by Captain William Dampier

A New Voyage Round the World (1697) is the most influential travel book in the English language. William Dampier — pirate, privateer, naturalist, hydrographer — spent twelve years circumnavigating the globe, keeping a journal through shipwrecks, mutinies, and encounters with peoples no European had described. The result was this book: a masterpiece of plain-spoken observation that sparked the English-speaking world's age of exploration.

Dampier was the first Englishman to set foot on Australia. His descriptions of wind patterns, ocean currents, plants, and animals were so precise that Alexander von Humboldt called him a scientific pioneer. Daniel Defoe drew Robinson Crusoe from Dampier's account of Alexander Selkirk's marooning. Jonathan Swift parodied his style in Gulliver's Travels. And when the young Charles Darwin sailed on the Beagle, Dampier's Voyage was in the ship's library.

Yet Dampier himself was no scholar. He apologises in his Preface for his lack of "politeness" and explains that he writes "for my countrymen" in plain language. The book's power is its directness: a working seaman describing what he saw, tasted, smelled, and survived, without literary pretension. His observations of the Moskito Indians, the breadfruit of Guam, the fauna of the Galapagos, and the coasts of New Holland (Australia) remain primary sources three centuries later.

Presented here from the seventh edition (1729) as reprinted in the Argonaut Press edition (London, 1927), edited by N. M. Penzer, with introduction by Sir Albert Gray. This is the standard corrected text.

Dedication

To the Right Honourable
Charles Montagu, Esquire;
President of the Royal Society,
One of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury, etc.

SIR,

May it please you to pardon the boldness of a stranger to your
person, if upon the encouragement of common fame, he presumes so
much upon your candour, as to lay before you this account of his
travels. As the scene of them is not only remote, but for the
most part little frequented also, so there may be some things in
them new even to you; and some, possibly, not altogether unuseful
to the public: and that just veneration which the world pays, as
to your general worth, so especially to that zeal for the
advancement of knowledge, and the interest of your country, which
you express upon all occasions, gives you a particular right to
whatever may any way tend to the promoting these interests, as an
offering due to your merit. I have not so much of the vanity of a
traveller as to be fond of telling stories, especially of this
kind; nor can I think this plain piece of mine deserves a place
among your more curious collections: much less have I the
arrogance to use your name by way of patronage for the too
obvious faults, both of the author and the work. Yet dare I avow,
according to my narrow sphere and poor abilities, a hearty zeal
for the promoting of useful knowledge, and of anything that may
never so remotely tend to my country's advantage: and I must own
an ambition of transmitting to the public through your hands
these essays I have made toward those great ends, of which you
are so deservedly esteemed the patron. This has been my design in
this publication, being desirous to bring in my gleanings here
and there in remote regions to that general magazine of the
knowledge of foreign parts, which the Royal Society thought you
most worthy the custody of, when they chose you for their
President: and if in perusing these papers your goodness shall so
far distinguish the experience of the author from his faults as
to judge him capable of serving his country, either immediately,
or by serving you, he will endeavour by some real proofs to show
himself,

SIR,

Your Most Faithful,

Devoted, Humble Servant,

W. Dampier.

Preface

Before the reader proceed any further in the perusal of this
work I must bespeak a little of his patience here to take along
with him this short account of it. It is composed of a mixed
relation of places and actions in the same order of time in which
they occurred: for which end I kept a journal of every day's
observations.

In the description of places, their product, etc., I have
endeavoured to give what satisfaction I could to my countrymen;
though possibly to the describing several things that may have
been much better accounted for by others: choosing to be more
particular than might be needful, with respect to the intelligent
reader, rather than to omit what I thought might tend to the
information of persons no less sensible and inquisitive, though
not so learned or experienced. For which reason my chief care has
been to be as particular as was consistent with my intended
brevity in setting down such observables as I met with. Nor have
I given myself any great trouble since my return to compare my
discoveries with those of others: the rather because, should it
so happen that I have described some places or things which
others have done before me, yet in different accounts, even of
the same things, it can hardly be but there will be some new
light afforded by each of them. But after all, considering that
the main of this voyage has its scene laid in long tracts of the
remoter parts both of the East and West Indies, some of which
very seldom visited by Englishmen, and others as rarely by any
Europeans, I may without vanity encourage the reader to expect
many things wholly new to him, and many others more fully
described than he may have seen elsewhere; for which not only in
this voyage, though itself of many years continuance, but also
several former long and distant voyages have qualified me.

As for the actions of the company among whom I made the
greatest part of this voyage, a thread of which I have carried on
through it, it is not to divert the reader with them that I
mention them, much less that I take any pleasure in relating
them: but for method's sake, and for the reader's satisfaction;
who could not so well acquiesce in my description of places,
etc., without knowing the particular traverses I made among them;
nor in these, without an account of the concomitant
circumstances: besides, that I would not prejudice the truth and
sincerity of my relation, though by omissions only. And as for
the traverses themselves, they make for the reader's advantage,
how little soever for mine; since thereby I have been the better
enabled to gratify his curiosity; as one who rambles about a
country can give usually a better account of it than a carrier
who jogs on to his inn without ever going out of his road.

As to my style, it cannot be expected that a seaman should
affect politeness; for were I able to do it, yet I think I should
be little solicitous about it in a work of this nature. I have
frequently indeed divested myself of sea-phrases to gratify the
land reader; for which the seamen will hardly forgive me: and
yet, possibly, I shall not seem complaisant enough to the other;
because I still retain the use of so many sea-terms. I confess I
have not been at all scrupulous in this matter, either as to the
one or the other of these; for I am persuaded that, if what I say
be intelligible, it matters not greatly in what words it is
expressed.

For the same reason I have not been curious as to the spelling
of the names of places, plants, fruits, animals, etc., which in
any of these remoter parts are given at the pleasure of
travellers, and vary according to their different humours:
neither have I confined myself to such names as are given by
learned authors, or so much as enquired after many of them. I
write for my countrymen; and have therefore, for the most part,
used such names as are familiar to our English seamen, and those
of our colonies abroad, yet without neglecting others that
occurred. As it might suffice me to have given such names and
descriptions as I could I shall leave to those of more leisure
and opportunity the trouble of comparing these with those which
other authors have assigned.

