as I never saw any sixe CanneriSj whose mettaU could make the lead of them -• In this Ilaad tht Sonne is {ofowerfall, and confitmt, as it was anciently Dedicate to Phfebut : they have a kinde of Grapeasbigas a Damfen, andofthatcolour, the Vines iivsateredhzaxz all the yeaFe,both ripe'Grapcs, halfis ripe, and knots; all togechcr upon the fame Vine: yetthat they may not weare out too soone, they ufe to forbeare watering of them in December ^ zadlamarj, during which time they beare nor, till after a while that they are watred againe :

Vpon my firstlandinfi I had efpyed among divers very koitou. rMe ?<y«/(i!(r«, one more brave then the rest, and new ; 1 enquired whose it was j a Tnrke not know ing w hence i was, told me ic was the Capme Bafi)ai

slaine

,yCioo|^Ie

slaine the yearc before by two EngUjh Sbips j and therewith gave such a Language of our Nat/tUt and thrcatningtoallwbom they should light upon, as made mc upon all demands profefle my selfe ^Scotch man ^ which being a name nnknowne to them, faved mee, nordidlfuppofcit any quitting of my Coun trey , but rather a retreat from one corner to the o thcr i and when they required more in particular, 1 intending ray owne/i/cWf more then their in^ru^i w.aafwcred the truth both of my Kmg, and Ctuittry^ but in the ould obfolete Greeie , and Latiae titles, which was as darke to them as a discourse of //x, and Ofyris; yetthe third day, inthe morning, Iprying up, and dowBC aIone,met a Turke who in Italian tola mee,ah ! are you an Engli/hman^ and with a kindc of malicious pofture, laying his ftrefinger under his eye, me thought he had the lookes of a defigne, he presently departed, I got to my Gallton, and durst goe to land no more :

The next mornc wee departed fot Alcxaniiria(si Egyptj accompanied with ten or dinary (?4//;m oi Rhodes^ andthrce old ones, which went to bee fold for fcwell: the weather although right in Sterne , grew so high, as the three old Gal leys periHied, two in the night with all their people, the third by day in our fight , but defpairing by times made up to a Galleon nccrc ours, and faved such of her men who were neither chained, nor othcrwifc cncombredj after three dayes full Say le wee arrived in Port i Alexandriadrii built by Alexander the Great, was after beautified by many, but efpecially by Psm fey : it beares yet the Monuments of its ancient glo ry:Pillars in great number, and Size both al>ove E 2 ground

./Cioogic

j4 A Voyage into the Ltfpant.

ground, and below , most o( Porphyry , and other tji^arhie as firme : The ancient Eg-iptiaas had a cu ^omenownot.inufe} that was to make as great a part ofthc house beneath ground as above .• that be low was the most coftly wuh Pillars, and rich Pave ments for rcfrefliment being their Summer habitati on ;thc upper part had the vaftcr pillars for fliew,but not thencatest: above all the rest, there are three farre beyond any that I ever saw elfc-where :That of i$mfey where his aihes were laid, upon the rocky Jbore iiard by where hee was slaine in a Boat at Sea : it is round, all of one ftonc, a kinde of reddilh gray Marble, To wonderfully vatt, asmademefalute his memory with the Poets Propheticall hayle-TViw/'/tf tmrtque feptdtut-vilinr ittn6r*ftret : it stands upon a (purC'fqM^te rocky foundation on the South-side of the Towne without the Wallcs :

Within on the North towards the Sea are two fquare oheluket each of one entire stone full of EgjpttM Bjtrogli^ fbiks^ theonestanding theo«herfallen, Ithinkeei ther of them thrice as bigge as that at Co»fia»tttufk, or the other at Romef and therefore left behind as to heavy for transportation ; ncere these oheliskes, are the ruined of CUefiarats Palace high upon the lhore> with the private Gate, whereat fliec received her MArkt Antony after their overthtaw at A^inm .- two ftoaes cast futther upon another rocke over the fliore i$ yet a round Tower one parr of Alexanders Palace, where yet in the walles remaines a passage of firicke Pipes part of a wndiikS}:The Towne is now almoil nothii^ but a whirc heapc of ruines j efpecially the S^t aodf^M^pans: The walles were h%h, and fr^uently

./Cioot^Ic

frequently fee with small Turrets, but not very strong except toward the Sea, where they stand up on great steepc rockes; The North, and WV/f are wafted by the Sea, which makes two Ports, each in formeof a halfc-Moonc: bctweenc them runncs a long narrow necke of land joyncd once by a Bridge, bucnow made firme land , withtbac thenan Ilaud caJIed the Phtrts .-a place which in Cxfurs judgement did command both the Port, and T»wne ; of which opinion the Turkes now are ; and therefore contrary to their usuall cuflome, they have there built a brave new Castle, which aofwers another little one on the other point of the Haven -■ these command the en try broad at least a mile, and halfe ; but how it could be done before ArtiUtry came up as Cafar affirmcs I wonder i nor are the Banks wider by time, asap pearcs say the wallcs, and old circuit of buildings up on the fljoarej on the Weft side of the M-wM, and under protcdlion thereof, is the other Port only for Oa/lyes^zs too fall of flic!ves,and rocks fordccpe boc tomcs.:

Frefh water is brought ro AUxtndri* in a large, and deepe channell cut by men, almost fourc fcoremilcs, through the wildernefle to the Nile! this channel] is dry till ihc Rivtr over-Howes, then runnes itinto the Citie^ but so low as they are forc't to get it up by chained buckets^ and wheelcs drawne witho,vM; foisitconveighed,andkq>cin Cifiernet, whereof now thereremaine but sixe hundred, of two thousand at the first :The earth cast cmt of those C/ /jTTflffjhath made two faire mouBts,upon one where of is fee a,Wacch-towcr, to give warning of 5*/^/. • upon the Smbofxhit Towne lyes that vast fandy E 3 Plaine,

Plainr, great part taken up with the fait Lake Mareo tit f EaJi-vfM-d not farre from the Sea, we rode tho row a Tandy defarr, forae 4o,ra jlcs to iEffj7<«* : All £ gypt where the Nils arrives not, isnothing but a whi* ti(h Sand bearing nografle, but two little weeds, cal led Suhit, and CtzMlij which burnt to afhes, and con veighcdto Veniee^ make the finest ChriftaS cUfes. yet are there many fort of trees, nourifhedby no moifturc, but the night dew which is abundant, for in Egypt it scarce raines once in three or foure ages .• above all , infioite number of Palmes grow every where with X)<tf«j as bigge as both ones thumbs .- In thcP]aine,the winde drives theSand into folds, like Sa0tv with us i so as if any winde ftirre, no tracke of man, or beafts lasts a quarter of an houre, wherefore to dirciS passengers , there are fet up round Brickc pillarSjfive, or sixe yards high, one within a mile of another, which put mcc in mindc of iheifrag/fies being guided forth of Egypt by Pillars:

Thus in a day , and a halfe, came we to Rofettt, formerly Ca w//wi a pretty little Citie, it stands upon the JV//.?, foure miles from its entry into the Sea : once it was famous for all manner of Luxury -, now it want no thing thereto, but Art, and Apist govtrnment :Here we hyreda Boat for Grao Cairo^ 360, miles off: In fivcdayes we arrived, through against the streame,& about the highest of the Inufidation ; for the North ivejh winde helpt us well : All that long way , wee icarce passed foure miles, but wee found a pretty Towne upon the banks , likely one of each side, op pofitej which if 7«ri//A they were high built, of bricke or other firme stone,but MArahijh, arid Egypt '.,\ ■ tfdit.

./Cioogic

A Vbyagc into the LfT>ant. 17

«4«, the houses were most of mud, just in forme of Bee-hives : The Nile at the highcst is ordinary necrc a mile, and a quarter over, Ibraecimes making a great plafh of profitable ground; much benefit of the o verslow is made by ditches , and Gardens, watrcd with v^heeles drawne by oxest .- as farre as the river waters, isablacke mould fofruitfuU, as they doc but throw in the feed, and have foure rich harvefts, in Icfle then foure moneths : most part of the Banks, jsfetwith daimie^tfgdrC-ww, fUxe, and Hiee .• In the way, the winde failing, our Water-mcn drawing the Boat with ropes from Iand,there came sixe of the wild ArahsjRvG on Horfebackey one a foot j each with aLaitftee, which they can ufe in hand, or dart, very dcxtrouflys our Boat-men rogues of the fame race, flood still, that they might take the ropes, whereat the lofiizary, a ftout,and honest Turke difchargcd his ffarquehze at the Horfemen , who wheeling about, came fpecdilyagaine, whrrefindingtwoof us with Piftols,guarding the ropes, and awing our Boatmen, they dutst not come on ; nor were ihcy fuddcn in flight, but that the lanizsry let flee once more, and as seemed to us, tufted through one o-ithtixTurhams-^ then away they ran :

Finally we arrived at that part of Grrfs Cij(r# called 5»/dMfl, where weegoc direfli on to the Palace of a Vemtian Gentleman the lltujlrif. fim$ Siguier Santo Seghezzi^ whose noble way of li ving gives reputation to his Counrrcy, & protedlion to all travellers in those parts •• here tny late compa nions flayed but few dayes j for over-come with beat, and spiritcd by devotion, they haftned to returnc by itrufdem :I not lb impatiCDt of the Climate, not

3< 8 A Voyage into the Lerpant.

loving company o^Cbrifiiojis in Turky , and but rea fcMiably afit^^d to reliques, left them, and prefunied to receive a longer entertainment : whereto I found an invirall freely noble of it felfc, and with much re gard to an honourable -recommendation of me Tent by Ihs ExitlUnet the Lord Emkaffador of Hs^md at CMjloHtmofU^Six Corntlim ff Jf^jwho having knoWB my kinfman Sit lames Sleuptt, and some others of our name: was pleafed in mee, to honour their memtry .

Here my abode in a. Family which had there beene refidcnt twentie fiveyeares, informed me of many things, with much certaintic: First,! must remem ber things upon rf«r</constantly renewed in office, as the multitude of the Meskeetoes, that is Chnrehesj and ChapfehRve^ and tbirtie thousandi then the noted streets, foure, and twentie thousand, befidcs petty turnings, anddivifions; some of those streets I have found two miles in length , some not a quarter fb long .• every one of them is lockt ap in the nighr, with a doore at each end , and guarded by a Musket tkr, whereby firtt rohbems, tumttlts, and other difer </»■/ are prevented.

Without the Citie, toward the mlderwjfe^ to stop {udden incurfions of the Arshs from abroad, there Watcb on Horfe-backe foure Smmks^ with ^ch of them a thousand Horfemo) : Thus is thi$ Citic every night iQ the yeare, guarded with eight, aodcwentic tbotifand men.

Thcfer;m-4vf«fffprGportious,3rgucdsucha5«e ofthe maine ^(10^7, asraademc desireati entire vim rfiereof i which I got kl fcvwall places, but best of aH from The top of the c,^/*, which is ioimded

upoa

riosxabyCiOOgIc

upon a rocky f/ffs?, on theEafi sideof theCitie: it is not quite decayed, nor diligently kept; but held rather as the Bajhaes Palace, then a Fortrejfe . nor did ' Idifcerne any Arti/lery thaein : it was built by the old SeUans, and their OH^malukes, and that in such a forty as tcftifics their government tohavebcenccj' rarwfti,md{iately: thereyet remainein otw arched place, fortie pillars of ?«/'/'*/>)' as biggc as thosetwo of Saint (.Markts at Fenize : at the foot of this hill is aplacc, somehalfeamik'long, where ihcy exemfe their great fffirfu $ hard by flands ahttle Houfe, and Garden all under theC^/« view, therein the Ea fhaes of Ora» Cmro , when depofcd art kept, until! they are either f referred^ or jlrMgled:

So Potmt is that(?//« efttcmed, and fofull ot State secrets, as may not be left unafJtjrcd , but say Sawfa£iita , or Death .• beyond this CajOe, lyes the Plaine fandy dc iarCjWhichencompartes the E^Ji, Nerth, arui Nort6 tveifoithe Cttie: fr<Mn the CaJUct to the AV/c fbme three miles through old Cairo, extends an aqaedudi farrc taortfiMelyj and v^e, thencither that of Cert fiantiuBpU, or the other, at Rome :

The Nile runnes along the S$uth of the Towne to the Weft ; making atits first arrival!, a daintic little iU»d^ where a piongst many fine buildings, standthe Nilfeegfe: which is a little C<t)?/c, wherein is /ec a pillar, with fcverali aotcs declaring the imndatm all over Egjp, according to each degree, which rhe water reaches upon the pitlcr *, Then they fore-foe the future yearcs eacresfe^ and rate proviflon accordingly.

The day whco the floud begins, is constantly the

Summer Stlftiecy the increale is ufnally bctwccne

F fburc-

Hosicdb/Goot^lc

40 A Voyage into the Levant*

sonrcfcorc, and a huiidrcd dayes : then suddenlyic abates, and by the end of Novem^er^is within its nar ro weft Banks, about a quarter of a mile broad ; The cause of this admirable imadntion, 1 am not credu lous enough toundcrstand j The whole circuitof the Citie Teemed to me betweene five,and thirtie,or forty w//« . a Fenetian who was with me , affirmed it to Wmuchmore, he proportioned /w/aw measure, I £ffgli/h .• This large compasse helps other ctmur reacia to juRtRe the TurkiJ]} reports, how that after Selim his first entry of the ■7j>jpw,he spent ^.dayes in Combate before he paflcd quite thorow :Thofe Re lations which reftraine Cain, intend but of one prin cipal! part thereof namedfi/M^iyK from the Frf»We« habitation therein, according to which divifion, that Burghis but one of five principalljbefidc tcn,or eleven more of Icffe name, and alljoyned asLonc^mt and Wefiminfter'.

This Citie is built after the Egyptian manner, &ig6, and of large ruffe stone, part of Brich, xhe streets narrorv : it hath not beene yet above an hundred yeares, in the Tsr-tw porteflion, wheretorc the old buildings remainc j but as they decay, the new begin to be after the Turkish manner, poore, l$m much of mud, and iimher .- Yet of the modtrm Fa briekes^ musti except divers new PalUees, which I there have seene, both ofTurkes, and such Egyptians^ asmostcngage against their owne Couatrey , Andso flourifli in its o^prepon ;I have oft gone to view them, and their «»(ifr«ifflwM/j,fomctimes attending the liluHripmo with whom Hived, otherwhilcs ac companied with some of his Gentlemen : The Faitues I found vapttSc hi^hfXio state or flourifh outwardly :

the.

./Cioogic

thcfirst Court Spacieus, fetwithfairc trees foryWi?, where were fevcrall he*fis,^Td birds rare,and wondcr fullevenin those parts; the inner Court joyned to delicious Gardens watered with ffu/ftaifies , and rive, iets i beside the infinite varietie offtrangc pUnts^xheic wanted no fliade, from trees ofCafia, Ormges^ Le ?»ons,Figso{ Phari>4e^Tamarmds,Palmei,sad others j amongftwhich paffc very frequent C<iwc/wffj :The entry into the house, and aU the roomes throughout are paved with many severall coloured Mar6les, put into fine figures, so hkewife are the n>a//ej, but in Me faike of a leffc cut : The Roofc layed with t'hwart beames, a foot,and halfc diftant,all carved,great, and double^/// :

The windmes with grates of Iran, few with Gi'ajfe,iis not dcfiring to kef pe out the mndj and toavoyd ihc glimmering of the Sunne, which in thofc hot countryes, G/^/^e would breake with too much rf42;f//a|-upontheeye.Thcflooreis made with fbme tkvatioas a foot high, where the y fit to eate , and . dri/ike-y those are covered with riti Tafejlrj-^ the Iower/'4VfH*f« is to walkc upon, wherein the chiefc dining Chamber y according to the cdpacitie of the roome, is made one or more tichly gilt fm^taiws ia the upper end of the Chamber,which through fccrec i'//«,supplyesinthemiddIcof the roome, a dainty Foi/e„ cither round, fmi re fquarc, triangular, or of 0 ther figure, as the place requires j ufuajly twentieor twentiefoureyardsabout,3nd almosttwo indepth: ib neatly kept ; the water foclcare, as makes appa rent the exquifite Mtfaik a; the bottome j herein are preserveda kindeof fifho'ftwoor three foot long, liVeS4r^eiif, which have oft taken bread out of my F 2 hand,

41 A Voyage into the Levant.

baad, fucking it from my Angers, at top of the wa ter ; But tha which to mee fceraed more Magnificent then all this, was my emertainmeHt : entring oncof cfaefeRoomes, Ifatvatthe upper end, amoiigst o dicrs fitrii^ croffc-l^g'd the Ltrdohht /•/<«, who bcckoiHng to me lo come, I first put offmy Shoots as the re^ had done; then bowiag ofrca, with my band upoti my breafi, came neere, where he making mc & downe^there attended ten or twelve handsome young fdg« all chd'm Samlet , with crooked 2)-^*. girsj and £i7mit<«'/ richly gilt : foureof them came with a fhcccc of Tdffatj , and covered mc i aoother held a golden Inctnfc with rich ferfume^ wherewith being a littleyni#i'f^they tooke all away ; next came two with fwect wmr^Tad kJprinkUdvac : after that> one brought a Fwfr/«w dilh of C4«;>i^, which when Ihaddranke, anotherserved up a draught of excel lent Sherbet :

Tbca Iwrgan discourse , which paflfed by imtrfreter, by reason of my i^nordnce in the Ar^ ^tfj^^thetefpokcn: In their queflions, andreplyes, I noted the EgypttMs to have a touch of the Merchmt, or /w, with a spirit not so SouUier-likCj and open, as the Turkes j but more difcemiog , and pertinem : in fotnercnaoce part of the house, they have their ftable oiH»rfes, hchforjh^e, asthey say,arcnot in the world, and I eafily beleeve it, bat umfefuil in other CfUMtryes^ by reason of their tender im/es never used toaay ground but Sa»ti;They have one fort of a fuuliar race,not a jot outwardly diflferenc from other fitrfes, nor alwayes the kandsomeH; but they are rare; andiniuch esteeme, as there is an offiferap pointcd CO fee the Jc/owhen any of (bat tacc is J^nled

./Cioogic

to Regifier it, with the colour ^ and to take teftimeny of the right brood i oneofthese at three yeares old, is trdinmly fold for a ttsufrndfeeces of eight, some times more : the reason is because they will runne, yj'ixh&oieittmgQx drmkwgonc)ot^ foure dayes, and nights together; which fomc Egypians wound a bout the body, andhelpt withUtle medte, andlesse /(ly^, are able to ride i this is of infinite c$nf<quemt upon sudden dijpatches^to paiTc the wildcrnefle,wherc neitherii'4r«r, nor gra^e is found: from these per haps grew the Fable of those Pardg-Camelif or Dr« mtdaryes j for feldomc does any raritie of Nature, efcape the fal>»Ufa attaqttes oi fancy :

There are ma ny spacious places in the Citie, which in the Rivers over-slow, are daintie Pooles called Byrkhm, and of great rcfrefliraent , asalso the CdhU ^ which is a Ghannell cut through part of the Cixie , from the NilCf into a Plaine on the Ntrth, where it makes a fruitful! plalh of at least ten, or twclue mile com< passejaflbrdingaIfomany«W<?i tothcCw-dfewj in tiietcByrkftaeijandCai&is, towards evening, are ma ny hundreds waOiing themselves,in the meane while divers passe up, and down with rtz-w, & RoguyFidUt^ in Boats, fiillof/'nw/f, Sherbett, andgood hmque tingftnffe to fell j after the Rivers faIl,thofc places are greenc fora while, then burntofandrNotwithstand ing the excclfive compasse of this citie^it is populous beyond aIl^«^0rfM» ; for as we rid up, anddowne, the principall Streets wcreso tkrmg'd^Nixh people, astheMaftersof our K-^£es, went alwayes before,, ftovit^, and cryiog sdahttrack^ that is, make roome -; such infinite fwaroKs of -^'■-•^J, and litdia»s fiockc to E 3, the

44 A Voyage into the Leloani,

thepIemiCjandpleastircsofGrrfflC^/M; foas I there heard from divers honourablcpcr(ons,thar not long since, they had a plague, which in one ycarc fwept a way eighteene hundred thoufmd^ md$dde , yet Within Ic(fethen fiveyearesaher, itiere was more throng of people, then ever they had knowne: All difeafes there are rifer in Wintcrsefpecially '^tfUgue^ which aithe Summer Solfiice suddenly cc3i{z%.

When the mndeCiKS South ward^ ( whethericbee ihe Spices oi Ethiopia, or nor, isuncertainc, ) icisso odoriferous as auySpampi GlovCjand so hot,as when itheldlong, it so corrupted my y?fl»di:*?, astillthe winde changed, no meate went through me, fomc times, nineor ten dayes together: on the South-end ohhcCitie, isyetremaining the round Tiei^fr, where in Pharafies daughter lived, when fiiee found Oifefes in the River, which runncs not above a Bowes (hoot off": hard by are Tofephs seven Granaries , or rather fomc o( their ruified walJes lefr, and foure of them so rcpairedjas serve to kcepe the pnhlique corne;Three orfoure miles out of To wne Ngrthrvard, isa place called LM4t€rea^ with zTreeoiPhamees Fi^s^ un der which Fame goes, ihut the FirgiiveUtfary rcfted with Chrifi in her lappe, and warned him in a well thereby, whcnthe feareof ffcro^^madcherflyc into Egypt: there is in memory thereof, aCA^^/'f/Zbuilc ot no long time j me thoughts the Tree seemed the oidtst in the Garden , and so most probably chofe for the Story :

I asked my Imizary how long thofc kindc o( Fig-necs uled to last 5 hce told me halfc an hun drcs3ycares, or there abour: yet I noted that if this trcelhouldfaile, ncvcrthdcfle that place hath many

others

./Cioogic

others of the fame kinde, ready to take the refutation upon them.- many rarities of living creatures I law mGran Cairo : but the moQ. ingenieut wasancst of {Q\xxc-kq^%'d Serpents, oftwofooc long, blacke, and ugly, kept by a frenchman, who when he came to handle them, they would not endure him, but ranne, and hid in their hole ; then would hee take his Cit~ term , and play upon it ; they hearing the Mufique, came all crawling to his feet.and began to climbe up him, till he gave over playing, then away they ran : Nor-isthis ftrangcrin JV4f»M, to ieefach creatures delight inyfl«fl(/fdelightfi3lUo us , then co fee them relijb such meats , as reiifli with us : the me argues a eonformitie co our comptjitien in one oioutsenses ; the other in another.

Twelve miles Somh-mst of the CH'te, on the other side of the River^ stand the three oldcst, and yet most entire Pyramides : Thelargeftlcntred iato,downe3 defceatt some thirties paces, then creeping through a pafTage alinoll choakcd upvvithfand, wee found a darkeafcent through a patTage betwecnc great May hU stones, without stayrcs, only little footing cut on each sides here wepast with every one a Candle m one hand, and a PtHollm theothcr,for feare of rogues, who often rnurther, and rifle inthofc Cavernesi I found two largc,fquarc Chambers in themiddle;thfl oneemptie, the other had in the midst, aSepidturc open, andemptie, about a yard, and anhaUehighi as much wide, and within not above two yards long: the Stone seemes a kinde of red Pdrphyrie, butisnor^ for it founds better then a Bell : it is sixt in the foun-t d^cion, nor can ever be borne away,as too biggefor -

the:

thcpaffagc: This being the anclcnted Mommtnt in the world, encouraged me against the opinitMi of our decay inftamrefromour/iw/ir^fw : Thc/ww pretend thofcthree Pyramtdes to have bcene built by fhartuh, who drowned in the Red Sea : the little one for an oncly Daughter of his, the greater for his Wife: bur the faircst intended for ff/w/tf^(f, raiftof his ^7, loft in the 5m: Ifufpeded i\xtmtQaffe6iz glory in the renowne of their Ettemj : for Herodotut much more i«rAMr/g'«i,fathersthefA/f/ir upon Ci6(ij^x, nor is there any Brkke^ whereof Bhm-*ot$ buildings coniifted.

The forme is ^«s/r«^«/4r,le{rcning by equal! de grees, from almost a quartet of a mile each flat at the bottome,unto a fquare at the top,Iittle more theo three yards angular : the ftwies are cxceffivc great ; asd as bigge above as beneath: all of anevenfoure fquare : that which made the building cuiie, and held it so ioi^ together, is the p^ure of the stones, not Jaid in an even flat upon one another, as in other /« bricks ; but begun at the Ba^s upon firme Rtcie^ with the first rowe of stones laid flopeling,thcJr our. side a foote higher then the inside : which continues the faiae/o^«to the very top, and makes the whole building fct inward, andso without mortar, faftea ofitfelst: each upper fi;oDe rctyres feme halfc a foot ihorc of that whereon it Jyes ; this Qiarpens the bullce by just degrees upward, and makes the out ward ^/^atf very eafie: but in a ^Muvn^ where there were any rainc, it would fettle the water, and decay the building.

Thcrcuc about finteene or eighteeae other fyr*. mideSf

./Cioogic

mjddt cxtendii^ South-ward, a matter of twelue or fourteenc miles: they are said to be oi Kmgs farre leffe ancient then this , and yet though of the fame ftonc, ruined extreamely ; only wantit^ thatpofturc o( thestones:

This wondcrfiilli'7r4»/^tf is recorded to hare beenc twcntie yeares a building , with three hundred thoufimd men and more, in continuali em ployment, which ifthe Aone came from the RedSe*, is very credible j but perhaps part was cut from those rocks under the fand hard by where it stands : with in two Bowes (boot hereof, is a So^h ofiome fortie yards circumference , and twelue or fourteene high, cut into the forme of a m4»s hedd^ perhaps MemntKSf famousfbrits foundingac the Sun-rife; thcEgyfti Am, and lewei with us, told us ic gave OrMcles of old, and alsothat it was hollow atthc top; wherein they bad feenc fomc enter, and come out at the Pjramide : then I soonc believed the Oracle ; and cftecme all the rest to have beenc such, rather then either hyva^or, though not impoflible ; or Demoniacke , which re quire too much eredulitiey forme:

All that part of thePlaine, forbetweene twentie or thirtie miles in length, and little lesse in breadth, hath ever beene the place oi Sepulture , for thofc three Cities where now is Gran Cairo - that is Babylon, ( not that of Perjia,) ijUemphUy and Cairo : the Stmther part belonged to Hempik , which was the ancientest , and flood most part on that side o{ Nile^ thofc bodies are the best Mummy, md were buryed before the ifratlites depar ture i one of which Jtfftf/Mrw being opened , Iwcrtt downe, tyed by a cord, dcfcendir^ as into a well, ten or twelue fathom, leaving a lartizio'y, and two of our G company,

Hosicdb/Goot^lc

compaBy, at the top, to awe the t_^rti^f, who often leave Strangers within, and rctarne when they are ftarvedjto lifle thchi ; the place so low as I was f'aine to creeps, andallstillof adry fand where moifture never comesj that prefcrves the bodies, as much as the tmhdmmgy Infomuch as I have fecnesomeof the Limen,}\oi touched by the embahtmg,. to remainc perfci^ white, and found; so many thottfand yesres, will things endure, whenuntouchtbymoifture, the fffk cmfe 0f futrifti^ion :

The bodies lye, most of them in xk\tfmd, forae in an open rtone, with an hol low hewed therein j they are not beyond our ordi nary p-opertiim j in the pitch of the brcast , is fet 3 little Idaflf the head of humane fhape, with a prop un der the chin ; they are as bigge as ones middle fin ger, with//|^r.?^///'^(r/&jonihebackei and made of stone, or rather baJced mtrtar ; their being among the Dead,madc me suppose them pieces Ktligism ; which with their old Hiereglyf hicks , in vatne I fearcht to in terpret.

Above all the Antiquities of ^g^^py \ fought to un* derstand , that admirable Table of Jfis , not mentio ned in Plutarch , and Jlenderly unfolded by Pigmrin, but complcatly exprcst in the antique Egyptian Mo* nument of £r4^,Iately Printed in lt4ly .- it is thought under the Ceremomes of Ifii and Ofirit , to containc that three-fold wifdome of the old Egj^im Kings, and Priefis .- the one about the Nature of their Ntle, zndSoyU; the other concerning the Peltcie of their State :. in the third was vaylcd the most mpertant pieces oftheir Phihfophy.

To get information hereof , I followed the old txamfkSf

./Cioogic

exAmflesy first used by Herodottu,zhzR by lulim Csfar^ and after hy Germanicm-y which was to enquire of Priefis, who (if any ) were like to know somewhat in their owne4«/;^«rtKj.- I was htlptby mlnterpre ter, to the speech of three Egyptian Priefts^ but found them utterly ignorant of all things not CMahotnetan.' Korean I wonders for in the courfc of vid/itude, the Egyptian fuperflitien as the mciemcfi in the world, is lively to be the most cUmc lofl . and all Suferfittt *a/, being in f^fi? but ya^//«^j, have che/*tff of iuch tricks, that is, while new to headmired, but in time to grow ridicuUus to such as difcerne their knavery, and ftale to those who doe not; thercupcm the Priefit, like other TmpaFierSj when their devices began to cake hut coldly , changed them;

This caufcd among the Heathen new l>s£trmes , and Ceremomes Ecclefiafiiquc in fcvcrali ages-, seldome all at a clap , but by de grees as occafiDn,and the Peoples gust required - nof ever happens a more sudden occasion of Jnmvathn herein, ihenthatofconqucst j therefore whariocver little memory of eld Ceremomes , might havebeene left in Egypt , hath utterly pcrifiied in their frcquenc fipprejfions^ efpeciallyinthofctwooflateagesi this of the Turkes ; and the former of the Circafia/t ono' malukes', which befidc the change of Cff-^wtfajr, have corrupted ail the ingenious /4»()'*of that iVif/sa into igmrMce, and mdtce :

Thus is sayled that fuceelfion of knowledge , which by word of mouth ufcth to be delivered from one generation, to anothernor is there any reparation made by way oi Bookes: The maine reasons why the mkedCMyif'ielogicaSpattof the HQithca Seligiofis t was not cxprcst in writing, G 2 were

JO A Voyage auto the Lerant.

were two : First, it would have expofcd them to the ex^i^iomoivavof', whereby the feveran/4»//«,aad interejjes of men, cither out o^spinion, ordefignc, would have ratftd pernicious Hertfies, asappearcs in the Akorm and Tshmd: therefore Numa PampUtUt having writ S«irj of that kinde, causedthemto be burycd with him ; and when ( many ages after) they hapned tobe found , the Frxtor protcfted to the St' nutetthix: they would dcftroy the Religion, if publifli cdj whereupon they were burnt:

The other reafoir was , becaust: the kt^imtionsoi their Rtiigions were addtest , not to the vfist , who are so few, as not; to be reckoned of, but co the ws/f;/»^i;, which arepaflio natCj not;W/«(7w •• wherefore they were not put in to a rafhsaS way of discourse , which had served them up to the ttnderBandmg ; but rather a^d in iiich manner , as might moove the Senfes , thereby raiiing such pafHons as were to the advantage of their X-eli^hm^ Heaccaaa&xhc perfumes ^ and daintie Ji/» J%jw in their Temples ^ the fantafiique veftment or their Priefii ; their (yemnc SaerifetSt FiilurtSt St* tins, and SrHtffiem • which in xk\k fuperfi$tia)s,'Vitxt altt-ed, with contempt of the former j yet ia th« maine point they all agreed^ that was toammufe, andenrcrrainethe im^oative partof themindCjbe-- , fooling xhtlnttlUBti^-y so the Ceremmies renewed; not alwayes utterly different, northci^reiej butfol \ovmgt\KSUt€reasonfj ^nd pepuUr Gufi: )ust like the weeds of eachycare,not ever of the fcwracr kinde, but according to the SvjU^ zn^Seafm:

Now for these/d/?«w, those fcnfiblc ftUmmtits wcreexcellently fitted : Y« bccause there were fomcdi&eming

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

SwUs-^ to engage them they were admitted to the in/ide of their d^cts , and called S4cris mitiati, and ib were either taken wirh zhcmyjiery, or at least, with thefuvour tothemselves, and profit of the £efuii %«f , the latter fort in love connived i the others were conjured, as they did dread the revenge of the Go<^j^cver to divulge those myjikallfeerets i w'*" also was, bccausethey wereeitherfr«/ji^, ^>w/««, and^^ar rid, (for with such humors chey complyed, as well as with the vertuous ) or that they contained some pro found reach oi State, or Philofafbj beyond vulgar ca pacitiejW**" adores eafily,but pierces not; and that ere dulous re'i'fK««,is much advanced by a foleranecon cealemenc - Cnftdint hHm^itngmn , libemm obfiura creduntm :

Therefore it is not hjfocrifie, but a ncccf fary regard to the vaine nature of man, which forces most Relighns to muffle toward the vulgar, concea ling some of their iniidc, either in fiyeroglif hicks, -F* hles f Tyfes , ParahUs,, qi Scheie diftinSiens , and strange imgHAgt j all which doe cquaUy obfcurc to^ popular capacitic, and are chofen according to the Cm«« of the Age,or Dodrine:

Hereby were all fort of wits entertained with *a reverent Satisfa^ioa-^ the deeper in the fertf^i/i x\t (hallow in the yS^j?.- Thus, is all light of £^» old devotion, almost quite ex tinct NiJW as for the lafiict , and Gavernmeati it is^ perst^ly Tm'kifhy and therefore not to be fet downc ^art ; only it exceeds all other parts of Turky for rigour f and extortion ; the realcra is becaufc the Turkt Well kaowcs the Egyptian nature, above all ofher Na '«»j j to be WrcMatf, treaeifertWj and tfemtff'ite, and. theiefore dangerous, not fit for Armes, or my other G, 3 trufts,

trust ; nor capable of being ruled by a fwect hand : Wherefore among them, are more frcqucnr, arid horrid exictttiens , theniti the rest ofTtfr;^^, asEmpd iiff^,Gaufi£htKg,Flayif)g dlive^Cuni/Jgoffby the Waftc with a redhtf Iron, Ojntwg with Honey in the Sunne, hmgiag by the ^aoK^fUming in burning Lime,a.ad the like: inmytvvo monethsstay, I favv divers fearefull examples; efpecially two; one at GranCairo, of a Fellow, who in malice fired his neighbours Houfe: He was ExR Flayed ^Uive, with such Art, as he was more then three houres a dying j then washis-5*/>* fluffed with Cf>afe, and borne ftradliiig upon an J^e up and downc the Towne.

The other wasof three ^r4^j, who robbed in the wildernefle betweene RojfettQ and Alexandria ; they were taken at a place called Maidyah, where at my rc turne I saw execution done in this manner : They were laid naked upon the ground , rheir face downe ward , their hands and legs tycd abroad to ftakes 5 then came the Hangman, who putting their ownc hdfe-fika in at the Fundament did wiih a Beetle, drive them up leifurcly, till they came out at the Heitdtox shoulder - two ot them dyed suddenly , but the third whom the Pike had. not toucht neither in the 6f4r,nor haine, would have lived longer, had not the standers by daflit out his hainesi then were they tyed upright, to ftakes driven in the high way, andfolest:

Now the TwM^tobreakethcspirits of this People the more, opprefles them with a heavier povcrtie , then any of his other Mahsmetan Subjeds; and therefore if there be one riz.ier , more ravenous then other, he fends him thither , and connives at all . " his

./Cioogic

his cxcortionSj though afterwards, according to the Turkijb Filicy, he knowes hew to Iquetze him into the treaftryj so fatisfying the People, ihc Prince drcyncsthcra, and they difccrnc him r,o oihcrwifc, then as xh^ix revenger.

This Fizier Bajhof who now governes carried with him from CenJlMtimple , a Ship laded with Time at his arrivall , hee tookc a CataUgue of all wealthy Persons j then to every man excepting such as were ingaged in favour of the State , hee lent a piece of T«»e, more or lesse, according to thcabilitie of thePerson, and demanded of each, foexceffive a price, as generally it was not worththe lift part, of what they paid:

It is the custome of the ottoman Crownc, to preletve the old Liberties, to all GoLin tryes who come in voluntary ; wliich in s^iff, and o ther lUads of the Arches , it hath for examples fake, maintained very honourably , till just causewasto the contrary : but those whom they take by con qucst, they u(c as a booty , without pretending any hurnanitie , more then what is for the profit of the Conquerour; which most Conqucrours doe inef feifl, although not being foabsolute as the GrditSig^ itior , they are faignc to give the world more faiisfa dion in the poore counterfeits of lafiice, Zeale^ Cle^ »W(7, P»i/i^«-^wc/, and the like : the F.gjftians \x\ derjtheir Circ4/fi4st Mamakkes, were defended against Sulim Selim,\i\i^ a flocke of fbcepe kept by fierce Ma iftives, from the Woolfe ; wherefore his bloody vi •Sory made him rage the more j so that aftec he had: slaine all the Circafians, and topt the rest, he was not Ukci'Air-wi&concenc with the fist part , but wokeall,,

leaving;

54 A Voyage into the L^ant^

leaving no man owner of a toot of ground ^ and di vided the Land into Farmes ; the Icast Farmc paycs osepurfc, sometwo or three according to its pro portion i each purfe is eight hundred pccces of eight : the fixi rent the Bajhde mud constantly make good to the Crmnt ; he every yeare places , or difplaces the Farmers , as they outvy one another in gift to him : • the fet Rent never alters and is eightcene hundred thousand Zeccheens ycarely j a Zeccbeene T$trki(h I va lue nine {billings fterlio.

This is proportioned into three equall portions; one is fet out to flirnifh the annuall Pilgrimage ta cJWcffirfi the second paycs the S^wW/fry, with all o ther Offices , and Services pubUquc for tliac Kiag dom;the last third goes clearc into the C^ff^s^.theie Farmes are most in the hands of E^ftians j beside which, therewantnQt7/»-irr«,that is /"flMifjgivfn to Turkish Horfemcn with obligation of Service in Warre,and to awe both neighboursjand fubjc^s.

When Selim had Conquered this Kingdorae , he boafted bee had taken a Farmc to feed his ji^emo gloMs : wherein his judgement was the fame with the Remans , who eilecmcd it the Grojtary of their RefuyUfte i wherefore the Turke at this day , em ployes the £^/W4w, rather that way, then to armcs; for he hath of them inrolcd Swldiers , but fourteene thousand, andwheoany of thofcdye, hecontinues the pay to his Wife , and Children: whereby with out fcandall, the Nation is made effeminate, and dif 40itied-j which is the maxime he holds upon that &lfe, and dangerous people: Hce used till within this fif teenc, ortweatieyeares, to make (as in his other

./Cioogic

kingdomcs,) most of their lud^es of the Nati-ves, but they according to that Cfimatc, were found damna bly corrupt , and dif-affedionate to the Ttirki/b a£. faircs ; wherefore now having made sure of that Countrey , hee hath without any further rcfpetst of them, made a Decree , that none (hall be capable of ■being a Judge amongst them, but a oaturall borne Turke, whereby the lufticc is excellently leformed ; cfpecially towards Strangers, who before had no Protciiion , befidc povertie, to fave them from falfc witnefle, which (hated thera as a Booty bctweene the Tu^ge, and the accitftrs :

Having thus ztGr*n Cairfst enquired 6i such points, as are peculiar to that King dome, I thought of my departure, which I purposed to dired in fearch of fomc further antiquitie j First, I asked for the famous old Temple of Fulcan^ but could not heare any remainder of it,nQr any acknow ledgement of lupiter Hammon , who gave Oracles in thzWefi q\ Egypt :

Then Idesired to view thcpaf fige ofJtioyfes inco the RetiSea,noi above three dayes offjbut ihtlewei told me that the precife place is not now knowne within leffe then the spaceof adaycs journey along the Shorc5 vvlicrcfore I left that as too uncertaine for any obfcrvation ; and went by Came/l twodayes journey SMth-uJt^ to fee ccrtainc great mines some fifteen miles from the Riverjl had hoped they might have proved the remainder of the Lt^o rinth, or Pyramisies built by the twelue Kings in the LakeofA/^riifj but I rather by the i»///rfw , andTar rets, gueflfed them' to have beenc fjine r^all Palace .* in our going thither , there hapncd a little whirle windc which drave the fand so upon us , as we were H almost

A Voyage intochc Levant,

atmost lofl; j for divers times paffengcrs therewith overwhelmedjinan and be»(t are not found^ till man^ age$aftcf, wheaanother wind discovers them j ocir aaiy remedy Was to corne our Camels buttocks to the wittde, till the place where they stood was become a pit, asdeepeajthey could well goe out off, thenre moving a littk forward, make another stand, till we gi^w againe environed ; in this manner pafllng outati hoiire, till tbd wind ccafed : This fright made us re^ tut-cte necfCT the iV/Vir,where I fa w two CncodjUs run- , ning together, in a muddy plafh, the one about foure fcKK long, the other ootabove two.