The reader will find as he goes along some references to an
appendix which I once designed to this book; as, to a chapter
about the winds in different parts of the world; to a description
of the Bay of Campeachy in the West Indies, where I lived long in
a former voyage; and to a particular chorographical description
of all the South Sea coast of America, partly from a Spanish
manuscript, and partly from my own and other travellers'
observations, besides those contained in this book. But such an
appendix would have swelled it too unreasonably: and therefore I
chose rather to publish it hereafter by itself, as opportunity
shall serve. And the same must be said also as to a particular
voyage from Achin in the isle of Sumatra, to Tonquin, Malacca,
etc., which should have been inserted as part of this general
one; but it would have been too long, and therefore, omitting it
for the present, I have carried on this, next way from Sumatra to
England; and so made the tour of the world correspondent to the
title.

For the better apprehending the course of the voyage and the
situation of the places mentioned in it I have caused several
maps to be engraven, and some particular charts of my own
composure. Among them there is in the map of the American
Isthmus, a new scheme of the adjoining Bay of Panama and its
islands, which to some may seem superfluous after that which Mr.
Ringrose has published in the History of the Buccaneers; and
which he offers as a very exact chart. I must needs disagree with
him in that, and doubt not but this which I here publish will be
found more agreeable to that bay, by one who shall have
opportunity to examine it; for it is a contraction of a larger
map which I took from several stations in the bay itself. The
reader may judge how well I was able to do it by my several
traverses about it, mentioned in this book; those, particularly,
which are described in the 7th chapter, which I have caused to be
marked out with a pricked line; as the course of my voyage is
generally in all the maps, for the reader's more easy tracing
it.

I have nothing more to add, but that there are here and there
some mistakes made as to expression and the like, which will need
a favourable correction as they occur upon reading. For instance,
the log of wood lying out at some distance from sides of the
boats described at Guam, and parallel to their keel, which for
distinction's sake I have called the little boat, might more
clearly and properly have been called the side log, or by some
such name; for though fashioned at the bottom and ends boatwise,
yet is not hollow at top, but solid throughout. In other places
also I may not have expressed myself so fully as I ought: but any
considerable omission that I shall recollect or be informed of I
shall endeavour to make up in those accounts I have yet to
publish; and for any faults I leave the reader to the joint use
of his judgment and candour.

Introduction

The Author's Departure from England, and Arrival in Jamaica.

I first set out of England on this voyage at the beginning of
the year 1679, in the Loyal Merchant of London, bound for
Jamaica, Captain Knapman Commander. I went a passenger, designing
when I came thither to go from thence to the Bay of Campeachy in
the Gulf of Mexico, to cut log-wood: where in a former voyage I
had spent about three years in that employ; and so was well
acquainted with the place and the work.

We sailed with a prosperous gale without any impediment or
remarkable passage in our voyage: unless that when we came in
sight of the island Hispaniola, and were coasting along on the
south side of it by the little isles of Vacca, or Ash, I observed
Captain Knapman was more vigilant than ordinary, keeping at a
good distance off shore, for fear of coming too near those small
low islands; as he did once, in a voyage from England, about the
year 1673, losing his ship there, by the carelessness of his
mates. But we succeeded better; and arrived safe at Port Royal in
Jamaica some time in April 1679, and went immediately ashore.

I had brought some goods with me from England which I intended
to sell here, and stock myself with rum and sugar, saws, axes,
hats, stockings, shoes, and such other commodities, as I knew
would sell among the Campeachy log-wood-cutters. Accordingly I
sold my English cargo at Port Royal; but upon some maturer
considerations of my intended voyage to Campeachy I changed my
thoughts of that design, and continued at Jamaica all that year
in expectation of some other business.

I shall not trouble the reader with my observations at that
isle, so well known to Englishmen; nor with the particulars of my
own affairs during my stay there. But in short, having there made
a purchase of a small estate in Dorsetshire, near my native
country of Somerset, of one whose title to it I was well assured
of, I was just embarking myself for England, about Christmas
1679, when one Mr. Hobby invited me to go first a short trading
voyage to the country of the Moskitos, of whom I shall speak in
my first chapter. I was willing to get up some money before my
return, having laid out what I had at Jamaica; so I sent the
writing of my new purchase along with the same friends whom I
should have accompanied to England, and went on board Mr.
Hobby.

Soon after our setting out we came to an anchor again in
Negril Bay, at the west end of Jamaica; but finding there Captain
Coxon, Sawkins, Sharp, and other privateers, Mr. Hobby's men all
left him to go with them upon an expedition they had contrived,
leaving not one with him beside myself; and being thus left
alone, after three or four days' stay with Mr. Hobby I was the
more easily persuaded to go with them too.

His First Going Over The Isthmus Of America Into The South

It was shortly after Christmas 1679 when we set out. The first
expedition was to Portobello; which being accomplished it was
resolved to march by land over the Isthmus of Darien upon some
new adventures in the South Seas. Accordingly on the 5th of April
1680 we went ashore on the Isthmus, near Golden Island, one of
the Samballoes, to the number of between three and four hundred
men, carrying with us such provisions as were necessary, and toys
wherewith to gratify the wild Indians through whose country we
were to pass. In about nine days' march we arrived at Santa Maria
and took it, and after a stay there of about three days we went
on to the South Sea coast, and there embarked ourselves in such
canoes and periagos as our Indian friends furnished us withal. We
were in sight of Panama by the 23rd of April, and having in vain
attempted Puebla Nova, before which Sawkins, then commander in
chief, and others, were killed, we made some stay at the
neighbouring isles of Quibo.

His Coasting Peru and Chile, and Back Again, to His Parting with Captain Sharp near the Isle of Plata, in Order to Return Overland.
With Captain Sharp Near The Isle Of Plata, In Order To Return
OVERLAND.