At my comming baclce, I began to thinkeof going dowoe to Akxandrid , and from thence by Sea to /tf/^,purpofit^ to returnc home by UmfaUm, which by Land is fifteene dayes journey on this side Gnot Cdiro: Then tooike I my leave of the llluftripmt Signm SmoSo Se^hezzi whose ufage of mec all this while,and now at departure, was so honourable, as might fctve for pattcrne to each noble Spirit.

It being now forward in Ncvemitri with the wa ters abatement began EgjftsS'px'mgy all thebankes fogreeae, fragrant and delicious, as if a new Puradice were up j the River fhmnkc goicrally into little more then a quarter ofam^e btoad; which cauf^one uopkafing {pcflaCle ; that wasof many wild Arsit, (rften tenor tweluetogetherj, fwimming croflfe to rob nUiges^ and Pajfe»gers : they fir ft wrappe ihcir thin bJew Coate about their head,.then tyc their Lance to theirffdci so naked fwimmc over the River, which I had also ftenc at my going up , when the fioud was nigh a mile and quarter ovcr,buc not so frequent ■■, my

two

./Cioogic

two[Mtiiz4ry«s with their Har^ae^ttzet , and I with a Piftoll, awcdthm, that they durst not ^ulc rhe Boat J norwcrctheyablctoufetheLaunce (fwim ming), more then with one hand, and that but wcafee ly : In this fourc dayes passage ro Ii*£etu , I enqm rcdoftlic Dek*j atidthcJtfiife^fcven ftrcamesj the J>elta is Co tiamed, from the forme oS that Lettcr^and is all that part of Egyst , which !yes bctwecne the two branches df Reffetto^ and Damiata ; the fiiftpar ting of which (Ireames is about twenlic miles below Cr^ Cdirff i part of this Dt/td, I had often heard by fomc of the Icarnedct letves, to have bcene the Land of Gtjhen.

Nile bad of old ftavcn streames, Hve naturall,and twocutby labour, toserveonelyinthe overslowe, there now remaine oncly three,onc artificiall, whicfi in the inundatioi, fervcs JlexaodrU : thetwonatu rail ones are that of f/w/»»», now called DMmiatd, and the other of c*»(y«*, now Rojp^tt 5 ■ tbis later is of late, fb choaked, as at the aitraticc into the fta, fliippes are £tigne to unlade, and after a small parage, to ladeagainc, another hath quite furred np within lesse then thirty ycares whereof there are three caufcs doubted J first the gravcll borne downe In the 'floud, for then the water is as gravelly as a pudle in the high way ;

Secondly the fand blownc therein, by the wiude from thebankes; ifitbceitherof thcfc, it may ^er thecouric of the river, as in part it hath done formerly, which might be the mine of the Gttyes, but not of thekingdome: the third rea son, is somedefcd:, or diverfion from above to w»ds the fountainejthat would-be the deftrudion of H a all;

Hosicdb/GoOt^Ic

jS A Voyage into the Levant.

all} butis not generally believed ; yet mee chmkes, might well be furpetfled, bcause though fodiainy Areamcs are stopc , the red run not higher then be fore j whieh they say the many ditches made of late ages,are thccause off: The water taftes just like new milke, but somewhat nitrous, and if dranke as in the river, troubled, it caufcs in strangers, a flux j which to prevent, they take a gallon, or more, of that wa ter, and it they have not time to let it fettle, they cast therein three or fourebruifed^/wWji theyia leik then an hourc clarifie it like Chrijiaii; whictt cfifedl tbey have upon no other water, and thereby ftew'd theperfeSfim of that.

At last arrived at Rojfette ^ and so by ;i/«/(f passed to AUxmdrid, I pprpo(ed from thence to rake a voy age for /o/'/'^s which passage, I rather chore,then the other of DamUtk , much neerer , but more infcfted with Bjrdts :

Here one day, I went to view the Pore ofGnlljes, but was severely prohibited : this fceming contrary to the usuallfrecdonK of Tffri^, made me fufpe^ some notable defc<a in that harbour, which might hereafter, be made ufc off j whereupon I went the next d4y fectetly, unto a high decayed pcece of a Tf/rretf upon the wall over that Haven, t* take a con fidcrate view thereof: my accefle wasefpyed, and dog'd , by an Egyptian , one as I thinke, of the Gar rifoH hard by , whose vkUitce produced an accident that made me forget all my other (^£/?^«£J,and flye for fafetie of my life, unto a little French Barke, which I knewwasihatday,todepartfor5/c(^.- We hadnot sayled above five , or sixe leagues, but we saw a Spe ^rff/cof aftraine beyond the Spirit ofthcfc times:

it was thus : a Maltefe gave chacc to a Crceke Vellell, in fearch of 7urkes , or Turkish goods s thcGnekt Jaded with Turkrfh goods, made up to us, who carry ing no Flag, he judged Turkes ■ but when at hand, we appeared C&rijlians , and from us no heipe to be had. He yielded : upon the Veflell,were tbure Turks; three fuiJcrcd themselves to be taken ptisoncrs ; the fourth ( wee all looking on ) ran up to the Sterne, where ta king a pccce of cord, he tyed his fcet,and one of his hands together } thenthrew himfelfc head-long into the Sea 5 ist which refolurc end, he ftewed by what a fliort passage, many a yeates mifery may be preven ted, where other reasons, or fcarc masked in them, enthrall nor.

Our Barh had twice before bcene taken by the Turkes, and ransomed ; this Voyage met none, nor any notable danger , excepting one ftorrae, wherein we had like to have Split upon the rocks of Ca>Jt^y i Finally, aftertwcluedayes, we came to ^/>''^^ in Sid/y , fiom whence we went to tMepna, and so to FAlerme j whose delicacies, with ray noble entertain ment, in the houfc of a French GemUmait, there Ctw fuHgenerAUiox his Nation, flayed me to take a Icisure abJeview of thzt Kiagdome , whofc Cuftomes, and Government, are so perfei^ly 5'/4»//&, asnecdootto. be ftt downe apart i efpccially, this Met»mallha. ving not undertaken beyond the affaires QfTurky, must not meddle with those of Chriftendome ; onely I may upon this Counrrey, remember an Item given . me by a very understanding Turke j in one part of the Jirch$^eUg9 , our Captalm, who went Admir4llto the whole Armado , caused many of the Gdeom. to be H 3 liRkt

6o A Voyage into the Ltrpant^

Itokt with Cables ; this I knew dangerous among so many lUnds, and ac length we began co fall soule one apon another ; whereupon I asked the Turkt why we rode so linked ^ hereplycd for to be ready all xogt rficr,if wclightuponthc^4if/Ji with that, under colour of magnifyingtbcm , I denredtolcamehow they undcrstood Af i/f4 , andfotoldhim I wondred they would suffer such a fpoc of earth to trouble rhenij and not rather destroy ic, when thqr had some Sparctime from greater cnterprizes:

Hanfwcred, that they would no more attempt CKalta, but rather Sicily , which had better landing , and was abler to maintainean Army; and whose People having fuf. fcrcd under the /'rcwf A, and Spamard extremely y and finding no hopes in any other C^ri/lioM Prime, are not much averfe from the Turkijb Government j then ( quoth he") if SicUy were ours , MaIu must come in without blows, as vi&ualled from Sicily, -sad no way able tDfubfist,when we wereon both sides of it : ths discourse I could never efteemc tothcfuIl,tiUI had heeae'va Sicily f and principally once, when 1 heard forac of them not ftickc to say, that the Creekes lived iiappicr under the Twka, then they under the J^*w m-ks : yec I tmist note altb , that of all the Ckrifism States, the Twiware the wprst provided to-dcale with the jy;p4»(//' • for of all others, tiiat most M> fifls on i^ortw/Zij, which would provehard knots to xhtTurke, whose NatiffC and Ordets Military jare not in any one point fomuch.dcfeiSive, .is in that of Sie^e : from Puleritu, I rode to Trosonj, frcra thence I embarqucd for Nafles , whose rarities entertained mefofflcdaycSjthen went I by Rtme ^i^shy FUrence,

and

./Cioogic

and Stlegm, to Fetiicei where I arrived the eleventh moneth after my departure from thence : having in that time, according to the most received divisions of Titrkj y bcene in nine Kingdemes thereof j and paflcd &XS. thousand miles, and upward, moA part by land.

Thus have I set downe such observations, as were ofpassage/tf^di?, and H4tura/Iy borne along, with the places whereon I tookc them; Now follow the more 4bBr4^ and generall concerning the In^itutiom of the whole Empire wherein I take but the accounts of a reckoning made in hast , and therefore fubjed:toihc difadvdHtnge of a hafty view , that is , to over-flip many things, andtofcctiiereftbutya/fr/ffM;^.- ycc usually quicke glances , take in the most eminem pee ces ; araongst which there arefbme like the dye of Scarlet ^ better difccrned by a pafling eye, then a ffxt ; of this nature I esteeme the msrall points of beha viour ; a new Commer apprehends them with a judgeracnc^f/ft, ^ndsincere, which further/iBS/tf*'/ tie corrupts with affe^isn, or hatred , accordii^ as it meets a diJJ/opieit conforme, oxtontrArj :

The most important parts of all States are foure, jrfnwff, Reli gi0f$f l»pice,aad MorallCitftomes ; in treating of thcfc, most men set downe what rhey should be , and ufc to regulate that By their owne fllly edacatien, and recei ved */w«w^iw^tfi^ by /«^//«irf;«, and tmralitifs ima ginary i this I leave to ytppia/v who doating on their phantasJifue CuppohlSy mew their owaecapacitie, or J^focrijie, and no more :I in reraembring ihe Turkish iaftitutioos, will only Regifter what I found them, nor cenfurc them by any rule , but that of more, or \t^t fufficieney X.Q their aymc, which I suppose the EmfiriS:

4i A Voyage into the Levant,

" '^Empires advancement: First,then,I note their Arraes,

because in the fway of , mens afFjires it is fouad"OM nU tjfe GUdiipedijJest* j in that fearc as the strongest of our/'i/So«/,awes all the rest ; Their Inftmtery con iifts of two forts 5 First, such as are levyed upon par ticular C/««i they are more, or Icffe according to eccafien ; the abilitic of the Torvne, and dfftmce from whence fummoncd; many of thena are Christians, and are fcnt forth much better appointed mChther^ then with us: each Tervm in fcverall Cfhars, and their ^rmes fufficient:they are lodged, and cxercifcd with out the C««, almost a moneth, before they begin to Match :

The other parr, and chiefe ftrcngthjis of the lattizM'iest whofc number, at my being in Tttrky, was fourc and fortic thousand, which as it sayles,they ufe to supply upon occasion, butnever exceed } the man ner is to re-inforcethcfc bonds thus; ever now and then, there are sent out officers into divers Provinces, efpecially the JVor;^ifrfl£, who out of a\ the cUriJiim thildren,itom the age often to eightecne, or twcntic, chul!cwithouty?w;or^v«/'f«« , such as theythinke fit,and carry them to CpnftmtimpU y these they call \Jigem9glass \ then after someobservationof their PerJoKs, ihofe of mcst promifing parts , are feletScd for the Grast Signior his StrraglUes ,m\xGt that of Cm fia/ftiittple, orhisotherof L^Wr/W//f , where they are taught to write and reade ; to understand j*r** tifkct to ufc their Bow , with other weapons: then cull they out the choyfefi Spaykes ; who as their ca pacities grow approved , are inftruiled in Sme at faires, and by degrees, taken into highcst prefer ments} tlKfcAKcalkd Ichglam: thewor/^,andof

least

Icast qualitie , are affigned co the drudgery of the hmjholdy to the Gardens and other bafe ^cesy fbmc are made OHmMerst and GAleots ; the generall forr, Dcithcrrare, norcoDtemptiblcarebythe^^tfof the laaizdries diftributed abioad, where without charge to the Priftctt they earne their living by hard labour, till the age of two and twentic ; then so inured to en durance befitting a Seuldier they are brought backe, taught their Armes,and prepared for Service ;

Thefe are enrolled IdnixM'its : This choice,aod edmAti$n of fersons,z^i to each ust, must needs make it excellent ly performed, as being more naturall then the courlc of Chrifiendtme , where Primes put Armes into the hands ofmen neither by j^/r//, oxeduc4U»n, martUU^ and entrust their chiefe employments^ with refpc^s oHirth, riches, oxfriends^ which to the fcrvicein tcndcd, are qu4lities not so proper, as those fersonall dilitieSyVihkh prevaile in the Turkish EUititn:

Thefe though the sonnes oichrijiims, hate thatname above all others and are found, (as I have fecnesomeof them ) without any nsturall affeWun to their Parents, as it were transplanted , acknowledging themselves the creatures of the ottomM Family^ (9 much ate the present eitgj^emems of life too strong for all for mertycsof ^/»m/.* their pay is perpetuall , both in Pe4£etV\dWm-e -^ moreorle0*e, according to /tfr/a Mi^ merit; which excites to notable ^'fn^fj; other prefermcBt they receive none unlesse it be a Timtrre ; for if any of them should be in honour , be might be teo much regarded by his fcUowes, whom the Prince will not permit to acknowledge any besides himselfe; for which refpcA this Emfer$»r, at JndrinopU, as it I were

^4 A Voyage into the Lcpant.

where in face of the Army,cm.kd a great PcrsonjOnce of this Order, to be ftrangied , and Proclaimed Trai tor, when I was in Hungary -, whereat I heard many of the lanizariis speake infilently in publique, yec dijrfttheydoe»fl»»c«, feeling this /«Ww Spirit, to grcaiffor them.

They ate never cast off; for when oId,or maimed, they are kept in garrison .- This company was held devifedjn imitation of the RemAae PrxtortM Ceherttt "orrathcrof th^tMMctdinian Phalanx, and hath per formed as bravely as either; but isnow, in great part corrupts for contrary to their Primitive ifTflim tioBs, many of them marry y others follow Merchan dize .^ and'whereas heretofore, they were all chofc theibnnes of Chrifiians y whereby that Caufe was kept under, and the Turki(h so much incrcafed , now the Chrtfiiaas are permitted for money , to excufe their children,and the Turkesto prefcrre theirs;Somc hold this an errour a pemitiotis one , as leflfening thac due proportion which should be maintained between theCtntpeffers, andtheCempe/Udi the Twr^w rather thinkcthe Chriftiam not now so fttong , as hereto, fore, and therefore not to need the former dimititttioo, experience made me of this opinion, considering thac it is many yeares fiace most of his cArt/«» Coun tryes were taken in , and how evety age dyes them of a moredeepe LMahometan,thea other ; but Hiould he YfiaTKa.ayChrifiiat>Pr0vi?iceo{ nev/i he would not Spare in this way to exhaust it, till it viexe fufjiciently enervate:

The mortallest «rrfly/«ff of this Order hath hapned of latcycarcsj that is, knowing their owne ftrcngth, and grownc iaucy with famihmtiez.t

Court,

./Cioogic

CfiMrt, they have proceeded to such ittftlenejt as hath flefli'd them inthcbl»ud of their Soveraigtte Sultan ofman ; and in <^ufiafha,xhty have learnt that dam nable Secret of making » and unmaking their King at pleasure; whereby ihz FottndAtian oH ^XMtniWchy, that is, the due awe towards the S/WiE(>j«//, is so ir reparably decayed in tbem as like the loft ftatc of /» fwenae, can ncrcr be restored.

This requires an ere<£iioa of new Bdntis never tain ted, to fupplant thefc lanizmes, who elfe will grow to such a Military Anarchy , as did the Pretoridns of S^mfiatheir Erapircy till they redoccd it to nothing: Wherefore fomc thiDke,that the expedition, wherein the GrmSignior hath now engaged his Perlbn against Perji4,is defigned with a refolucion to fpcnd the lani' zaries very freely.

The Cava/Ury is made up of two forts ; First, of Sfahyglans , to the number of two and thirtie thou fand : these are continually neere the Court : out of them are chofe Troopcs to Guard his Person Royally upon all removes i they used not to goe to Warre, except he went himftlfc, but of late they are often fcnt with the Gran Fizier : the other fort of Sfahyts^ are termed Spahy-Ttmamts , from certaine Timarres, or Fences, given them for terme of life, with obliga tion to serve on Horfebackc, well appointed, whcrc foever they Ihall be fummoned :

This is not much unlike our old tenures of Knight-service, or Efcuage ; but not Hereditary .-. according to the value of the Tem/trrtj iht Timariat is to come in with one, two, three or more Horfes i I have fcene many bring in five or sixe j this reason till I was informed of, I I z wondred

66 A Voyage into the Lrfant.

wondrcdto fcc Ctudiers carry toche Warrcs such fuperfluous retinue j as frequently to have men ri ding after them, some bearing a Cffste, some a FiddU, many nothing: Thcfe Spdhy-Timxrhts besides their fcrvice in Warre, have another ufc no Icffe impor tant , that iSjto awe the Provtmes wherein they live, and caufc them to be well Cultivat • wherefore in all expeditions many are left at home : they are bravely horsed managing their iiwce, and Btm , with much 4exteritie : their number is uncertaine, as ever multi plying , either upon better PofuUthn of old poflcfli ons, or conquest of new ; fobothi*?', and Warn cncrcafc them j nothing but the loflc of a frovimt doth diminifli thera ; for their dtah is but ihe prefer ment of Dcw deservers.

At this rime , the owners of the Timars are about three hundred thoutand , whereto added their com panions » which they are obliged and never feilcto bring in, they make in aII,above seven hundred thou fand; whichnumbcrwastoldmc, with many other of their notes, by some of the Timmtts in the Arrf^^ where though held a Sfj, they fcorncd to affiitS mec, but rather chuflng to glorifie their State in my Rela ti(Xiacbome, informed oie of alt, and much^ainst my will , forced mec in their prefencc to write ic downs ; which ] did in ItdUatt , and in termes so re Qk^vc, as when the Interpreter expounded, they re ceivedne exceeding kindly, msk'mg me eate, drinker and Udgt intheir tents all nigAt :

Bcside the SfshjeSj there ate another fort of Horfemen, whoare Volmtiih ries, ferviog at their owne charge j they are of three forts: Some come in hopes of prefenc *«!';'$ others

to

./Cioogic

A Voy^c into the Lrvam. 6/

to merit a Timari the third in mccre devotion to gaine PdroiJice by dying for the Mahometan caufc.

The first of all others , the bafest, mixt of Twfij, and christians, usually goc before the Army, to Spy, and Pillage J they having rather the Spirits of frw Soaters , then of SouUiters , would never stand one ftroke of an encounter, but that the de^erate bravery of their C6mfmm , does often engage them irrevoea Hy :

The fccond fore are forward enough, cfpccially where the fcrvicc is eminent: The third arethemost refilutc troopcs of the Army ; they come like so ma ny IJ^/i^ytnen vowed forthe/'w^Ajtff; Ror are they tirawDC ever to rcturne home , uniclTe wirh viBorj, some of chem are daily seene fingle to invade a whole SquitJren; others after much afsay of valour open their brcfts, and stand a volley of Mutketsi these men are heavy upon the enemy , for — yineitur kand gratis jugnle qmfrovoau btBem,

This Refplution is not the child of Reason, or Ho nour i but bred by way of Re/i^uo; for Makomet knowing he had not to dealc with a ScheUftiquc and SpecuUuve^tntx^xioi) , but with a people rude , and fenfitall, made not his Paradiec to consist in Viji9/ts,and ' HAilclujahs ; but in delkious /d«, />/</<« GitrdefiSt zndfVewies wich great eyes,who were ever peculiar ly aflbacd in the LtvMtNow to suchas dye in Wars for the MahemttM f(Uth, he prtunifes that their Stules shall suddenly have given them young iufty bodies, and fet in PMradice, eternally to enjoy ihofc fUafuru, notwichstandiog any former y/n/»«, to tbofe who dye other deaths , he alEgnes a Purgatory tedious, and at last not fucb an heighth of fUaptre : It is scarce cre I 3 dible,

SPt

6i A Voyage into the Leipam.

dible, what numbers these hopes bring in ; I have feme troopcs sometimes of above an hundred toge ther i so tfst£i»allm InBrument of State in Saferpti ert, and such decpc Impreffttm does it make, when fir ted to the faptm of the Su^eii ; and that ufefuli in those whom neither reason, nor honour could pof feffe : The chiefe AuxiU»jes of the Turkes , are the Tarurs , who live on this side mount Taurtu ; they are by us called the Fetit Tartars, todiftinguifh them from these others of c^Hem , who have much vaftcr Dominions beyond the mountainc, but thereby of difficult Ctfwwir«,with these parrs of the Wtorld.

The great Tsric hath made frequent affnitie, and league with theseT'rt// Tartars:, and hath entay led the Cromne upon them , in cafe the ottsman line ihould say Ic; notonlybccause whenasmall nation inherits a greater; the lesseris immcrftin theaccefleof the greater ; which under colour of loofing it selfe,makcs an acquist oi ks inheritor; but for other regards pe culiar to that JV4r/w,efpeciaUy for their Seitnation up on the Blaeke Sea,\vi such manner, as they mayatplea sure, make fuddcn Excarfions , to the very point of CeafiantiniypU it selfe ; nor had the Turke any remedy, when abfcnt in Jmfrejfes from home .- wherefore he cafts many tyes upon them , and seldome goes to If rf>-« without feme of their Tree^est which beiide tlieayJe , and reptttaiea they a^od him , are a kinde of hotlage: in this preparation againd Ff/W, there came downe fort(e thaufand of them to the Campe, but were marched forward with the ^rwy , before my arrivall ^ so chat I saw none of them , fave some fcwficke, and «yii/r;f</persons, who seemed more

fallen.

./Cioogic

fitHovfj 3i^ill-favottrder^to^\z then the Turks, not (o vjqW clout hedj nor (ocivill-^ and thofc Titrkes who wilhed me well, forewarned me from ejoing amongst them , telling me their hatred to Chrifiiam was such, as they would goe necre to €dpive,Qt rifle me :When Ieniredthe5i/>f5 ai t\c Empire , the fame of their j4r?»y then meeting for Ftlmd , was ( as fame ufes to be,) excefivct thrcatning no Icflethen seven hundred thousand j but upon necrer accede , it fcarcc held up one hundred and fourcfcore thousand, reckoning in thcTartars.- whereupon I much enquired, why the Tftrki/I) Armiei were not now so numerous as in for mer times: among many anfwers 3 the wifefthicup on three points, first that the enemies now (excepting the PerfiM ) were not Co Potent as heretofore ;

Se condly, experience hzdrmghtihtm, that multitudes ovcr-vaftc are neither capable of erder^ nor provifioHi wherefore to avoyde confufitnyzMftmine, they bring no more into the Field then are neceff'arj: the third was , before their Dominions were inlarged , they thought it better to employ their multitudes in new Conqtteflt, then to leave them idXCyneceptout, and dM. gerom at home j but fincc their inlarged territories, they are difliributed into CoUayes to people , and ma nage them,which thereby will in time,beconic more fofulom , and fotent , then ever :

Thus did none of them acknowledge zny dimmution of people, as is plainly (ijppofed by many , who never viewed their great fwnirmes and t/AJie pUatations : The Turkijb ^r««j,much differ from ours : their Hdnj/tei/ttze like our Caljver; their Scymiur , a crooked fiatBacke Sword i ac Se4 amongst ropes , or on Horfe-backe

against

70 A Voyage into the Ltrpant*

againfl Armour, it excelles a Rafter, bxxi in open fight, is much infcriour,it hath ever beene the Esfierne wea pon, as likewise their/rw Mace, which they ufe both for ftroke, and hurle ; they ate admirable with their Bow and Arrowcs ; there is among other Trophyes^ at the C*fiU-g4te of Sel^ade , ftt up a Hcad-peecei which I hold PetrMell proofe , (hot cleane through both sides, ( and as they say) head and all, with one of their Bo»es ^ the Arrow ( as all theirs are ) like those little red ones which our children ule,I saw yet (lick ing in the Hedd^eeee .- they beare no weapons but in travell j then feme of them feerac like a moving Ar mory :

First,the girdle ftuckc with three or foure Pt ftols y then on each side, a knife as long as mine arme, with another of a foot long, for ordinary ufcs, tuckt to bis Coat: an /^<r^w^*af onhisflitnilder; on his thigha^f]'imf4r; on the one side of xhz Saddle pum meU,zPetr<mell; on the other aftraight Smrd , the blade hollow,Iong, and foure-fquarc ; by that, either a MtxXzi^xeyQtssxHmgarimiMMe, or both, at his backc , hang Bow and Arrowes : when he comes to his Udging, all these with his Bridle full of Braffe gilt Boiles , hee faftcns to ihc tree or vfull where he refts ; after , upon tlM ground fpreads a Blanquer, whereon hee firfl; fuppes, then flceps in bis c/i}/£«, with his Saddle in Head oHpiSm :

Armour I thinke they have not so pleottfull, and compleat as we j yet } know not well,fbi' it was ever packt up on Horfe,oc Wa^on, to three Horieiticn was allowed one Wag gon ; I &w no Mufters ; nor Marches necre aa ene my, and therefore have little experience of their Dif cipUnein that point ;They March in Ranke and File

witi,

./Cioogic

with wonderful! filence, which makes cpmmands re. ceivcd readily : they are alwaycs pcovided of BJs kec , dryed fleOi, and Aore of Rict, wij^aklnde of course Butter, so as in the greacest defans, tbey are in plentic : thus their Armies passe the faady barren Countreyes towards FerJi*yVf.bh Icflc endurance then did the Rtmrnts in small numbers of old::

Oua no* table piece of their difciplinc, they told mc j that is, excepting none but the lamzaryes , tocncompasseall their other foii)tffrf*/rf^/f^M,in the Reare,wrthgrcatest part of the tfcrfe, ioso,rmeofa(&i<^(r-cW(W«£j they have order noi to meddle with the enemy , but only to neccffitace their awne forward,tillthey have gone through tUeoppofiteForceSjand in cafe of Flight, to hold themout to Hau^kter^. which done, the;a^Ives begiQ up0Q.th£ enemy : thus that aecdicie which is the Mother of all brave pcrformaoce ini vulgar fpi rits, and wbichthc Ancients fomach fought t&cast upon the Sauldier, by Hils, Riuecs, and fiieh Scicua tions, thcTunliej, carry along tn ail places,; thewty forcing valour,, even outof tesKi so fer^ing'them selvescfFe^aily of Peaple neither valiaac, norast Aioqgtfi, and that vsfithQucincEcades,.Donatittea, or i^th^r incoay^isiitiadBlgsnccofi6avsmijnien»i Thus much of their Land forces; their 'Navacs^arejiro^ videdito the Seas within tbeicDomiaicms: the cbiefb axQthesiA(iieSeata.adtb£ mted/terraMumythe H^eik* j^wtfIeAeemebikaipa0age from the one, tcythiso' thei:

Their.S4^^M0 Flsst Trades iflCoi^e'^/jrA' Seoi upon severall Setviccs j , as to invade the (jm>/io^ vitu., Circ4jfiu, Qtffackts , wich otbatSi, returniBg'irf i4y^ QtA»g»fi:, laded wiih.Hoaejs .Wawj and eipc^ K daily

cially Wood, and Slaves, which it tranfports to A lexMnkiM, buying therewith. Flax, Sugar, Sherbets, Rice, Tapeftry, Corne, and other Egjftim Comrao dicies J with which,and part of the TributCjin iAm4. ry, they returne for CenJiMtmepU , (o enjoying the Trade, Winds which inthose parts usually in Sum mer fie Northcrnly, and in Winter Southernly,

The other part of their Navy serves upcMi the Mediterrdmum j it is called the Stirhttrj Fleet ; it is the more Watlike, and acknowledges ihcGrmSignier, but not so aWbhite j for the gaines of the other Fleet goes to his Goffers; but what the ^Mores get is tlieit oivae; which makes them more earneftin Pyracy, and dcfirous to be held as Pyrats ; to gainc a kindc of libertie, and that all ChriBiMs may be Prize^without any impediatf nt by league at Court :This the Turke grants under their cxcufe of their difobedience, and ^raeie , hee infefts those Chriftiaxs , who being in League with him, hee could by no other pretence weaken J and thisalso in cafe of ncceifitie, keeps him m exercised Fleet for Wacre :

That this is conni vence appeares plaine j for he Clairaes, and Protcds their Citiesjihough not their Persons, and they never make Booty of Turiifh Goods, or Subjcta, though a Cirffiisai and divers of them I saw Saylinginthe niidst of the Arauioe Rofall ; yet they counterfeit the PyrMe so Weil, that the Gallyes, and yejfth o^Argyersi willnot come within xhe'DardaneiU , andmyfdfe not then knowing rhis Arc ,. had at Rhtdesj by a rafli miftakc,almost loft my Libertie; where the Admirall fdUtMoiTHpeiy, commiog for frefli Water, Rode ^tiicMouth of the f^above three homes witboHC

caftiog.

HosicabyCiOodi*

cafting Anchor , as pretending fearc of being within command ; this made mc judge it an £»^/^ Ship, as iike wife the Colours , which so fatrcoff 1 tookcfoc the Kings; wherefore dcfirous to fee my Countrey^* men, IhiKdiGreeke BoatmM tocarrymcthither, where being almost arrived, I perceived my de/peratc errour, from whence I was forced with cntreaty,mo Dey, and my dagger ac his breast , to make him rowe mceoff.

The Turks are but ill supplyed with Sea-men j for beside Renegadoes they have but few skilfull Saylers, and would have had fewer, but that as of old, the Carthdgifiim Hoftilitie exercised the i?cw4wacSea, whocl/e, had not focarJy learnt Navigation, and by ccinfcquencc , could not so fbonc have Maftred the World i just so, ( though in a farre weaker manner) doe Florence and MaUa contcst with the Tarke at Sea, enough to pradiifej but not defeat him : to which ef fcst, I have heard some of them by way of ;eere,/ay, that the Grast Duke,dx\d M4lu,6id by the Gran Sigmor, like iittlc barking Dfl^/ about a Lytn, keepehima wake , and if sometimes they ventut'd to give him a nippe, it did but rouze him, without any hurt of im portance j forought Ikncw, they had reasonj for though refinance be necessary , yet when so infiiffici. cnt it is worfethen none.

Their termcs of Navigation are itAlim , cither to their Slaves,, being mostofthat Nation i or that themselves Inlanders originally , have a L«ngu»ge de fetftivein Maritime affaires : Their Veflels are either Txrkijh baiki or Prizes', their ownc built, rheycall CarantfizaUt, mABy whereof are great Ships jail have K 2 Rounds

74 A¥<5yttgcin«)clte L^^f.

Rounds on the attt-iide, like Siayrcs^tteScernc,and , Bjr&caiUey-^ilcfburcorHveStarfiss high ; foas I j havefoenc sonw jflfdi^inrcarry fewn freight Jiun drcd iPaflcBgers: ihac forme makes them slow of Sxfk^ amvarliJce,: andtafilyovcr-fet by weather. WkdtGM^et are Ji^, of an excellEKmoQldj and en-

:: Thcxoaifle dcengtiiaf bcKh:t{Kir Fleets., arerall Ships taken from HaliAttders ; where the Cowardize of that Nation isinadc a Wcapoa against all chri~ ^mdvmt-^ afidteachesasnihatarcmloBscruelcieit; wouldibctoBan-eRansome, or returoc toallwhd yieJd their Ships,upDn what oddes foevct; All great examples have a Iftcle of the unjufl;; sow though this might fcemehard mcasure to hich , who yielded upon extreme oddes j yet were it neither so general! a mifchiefe , nor so nnportantas the contrary indul gence ; and men would not only become more reso lute, in thofc neceflities , but more wary of goir^ ill provided.

Nothing makes the HelUn^n so faint, as the Tnr kijh knowne Decree of impunitie, and libertie perso nall to such as render without difchargc of Artiileiy; wherefore they seeing prcfttitfafeticinyicldii^) and no future ddlrru^ion at Home , doc eafily give up o ther mens goods, for their owac fecuritic^ upon theft termes, the Admirall (?/«» where I Sayled, a goodly Vcfiell of fbrrie brave Pceccs, hadbaineta kcn, sstheTjiiififjanutcdme , by two of thcit J**!/ kers of tcn,or twelue Guns a pcecc : Our Ships they doc aoc willingly let uponj not only for their able defence , but also bccause the VcffcU , which «fcs to

be

.HosicabyCiOOt^lc

A Voy^€ into the Lnum, 75

be a considerable pecce of the fiootie, isto them un ufcfuH J for their cmploymeftts being fymej , can make little ufc of an Euglfjh Bottomc , whose mould is too slow for that purpose : - wherewith they asked me how we did in Warre at Sea , where our enemies might come on, or of, atleisure: Ircpiyed, these which came intotheit Seas, wctepriwireMerchaws Veflcls of Trade, flogs made only for burden, and weather i But for Warre our ir^Bg-hadaNavy Roy all of another frame the befl; for Sayie, and Fighr, in the World..

The strangest thing I found among the Turkish> Mariners , was their incredible civilicie ; I who had often proved the Barbarifme of other Nations at Sea, andabove all others, ofourowne, fuppofcdmy selfe amongst Beares, till by experience , Ifoimd the con trarys and that not only in ordinary civility,but with so ready service, such a patience, so (weet, and gentle a way, generally through them an,as mademedojbr, whether it was a dreame , or reall ■, if at any time I flood in their way , or encombrcd their ropes, they would call me with a lamm^ or Bmww , termes of mostaflleiSion, and that with antncline, a voyce, and geftuieso refpe^ivc,as aflured mcjtheir other words (which I underflood not ) wereof the (ante firaine :

The Captaines chicfe Gainc in this Voy^e , is by Paflengcrsj yet if interest ftiare ia this behaviour, they are not quite voyd of it , thai can a^ it lb well : Nor are th^ irreligious ; for allthe Voyage, Mor ning,and Evening, they Salute the 5»*«, with three gencrall Shouts, and a Priefl saying a kindcof itf^wy^ every prayer cndit^ with i^acree KichtoHj that is,be K 3 Angels,:

^6 A Voyage into the Lemam.

^ngtls prefsnt, the People anfwer in manner of a Ihauc timiny that is, Amen.

Thus much of the iMilitarj part of Tarky j to which I adde the point of Fortifimiea ; Herein their proceeding is diret^ contrary to the S^anUrdsy he not having multitudes of his owne fufficicnt to Plant Co hftitsy is forced in all his Conquers, ( if he will have any people CO governe over, ) to prefcrvc the Nittt rals : Now they not being afliired in Jffe£iient must be awed by Fortrejfei which is a way, not only un sure, but so chargeable, as makes him gaine but little by his winnings.

The Turke on the other side, well stored with pco pie; First, considers what number of his owne, he willafiigne for Timarhts to each Prtvime which he takes J then he destroycs all its No^ilitie, and so farrc of ther«^4r, tilltherc rest only such a proportion as may till the land, and be awed by those Timarhts with other ready Forces ; that remainder is kept to Manure the land: this thus eftabliflit, he needs not the Fortreffc for himselfe ; nor will he leave it a re fuge for Emmies, or Rebels : yet if it be a Frontier, he does not quite demolifli it , but keeps it in such cafe , as may hold out till he might fend an Army, ever fuppofinghimselfecWd^fr of the Field; where fore as it ftanas in more, or Icffc danger, {o is it pro vided :

Thus in Hungary the Castle oi Belgrade is nei ther razcd,nor carefully maintained; but that of Budd is guarded with a fttong Garrison ; all those within i

the Kingdome are pull^ downc j so is it in hisother '

Countryes: his Maritime Fortifications, ticcauseof fiiddcn acceffc by Sayie, are held in the rule of Fron-

tiers, I

tiers, and wkhall to command the f/Aueffj ycc is noc the care o£ them so diligent as in Chrifiendome ; they CTcry where gave me free acccfTe , excepting Egy^t ; where the extraordinary fubtill malice of that peo ple makes more rigilawe, andreftraint, theneJIe where :

Now foUowcs their Religion, wherein I no ted only the Pfl/rf/cif institutions thereof • theft ob fcrvations moving only in that Sfhere , cannot jarrc with a higher, though the motion fecrae contrary : ^Mohamet notit^ the outward folcmnitics , where with other Religions entertained the mindsof raeoj he judged them perhaps in part, effeminate j asthose daintie Piffttres,and Mujicke in Churchesj those strange f (f/?«rM,and Pr$sep6ns,ZT\d partly chargeable,as thore stately Sdcrijices , and other folemnities of the Hea. then^ and all driven already, to that heighth, ashee could not out-goc; wherefore hee rcfused to build his Sea thereon ;

Nor did hee much afFedl to fup port it with Mirdcks, whose credit frequent Impsfiert had rcndred fufpec^cd to the World i but rather chofetobuildit upon the 5iwr<^, which with more afTurancc commands LMankinde :Every Novdtie drawcs men in for a while ; but where the gainc is not great, they footje grow weary, unlesse compulfi* on hoM them on J therefore in his iirst beginnings^ when he was asked what MitMles he had to approve his DiifriiKfhc drawing forth his Scymitar, told, that e«/ having had his Miracles (o long flighted by the ittsredalitie of men, would now plant his L*>9ei with a flrong hand, and no more leave them to the difcre^ tioQ of IgmraM , and vainc man -, and that hee had therefore fcnt h,iinia the power of ihcSmrd, rather

then!

7& AVc^agpintochcXtfT^ffii*,

then of iMiracUs : from hence is it that now, tiieir Boyes ride to Circitpteifiest , bearing an iron club in their hands: Nevcrthelesse, hcsaylednoEtaftame his St£t{'o ^might take humane nature j not the In uHt^ttiM parti for all Suferfiitim fubfifts on weak Hy f§theses, whofc pJaufible reason may for a while pre vailc in the World, by poflcfling some shallow, rafli, peremptory braines , but cannot hold out long , un kflc it have better rtete , then that of ar^ftment :

He therefore made it comply with the mainc paits of our Nature, Hope, znAFura to the one he fetouta'fl* radicc-^ to the other though not a.fff//, yctafhrewd Furgatory : his Preaching o£Paritdice,morQ then Hcf/, fa.vouvsirtpeabovcfe4re, thereby filling the mindc with good cmrage j which was much to his Mtlititry purpofc: for hee finding the Sword to be rhe&un dacion of Empires , and tbac to manage the Sword, the rude and sensuall are more vigorous , then wits foftned inamild: r«i/tfH«//way oicivituk-^ didfirst frame his mjiitutionita a rude infolcnt/f»/«<(/«^;afcer which Aii«fafi»», he fitted his future prctecces just un. to such capacities : wherefore seeing that Mens epi w«w ate iogre^ ^zrt^eampkxiaiti/I, and h^itmH, it is (»> wonder, to^ fee them takea)With pr«mfes>, which to u&ieeioebeafllly, wd ridicuiom.^ they/ a&much de Ipifeours.; and in a more »4*«nuifway!, everything is nceivcdi, nocactherateofittsowaewordi, butasic agrees with: thercccivere htmrnr^-^ whereby, theic htpts, and^fwwthoughifalse', prevailcs^ asflr6ng]y asif true, andservethe^Af/ea&e&iSuaily, because Ofimot* which moves all our ASHaus^ isgoverned by the -^/y'lMfff; of things, nocbytheirrM/w-- Now

./Cioot; Ic

to the intent that the most notable fMifits of men might be entenained, there are foure fevcrall Orderi in their Religitn^^W very malicious ^ainfl: C^w^^W; otherwise I have not noted them vicious, excepting their profest Sodemy, which in tbe tev^at is not held a vice : each order upholds its reputation upon some onepeculiar vw/Wj whichaloneitprofeffe^notpre tcnding to any other .• The Ctlmderm upon Ch^itjt weariiE an trm Ring through the skin of his yard, in somelnave noted it capableof being taieenof with small difficulty ;

The Hag^emlar on UHufiqM , and love-songs : TUeTtrUcciiion ReveUtieffs^-atid Etit^»* fidfmes^to foretcll,and divert divine wrath: The niost rigid spirits are the Dervijlar^ like B4ais PrUBs laun cingthemfclves with Knives: thcfc DerviJUr have murdered divers Bajhatves, & alio attempted ffttAie of the Emperours, in the midst of their Arifiies j so dan gerous are violent spirits ^ when seconded by RtUgittt, whichbcing the only pretcnceinits way glorifial to Vmpirc S0veraigm Mthoritie^ is to be k^pt wi);hin its due limitSjIest in ftcad oi Cooperating with the state,it grow abufcd beyotid that ule.