Here we resolved to change our course and stand away to the
southward for the coast of Peru. Accordingly we left the keys or
isles of Quibo the 6th of June, and spent the rest of the year in
that southern course; for, touching at the isles of Gorgona and
Plata, we came to Ylo, a small town on the coast of Peru, and
took it. This was in October, and in November we went thence to
Coquimbo on the same coast, and about Christmas were got as far
as the isle of Juan Fernandez, which was the farthest of our
course to the southward.

After Christmas we went back again to the northward, having a
design upon Arica, a strong town advantageously situated in the
hollow of the elbow, or bending, of the Peruvian coast. But being
there repulsed with great loss, we continued our course
northward, till by the middle of April we were come in sight of
the isle of Plata, a little to the southward of the Equinoctial
Line.

I have related this part of my voyage thus summarily and
concisely, as well because the world has accounts of it already,
in the relations that Mr. Ringrose and others have given of
Captain Sharp's expedition, who was made chief commander upon
Sawkins' being killed; as also because in the prosecution of this
voyage I shall come to speak of these parts again, upon occasion
of my going the second time into the South Seas: and shall there
describe at large the places both of the North and South America
as they occurred to me. And for this reason, that I might avoid
needless repetitions, and hasten to such particulars as the
public has hitherto had no account of, I have chosen to comprise
the relation of my voyage hitherto in this short compass, and
place it as an Introduction before the rest, that the reader may
the better perceive where I mean to begin to be particular; for
there I have placed the title of my first chapter.

All therefore that I have to add to the Introduction is this;
that, while we lay at the isle of Juan Fernandez, Captain Sharp
was, by general consent, displaced from being commander; the
company being not satisfied either with his courage or behaviour.
In his stead Captain Watling was advanced: but, he being killed
shortly after before Arica, we were without a commander during
all the rest of our return towards Plata. Now Watling being
killed, a great number of the meaner sort began to be as earnest
for choosing Captain Sharp again into the vacancy as before they
had been as forward as any to turn him out: and on the other side
the abler and more experienced men, being altogether dissatisfied
with Sharp's former conduct, would by no means consent to have
him chosen. In short, by that time we were come in sight of the
island Plata, the difference between the contending parties was
grown so high that they resolved to part companies; having first
made an agreement that, which party soever should upon polling
appear to have the majority, they should keep the ship: and the
other should content themselves with the launch, or longboat, and
canoes, and return back over the Isthmus, or go to seek their
fortune other-ways, as they would.

Accordingly we put it to the vote; and, upon dividing, Captain
Sharp's party carried it. I, who had never been pleased with his
management, though I had hitherto kept my mind to myself, now
declared myself on the side of those that were out-voted; and,
according to our agreement, we took our shares of such
necessaries as were fit to carry overland with us (for that was
our resolution) and so prepared for our departure.

Chapter I

An Account of the Author's Return out of the South Seas, to His Landing near Cape St. Lawrence, in the Isthmus of Darien: with an Occasional Description of the Moskito Indians.

April the 17th 1681, about ten o'clock in the morning, being
12 leagues north-west from the island Plata, we left Captain
Sharp and those who were willing to go with him in the ship and
embarked into our launch and canoes, designing for the river of
Santa Maria, in the Gulf of St. Michael, which is about 200
leagues from the isle of Plata. We were in number 44 white men
who bore arms, a Spanish Indian who bore arms also; and two
Moskito Indians who always bear arms amongst the privateers and
are much valued by them for striking fish, and turtle or
tortoise, and manatee or sea-cow; and five slaves taken in the
South Seas, who fell to our share.

The craft which carried us was a launch, or longboat, one
canoe, and another canoe which had been sawn asunder in the
middle in order to have made bumkins, or vessels for carrying
water, if we had not separated from our ship. This we joined
together again and made it tight; providing sails to help us
along: and for 3 days before we parted we sifted so much flower
as we could well carry, and rubbed up 20 or 30 pound of chocolate
with sugar to sweeten it; these things and a kettle the slaves
carried also on their backs after we landed. And, because there
were some who designed to go with us that we knew were not well
able to march, we gave out that if any man faltered in the
journey overland he must expect to be shot to death; for we knew
that the Spaniards would soon be after us, and one man falling
into their hands might be the ruin of us all by giving an account
of our strength and condition; yet this would not deter them from
going with us. We had but little wind when we parted from the
ship; but before 12 o'clock the sea-breeze came in strong, which
was like to founder us before we got in with the shore; for our
security therefore we cut up an old dry hide that we brought with
us, and barricaded the launch all round with it to keep the water
out. About 10 o'clock at night we got in about 7 leagues to
windward of Cape Passao under the Line, and then it proved calm;
and we lay and drove all night, being fatigued the preceding day.
The 18th day we had little wind till the afternoon; and then we
made sail, standing along the shore to the northward, having the
wind at south-south-west and fair weather.

At 7 o'clock we came abreast of Cape Passao and found a small
bark at an anchor in a small bay to leeward of the cape, which we
took, our own boats being too small to transport us. We took her
just under the Equinoctial Line, she was not only a help to us,
but in taking her we were safe from being described: we did not
design to have meddled with any when we parted with our consorts,
nor to have seen any if we could have helped it. The bark came
from Gallo laden with timber, and was bound for Guayaquil.

The 19th day in the morning we came to an anchor about 12
leagues to the southward of Cape San Francisco to put our new
bark into a better trim. In 3 or 4 hours time we finished our
business, and came to sail again, and steered along the coast
with the wind at south-south-west, intending to touch at
Gorgona.

Being to the northward of Cape San Francisco we met with very
wet weather; but the wind continuing we arrived at Gorgona the
24th day in the morning, before it was light; we were afraid to
approach it in the daytime for fear the Spaniards should lie
there for us, it being the place where we careened lately, and
there they might expect us.

When we came ashore we found the Spaniards had been there to
seek after us, by a house they had built, which would entertain
100 men, and by a great cross before the doors. This was token
enough that the Spaniards did expect us this day again; therefore
we examined our prisoners if they knew anything of it, who
confessed they had heard of a periago (or large canoe) that rowed
with 14 oars, which was kept in a river on the Main, and once in
2 or three days came over to Gorgona purposely to see for us; and
that having discovered us, she was to make all speed to Panama
with the news; where they had three ships ready to send after
us.

We lay here all the day, and scrubbed our new bark, that if
ever we should be chased we might the better escape: we filled
our water and in the evening went from thence, having the wind at
south-west a brisk gale.

The 25th day we had much wind and rain, and we lost the canoe
that had been cut and was joined together; we would have kept all
our canoes to carry us up the river, the bark not being so
convenient.

The 27th day we went from thence with a moderate gale of wind
at south-west. In the afternoon we had excessive showers of
rain.

The 28th day was very wet all the morning; betwixt 10 and 11
it cleared up and we saw two great ships about a league and a
half to the westward of us, we being then two leagues from the
shore, and about 10 leagues to the southward of point Garrachina.
These ships had been cruising between Gorgona and the Gulf 6
months; but whether our prisoners did know it I cannot tell.

We presently furled our sails and rowed in close under the
shore, knowing that they were cruisers; for if they had been
bound to Panama this wind would have carried them thither; and no
ships bound from Panama come on this side of the bay, but keep
the north side of the bay till as far as the keys of Quibo to the
westward; and then if they are bound to the southward they stand
over and may fetch Gallo, or betwixt it and Cape San
Francisco.

The glare did not continue long before it rained again, and
kept us from the sight of each other: but if they had seen and
chased us we were resolved to run our bark and canoes ashore, and
take ourselves to the mountains and travel overland; for we knew
that the Indians which lived in these parts never had any
commerce with the Spaniards; so we might have had a chance for
our lives.

The 29th day at 9 o'clock in the morning we came to an anchor
at Point Garrachina, about 7 leagues from the Gulf of St.
Michael, which was the place where we first came into the South
Seas, and the way by which we designed to return.

Here we lay all the day, and went ashore and dried our
clothes, cleaned our guns, dried our ammunition, and fixed
ourselves against our enemies, if we should be attacked; for we
did expect to find some opposition at landing: we likewise kept a
good lookout all the day, for fear of those two ships that we saw
the day before.

The 30th day in the morning at 8 o'clock we came into the Gulf
of St. Michael's mouth; for we put from Point Garrachina in the
evening, designing to have reached the islands in the gulf before
day; that we might the better work our escape from our enemies,
if we should find any of them waiting to stop our passage.

About 9 o'clock we came to an anchor a mile without a large
island, which lies 4 miles from the mouth of the river; we had
other small islands without us, and might have gone up into the
river, having a strong tide of flood, but would not adventure
farther till we had looked well about us.

We immediately sent a canoe ashore on the island, where we saw
(what we always feared) a ship at the mouth of the river, lying
close by the shore, and a large tent by it, by which we found it
would be a hard task for us to escape them.

When the canoe came aboard with this news some of our men were
a little disheartened; but it was no more than I ever
expected.

Our care was now to get safe overland, seeing we could not
land here according to our desire: therefore before the tide of
flood was spent we manned our canoe and rowed again to the island
to see if the enemy was yet in motion. When we came ashore we
dispersed ourselves all over the island to prevent our enemies
from coming any way to view us; and presently after high-water we
saw a small canoe coming over from the ship to the island that we
were on; which made us all get into our canoe and wait their
coming; and we lay close till they came within pistol-shot of us,
and then, being ready, we started out and took them. There were
in her one white man and two Indians; who being examined told us
that the ship which we saw at the river's mouth had lain there
six months, guarding the river, waiting for our coming; that she
had 12 guns and 150 seamen and soldiers: that the seamen all lay
aboard, but the soldiers lay ashore in their tents; that there
were 300 men at the mines, who had all small arms, and would be
aboard in two tides' time. They likewise told us that there were
two ships cruising in the bay between this place and Gorgona; the
biggest had 20 guns and 200 men, the other 10 guns and 150 men:
besides all this they told us that the Indians on this side the
country were our enemies; which was the worse news of all.
However we presently brought these prisoners aboard and got under
sail, turning out with the tide of ebb, for it was not convenient
to stay longer there.

We did not long consider what to do; but intended to land that
night or the next day betimes; for we did not question but we
should either get a good commerce with the Indians by such toys
as we had purposely brought with us, or else force our way
through their country in spite of all their opposition; and we
did not fear what these Spaniards could do against us in case
they should land and come after us. We had a strong southerly
wind which blew right in; and, the tide of ebb being far spent,
we could not turn out.

I persuaded them to run into the river of Congo, which is a
large river about three leagues from the island where we lay;
which with a southerly wind we could have done: and, when we were
got so high as the tide flows, then we might have landed. But all
the arguments I could use were not of force sufficient to
convince them that there was a large river so near us, but they
would land somewhere, they neither did know how, where, nor
when.

When we had rowed and towed against the wind all night we just
got about Cape San Lorenzo in the morning; and sailed about 4
miles farther to the westward, and run into a small creek within
two keys, or little islands, and rowed up to the head of the
creek, being about a mile up, and there we landed May 1 1681.

We got out all our provision and clothes and then sunk our
vessel.

While we were landing and fixing our snap-sacks to march our
Moskito Indians struck a plentiful dish of fish, which we
immediately dressed, and therewith satisfied our hunger.