All these^K?/ are governed by one Head', called the Muftjf whose auihoririe unites,and otdei's tftemj fupprelfing fiich diiordcrs, s%t\ikfcrt^ks,(xMtre(}e of men raifc .• This <J[i»ftf is created by the Em^* rour^ to whom he is held ever fubordinate ; which makes the tmrkijh ThepU^ excellently to cofrfifpond with the 5'f*e,as depending thereoni&fdenWSMKa' son more Politiike,then if this hcidSccleJiapcke were cf another Countrey, or othetwife itdefeadam upon the F«wtf,. whereby hay iog intci«irds3ipast,'fie'ittisbt L often

So A Voyage inco the £^»^

often make Ged Almightit fecmc lo decree more con fprmc thereto, then either to theoccasions of the frmce, or Commm medth ; for all Heathenijh Cods are uftdiikefa/'/'fWi they fceme to speake, yet is knot they, but the man who in aconcealed manner, fpeaks through them, what he pleaks ; that part is aded, by the Expounders of their jf/«M» now, as of the Oracles t or Sy^iUs bookes of old :

Hereby the Mufty fetves to animate the Seuldiers, by colouring Q(p4b liqite imprcfles with Divine authoritie,and aiso to de cide Contriver fits ^ when they are too unruly for any Arhitrtment, not held Bivine : whereforehc frcquent Jy confults with the Gm» vizier^ who as the Soule of the Sute^ ittj^ires him to the purpose thereof ; full of that God, he gives his QracUs f They palTe for groun ded upon the Mcherf>, which is given out for the Wordof Gtf</: it is written in Aral^icke Terie, in foivatoi Didhgite, hetv/eene the Ange/l Gahiel, and their Frofhet^ it is prohibited to be tranflated, which both prcfetvesthc ^r^;i?if tongue, and conceales Religion:

All fet Tw^j are obnoxious to severall Ex pf lions, thence growes diflraclten ; So hath this bred fourc different SeSls of Mahometans^ each inter pretii^ it according to the Genim of its Nation, the Tartars Simply^thtMoreSyaad Arabs Sitfer^itiou^y:^z yerfion ingenintfiy, the Turkes with mo^liherty : each Nation fcornes to yceld unto other in opinion, for ho nours fake^cfpecially the T«r*<, indPtr/ian, who in tending the Conqueji of oneanother,doc after the old Cuftome of Priacts, dif-affefl their Feeble in Religion towardthe Enemy ^ that they may be more fierce, and obftiflateagaioftfaim, In shis point the r»r*.f growes •" ;.> ' '" " " y — ' " difadvan-

./Ciooqlc

difadvantaged ; for oflate, his people begin to bee infcdcd with Perfidmfme: I have heard many of them in publique acknowledge the Perfiatts better t^ahemeuas^ then themrelves: which makes the Turkes much braver Souldiers upon the Chrifttdit^ then upon the Pfr/?rf« i againsttheone, theyatecar ryed by z-m/it, malice^ anddifdaine: but against the other,on!y by a Ndtiend// emttlathn :This impreffion is made deeper by many other circumftances, inso much as divers lanizaries have told me,that tliey goe to the Wars of Perfu^ very unwillingly, but to these of Poland, or Hungary as to paftimes :

One of their Priejls told me of an old Fraphecy^ they have : Thac their Emperour (hould winne the red Apple, and in the seventhyeareafter, ifthey did not defend themfcivcs bravely, thcChrifiiaas ihovAd overcome thera, buc howfoeverjin the twelfth,thcy fiiould at the furthest be overcome by the Chripam:

The red Apple Che said)was Conjlaatmeple, though someCquoth he) hold it to be Rome ; I holding such ;)mi/6£««, rather cun ning, then true, fearchcd after the Plot thereof. wherefore I entreated him to tell me, how much time was contained in thofcyeares : heanfwcredthac each yeare, (orae had limited by the age o^Mahemety but ( quoth he ) in vaine, for it is prohibited us to fearch into the times appointed j that claufe gave me some light, for I remembred, among other cau/cs of a States prefervatiofi , one alfignes prexrmitfe of danger, hisreasonisjbecause, apprehenjien of danger C3mXc% vigilance, and diligence wherein lyes fafciie. hereupon this Pr»phet^ to make the Turkes vigilant a gainst xhE-ChrifiUf^ threaten* them wichthc ftventh L 2 yeare.

8z A Voyage into the Lrpant,

yeare,yet not so mvitMa, hat valour may rcfist : and to make every ycace provi<fed against, as that, there fore is ir profaibincdto sixe the time determinate; then thdr fkcaU deQ:r<j(aion not to palTcthe twelfth yeare^akcs than in the mean? whU? pfe the chriHi mt as their fiiture dcftf oycf §» with much hoftilitie, asa revenge tfiticipati : which fervts right to the pur. po& of the State; and when all comes to all, those ycarcs(as such PrefhtiUAlhimti ufe) are like to prove very loog ones.

Amor^ft other qualities, whereby LMahtmetifme pofTcfles ^ minds of men, one is its plealiog do ftrine, Imnemberwhentheir Prophet in thtAlca ran askes the Angeil concerning venery, and Tome o dm deticacies of life^fae telles him, that God did not give man such appetites, to have them fruftrarc, bu: en joy'd,as m»de for the gust of man,not his torment, wherein his Creator delights not j Thefe kinde of opinions will ever be well-come to flcih, and bloud, wbcnasthe contraty over-great feveritieof Difci plioe would ha^vpleafed none, butfooicfcw au ilere complexions , and to the greater part would have leemed but a perfecutton of nature, or perhaps hypoerkicall, whose neputatioQ might soone have beenek^inlandal].

Thecunaing of that iecondiog humane UKlioation appearcs in the different (ucccfle of two politick aiJte 6£^zAietrm: theoncfKrmitsf0%««w>, to make a numerous People , which is the foundation oi all great Empo'es : The other pretending a diveil in eve * ry grape, prohibits wm .- thereby it hardens the

SouhScr* pecvents diforder, and £ialitAtes publique proviHon :

provifion: Thefirstas plcafii^ to nature isgcneraJ ly received : Thcothcr is borne downe by appetite, (bas more drinke wine, then forbearc:Thus he main taioinghis inftitutiiMisby secondingof humane dif pofition, fuccaeds more readily, th«) those, whofc ordinances by aofluig it , gocasicwerc againstthc hairc:

Now the greatcftnuraberof menbcifTg go vcitwd by piffst^J, in all pefipletUcy have beene enter tainedj for the prefcnt hfc, with luftice j for the in. ture, with Religim: yet there wereever found some few IntcIleffluaH complexions, in whom theVnder standing prevaylcd above the PafliGtis : those difcer Ding wits could not receive thegrofle ruppofaIs,upon which the HeatheniQi (bperftitioos relyed j where fore to traine them in such waycs as civill focieties require, they were iaftru^cd in a seeming rationall way, wherein they were amused ^>out an inteUigibU world, stored with rewards of Aow*r, veriue^ and knowledge, with punirtimcntsof/«/«»5', viecy and ig mrmce: thesewcrc tothem inflced of EUfian Fields, ox tnferitaU Rivers, and as fomc (coffers thinkc, but little better of a(rurance,onely tighter framed to such capacities .- by theCeJpecuUtitns^cwtemplative hendsy who elfc, might dangeroufly have buficd themfclvcs aboue State affaires, were finally mtp' ei,md diverted:

To which purpofc I have oft considered , whether Urm»g is ever like to come in requcst amot^ iSic Turkes • and as farreas cot^e(5iure may vetKwe, I doubt not thereof, for Usrning is not admitted in the b^inning (rf Empires-etwUit mores, necfimt ejfe fens , and so wcakneth the Sword : but when once, that bath bced^«rfrw/, sadjlet^, ehen wit^ othtr L 3 effeminacief

84 A Voyage into the Lenpam.

tffemmmes come in letters j thus in Reme,3Z the first Hflefip^jers vtctebiniiht , asum^iive; butuponihc conqiiefts Q^CarthagCi and Greece they crept in : And the T»rkfjh Empre consists much on those Ccmtryes^ whose eare makcsjpeculattve wits, and which of old, bread the greatcst Divina^ PbHofe^krs^d.r\d Ptets in theworld; wherefore though for feme ages, the Tarit/hnce mayretaine its owne proper ftrcettejfe; yet in time, those fubtile dymates^ and mixture in bloud with the people thereof, wiil Gemilize^and in fc)3 it with the ancient foftncfle mtiiraU to those pla ces :

I have often seene Copies of love vcrfes, and some few pccccs of <MdtkmdtiqHes passe amongst them with much applaufe : I saw one tor/»^y»g;,and compofing of two or three Sonnets, had ar a feast in Selgrdde oi Hmgary^ a Horfc given him worth ncerc twentie pound Eaglijh ; and in the accede of all Arts, .Peets have ever made the first entry, as with their /■/ Bi0t»s^zadMuficke, aptcst tocharme favagc brayncs, thxs Orfhtm in Greece, G^t Bards xnBngUnd^ began the Dmce to all other Sciences : Stdtimry, and Piisure can never come into Tarky^ by reason of their Su/>er 'Jiitiffftj which not only abhorres worfliipping of liich formes, but making of them;

As for other learaingt it is liltc to infitiuare, but by degrees, and with ma ny rcpulfes, as a corruption most pernicious to their Religion^ efpecially the fearching parts of fhtlofhy^ which flomacke that it^i\x^\PAradi[e^ as hath beene noted in Averroes, Jvicema, add others, who could not endure it :Thereupon, the K^udemy which be gan to rife up at Bagadat was fupprefl: yet let no man conclude that this can hinder PhHefophy^ -for

there

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

there can never wane witsablctobcndlt to Rtlighn with them, as well as Flats with the Crecia^s^ and -i 5«/fl*f with the iIo«»4»r/?j.

Now the naturallcourse of things much follows xh^Sunne, who gives life to all, wherefore this Cy clefiadia hath bccne observed to runne from Eafl, to Wejl .' Thus have most Ci-vilities^ and Sciences come as (bme thinke, from the IndimGymrtofofhifis^ into Egypt^i'com thence into Greece, so into italj^ and then over the Alpest into these faint North-weft parts of ihe world, whence if the /»j«//?«o» hinder nor, per haps they maypaffeinco ihofcnew PUmatiensWest wxrd, and then returnc in their old circle among the Levantines, whose Wits fcemc more abftrufe,,and better sixt for contemplationy but ours more nimble and ready, foas their dtfccuyfes are moxtprofmnd: ours mox^ fufcrficiall, and fUufible^ and were I to ac count for the loiTc of their ancient Authors^ I should not only accufe i4«^«()^s, TyrAnny, fVarrCyindMe rejfe Ecclefiaftique^ butcfpccially this different relifh, and ftraine ofour/d«c; from theirs, for I have found it in conceits, as in ayres of iMuJieke : in great parr, thac takes not with them which much affei^s us, our vsryReafott differs:

Before I (hut up this point of Turkish Relip»»y I must remember two principall points; QUQxsFredeftination, ihz othtt Fttrgatory r the first not naeant in matter Qisdvatien, but of /tfr titne, andfaccejfe in this life, they petemptorypermit to Deftifty fixr,and not avoydable by any a£i of oars:I had two notable examples j one was at Rhodes, where just as we entred the Port, a French Lacquey ,©f our company dyed with a great plague fore,

which

8l$ A Voy^ into the Lgyanu

which he had taken of the Gunmrs Mate , who with 0»c Eunnit^ upon him, converfed, add ilcpt amongn: us -• The rest were so farre ftom featt,at hts death,as chey fate prcfcmly eating, and drinking by him, and within halfe an houre, after his reniiovalI,ilcpt on his Blanquet, with his cloathes insteadof aPtUow; which wheti I advifod them not to doe, they pointed upon rheir foreheads, telling me it was written there at their birth when they ihould dye ^ they (caped,yet divers of the passengers dyed thereof before wee got to Egjst :

The other was at my pafl^gc to K^ndri* wple in Tkraee • my selfe,the lanizarj^ and one more being in a Conchy wee passed by a man of good quali tie, and a Souldicr, who lying along, with his Horfc by, couldhardly speakefomuch, as to intreat us to takcbim into Coach ; the imizdry made our com panion ride his Horfe,taking the man in .-whofc brest being open, and full of plague tokens, I would not have had him received ; but he in like manner, poin tings to his owae forehead, and mine, cdldmewcc could not t^c huiT, unlefic it were written rhere,and that then we could not avoyd it ; thesellow dycdin the night, by our sides: and in our indemnitie ap proval this considence, tobesometimcs /»-«»,i?r, how wifefocveti doubtkfleforthepobliqueitcau fcs ■f Www , and prevents that imerruptm of Trade, wherewith the ^^e Q^Htaith in itdj, midcis grcatet ntimbei^ daily, thenat^pl^ueevmdidt I thought this opinion offdtsi, had ufiially taken mm off ftom aliirf^firista cateof theit ownefifety • but in dan gws at Sea^jand-othcr cafes Where diligence may evi ck:^^y import, LhaVe^lfiililf^Llfiditb&COlltt-at-yj and*-

in such eccurreiKe as these, where indaBrj is not of manifest avayk; this aQurane docs not foe much hurt in leaving vainc care, as good in ftrcmhning the spirits whofc decay ycclds a man up to all bad m frefsiMs :They admit no fieU foe any but thofc who belccvc not MtUmet ; their ownc they affright with a VurgAtorji which holds but till DBOmts-Baf-^ it is ai^ed in the Gravt j the paiac is inflidted by a bad K^iHgeUj whole force is Icifcned by a good one, accor ding as the parties life was led ^ to flrengthen this good jia^elUhcy doe. many workesof chariric: this ftirniihcth all turkj with excellent HttaeSt mjpUals, and Meskeettes } this makes the best bridges , and high wayes that can be imagined^ and stores them with famt4im$ for the telicfe of fofengm :

Theft faire works foe caused , feem«] to mee like daintic fruic growing out of a Dnng-hill; butthc verms oi vuU gar minds are of so bafe a nature, as mufl bee manured with fooHst] /w/ftfj andfearei, as being too groffc for the finer nutriment of reason :

Thefe were the chiefe points I observed in their ReUgion ; onely the manner o{ its exercise rcmaines which in bricfe, is thus: To every Meskeeto is adjoyncd a high flender Spyre Jteefk^ on the out-side whereof on high » is made a roand» with a doore opening S$»t^ Eafi^ov Eafij as the Countrcy lyes towards Mecha-^ here the Friefi-et^' tring, with his hands bowed over his eares, walking round, tufningon the right hand, in aloud voycc eels the People, mai^ rimes over, rfaat there n bur obc God.^ this being dooc, all the clevouter fort, (which, are not many) goetoc^^'^, and say x\x\t fruyers^ cominu^ly K^GmRg^A'^hfnilkyb^itiS$yphf (hot M is,

88 A Voyage into the Ltymt.

is, the (evcrall names of God-^ ibcir gefiures arcfirst fitting aroflc Icgg'd, wafting ot the body , then pro ftrate twice on rheir face, ihcy kiffethcearthi after ward they rife , and stand with their hands bowed o< ver their eares, but never doe they knede, or uncover the head, holding thole poflures unmanly j fo^iffe rcnt are thQepinions oiNatiom, in point of reverence ,' and t^eeeney : this fervicc is performed five times a day:

Gt&stDay-hreake; thenac LMid-day^ atmidst of the Afitr-mme ; at Sun-fet ; and more then an houreafter.- Thefirstand lastmake adainty fhow, having all the Meskeetoesy hung full of burmng Lamp : this frequency of Prayer, requires none to the Churchy but perlbns at leisure ; othcis make their houses, or bigh-wayes fcrvc, and was devifed by Sergm the Mmkcy as it is thought, in imitation of his foure times of.

Pdterrffofier ; knowing that itc/r^/oa runs no grea ter danger then of oi/f-WM, and therefore shouldbce offencalledtominde - their chicfediyis i^r/i3'4y, yet it hinders no Market for ought I could fee,,, and (ee med of no , more regard , then the day of a Sxim zl most worne out.- they have two folcmne times By' rami and Ramtiap j they are both Lent^s, the first laAs thrcedaycs, the other a-moneth : their fast is accor ding to the /^wz/J manner, ooi'm quantity^ or quatitie of meats, bni in time ^ foralldaylong, they may nei thcr.cate, drinkc,,norufeany fortoff^fwfrji; butat the; appearing of the first Srarre, they make^theai selves amends , in giuttonneffe^ dntnkennejfe, and lufi ^ , they have one peeceofl3ww>//^, which I wonder is tut te4fijpi4tiu4 to otlKr Countryes ^ that is a custome siLthflrie^t.toieW their merits Tome more, some

Icffc,,

, . rio5:MbyCiOOglc

lesse, according to the SanSiimony of the Seller , and time limited i lonctzxSephu, law one fell the ver tae of two ycares hermitage for a peecc of blew cloth fufficicntfor two TuikilS coares, and a quantitie Of Rice, aboDt five buHiels Englfjh ; price enough confi dering the Ware in it selfe ; and yet not deare, if wee reckon the advantages of a religious reputatien j Next their church t I must place the Trihttntdl-^ tor their ludgeszrecwerEecUfiaJlicall personsj whereby both orders joyned give «^«/tf*/'ff» to one artbthcri and not onely reputation, but mamtemmce^ for rhefc places of Judicature axe ths onely preferment of the Prieji-hed. wherewith the fw/if, and /«<^i! being maintained in thefanie per/on, twogapsare stopt with one buHi, without causing any part of the land to lye dead in the hands of the c/fr^, orotherwise impovcrifiiing the people with tythes .- There are divers orders of fudges; cfpccially two ; thcC<ii^, and over hira the tjHoaUsady like a Lord Chiefeluftice ^ the fupremc head oilukicalHre is the Mufty^w great cafes, there lies appeale j but none beyond the Mufty j his Decrees the £w/Krrwr himselfe will nor queftion, for indeed they are secretly guided by his ijJetfU and the Grart Fis-iers ;

Thefe/Bi^ware all, excepting thzMitfty^ limited to fct Prccinds, and when conviifled of corruption, they are made horrid fATJw^/fj j The mainc points, where in Turkish lufiice differs from that of other NAtims^ are three : it is more Severe, Speedy^ and ^^rbitrary :They hold the foundation of zW Empire toconsist in cxatS thediencti and chat in exemplary yevwrf« i whicJi is undeniable in all the World , but more notable la thtxx State, made up of severall People dii&renc in tUudf Se^j3.ndl»terejfej one from another, norlinke

^^ Ho^ibyGoOglC

po A Voyage into the Ley ant,

inaffciSion, or any common engagement toward the publiquegood, other then what mcerc terror puts upoBthems aj^f« ^-Wi/ were uncfifefftuaU upon such afi/i-je^, and would soonc findeir selfe flightcdj there fore tfae TaM/yA /»/?/« curbes, and executes, without cither remorce or refpest j which succeeds better , then ever did the /Ttfffiuw, withoiltheir milder arts of Cwilttie; compare their conqucfts, withihofe made by the Turke-^ you (hall findc his to continue quiet^ and firmc, theirs not fecurc for many ages j witncne first Italjy then <Jrtece, and Frame, alwaycs full of Re belliotjs, Confpiracies, and new troubles; which werecaused by their /(»>/;, that did not humble the conquered foe low as tcshould j fur rebellion is no thitig but bold 4///2-Mtff»;; so that as there is required difcontent, so mull there bee also some Arength of Spirit, without which the difcmtent cannot quicken into rtbeliiMj but faints into a ftupified htanilitie •■ all viflory difgufts the fubduedj a mi Ide vi^or leaves that difgust spirit for mifehiefe .• but the remorce leffc way of the Titrke , mortifies it , by an op preflion which secures him : lo this efkA , I have heard divers of them boast, that G(»a' hath appointed them for an iron rod ouer other Namns : and in most parts of Turky , efpecially ScUvottia , BsfitAb, Htrngary , iMAeedmin^ and 7 brut, the fiercefl: people of that^Tv^/'re over all pvblique places, he fetsagreat ijTM cltib , to intimate, what they muA trust to ; nor does bee ^a tnuch relye upon the peoples affeditn, which would tye him to a refpcAfull , and le^ abso late demMmn , and then also be in their power to al tCTjtis.uponchst ftrcDgth which isiohisowoe hand

makes.

, HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

A Voyage intothc Leneaht. ^i

makes him more him/clfe, and binds with the eye of ftare , whereto humane nature is ever enthralled: The ftcond point wherein their justice excels, isihe quickedifparch: Ifthebufincffe bee prefcnt matter of fa&, then upon the least complaint, the parties, and upmMtes are taken, and suddenly brought before the luiigey bycertaine Iai$izaries y who with great ftavcs, guard each ftrcet, as our night Watchmen wichHol bcr-ds , at Lmdtn ; the cau{e is ever in lefTe then two houresdispatched, exjMWw inftantly performed un lefTeit appeare a cause so important, as is allowed an Appeals to the MouUcady , where also it is as fpeedily decided;

Ifit bee matter of////f, ox tight, the parties name their witnclTes who shall prefcntly bee forced to come in ; for they have no old deeds , or any other reckonings beyond the memory of man 5 in such cdfes,. f^Jfepw, zwdittoderne right carryes it, without that odious course of looking too farre backe-ward into the times past : this expedition avoyds caafufim , and cicares the CfAtf'; ; whereby it becomes fufficient for many causes, and so for a great people ; now as for the particular perfen, though sometimes bee ieeme difad vantaged by the hast , which may make jud^emtm rafb; yet that hast not htm^paponate, it happens not often ; nor then likely, is his dammage therein worfe, then with us, where after xhcffijpemejsielaj, and chM'^t offuit, the over-fight of a X4»;er, may with enour of pleading cast a good cause; foe that after a man hath beene miferably detained to such difadvaotage of his other affaires, as hee had better have loft his fuic atfirst; then doth it finally depend not fomuch oa its owne bare right, as upon the Mltvesttj (u&ckticy |.

M J The

pt A Voyage into the Levant,

The last notable point of their ludicAiure is, they have JittkHxcIaw, and therewith flouridiing, make good that of TacituS'-inpefifna Repuhlica piurtmx leges \ yet they pretend to judge by the i^lceraa; whereby the opinion of divifie aHthoritie does countenance ihofe arbitrary decifions,, which without some mthentique Uw to justiiie them, would hardly bee endured ;This t-^lcoraa is raanifeftly no Bookc of particular law cafeti whereforethcy pretend its ftudy does not in forme the lut/ge liter/Sy J but by way o£ i/fttmifjatim , which not being given ro fccular persons , does neat ly put loosersofF, from referring themselves to the Texf :

The iMpce being arbitrary , makes it in their opinim, chemoretothc purposeofthepubliquci for the ludges knowing themfclves but inflruments of Statty andthat in its favour is their eftabli/limentj they willeverjudge by the intcrefle thereof , if not out oc hanefty^yct for their ownc advancement.

I must eternally remember the Turkish justice for honourable to Strangers, whereof I have twice had experience : First at Sarai^^ in Befnah , where I was forced to luftice by a Chrijlkn, whom I had fore wounded, for threatning to buy mee for a slave j when the Caufe was declared by two Turkes my compani ons j i\ieIuJge nor onely freed mee with words ^ and gefture very refpeiilive, but fined my adverfary at for xicDeUars, and menaced him with death-, if any miC chiefewere plotted against me.

Another time at ^»i^Mo;'/i?, eIcven,or twelve of us foppitig together, all Turkes but my selfe ; there was zSeuUek, whoisan Officer very eminent about the Empertttrs petson j hee drankc so beaftly drunkc, as in * the

./Cioogic

the night, hec having a lodging in the top of the ffauej miftookchimrdfe, tumbled off to the ground , and within few houres, dyed: The next morning, all the company wasimprisonedjbutl, whointhenight,liad eicaped out at a decayed corner, of the Hnjte, and hid my selfe under a Bridge , without the citie j every man was fined as cireumHaMce did eif her excufe , orag gravatc, the leafi: payed foure thousand Afpers > fomc twice as much .■ The Judge by reason of ray flight, fiifpedied some extraordinary guilt in me,and had sent out lanizmes for my dp^rehenfion,

I seeing the outragious drunkennefle of the Tnrkes, had all my Voyage pretended for little leflTe then a Commmdiment'mxhc Rdigimoi my Coimtrtj ^ not to drinkeabovcthrce draughts at a meeting 5 whereby, the refpei5i oUonfcience gave mee thatprivi/edge of io briety, which no other excufe could have obtained j wherefore when the ludge was by the rest informed of my abfiinence, and that I had no hand in the exceffe, he called backc the officersyind pronounced mee free . wherein , whether hee regarded mee as A^fiemi 9HS t or as a Granger , I could not learne :

One c« fiome in their /«/?/« I have found, which confutes our vulgar mwATf^ffiw, that sayesiio commerce can bee maio taincd without^^/i/f/y of oath , for all Twrjfji is but a w/ytf^&sj' of people, whose Selighnshive little effeii upon the confcieneet and that drowned in/aSf/eaa gainst oncanother , some of them as the Zittg/otaest doe not so much as pretendtooanyG#f/: inthis cafe, anoathwereofto flendcro*ei//f fot matters of w/w tMce-, for hee who will commit tcftimony to oath, mustbcefurc to uphold iathe people ^x^mfnll^ and

undtr

./GoQglc

9 '4 A Voyage into the Leyant,

temUr£mkQiDiv'mep»wtr, orelfein trufting oathcs with tryals, hecxalts knavery in the t^prefsien oitrttih whdrcfore they put not the mtmjfes to oath, but exa mine them a part s wherein some wife Darnels may ha»e fiich art of queftions so umxpeBedy and of fijch ftcrtt cMfeaueaee as no premeditate agreement can prevent :A fitlfe mtaejfe endures what the accused ifaotild havedone, had he beenc guilty .- The word of a knowne Tnrke upon the faith of a LMuJfelman beares downe all other tejiimeny, unleHe relieved by strong cirmmftance :

Three wtmen make i>ut »ne vitaejfe. . - When any man dyes , the land in most parts of Tifrky , is tn the Emperturs gift , who also hath the temh of his movedles .• The rest first paycs the tVid ^iWf dieir loimure agreed, andinrolled; then what remaincs is equally divided among his children .- The sonnc of any great Commander, neither inherits his fa thers ^fijw/;, nor is admitted to new ; thus are both Riches, and ^owtfr hindered from continuing ina/d wit^S vrficrcby none hath any credit with the peo ple, but as instruments tothe Grast-Signior, who being fole-givcr of all,every man fits himlclfc to his employ memst without poflibility of any greatmjfe unservice tAUj inHependant , or dangerous to the Crowrte .- for place , the right hand they hold uppermost for the <:ltr^ f and the left for a Souldier , bccause it gives a mad pofleillan of his Companions Sverd; thus doe .bochorders converfe without the depreffion of ci ther .• VpOB this Body of their Lawes, I will fet one BOMconoemingtheir Bead-.

Every St4te is then best fitted, whea its Lawes^ and Grvtrnwrs fuit with the tiidwheteeo itisixamcd: A State ordered ondy co prefervatm

frefervAtim is then happy when its Ltwes not onely bid peace, for that is vaine, butcontriveit, and when the Prince is of Nature peaceable : But the Turhjb Empire \s originally compof'd to amplific by warre, and for that purpose, keeps the Smldeirj in continual! payi wherefore iris best fitted witha Prime o( na ture violent, and warlike, of which ftrainethcJtf*** meta/t Race ufetobeej and when any of them hath chanced to proovc »(//</«,though never so;»/,and Reli gieui, it hath beene found lesse profitable, and glori ous to the fa'/'iri, thenthcviolenceoftheothcrs, al though accompanied with much Tyranny -^ Therefore tbcfuppofcd errors of 5«/*4» t^urat now reigning, being manifefljy those of a flout Spirit , agree with violent nature of the Government^ wherein they are not so pernicious zs the cbrifiians imagine;

To rhefc better parts of their luftice, I must attaquc the mainc difordcr which defames it j thatis, their unfaiiable covetoufnejfe ; which in a MoraH, or Theologicall way this discourse cannot lay hold off; but in refpetSsO vi//, it is a thing of dangerous efeist many times dif appointing commands of greatei[t«»/^yw»«.- Charles the eight of /"r^wfc loft the kingdome of i^^-J^/w, not To much by any other crrour, as by the csvetwfrtejfe of his Treafarer , the Cardintill oi San Md» in detai ning such disburfemcnts as the King bad appointed to theprovifions thereof; nor can there be any grea ter defeat of fuhlique defignes, then when the com mands whereon theyrelyc, arebythc avariceoi the inferiour Magiftrate made fruftrate: wherefore I noted it is a pernicious piece of Government, that af ter the Ba/haes had at Sopf/ya made publique Procla N mation

^6 A Voyage into the Leyant.

mation to hang all lanizdnes who should be found behind them; yet did I fee many very considently ftjy behind, and make their peace for money with the Gevermurs of Provinces ; fomc told nice that if it Ihould come to the £w/i«w»« notice, lice would put those Governors to cruell deachcs ; and certainly such crrours can have no lesse remedies : wherefore Foly hiutt and others as they write, that the Africans were alwayesmorc covetous then those of £«?"i»^*, foalso doe they accufe them of more cruehie; and fomc times crucltie is tiot only xhecure of their avarice, but thseffeii of it, for they gladly take any colour for execution upon those whose death affords a good csnffcatien:

The fouith point propofed was their «»#«// parts: Thofe I compare to G/d^/ -• the edu cation and W« of a Country are the moulds where in they are blowne to this, orthatfhape, butthcwrt . r<//isthespiritof aman, therefore with that Iwill begin:It hath beene maintained , that men are natu rally borne, some for JUvery, others to command: divers eomplexhns make men trntdt dextrotu , fotient, . inMffiriom » and of other qualities right forfcrvice; others are naturally Wrfj»4»r>w(«iw , eo^derate, rapaci , etst tdari/tgtZnd peremptory 'y No man can say.Nature intends the one fort to obey ; the other to rule ; for if iVitf«rff have intentions , yet is it vanitie to argue them by our modell -- quis illi asecretis ? but sure the latter are very prone to invade the others, and they as apt to beare :

This differcacc of Spirit is manifcst , fomc times in whole Nations ; as to compare the Spanifb with the Sicilian ; the hravtry of the one, and pujillam mitj ofthcocher, fecmes naturally to marks out the

one

./Cioogic

one ^or 2>ommathir, the other fox i>o»di^e : Thus if c ver any race of men were borne with S/trits able to bearedowne the world before them, Ithinkc it to be the Turke; heisinhis behaviour, ( howfoever other wile ) the right sonne Qfijhmaell j every mans hand is against him , and his against every man : betwcenc Chrifimdtme^ and Ptrfu, he hath all the world against him J he ilill defignes one, or both, for his taskc ; and that not as other /"r/wfy, for comterptjfe v/kh intent ofPeacej but with a refoiucion irrevocably engaged, to bee «(/, or mthing :

Vnto the greatneffe of their £«» fire, I doe much afcribe the greatneffe oftheir Sfirits : No man can expedi in Luc4, or Gem* such vafl: fold mcn,as in old Rome ; for mighty Empires exercise their fubjctSs in mighty employments, which makes thera familiar with admirable examples, and great vi&ories, whereby their minds are inlargcd : whereas petty ^*4;« with their f«(y employments, timid counfels, and frequent difgraces,impovcri(h,and enfeeble mens fauces, rendring them pupiammous, and too flraight for greatthoughts -- Now as all conftitotionsof bo dies are prone to severall difeafes peculiar to their frame • so have the minds of men to their divers a bilities some proper way of error ; xhefukile ufc to bee mMlicioHi,fdst, zaAfuperfiitiotss; theTVwdirenclineto breach of pramife^ to bafc wayes of revenge, and the likC;

The magnanimom are apt to bee corrupt with an haughty infoUney^ though in some fort ^wic««f .■ this is theTurhJhvisy^remorceleffe to thofcwhobearc up, and therefore miftaken for beaftly ; but such it is not ; for it constantly receives humiU^mn with much sweet f"ff<- This to their (&fl«(MW, zndmyfatufa^ie»,lever N 2 found :

soond : I had almost bourely exftrkwe hereof, which my uafoykd fucceflc makes mec not blufli ro remem ber j yer not to weary my pen, I will noteonclymy seconddayes journey, which in the contrary enrer caimnent of my selfe, andzRhdgufeangzvz me the firfi: rafte :I clad in Turkish manner, rode with two Turkesy an houre before our Cdravmi, wee found foure.S'^4-&;' Timmetsby a river, where we stay'd , They were at dinner, and fecit^ by my head, I was a chrifiUnj they called to me ;

I not undcrstanding what they would, stood,still, tillthey menacing their weapons, rofe, and came to mce, with lookes very ugly ; I fmiling met them, and taking him who seemed of most port, by the hand, layed it to my forehead, which with them is the greatcst fignc of /(JW, and homitrt then often cal ling him^s^<(«w»,rpoke£»^///^, which though none ofthekindest, yet gave I it such a found, as to them .who understood no further, might (eeme offeSiiortAte, ktM^lCy aud htip'tj I which (o appeafed them, as they made me nt,and eate together, and parted loving .- pre sently after, they met the Ctravan , where was the Rhogufean^ Merchant of quality, who came in at Sp^ iatrdtoQoefixCm^afitmeple, he being clothed in the //4//<fffafliioQ, andfpruce, theyyuftledhim .' He not yet considerit^, how the place had changed his con dition , flood upon his ttrmes , till they with their Axes, and iron Maces ( the weapons of that Country^) broke two of his ribs, in which cafe, we left him bc hinde, halfe dead,either to get badce as hecould,oi be devoured of beafls :

Not two hourcs after, I walking alone, on thcMhct side ofthe river, met sixe,or fcaven more* who efpyingaDaggetJflniy pocket, fnatchtic suddenly,

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

fuddeoly, and fee ic againit my bteail \ wherewith one ofthem fpeaking ft*//**, Iwonso ferre iipon them, with rcfpctaive words > as they had me ioto a house, where wee eatc , dranke , and lodged together j and thoughsomegot verydrunke, noneoflered meeany injury, but kindly advifed me , co lay aside chat wea pon,and nfe such as the Countreypermittedj finally afterdaily ruccclTcinthcHkekinde , Igrewso confi dent of the Tttrkijb nature, as when Lances, or Knives^ were often fctagainst me, I doubted aot ray selfe, un Icflcirwere by a Drmkard, or a Souldier 'vgli$prtier ; fordrinke makes the/i«c; of the one uncertaine, and the other going to merit Paradtfehy killing q£ chri ftims was no fafc company for meej nor were my wayes being framed oncly to receive infokncy, able to entertainc malice , efpecially a wrf/icc engaged by Re ligim :

This haughty disposition of others , makes thefalhions of other Countrejs rather defpifcd , then imitated, so that in all xhtln-lzndoi Tarky, where chrifiian Merchants ufe nor, if I appeared in the least part clothed like a Chrifiian^ I was tufted like an Owie among other birds : atfirst I imputed ittoB^r harifmcy but afterward lamenting thereof to one of the better fort, to note how they undcrstood it ; hec told me, they would have no novelties, and therefore would difgtaceall acw examflet '^ then I perceived it to bee a pcece rather oi iifjfit»t(M,thea InciviUtie j for they desiring perpctuall hoftility with the ChrifiiMs, must cstrange the People from their cw/dww as utter ly as may be ;

Now there is no innovation drawes in forteignc manners fafler,then i{ax.QiAfpareil: Besides tkic , ic seemes hoaouctble for the TMrhjb Nacion, to N 3 tctaine

recaine their ancient h^it of clothing -, for as the French Ccurt gives this fidcof the world patternc of apparelljso docs the Turkish to the Lev4/rt .• Y« they to this day vary but little from that long, and loofc manner of garment reported to have becnc cverused in the EaB :

Their houses are generally made oihricke dxycdinthsSumei poore, and low, that they may not be worth taking from the child, when the father dyes: The ^»^//^tff buildings are vafte, andftatclya farreoifj that also is wonderfully beautified by the abundance octrees ; planted among the howfes 3 lb as each C'nie leemcs rather a Wood, then a Citie 5 which bcside the pleasant afpetS, Shelters against the Sum. mcrsSunne, and Winters winde: the streets are not broad , but paved with an high foot caufic on each side, in the middle is passage foe Carts, and Horfes, from the Caves on both sides , is made a boorded Arche not very close, yet much defenfive against ^»»w,and fine ■• Vpon the taking of any Towne,the first thing they erefl, ispublique Bathes , which they cftabiifliwith faire revenues; so that for lefic then twopence, any man, or woman may be bathed with cleane linnoj, and never attendant ; it is death for any man to enter when women hnith, which hce fliall know byaBarrebeforcthe!iii)o«: heeox jhee w^o hathenat twice, or thrice a wcekc, are held »-/?? i every time they make water or other uncleanc cxcrcife of nature, they wafli those parts, little regarding who stands by; if a Deg chance to touch their haHa,they wa/h pre iently : before Prayer they wafli hotb face, and haaJs, sometimes the headf and privities : many of their Cu ftomw havcbcftiein £0^r thousandsofyeares before (J^ahwetifme j

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

fj]fah9metifmei{o neceflary a thing to prevent difeafes, iscleanlineffe inhot Countrjesy and to men of grofTe food; to this Herodetu4 alcribcs the old circumciiion in Egypt, and so doe I that oiLMahsmet, who had no diviner warrant, and cared not for bare imitation : for the ^uthors of SHpcrJlition when they finde C« Jiomes very ufefuU , knowing that rcason fufficcs not toholdtheminpradiice whh the vulgar , they plane themamongfttheir oihcr ceremomes, and make them confcientiotts, which is theonclyway to put them up on low capacities .• in the skirts of each Towne, nccrc fomc river, orother pleafing profpeiS there ufc to bee round open Gdrden-houses , where any may fit, and passe time :

Besides all former refpeds, there is a no iher feate, which furoiHies Tarky with magnificent Bridges, Hmes^ Meskeetses, High ipoyes, and other pub \i<\:ic ftruSiures ', that is this.- When any Provincial! Cfvernoar, is both for riches^ and rapim, notorious, he is sure ere long to be circumvented, or elfe layed open to the accufer, for a confifcation ;Hcetopreventthis, hath no fairer way, then for the good, to make feme workc of eminent magnificence j wherein hee gaines two fafe points of reputation , in being held Pious, and exhauftj the one flops the ^«»/i/-, thco thcr thcExchtijiter :

Their D«*is very full, and grofle, [hey will refute all dainties forapcecc of fat (Mat ton • that they fccth with Rice, which is the most gc ncrall food they ufc ; they call that mixture ?ilme, over it they put mUU made thicke, and fowcr, called fugnrt, with fcAst, Rice, and Mumn they make their Porrnge chttrbdb : theseare the three ordinary dirties Q^Tftrky ; chcy want not oth«s,as Luxnrjf or nccelTicie

require:

require : Their mighty catiung I imputs to the drink ing of witftr, which after awhile, makes a goodfto Diacke, as by experience I found .• They abhorrc ilcuj, and things ftranglcd, and care httlefor//*, or flwte, but often buy them alive, to let them "oc j whereto they pretend no Macmffrchofis , or°any other rca son, butthatofnaturallcompaflionj wherein they ate so good, as to let /iir/t feedc of their Grmarus, cfpecially in chofe oU^fefh, at Grg?i CAire^ a place is left open for Birds, and some thousandsot Stalls ycarcly fcored off for the fame to the Bapai ; thus ate in Turky all Birds fotame, never ufcd to violence, as I have throwne my Coate upon Tiirtie-Dovts in thehigh-waycs, and gu/iiUs would ordinarily hif upon our Uggcs, and armcs,, as wee flept in the fr/ds :

Every night they (hut Digs, and Cms forth of doorcs ; that is a piece of their tiligien, mi a cleanly one ; the Dogs goc most together making a hideous noyle and are dangerous by night, to tkeeves, and drttnlcards • others seldome walke among them after it is darke:

The onelybeaftly ipea^of injupcc I foundamongihe Turkes, was their considence, to catch or buy up for Slave, aiiy chriftim they findc in the Countrey ; nor can hec efcape unlelTe where he bee a fetlcd knowne Mir ehuttj or goe with some Pr9tt£ior • I met with rnany who in such Voyages as mm had faltie (hort, aadfri fkfiid the like tome.- I have divers times becne put to defend my selfe with my Ktiifi , from being flio vedintohoufcs, by those who would have kept mee ■tiSUve-, and scarce any day past , but fomcor other cheapned mee with the lanitMj; who If be had fold mec, I had BO remedy, bcsidewhatdifdaincof life

might

HosrabyCiOOt^le

might bsve presented : this I held the wotfi part of my danger^ at)d against which, there is aO prcfxarati on of aflurance,but in a goall resolutionyet as miich asinmeelay, lusedtwo waycs of prevention 5 orw was when they queflioned my cQodition, & dc%ne, which was often 5 I gave themseverallaccounES, as I noted the P/**, and AuMtwy y still in cfFc<2 to fliew me borne wA,but felne to pvertie, withoutany fault ofmines my friendsal! dead, and thathavrngnoa bilitie for gainc, I had wager'd the small reliques of myfbrtuoe> upon irretuine from C^^^tf/m^, and Grm Cairo : this though farre below my fortunes,yet passed with thera for truth,and fucba one, as ctnbel leflicd withfitcircumftance, procured me eftceme, and companion ; and which Was aboTCaUjmade me ^peare unpitoficable tothe buycijfor thoy buy more in hope of ransome, then service .- and therefore of ten enquired , where I had any correfpondcnce : my other way was to note the territories ad)Oyoing,with the wayesfor flight, toftudy our company :■ and giving !!>!>»* to fomc, jw»^ toothers, lever kept ih secret peniion fomc of the Caravan who . understood tbe/d»f«^,andtokimceaUthatpast: tlrenineach place of abode, I acquainted my felle with^ some Re^ ntg^ty wbofc story after he had delivered, I Itncw how to.malce him so much my friend , as in cafe of danger, would bare hclpt me to flyc, orconcealc herein was the m(^ cxpcna^and uriqaie* erf my i{0^ dge : this excepted, the T0riitjh difpc^itin is gew rdus, loving, and honcfl:;so farre from falfifying his pramife,as if he doebut hy hts handatt his hrust, httrdyOxkeadf asthyufc, orchiefcly breake^rMrf O with

104 A Voyage into the Le'pant.

with me, if I had an hundred lives , 1 diirst venture them upon bis word, cfpecialJy if he be a natural! Turke,no rj^ore, Jrd, or Egyptian; to thofc I never committed my k\k^ till they had engaged wife', and childrcnfor my fafedelivery:They seldome travel! fingjc, butexpefling till a great nnmbcr be bound for the fame place, goe, and lodge together : this ie cures from thieves unleffe they come in troopes, and then the Gevermur fends against them :

Though great 'part of 7«ri)i be but of new plantation , and thererorenot yet populous, ncverthelcfTe , in every place of good pafturage, there are Shcpheards, fomc of them with flocks of two or three thousand , fee ding from ooeCitic, to another, which causessuch plentie in Townc,and Countrey,as for an haUe-pcn ny in moil towncs they fell , as much roiled Muttett, as one man can eate,and for two fhillings three-pepce, I have fcenea live fat flieepe bought in places two Iiundred miles from any Citie.