Having made mention of the Moskito Indians it may not be amiss
to conclude this chapter with a short account of them. They are
tall, well made, raw-boned, lusty, strong, and nimble of foot,
long-visaged, lank black hair, look stern, hard favoured, and of
a dark copper-colour complexion. They are but a small nation or
family, and not 100 men of them in number, inhabiting on the Main
on the north side, near Cape Gracias a Dios; between Cape
Honduras and Nicaragua. They are very ingenious at throwing the
lance, fishgig, harpoon, or any manner of dart, being bred to it
from their infancy; for the children, imitating their parents,
never go abroad without a lance in their hands, which they throw
at any object, till use has made them masters of the art. Then
they learn to put by a lance, arrow, or dart: the manner is thus.
Two boys stand at a small distance, and dart a blunt stick at one
another; each of them holding a small stick in his right hand,
with which he strikes away that which was darted at him. As they
grow in years they become more dexterous and courageous, and then
they will stand a fair mark to anyone that will shoot arrows at
them; which they will put by with a very small stick, no bigger
than the rod of a fowling-piece; and when they are grown to be
men they will guard themselves from arrows, though they come very
thick at them, provided two do not happen to come at once. They
have extraordinary good eyes, and will descry a sail at sea
farther, and see anything better, than we. Their chiefest
employment in their own country is to strike fish, turtle, or
manatee, the manner of which I describe elsewhere, Chapter 3. For
this they are esteemed and coveted by all privateers; for one or
two of them in a ship will maintain 100 men: so that when we
careen our ships we choose commonly such places where there is
plenty of turtle or manatee for these Moskito men to strike: and
it is very rare to find privateers destitute of one or more of
them when the commander or most of the men are English; but they
do not love the French, and the Spaniards they hate mortally.
When they come among privateers, they get the use of guns, and
prove very good marksmen: they behave themselves very bold in
fight, and never seem to flinch nor hang back; for they think
that the white men with whom they are know better than they do
when it is best to fight, and, let the disadvantage of their
party be never so great, they will never yield nor give back
while any of their party stand. I could never perceive any
religion nor any ceremonies or superstitious observations among
them, being ready to imitate us in whatsoever they saw us do at
any time. Only they seem to fear the devil, whom they call
Wallesaw; and they say he often appears to some among them, whom
our men commonly call their priest, when they desire to speak
with him on urgent business; but the rest know not anything of
him, nor how he appears, otherwise than as these priests tell
them. Yet they all say they must not anger him, for then he will
beat them, and that sometimes he carries away these their
priests. Thus much I have heard from some of them who speak good
English.

They marry but one wife, with whom they live till death
separates them. At their first coming together the man makes a
very small plantation, for there is land enough, and they may
choose what spot they please. They delight to settle near the
sea, or by some river, for the sake of striking fish, their
beloved employment.

For within land there are other Indians, with whom they are
always at war. After the man has cleared a spot of land, and has
planted it, he seldom minds it afterwards, but leaves the
managing of it to his wife, and he goes out a-striking. Sometimes
he seeks only for fish, at other times for turtle, or manatee,
and whatever he gets he brings home to his wife, and never stirs
out to seek for more till it is all eaten. When hunger begins to
bite he either takes his canoe and seeks for more game at sea or
walks out into the woods and hunts about for peccary, warree,
each a sort of wild hogs or deer; and seldom returns
empty-handed, nor seeks for any more so long as any of it lasts.
Their plantations are so small that they cannot subsist with what
they produce: for their largest plantations have not above 20 or
30 plantain-trees, a bed of yams and potatoes, a bush of Indian
pepper, and a small spot of pineapples; which last fruit as a
main thing they delight in; for with these they make a sort of
drink which our men call pine-drink, much esteemed by those
Moskitos, and to which they invite each other to be merry,
providing fish and flesh also. Whoever of them makes of this
liquor treats his neighbours, making a little canoe full at a
time, and so enough to make them all drunk; and it is seldom that
such feasts are made but the party that makes them has some
design either to be revenged for some injury done him, or to
debate of such differences as have happened between him and his
neighbours, and to examine into the truth of such matters. Yet
before they are warmed with drink they never speak one word of
their grievances: and the women, who commonly know their
husband's designs, prevent them from doing any injury to each
other by hiding their lances, harpoons, bows and arrows, or any
other weapon that they have.

The Moskitos are in general very civil and kind to the
English, of whom they receive a great deal of respect, both when
they are aboard their ships, and also ashore, either in Jamaica,
or elsewhere, whither they often come with the seamen. We always
humour them, letting them go any whither as they will, and return
to their country in any vessel bound that way, if they please.
They will have the management of themselves in their striking,
and will go in their own little canoe, which our men could not go
in without danger of oversetting: nor will they then let any
white man come in their canoe, but will go a-striking in it just
as they please: all which we allow them. For should we cross
them, though they should see shoals of fish, or turtle, or the
like, they will purposely strike their harpoons and turtle-irons
aside, or so glance them as to kill nothing. They have no form of
government among them, but acknowledge the King of England for
their sovereign. They learn our language, and take the governor
of Jamaica to be one of the greatest princes in the world.

While they are among the English they wear good clothes, and
take delight to go neat and tight; but when they return again to
their own country they put by all their clothes, and go after
their own country fashion, wearing only a small piece of linen
tied about their waists, hanging down to their knees.

Chapter II

The Author's Land Journey from the South to the North Sea, over the Terra Firma, or Isthmus of Darien.

Being landed May the 1st, we began our march about 3 o'clock
in the afternoon, directing our course by our pocket compasses
north-east and, having gone about 2 miles, we came to the foot of
a hill where we built small huts and lay all night; having
excessive rains till 12 o'clock.

The 2nd day in the morning having fair weather we ascended the
hill, and found a small Indian path which we followed till we
found it run too much easterly, and then, doubting it would carry
us out of the way, we climbed some of the highest trees on the
hill, which was not meanly furnished with as large and tall trees
as ever I saw: at length we discovered some houses in a valley on
the north side of the hill, but it being steep could not descend
on that side, but followed the small path which led us down the
hill on the east side, where we presently found several other
Indian houses. The first that we came to at the foot of the hill
had none but women at home who could not speak Spanish, but gave
each of us a good calabash or shell-full of corn-drink. The other
houses had some men at home, but none that spoke Spanish; yet we
made a shift to buy such food as their houses or plantations
afforded, which we dressed and ate all together; having all sorts
of our provision in common, because none should live better than
others, or pay dearer for anything than it was worth. This day we
had marched 6 mile.

In the evening the husbands of those women came home and told
us in broken Spanish that they had been on board of the
guard-ship, which we fled from two days before, that we were now
not above 3 mile from the mouth of the river Congo, and that they
could go from thence aboard the guard-ship in half a tide's
time.