In most; townes ati halfcpcnny loafc will fuffice two or three men a rheale: This plenty was iirst caused by depopulati on, but wil! in time, breed greater numbers of their owne race r The natural! Turkes, and the Renegidtes are not fubjefii tothofc taxes and tollesof Chrijlen' dome,nQX is their quiet, and plentie fit to be publiflied among the adjoyning Cbriftiam-^ only vineyards in whofc hand focver, pay to the Sfahyes, to the Gu/trdi am, and others, becaufc Wim is a prohibited Ware ; yet after all those perftcutions , it is much cheaper there, ihcn'm chriftendtmef but not every where to be hadjfor though in that ^oizit^M^^emets wife order fuf £cr violence, yet wiih the better part it prevai!cs» and . " --.-._. makes

./Cioogic

makes some drinke with fcruple, athers with danger; the bafer fort when taken drunke,are often Baftinaaoed on the bare feet j and I have fccne fomc after a fie of drunkcnneffe, lye a whole night crying, and praying to Msbtmef iozimtKzffim^ that I could not flecpc ncerc them ; so strong is confcicncc even where the fouodation is but imaginary :

This want of ww hath devifed other drinkcs to theirmeate, for the better fortj ^%Ffaphvihidn\svf^er{QdyfiiKhRMfinSf fomc timcs with H0»ey ; but above the rest , they cftecmc Sherbet^ made with 5»^4r,thc )ay cc of Ummons, Pea ches tAfrmckes, rkUtSy or other Flmers, Frmts, and P/tfw^waseachcountrey affoords; these are dryed together, into aconsistence reasonable hard,and por table for their ufe in )^dr«, orclfe-where, mingling about a fpoonefuli with a quart oftV'iter ;

They have another drinke not good at meat, called Couple made of a Berry, as bigge as a small Bea/Kj dryed in a Fur nace, and beat to powder, of a foote colour, in tafte a little Bitterijh that they feech, and drinke hoteas may be endured ; it is good all houres of the day,buc efpecially morning, and evening, when to that pur pofe, they entertaine themfcives 2 or 3 houres in Cm fhei(j«/>j, which in all Tmkj abound more then /«««, and AU.httfes with us: it is thought to be theoldl blacke broth used so much by the Lacedemomans» and dryeth ill humors in the ftomacke, comfortcth the braine, never causeth drunkenneffc, or any other fur fcit,andisaharmelcflc entertainment of good fellow fliipi for there upon fcafFoIds,halfe a yard high, and covered with Mats, they fit croffe-Uggd zit^x the Tm'kijb manner^many times two or three hundred to O s gethcr.

io6 A Voyage into the Levant.

gtthCTj calking, and likely with fomc poorc Muficke paffing up and downa The Mufikeo£Tnrky is worth cdnfido-ation ', through all those vaftc Dominions, 'there runnes one tune, and for Ought I hard,no more, nor can every man play that j yet fcarccany but hath ijlMiff wkhtwo ftrings, and aiFealh, and other meetings, will considently play, upon it, but hce knowes not to what tunc , nor can play the ^me twice over ; this I'm fare of^ for to make experiment, I have ventured to play at divers raectit^s,pretcnding the ayers of my coantrey, to note whcchtr they had skill of nOjand tookc so well as ihcy havctofcAl-made meplayagainej then I found their skill and mine a iike, for I never understood the lead touch of any in ftrument i Nothing could more difguife their Geniut unto rac, who wasufcd to eucflc at ihc/<w/?«of men by the ^res wherewith I fouod them mod taken, al most as much as by their discourse :

I must not for get to note their /c^*/??, wherein a Tiwii exceeds an J$aliatt, as farre as he us ; the caule is Pclygamyjvrbich makes the husband guiltieof infufScient correfpon dencc and therein fearcfuU that his wife may feeke a , further iatisfai^ien ; therefore their women goe muf fitd all but theeyes, nor are fuiJred to goe to church, or (o much as looke out at the windowes of theit owDChoufrs:The man may divorce when he will, with reftitution of loynture, and iome further fatis ^aion , as the lud^e pleafcs , yet not without fomc reafbnable praence againfl: the woman : I saw ac Att drio9fU a woman with many of her friends went weepingtoaAii^f J whereinhisprefcncc, (hetooke of her sh9$e , and held k the folc upward , but fpakc nothing

./CipOgIc

nothing; I enquired what it OKant , one told me, ic wastlKocremony ufcd when a married woman com piaiaes that licr husband would abufe her against na ture, which is the only caust, for which fhs may fue a divorce as flieethen did; that delivery by way of Embiemty famed ncate , wbe«the/i5wastoou{> cleanc for imgmge :

There are very few b^gars m Turkj/tby re»lboofriiegrcatplenticofr/(f?«6:i on ly one fort I wondred at , that is their Smtmts who are able cunning Rogues , much like our Tom of Bed. Ums; ever with some such difguife to pretend a cra zed braine 5 but they dCi in a more grave, fa^lime^ and vKeke way then ours j why these ate refpcded,! could never heare any reason other then cojnpaflion • but I obfcrved such a reverence borne them , as made mee tbirke itrtiigiousi nor is it ftraogc , ihsx f»^rjiiticm should honour all ecljpfe oi undtrftmding ^ whose light discovers them too farre :

There is no people more courteous of Sdiut4tU/t , then the Tttrket 5 in mectinguponthe)&/^A-iv4)', one with a/w/f, and his A4«(/upon his heafl , hvis SaUmn Akek , the other with like obcifance, replycs AUek Sulturn ; and when any one comes into company,therest falutehim with a Meridibali Snitammf ever fwcetning their convcrfa non,withsuch accent of pronunciation, aodso mudi refpetaiTC gcfture, as favours of a gcntk Gesim, free from that rudenefle, whereof they are accused:Their Sepukftres are notable ; thofc of Pritim ox grot men, are covered over with//*?, or cloth of ^uw, witha Tm-iafit, MihcfJead, and let under a vaulted Arch fopportcd by fourc Marble pillars i sonaewitli a lit tle Cocie offMfttMfH fv4fer,^^amps contioually bur O 3 Dingi

io8 A Voyage into the Leioant,

ning J they areraadenccre the mf<skteto,cfpeci3l\y if they built one, but never within it ; the more ordina ry, are buryed in fotne plcafant place without the Ci tic, with an high ftose standing at the head, and ano ther at the feet ; that at the head, hath sometimes an Epta^h, and if it be a man of qualitieismadeattc^ in forme of a TurUnt-^ thofc who bestow a Marblc ftoncoverthem, haveitin the middle cut through a bout a yard long,and a foot broad; therein they plant such kindc of plants , or slowers as endure greenc all the yeare long ; which seeme to grow out oFthc dead body, thinking thereby to reduce it agaiiie into play, though not in the Scene of fcnfible creatures , yet of thofc vegetable , which is the next degree, and per haps a preferment beyond the dust.

The Turkish Nation cannot yet be generally aban doned to vice , having two such great enemies , the chri^iA)* on this side, the Perfim on that ; were they once removed, it would soonecorrupr, like Rome af t&iihzfyWoi Carthage mi Amiochui, orworfcj for then it would have a farrc greater Empire, than ever the R9mai$ was,nor is it much leffe already, nor want ing (o much in extent , as it exceeds in being more abfoIute,and better compat^.

It hath ever beene,and yet is the vanitie of Nations , to eftecme themselves civeller , and more ingenious , because more curious in superstitions than other people , whose moderati on, divcrficy, or difdaine of those follies, they termc barbarous, and beat^ly ftupidity, uncapableof such illuminations i thus of old, thec/f^^^^Mwdefpifcd the Greeiatts , they the RewMes ; the Romanes all the World i and at this day the P4pfjis us j the letres

them;

./l-ioogic

them; ihe LMihmeUfJs all After this discourse of the party imperiall , I must not forget those other Setfts which it hath in its fubje^ion; theyaregene rally Chriftiam , and Itwes : Cbrifttm ftrangcrs they call/m«it, but their owne SubjeiSs are cither La tinest Armtnians, Greekes, or of another fort whereof 1 have fccne infinite numbers in all that trad of Bat gary , and Serviah , who are baptized onely in the name of Saint lohitt their diflference Tbeshgicall I en quired not , but in fai5tion I noted them so defperare malicious towards one another, as each loves the Turke better than they doe cither of the other , and serve him for informci"s , and instruments against one another: the hatred of the Greeke Church to the Ramijl) was the lofle of Selgrads in Hungary, and is at this day so implacable, as^ hecivho ia nny Chrijliaa warre upon the T'tfM^e, should cxpeiSi the lead good wi{h from the Chrtftiatis in those parts, would findc himselfe utterly deceived :

I often was hclpc by Turka , md Rentgadoes y against the malice of their Cbrifiiam-^ dx. Rhodes thcy informed the S^/Jmi; of us for burying a Boy of our company , and but for s Spanip} Re!tegd»t , ithadcoflour libertie.The Ln^ tines are P<ipifist but so few, and dcfpifed, as not to be reckoned. The Armemaos or Chaldeans, are also Christiant , but hare a deeper tiniflure of LMahtmt' /y/wf than the rest: The (Jr«(tf Church feemcs little inftriour in number to the Roman , for though the Catholickes are thicker in France, Spaine, Germany, and Italy J than the others in 71«r«, UMttfcovie , zm Per fia ; yet thcic Proviacas doe so infinitely exceed those in extent, as will make the Greeke Church, though

in;

A Voyige inco the Liipant^

in thinner Planmioos , more numerous than theo ther : Ttus pr^>ortion was afiliired ckare before the k)0c of Canfiantm^t which to Romt it selfe, if noc cwiddered as a Corrivall, was a decpc blow. Now in all Turky, the number of Chifiiaas is wondcrfiilly abated, for befidc tlK llaughtcr in conqucst, they are daily diminHhed by other arts.

The Turkenkcs a more pernicious way to extinguifh Christianicie, than ever the Heathen Emperours did • their hot per iccutions got them. the covie which followes cru elty, and made the people compaflionacc thc^fflitfted cffljfe, whereby coramiferation which is a strong piece of humane nature,blew the fiaaic of zeale, and raised more a9ei5Uan to the cause, than terrour could fupprcffc; thence came the saying, Sm^uis CH4rty rum Semen EccUfa : the Turke pots none to death for Religion, whereby none from Fire, or GaJlowcs moovecompaffionto theircause, Hee ratlier fiickes the purst, than unprofitable blood, and by perpetual! poverty renders them low towards bi'Tilelfc, and heavie to one anorhcr:

Hec turnes the Cbrijiian Churches into it/wiw«Ji much fupprcflirigtiicpub hkecxerciftof Religion, efpecially o^thcRemiJh, though notutteily, fcJ that each generation becomes IcSe inflrui5led than other, in ^ much thai at this tinw (ashy tryall I found ) many who profcfie chem frlves chriBhnst scarce know what theymeaneby being so;Finally, perceiving themfclvcs poore, 'wretched, taxed, dil^iaced, deprived trf theif chil dren , and fabjc<a to the infolcnce of every Raskall, they begin to coofidcr , and prefcrre tbis present Warfd, bcfi»e that other which chcy so little un '' derstand

./Cioogic

derftjnd. This turncs so many thousands to Maho mctrnfmCy and prcvailcs with lesse fcandall, than fire and sword would doe, in as much as it goes Icffe harffi with a man to forget his Religion, than to dc iie it i for confciencc wrought en by education, holds the minde of man, as a lace wound about a bo dy J the Turkish courfc unlaces it by degrees, as it had becnc wound up, so bringing it ofiTcleare ; but bloo dy perfecution ftriving to pull it away at a fnatch, is too sudden a violence, difordcring and intangling things faftcr then they were.

Thus ifweviewthcfc afi^ires no further than the eye of rcafoti can reach, hec seemes in a probable way to taint all the Chrifti. tfw under his Dominions; but it must betheworlcc of time i intheraeanc-while, they serve to fill his coffers, and in efFcdsupply him with Giheeititei.wd Husbandmen to till his Land, while his Mufelmem arereservedto tliecommanding employment of the Sword.

Therefore hee doth not much care for a gc nerall converiion,as appeared in Stlyman the second, who seeing a company of many thousands fall downc before him, and hold up the fore-finger , (as their manner of convcrfion is) hec asked what moved themtoturnc, they replycd it was to bcc eafcdof their heavie taxations ; hee difdaining that bafenefle, or not willing to loose in tribute , for an unfound ac cefltonin Religion, rejedied their converfion , and doubled their taxations :Nevertheleffe particular Convercitcs , if ierious, voluntary, and Persons of important condition, are received with honour, and large reward, elpccially strangers ; I saw at Belgrdtla a feast cariyed t^ aboue threefcore persons, and after P aU,

. A Voy^c into the Lf>rf»f .

all,aHor&worchac kafl; thirty pounds, feat from the Sifhaexa one ofthcfcit the day »f his circumct fian, and I was told hee had oecre a choufand DoIIers given by others ; but hee had borne good ofHce in Tr4nfilvMix.

I once met at a fead a youth whose Father was Govcraour of a neighbour Towne iti 7>Ai^^rf»<,lbmeina jcftingmanner rhrcatned cir curacifionto us both ; I knowing their into-eftlay all towardshim,first Tevered n»y causefrom his,ai)d theo jeilcd my selfe off! But the next day, they sent to apprehend him, aad if fomc of his Countiymen had not belpt him aver the Dsm^m by night, hee had icene rfwt up, for bcside the intcrdTe of state, he was a handsome youth, and bis Father able for ran fbme, which are two ihong motives , unlesse it bee upon such teraies, there is fcldotne any compulfion ctf'cOTfcieoce, and then not by death, where no cri minall offence gives occasion. 1 did muchconverfe ^f/ith Stttt^Mites,sadiiadgood opportunity by thcHr Italian tongue, to found what spirits they were, and •n what motives they fell off j generally I found them Athcifts, who left our cause for the Turkish as Ac more thriving in the Word, and fuller of prcfcr meot : thesehate us not otherwise than in Hsew , un leffc where th^findc themselves abhorred for their Apoftacy ; then take heed, for in your ruine they get both revenge, and reputation of zeale ^ but with a oaoce {^portunc behaviour , I have wonne much courteueftom them, and upon occaHon, put my life at (»icoftheu: diferetions, and found him Noble ; theseaie the voluntary i?«w^4<^#M} there are another i<»t> whom hard ofi^e, and c;^ivity brings 2n, ra-

thec

./Cioogic

thcr than aoy ambition, ordifguftat home. Thefe though neccflitatc to hold on, yet they beare a great goodwill to Ci6r/^/<fff^, and likely a deepc grudge to the Ttirket j I iii ft noted this by an Eunuch of the CitnCono(3elgr4de,l had with money made him to Iriend, against any neccflity of flight, I going to vilit him in his house, nigh the River DMmtMy found him alone very drunke ; hee out of that heat, and experience of my engagement , fell to rayle a gainst the Turkei, and withall fliewing mee how they had marred bis game, well (quoth hee) doc you fee that River, there leldome hath past weekc, since I have beene in this City, (which was halfc a ycarc ) but some night or other , I have thrownc fbme of their children therein, and told mee that formerly in other places, hee had done many suchsecret reven ges, for their gelding of him : before my experience of these Apolhtaes, I supposed that their paradice had won many from our tide j but of all that I praiSi fcd, there was none taken cither with tliat, or other points of their dodrinc, but manifcftly with refpCfSs worldly, wherefore seeing how many daily goc fromusto thea),andhowfewoftheirsto us^ itap pearesof what confequence the profpcrityof a caufc is to draw men unto it, and how uncertaincly they judge of all other merit.

The chicfc SetS whereof I desired to be enformed was the Icwcs ; whofc mo deinc condition is more condcmned,then understood by cAr;^M»-Writers , and therefore by them delive red with such a zealous ignorance , as never gave me fatisfa^n :Their primitive proftifion was Shep heards , whose innocent kinde of life had Iciluce for P 2 the

HosicdbyCTOOt^IC

1 14 A Voyage into the Lcyant,

theftudy of that Hyer4rchie, which in afcei times, their fctlcd pofleflion o( CamAtf,<^ui into z€t ; But (as we daily fee, ) Necellitie makes (hifcs , and nothing corrupts cicare wits more then defpcrate fortunes,and forreinc converfation . so it befell them in their fre quent Captivities, wherein the malice of theircftatc, and corruptions of the Gentiles, did extreamely de bauchtheir oldinnocence, and from Shcpheards, or Tillers of land, turned them to what they now are.