This evening we supped plentifully on fowls and peccary; a
sort of wild hogs which we bought of the Indians; yams, potatoes,
and plantains served us for bread, whereof we had enough. After
supper we agreed with one of these Indians to guide us a day's
march into the country, towards the north side; he was to have
for his pains a hatchet, and his bargain was to bring us to a
certain Indian's habitation, who could speak Spanish, from whom
we were in hopes to be better satisfied of our journey.

The 3rd day having fair weather we began to stir betimes, and
set out between 6 and 7 o'clock, marching through several old
ruined plantations. This morning one of our men being tired gave
us the slip. By 12 o'clock we had gone 8 mile, and arrived at the
Indian's house, who lived on the bank of the river Congo and
spoke very good Spanish; to whom we declared the reason of this
visit.

At first he seemed to be very dubious of entertaining any
discourse with us, and gave impertinent answers to the questions
that we demanded of him; he told us he knew no way to the north
side of the country, but could carry us to Cheapo, or Santa
Maria, which we knew to be Spanish garrisons; the one lying to
the eastward of us, the other to the westward: either of them at
least 20 miles out of our way. We could get no other answer from
him, and all his discourse was in such an angry tone as plainly
declared he was not our friend. However we were forced to make a
virtue of necessity and humour him, for it was neither time nor
place to be angry with the Indians; all our lives lying in their
hand.

We were now at a great loss, not knowing what course to take,
for we tempted him with beads, money, hatchets, machetes, or long
knives; but nothing would work on him, till one of our men took a
sky-coloured petticoat out of his bag and put it on his wife; who
was so much pleased with the present that she immediately began
to chatter to her husband, and soon brought him into a better
humour. He could then tell us that he knew the way to the north
side, and would have gone with us, but that he had cut his foot
two days before, which made him incapable of serving us himself:
but he would take care that we should not want a guide; and
therefore he hired the same Indian who brought us hither to
conduct us two days' march further for another hatchet. The old
man would have stayed us here all the day because it rained very
hard; but our business required more haste, our enemies lying so
near us, for he told us that he could go from his house aboard
the guard-ship in a tide's time; and this was the 4th day since
they saw us. So we marched 3 miles farther, and then built huts,
where we stayed all night; it rained all the afternoon, and the
greatest part of the night.

The 4th day we began our march betimes, for the forenoons were
commonly fair, but much rain after noon: though whether it rained
or shined it was much at one with us, for I verily believe we
crossed the rivers 30 times this day: the Indians having no paths
to travel from one part of the country to another; and therefore
guided themselves by the rivers. We marched this day 12 miles,
and then built our hut, and lay down to sleep; but we always kept
two men on the watch; otherwise our own slaves might have knocked
us on the head while we slept. It rained violently all the
afternoon and most part of the night. We had much ado to kindle a
fire this evening: our huts were but very mean or ordinary, and
our fire small, so that we could not dry our clothes, scarce warm
ourselves, and no sort of food for the belly; all which made it
very hard with us. I confess these hardships quite expelled the
thoughts of an enemy, for now, having been 4 days in the country,
we began to have but few other cares than how to get guides and
food, the Spaniards were seldom in our thoughts.

The 5th day we set out in the morning betimes, and, having
travelled 7 miles in those wild pathless woods, by 10 o'clock in
the morning we arrived at a young Spanish Indian's house, who had
formerly lived with the Bishop of Panama. The young Indian was
very brisk, spoke very good Spanish, and received us very kindly.
This plantation afforded us store of provisions, yams, and
potatoes, but nothing of any flesh besides 2 fat monkeys we shot,
part whereof we distributed to some of our company, who were weak
and sickly; for others we got eggs and such refreshments as the
Indians had, for we still provided for the sick and weak. We had
a Spanish Indian in our company, who first took up arms with
Captain Sawkins, and had been with us ever since his death. He
was persuaded to live here by the master of the house, who
promised him his sister in marriage, and to be assistant to him
in clearing a plantation: but we would not consent to part from
him here for fear of some treachery, but promised to release him
in two or three days, when we were certainly out of danger of our
enemies. We stayed here all the afternoon, and dried our clothes
and ammunition, cleared our guns, and provided ourselves for a
march the next morning.

Our surgeon, Mr. Wafer, came to a sad disaster here: being
drying his powder, a careless fellow passed by with his pipe
lighted and set fire to his powder, which blew up and scorched
his knee, and reduced him to that condition that he was not able
to march; wherefore we allowed him a slave to carry his things,
being all of us the more concerned at the accident, because
liable ourselves every moment to misfortune, and none to look
after us but him. This Indian plantation was seated on the bank
of the river Congo, in a very fat soil, and thus far we might
have come in our canoe if I could have persuaded them to it.

The 6th day we set out again, having hired another guide. Here
we first crossed the river Congo in a canoe, having been from our
first landing on the west side of the river, and, being over, we
marched to the eastward two miles, and came to another river,
which we forded several times though it was very deep. Two of our
men were not able to keep company with us, but came after us as
they were able. The last time we forded the river it was so deep
that our tallest men stood in the deepest place and handed the
sick, weak and short men; by which means we all got over safe,
except those two who were behind. Foreseeing a necessity of
wading through rivers frequently in our land-march, I took care
before I left the ship to provide myself a large joint of bamboo,
which I stopped at both ends, closing it with wax, so as to keep
out any water. In this I preserved my journal and other writings
from being wet, though I was often forced to swim. When we were
over this river, we sat down to wait the coming of our consorts
who were left behind, and in half an hour they came. But the
river by that time was so high that they could not get over it,
neither could we help them over, but bid them be of good comfort,
and stay till the river did fall: but we marched two miles
farther by the side of the river, and there built our huts,
having gone this day six miles. We had scarce finished our huts
before the river rose much higher, and, overflowing the banks,
obliged us to remove into higher ground: but the next night came
on before we could build more huts, so we lay straggling in the
woods, some under one tree, some under another, as we could find
conveniency, which might have been indifferent comfortable if the
weather had been fair; but the greatest part of the night we had
extraordinary hard rain, with much lightning, and terrible claps
of thunder. These hardships and inconveniencies made us all
careless, and there was no watch kept (though I believe nobody
did sleep) so our slaves, taking the opportunity, went away in
the night; all but one who was hid in some hole and knew nothing
of their design, or else fell asleep. Those that went away
carried with them our surgeon's gun and all his money.

The next morning being the 8th day, we went to the river's
side, and found it much fallen; and here our guide would have us
ford it again, which, being deep and the current running swift,
we could not. Then we contrived to swim over; those that could
not swim we were resolved to help over as well as we could: but
this was not so feasible: for we should not be able to get all
our things over. At length we concluded to send one man over with
a line, who should haul over all our things first, and then get
the men over. This being agreed on, one George Gayny took the end
of a line and made it fast about his neck, and left the other end
ashore, and one man stood by the line to clear it away to him.
But when Gayny was in the midst of the water the, line in drawing
after him, chanced to kink or grow entangled; and he that stood
by to clear it away stopped the line, which turned Gayny on his
back, and he that had the line in his hand threw it all into the
river after him, thinking he might recover himself; but the
stream running very swift, and the man having three hundred
dollars at his back, was carried down, and never seen more by us.
Those two men whom we left behind the day before, told us
afterwards that they found him lying dead in a creek where the
eddy had driven him ashore, and the money on his back; but they
meddled not with any of it, being only in care how to work their
way through a wild unknown country. This put a period to that
contrivance. This was the fourth man that we lost in this
land-journey; for these two men that we left the day before did
not come to us till we were in the North Seas, so we yielded them
also for lost. Being frustrated at getting over the river this
way, we looked about for a tree to fell across the river. At
length we found one, which we cut down, and it reached clear
over: on this we passed to the other side, where we found a small
plantain-walk, which we soon ransacked.

While we were busy getting plantains our guide was gone, but
in less than two hours came to us again, and brought with him an
old Indian to whom he delivered up his charge; and we gave him a
hatchet and dismissed him, and entered ourselves under the
conduct of our new guide: who immediately led us away, and
crossed another river, and entered into a large valley of the
fattest land I did ever take notice of; the trees were not very
thick, but the largest that I saw in all my travels; we saw great
tracks which were made by the peccaries, but saw none of them. We
marched in this pleasant country till 3 o'clock in the afternoon,
in all about 4 miles, and then arrived at the old man's country
house, which was only a habitation for hunting: there was a small
plantain-walk, some yams, and potatoes. Here we took up our
quarters for this day and refreshed ourselves with such food as
the place afforded, and dried our clothes and ammunition. At this
place our young Spanish Indian provided to leave us, for now we
thought ourselves past danger. This was he that was persuaded to
stay at the last house we came from, to marry the young man's
sister; and we dismissed him according to our promise.

The 9th day the old man conducted us towards his own
habitation. We marched about 5 miles in this valley; and then
ascended a hill and travelled about 5 miles farther over two or
three small hills before we came to any settlement. Half a mile
before we came to the plantations we light of a path, which
carried us to the Indians habitations. We saw many wooden crosses
erected in the way, which created some jealousy in us that here
were some Spaniards: therefore we new-primed all our guns, and
provided ourselves for an enemy; but coming into the town found
none but Indians, who were all got together in a large house to
receive us: for the old man had a little boy with him that he
sent before.

They made us welcome to such as they had, which was very mean;
for these were new plantations, the corn being not eared.
Potatoes, yams, and plantains they had none but what they brought
from their old plantations. There was none of them spoke good
Spanish: two young men could speak a little, it caused us to take
more notice of them. To these we made a present, and desired them
to get us a guide to conduct us to the north side, or part of the
way, which they promised to do themselves; if we would reward
them for it, but told us we must lie still the next day. But we
thought ourselves nearer the North Sea than we were, and proposed
to go without a guide rather than stay here a whole day: however
some of our men who were tired resolved to stay behind; and Mr.
Wafer our surgeon, who marched in great pain ever since his knee
was burned with powder, was resolved to stay with them.

The 10th day we got up betimes, resolving to march, but the
Indians opposed it as much as they could; but, seeing they could
not persuade us to stay, they came with us; and, having taken
leave of our friends, we set out.

Here therefore we left the surgeon and two more, as we said,
and marched away to the eastward following our guides. But we
often looked on our pocket compasses and showed them to the
guides, pointing at the way that we would go, which made them
shake their heads and say they were pretty things, but not
convenient for us. After we had descended the hills on which the
town stood we came down into a valley, and guided ourselves by a
river, which we crossed 22 times; and, having marched 9 miles, we
built huts and lay there all night: this evening I killed a
quaum, a large bird as big as a turkey, wherewith we treated our
guides, for we brought no provision with us. This night our last
slave ran away.

The eleventh day we marched 10 mile farther, and built huts at
night; but went supperless to bed.

The twelfth in the morning we crossed a deep river, passing
over it on a tree, and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground; and
came to the side of a great deep river, but could not get over.
We built huts upon its banks and lay there all night, upon our
borbecus, or frames of sticks raised about 3 foot from the
ground.

The thirteenth day when we turned out the river had overflowed
its banks, and was 2 foot deep in our huts, and our guides went
from us, not telling us their intent, which made us think they
were returned home again. Now we began to repent our haste in
coming from the settlements, for we had no food since we came
from thence. Indeed we got macaw-berries in this place, wherewith
we satisfied ourselves this day though coarsely.

The fourteenth day in the morning betimes our guides came to
us again; and, the waters being fallen within their bounds, they
carried us to a tree that stood on the bank of the river, and
told us if we could fell that tree across it we might pass: if
not, we could pass no farther. Therefore we set two of the best
axe-men that we had, who felled it exactly across the river, and
the boughs just reached over; on this we passed very safe. We
afterwards crossed another river three times, with much
difficulty, and at 3 o'clock in the afternoon we came to an
Indian settlement, where we met a drove of monkeys, and killed 4
of them, and stayed here all night, having marched this day 6
miles. Here we got plantains enough, and a kind reception of the
Indian that lived here all alone, except one boy to wait on
him.