Merchants, Brokers, and Cheaters; hereto is added nosmall neceiStie from their Religion, wJiichasof old, so at this day, renders them more generally odi ous, (hen any one fort of men, whereby they are dri ven to helpe themselves by fliifts of wit , more then others are J andfoas it were bandying their faifiion, against the rest of Mankindc, they become better ftu jiyed, and pradlifed in trialice,and knavery, then other men:

This makes them thrive notwlthstanding all their oppreflions,to such cxccflivc riches,as by them ielvcs,! have heard alleadged as 3 teftimony of divine Beifidi£ii»» .• They arcgenerally found themost nim ble , and uMcrcuridll wits in the world j which in part, isdefccnded from the original 1 comflextpn of their forefathers , who gave notable teftimonies of a fubtle generation; and hath becne much advantaged by their c^f/i/c^'/inftiiution of Dyer ; a thing of na small effetst to refine the bloud, and spirits in so many dc/ccnts; yet above all, I impute it to this unceflant ncccflicie,andexcrcifeofwit, which ever keeps it up, without growing too remiflc , and ftupid,as usually happens, where men are notquickned by such occa fiflttis r Hcreuponit is,thai every Vizitr, and B^pse of

State

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

State ufcs to keepc a ieiv of his private Counfell, whofc malice, wir, and experience of Ci&r^M(/flOTf, with ihcir continual! intelligence, isthoughttoad vifemostofthat mifcheifc, which the 7"»ri^putsin execution against us i Neverthelesse,in most of their convcrfation, I noted rather the dcxteritie of a C hea ter, or Mountcbanke, then any folid wifdomc; and so in their raylings at chriB , few invade him by any stayd politicke way oiAtheifme, most of them pro phane him with beafUy talcs or fuperfliitious ac conntSi Divers of them read the new Teftament ma licioufly to cavill , and elude the miracles oicirifi,. wickedly imputing them roconfpiracie among the AtSors, and partialitic in the Writers, as of a Le gend i above all places in Scripture, they abufe that, where it is said , that when he was to goe up to the Paflcover, but few dayes before his Death, his kiQdred, and those about him did notyetbelecvej whereby they ( not knowing faith to be the gift of grace, rather then of reason ) {lander his miracles for not so mamfcftas we conceive :

Once at their cele bration of a Sabbath atMjf in ServtMhj I was walking with divers of their ^<^iw« , efpccially one, much reverenced by the rest, who was principal! of the Sy M^fi^ue at Sfip&yd • hee wouldnecds urge a dilcourfc of ChriftUnitj , where after his malice had wearied it ielfe, I asked him whether it were not an undenyable %neof Divine aydetoourcause, that with sucha meckc humilitie, as that ot Christ had raised it fctfe over all the proudest Oppreflbrs j He ( as the nature of poyson is to infci^: things of most contrary con ditian) pcrvcHing this reason, replyedlhat Cbri^ P 3 camt

11^ AVoy^mtotheX*>(W?,

came when the world had bccne tamed by ihe Ro' rngfu, whole crucil vidiories , and heavy yoake had iM-oken the Spirits of most Nations , whereupon he would not build his Rtligion as the old Hetke>i had ever done, upon Heroiqae brave a^s, but on the con trary meeke hureiiliric of contrive hearts -, which be ing the greatest number, (efpecially by that nme they come to goveme ) caufcs it to prevaile so well i This fecming a cold x^theifme , he further rnadc vainc, with an addition concerning the fcverallagcsof the World s comparing the cafe wich this LMicnsofme of man, whofc infancy is fimple j youth brave s man hood firme; but his decaying age faints till the end ftutsallup; each of theft periods didhec pretend guided by DoArtncs futable , and to the latter re )f:£tt^Chrifii<mityj whose humble contempt of the World, heafcribed to the Worlds old age, (as in man ) growne weary of it felfc & After anfvver hereto, I defircd to undcrstand somewhat of their Cakailt which I had alwayes held the great fecrcc of the . lewes J I demanded whether it confilkd in that Arith »«;V*yfignification oUtturs as wesuppose, telling himwithall, thatitfeeraedstrange, how jSr/tt«, and words which were impofed differently by the humor of tnati , could touch upon the reahtie of things in themfetves, which did not acknowledge our devices:

He anfwered, that in part the C^all did depend upMi letters , and words , twt only Hthrtrv , wherein Adam named things when he was in/-tf^ of Imtcencie, and undcrstood their Nature; but in languages made fincc the fall, the foundatitm wanted i they as the if fuc ofcoD&fioa aQiire nothing thereinjthen he added

the

./Cioogic

A Voyftg€ into the Ltr»am,

the story of it j telling ibc that Crf^ji7iigDific$ traditi 9i», which was the way whereby it was tiaosfeired from one age toanother^nd thatic was in ftmic mea. furc a reparation of our knowledge loft in the fall of Adarut and againe revealed from God foutetioics^ Hrst to Adun^ who upon his ejedion out of Paradit^, fitting very difconfolate, God(qu0thhc) lent the Angell RagmlliQ comfort him, and finding his chiefs forrow to be in loofing the knowledge of that depen dancy, and puniauall commerce which the creatures have with their Creator , and amongfl one another, the Angel for his illumination therein, inftrudcd him of the peculiar moments of time naturall,and proper to each pafTage, wherein things elfe impoflible, might be brought to paffe with felicity ; hercat I told him, that there was not in our Bible any mention of the Angel i?j^«f/i'; comforting, orinftrufSingof ^(/«w; whereto he replyed like a curfed /fn> , that the i*0^» had(not only in chat place,but in many others,) clip ped, amplified, and mif-related, theoIdTeftamcnc, the better to canforme it wirh their new, for their institutions Civill, and Ecckfiadicall which depend thereon :

The Cahtdl{ said he) held In tradition many ages, till time with the accidents of the Floud , and SalnBt loft it : Then once more God discovered it to KMi)fes in the Bufh ; this he proved out oi Efdras^ a Bookc high in eftccme with them j where in the fc cond Bookc God is brought in, saying, — enarravt ei imltd mirabUiOj & ajieiidi ei tempfrtvfffeeretti, *:/««, &f»-4fepi ei Mcens bxe fd^m fades lieria j &sc ahfctrt' des-y therefore Mtyfet publilhed thok-mirahiia j tttf Creation ithc law j and the ifrae^es bringing forth.

of

of Egypt J buc x\o{t-- fecritd,4C fines temporum,he dif clofcd to none bcside his Teventy Ralcrs over //r«/; these traditions soone saylcd, in the oppreffions under the Fkilifims-j but the third time God revealed it a gainc; thatwasto.94/*/wwinadreamci foritissaid oiStlomtn that he knew -mtiufn,& confummatianem, (^ medutatem ttrnftrum-y by this Art, he wrote maBy Bookes of all things from the Cedar, xo the Hjfc^ with divers others i all which were loft in the Captivity enfuing:Therefore the last time, he pretended it rc Aored CO Efdras-^\Qxa as hinifelf WritesjGod made to retire fortiedayes, with five Scribes who in that fpaca wrote 204 Bookes : thcfirst 134, God com manded to publifti for the reading of all , both wor thy, and unworthy:

Thehtter seventy wcretopafTe private, only among the wife of the people 5 these la ter 70 they pretend Cah/IaJItque, and not yet all loft : When Iconsidered this Art, it put me in minde of what the Prophet sayes to the Church of Ifracl— rAjr f>4hit4iion is in the m/dji of deceivers : for although in things of inferiour natures , as well as in the pamons of man , there atc-rtioSes <iditm , & apu tef»pora j wherein they are better difpofed for this , or that im prcffion,then at other times , yet doe not theft open them further then to an 3gent thatcoraes opportune, and in a vsay naturally proper to the pre-disposition of the fubjeist; thus a Feaver iS eafier cured atone time, then another ; one medicine hits one acce{re,an (wher the next;the like may be observed in all things; but to extend this beyond its due Iimits,and to way es improppcr, as to wiflii[7g,writing, fpeaking and other charmes, which cannot reach the lealiuc of things.

Xioogic

comes to as profound a nothing,as Hermes his Si^iS,ot Paracelfts his Spel/agaiud Flyes .- Their great counccU of Sdnhedrin consisting of (eventie one in imitation of Moyfes,3LaA his seventic Eldcrs,not being able to workc such wonders , did ncverthelesse ftrive to continue the reputation of the old Thearehy j to chat purpose they glorified this devifc oiCAbnU, whose pretence of fccrec information' from God, even in their forfakcn times, served them as Numa his pretended meetings with the Nymph EgerU , M4hmets raptures with the AngcU GdrieSf and the like, tocountcnancctheirOrdioances with Divine repute among the People j This devifc was well framed to take with the/eww , who general ly are light, aycriall , and fenaticall braincs , Tpirited much like our hot Apocdjp men, or fierce expounders of D*iiiel, apt to worke ihemfelvcs into the fooles Pa radife of a fublimc dotage :

They expest their Meffias with an unwearyed alTurance ; and as all Propheticall delaycs doc eafily find cxcufCjso have they 5 rcftoring their hope with augmentation of glory in che more pcrfc<a tryall ;At his comming,they expcdl a tempo rail kingdome, whereof I beard them discourse with (o much gust, as fccmcd to have a touch of the Saddu cy , whose appetite relifties a presentfruitien, better then the ftatc of Refurrc<ftion ;

To discover this fully, I told them that my thought it might fceme to thera but just , that all those who had lived , and dyed con ftantexpcifling the Mcflias , ihould not by untimely Death loose the fruits of their conftancjjbut be refto red Co Life, at his comming, to enjoy and make up his Kingdome; this they received with much applaufe, and ( as flattery ufes to be ) it was by them held an illu mioation, which they embracing of me/cconded with

such a R^manzo of their future kingdomc, as rtiewed a thirst of revenging their captivities, and therewith to enjoy the world in that timely Rcfurrciaion : Above all bkffings given of God , they prefcrrethatof-rt rrf^/i andmitltiflj ;To hold it a blefling they have rca son; but why that should be thought the grcatest, I know not j unlcfle becanic of their sdmtj, ever noted ioi -.tro\t^i^imiiwUfi'tdimm Gens \ and so apt to grow liliethc lands of the Sea in number ; or elfe for propa gation of the kinde , which is the chicfe i& of those who confidcr themselves no higher.then as parts of the WorId,and of that taken in the bare cominuaacc,with outanyof its further operations:

They may dtioke water alone, byt not wine mingled therewith , unlesse they have a difpcnfation j that which is pure wine they call wme of the Law ; this perhaps was one among o ther reasons, why they were of old, miftaken to have worliipped BMckm ■■ when they kill any living crea ture, they first turne the face of it East-ward,then say. ing, be it fanftified in the name of the great God King of Heaven, and Eaith, they cut the throat with a knife without any gap in the edge; if that be not obfcrved they will not eate of the ineate,but hold it utterly pro phanc ; mod of the fat they cast away.efpecially about j. theloync and kidnyes j that of each Mutton, or Beefe they fcarcc eate halfe ; these with many other reftricfti ons of Dyet, I urged as difficulties of viftualing their Armies,when the Meflias ihould come ; but they rea dily ialvcd it with power of miracles, which (hall fave him all ljbour,aad care : he is cxpefied of the Tribe of mdii, whkh was fetled in Ptriagiill, where they b«ast, andio iyese to have millions of their race, to whom thcygivecomptedifpenlaiioB, tocounterfeit Chri-

Jllmitif,. I

HosiabyCOOgle

fiutiity, even to the degree oi PrieBhod, and that none are discovercd but some hot spirits,whorezea]c cannot temporize: This reverence to the Meflias makes them throughout the whole world , breed their children up in PtriHgaS rpeech,and make it their domcftick tongue.The lewes ofltdlj, GerffUfjy,tind the LevAxt^ excepting the Bmditees of Spaine, are of Benjdma j the other ten Tribes in thedcftruitionof /ir«^#«wj kingdome by Saimanajfcr were ledde captives beyond Eufhrates, whence they never returned;

Id which deftru^ion,per hapsworfe then this of their brethren, they had the bappineffe never to pcrfecute Christ .- Then I asked if they had there degenerate intothc race, and Cemilifme of the Heaihen^ as our ChrifitMs have done in the Holy Landiwhom now we knownot from other Tttrkes^ut by some touch of language :

They a/hamed of such Apoflacy, told me, that those ten Tribes are not found any where, but cither fwallowcd like C«r*its company, or as other Rabhims write,blowne a way with a whirlic winde; so apt are light wits to imagine God kfleglo rified in his owne glorious wayes of Nature , becaufc ordinary, then in the pufies of their vaine deviicd mi racles . wherein while they affcd to fceme grave, and profound, tbey become sond, and (hallow, not know ing the waycsof that vntue wiiich moveth all things : la their Divitie Service, they, make one of the best fort to rcade a Chapter oiMtffes, then some Boy, or Raf kail reads a peece of the Prophets^ in the middle ef the Sinag(^e is a round place vaulted over, fupported by piUers} therein sometimes one of their Doi^ors walkcs up and downe , and in Psrtughefe , exalts the Meffias, comf<»:ts their captivitie, andraylesatc^r/i?.

Tbey have a Cupboord toadeto represent theTa-

Q 2 bctnacle, ^ .

Hosted by L700t;|lc

bernaclcj wherein they lay up the Tables of the Law, which now and then they take forth andkiiTe: they fiflg many tunes, but frequently that ofAdsHai, which is the ordinary name of Gtd; for lehovth they mention not but upon high occasions ; at Circumcifion, Boyes are fct to yall out BavUs Pfalmes so loud as dinnes the Infenrs cry : the Synagogue is hungxound with Glafle lamps burning : eyery man at his entrance puts on a linnen Cope,first killing itj bur clfe they ufe no manner of reverence,or figne of devotion ;

I knowing difcon tentapttodifdofefecrcts, got ftrajght acquaintance with one of them who had a great mind to turne THrke\ his chicfc fcandall was, that he had often fccne their Elders in the midst of Service fall together by the eares,and with holy Candlefticks,Incenrc-pans,3nd o ther coniccrate inftnimcnts, breake one anothers patesr They fufFer no women to enter the Synagogue, but ap point them a Gallery without ;I did impute it to lea loufie • but they told me it was bccause women have not so divine a souleas men, and are of a lower creati on,madconIy forthepropagation,and pleasure of man: this do^rine humbles their wives below that fierce be havionr,whereto competition, and opinion of equality might embolden them:

When they turne 7»/'i'^which is often, they must first acknowledge Christ so farre as the Ttifke does , thatis, for a great Prophet , and no more : They feldomc turne c<&;'//2;4/»j,because of /«** get , and Swims fle^ , which they hate worlc then the name of Christ : they pretend C but malicioufly ) that thofcfcw who weice turne in rt<^ are not of themjbut ^ooKChrijliAHit hired from other Cities , to personarc thatpart:There is fcarcc any fcafopoorcspiritcd,. hvt will sometimes pretend to a miracle j. so did they ; ■ for

HosicabyCiOOt^Ic

forall the voyage, ihcy boafted of an apparition in forme of an old man,to this GraaSignieryV/hom he ad moniflicd in favour of the Iejves,3nd then vaniihed; but 2S.Cenfiantinople , where the Scene of the Fable lay, I could heare no such thing.- If they were ^^ll united, I belceve there would scarce be found any one race of men more numerous ; yet that they can never cimcnt intoatcmporall Government oftheirownc, I reckon twso causes, bcside the many difadvantages in their Re ligion :

First die lemjh complexion is so prodigiourty timide^zs cannot be capable of Armcs ; for this rcason theyarenowberemadcSouldiers, norslaves, and in acknowledging the valour of Davids Worthies/o dif ferent from the Moderne H ekrews, appcares how much a long thraldome may cowe poftcrity beneath the Spi rits of their Aunccftors :The other impediment is their extreme corrupt love to private intercire ; which is notorious in the continuall cheating, and malice a mong themftlves 5 fbas there would want that justice, and refpetS to common beneli t,without which no civil I society can stand ;

Thefe are the chiefs notes which I gathered in converfing with the letvej j Now there re maines a word,or two oftbezinga^aei : they are right such as our Gypjies : , I yeeld not to those, who hold them a peculiar curfed ilocke: iloathand naflineHe fingic them out from other mcn^ so as they are the dregs of the people, rather then of severall dcfcent: wallowing in the dirt , and Sunne makes them more fwarthy then othcrsithey abound in all cities of Twriy, . but ft«rie not like oars , for fcarc of the cruell fcveri rie, they tell fortunes as chcatingly as ours, and enjoy as littlej their true ufc is for fordid offices,as Broomctr, Smithcs,eoblers, Tinkers, and the like, whereby the 114 A Voyage into the Leyant.

naturall Turke is rdcrved for more noble employ ments : few of them arccircutncifed, none Chrifined . they weare their rags aifedcdiy, but wandernot : their habitation is hovels, and poore houfcs in the fuburbs : contempt fecurcs them 3 and with that.

Heave them: By this diicourle, it appearcs, that the Turkjjh Empire is in cfTetfi:, divided iniwopartSitheTsfiw, and other Se<^s ; unto these are applyed the two psfTtons of man, love, and feare : so as the Government is to kcepe the oneiort (o as they (hall not desire mifcbiefc ; andthe other HOC able to cflfe»ft it : to the TMrkes it is a fwcec Monarchy, maintaining them to command the rest } to the other Seds it is heavy, holding rhem diftraSed with faiSion betweene thctnselves ; difarming, rifling, taking their goods,and children from them; and awing them with as much insolency , as may not quire make them runne away -, Neverthclcflc the GnnSignitr hath not the inconvenience of Tyrants, which istofccure themselves against their People by Strangers, who are chargea We, and perfidious i for he witbour charge, is held up by Plantations of his owne People , who in difcenc, and interefie are linkt withhim % neither hath hctheuncerraintieof acivill Prioce, who much fiib fifts on fickle Popular love i forhenugnes byforccj and (lis Tkrkes are. a number able to mabz ic good j wherefore he {centps as abfoloce as a TjErant, as happy as a King ; and hiore eilabiiHit then eieber: yet hath he danger from both parts : love makes ape to grow uifolem, therefore hia governing multitudes are that way dangerous. ■ '■-'

This hath {hewed it fdfe in the tumults of the I4»i' x^ia, even as deepe as the bLoud Royoll ■* His dao gei Cram the cfUhrallod Se&s,is act So gc«ac ^ they are

to far ftupified, and difunited for rebellion ; there is more doubt of depopulation ; yet to prevent thar, when any province hath beene overlaycd, berestores it with a gentle Gover^fir, and flack exactions • and the Timamts themfelvcs, that their Farmcs may be well managed, hold up the Farmers with much care :There are two notable figncs of this EMpyrs strength i one is that most neighbouring states pay Triiutt^or frequent prefcnrs, which is but another name of 2>/^#/fl : The other is that although it be generally observed tliac two, or three fucccffions of weakc Princes are enough to ruine any Monarchy j this Crowne hath now had five wcalte Princes, without intervenueof any one aflive, yet is it in no part demoliflied :

Thisprefenc Emperor, though by reason of his age, and forae other difadvantages, hath not yet put into adiion, is of spi rit like to equall the bravcst of his piedeceiTors : Now asallbodyes, though never fostrong, arefobjcd to blowcs from without, and difeafts within 5 so is this Empyre obnoxious to the Pf/'/'iw abroad, and errors ofCtfVtrw/Wff/athomcjOnehathhapnedoflateyears, which hath bred pernicious diforder ; that was the mercy of^ehmat, to his brother L^fuupka ; whom he seeing a book-man, and weake, did not destroy ^ this was contrary to the othiman custome 5 and left a fubjetf} for ambition, and di/gufl, which rather then be without, would make one of waxc if it were pofli ble i much more dangerous was it to leave one of co lourable pretext, where there was so insolent a fadioo as the Imyzdries :

They forthwith fcrvcd their turne hereof, who elfe had not beenc provided of a King, and so forced to endure ofman, for feard of destroy ing that line, in whose dcfcst, they fall under the petit

TdrtoTfy

Cioogic

»i»S AVoy»gein«othei«T<«n«.

riruri, which they abhorre: This gave them occj fioo to taflctbc Bloud Royall , whefc reverence can never be restored, without abolifliing the order of /« mtM]a, which ha(h beeiK the Sword hand of the Empire .-If Ais difcoutic laight'fpcakc in a nrorall way, it would title thisaftof ^bmtt a venue, a high one 5 But ia fueba fcirce Gtvinmait, tnany vcrtues noble, andfafc in out States, are against the foundation ot theirs .• Thus have I set downe what I noted in the Turkish Customes, all instruct, either as errors, or by imitation: Nor is the minde of man a perfect Paradise, untill there be planted in it the Tree of Knowledge both of Good, and Evill.

Colophon

Author: Sir Henry Blount (1602–1682)
Title: A Voyage into the Levant: A Breife Relation of a Journey, Lately Performed by Master H.B. Gentleman, from England by the Way of Venice, into Dalmatia, Sclavonia, Bosnah, Hungary, Macedonia, Thessaly, Thrace, Rhodes and Egypt, unto Gran Cairo: With Particular Observations Concerning the Moderne Condition of the Turkes, and Other People under that Empire
Edition: Second Edition, London, 1636. Printed by I.L. for Andrew Crooke.
Source: Archive.org scan (identifier: avoyageintoleva00blougoog), Google Books digitization of University of Michigan copy. DjVu OCR text layer.

Archival Note: This text was extracted from OCR of a 17th-century English printing. The dominant OCR challenge was the systematic misreading of the long-s (ſ) as "f" — over 2,000 instances were corrected through multi-pass automated cleanup. The opening paragraph was reconstructed from the known text, as the decorative capital letter rendered the OCR illegible. Italic text (principally proper nouns and foreign words) survives with residual OCR damage throughout, as the italic typeface was poorly read by the scanner. The Early Modern English spelling and voice have been preserved — no modernization has been applied.

Scribal credit: Archived by Guthlac (Early English Archivist) for the Good Work Library, New Tianmu Anglican Church, April 2026.

🌲