The fifteenth day when we set out, the kind Indian and his boy
went with us in a canoe, and set us over such places as we could
not ford: and, being past those great rivers, he returned back
again, having helped us at least 2 mile. We marched afterwards 5
mile, and came to large plantain-walks, where we took up our
quarters that night; we there fed plentifully on plantains, both
ripe and green, and had fair weather all the day and night. I
think these were the largest plantain-walks, and the biggest
plantains that ever I saw, but no house near them: we gathered
what we pleased by our guide's orders.

The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile and came to a large
settlement where we abode all day: not a man of us but wished the
journey at an end; our feet being blistered, and our thighs
stripped with wading through so many rivers; the way being almost
continually through rivers or pathless woods. In the afternoon
five of us went to seek for game and killed 3 monkeys, which we
dressed for supper. Here we first began to have fair weather,
which continued with us till we came to the North Seas.

The eighteenth day we set out at 10 o'clock, and the Indians
with 5 canoes carried us a league up a river; and when we landed
the kind Indians went with us and carried our burdens. We marched
3 mile farther, and then built our huts, having travelled from
the last settlements 6 mile.

The nineteenth day our guides lost their way, and we did not
march above 2 mile.

The twentieth day by 12 o'clock we came to Cheapo River. The
rivers we crossed hitherto run all into the South Seas; and this
of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way. Here an old
man who came from the last settlements distributed his burthen of
plantains amongst us and, taking his leave, returned home.
Afterward we forded the river and marched to the foot of a very
high mountain, where we lay all night. This day we marched about
9 miles.

The 21st day some of the Indians returned back, and we marched
up a very high mountain; being on the top, we went some miles on
a ridge, and steep on both sides; then descended a little, and
came to a fine spring, where we lay all night, having gone this
day about 9 miles, the weather still very fair and clear.

The 22nd day we marched over another very high mountain,
keeping on the ridge 5 miles. When we came to the north end we,
to our great comfort, saw the sea; then we descended, and parted
ourselves into 3 companies, and lay by the side of a river, which
was the first we met that runs into the North Sea.

The 23rd day we came through several large plantain-walks, and
at 10 o'clock came to an Indian habitation not far from the North
Seas. Here we got canoes to carry as down the river Concepcion to
the seaside; having gone this day 7 miles. We found a great many
Indians at the mouth of the river. They had settled themselves
here for the benefit of trade with the privateers; and their
commodities were yams, potatoes, plantains, sugarcane, fowls, and
eggs.

The Indians told us that there had been a great many English
and French ships here, which were all gone but one barcolongo, a
French privateer that lay at La Sounds Key or Island. This island
is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the river Concepcion, and is
one of the Samballoes, a range of islands reaching for about 20
leagues from Point Samballas to Golden Island eastward. These
islands or keys, as we call them, were first made the rendezvous
of privateers in the year 1679, being very convenient for
careening, and had names given to some of them by the captains of
the privateers: as this La Sounds Key particularly.

Thus we finished our journey from the South Sea to the North
in 23 days; in which time by my account we travelled 110 miles,
crossing some very high mountains; but our common march was in
the valleys among deep and dangerous rivers. At our first landing
in this country, we were told that the Indians were our enemies;
we knew the rivers to be deep, the wet season to be coming in;
yet, excepting those we left behind, we lost but one man, who was
drowned, as I said. Our first landing place on the south coast
was very disadvantageous, for we travelled at least fifty miles
more than we need to have done, could we have gone up Cheapo
River, or Santa Maria River; for at either of these places a man
may pass from sea to sea in three days time with ease. The
Indians can do it in a day and a half, by which you may see how
easy it is for a party of men to travel over. I must confess the
Indians did assist us very much, and I question whether ever we
had got over without their assistance, because they brought us
from time to time to their plantations where we always got
provision, which else we should have wanted. But if a party of
500 or 600 men or more were minded to travel from the North to
the South Seas they may do it without asking leave of the
Indians; though it be much better to be friends with them.

The 24th of May (having lain one night at the river's mouth)
we all went on board the privateer, who lay at La Sound's Key. It
was a French vessel, Captain Tristian commander. The first thing
we did was to get such things as we could to gratify our Indian
guides, for we were resolved to reward them to their hearts'
content. This we did by giving them beads, knives, scissors, and
looking-glasses, which we bought of the privateer's crew: and
half a dollar a man from each of us; which we would have bestowed
in goods also, but could not get any, the privateer having no
more toys. They were so well satisfied with these that they
returned with joy to their friends; and were very kind to our
consorts whom we left behind; as Mr. Wafer our surgeon and the
rest of them told us when they came to us some months afterwards,
as shall be said hereafter.

I might have given a further account of several things
relating to this country; the inland parts of which are so little
known to the Europeans. But I shall leave this province to Mr.
Wafer, who made a longer abode in it than I, and is better able
to do it than any man that I know, and is now preparing a
particular description of this country for the press.

Chapter III

The Author's Cruising with the Privateers in the North Seas on the West India Coast.

The privateer on board which we went being now cleaned, and
our Indian guides thus satisfied and set ashore, we set sail in
two days for Springer's Key, another of the Samballoes Isles, and
about 7 or 8 leagues from La Sound's Key. Here lay 8 sail of
privateers more, namely:

English commanders and Englishmen:

Captain Coxon, 10 guns, 100 men.

Captain Payne, 10 guns, 100 men.

Captain Wright, a barcolongo. 4 guns, 40 men.

Captain Williams, a small barcolongo.

Captain Yankes, a barcolongo, 4 guns, about 60 men, English,
Dutch and French; himself a Dutchman.

French Commanders and men:

Captain Archemboe, 8 guns, 40 men.

Captain Tucker, 6 guns, 70 men.

Captain Rose, a barcolongo.

An hour before we came to the fleet Captain Wright, who had
been sent to Chagra River, arrived at Springer's Key with a large
canoe or periago laden with flour, which he took there. Some of
the prisoners belonging to the periago came from Panama not above
six days before he took her, and told the news of our coming
overland, and likewise related the condition and strength of
Panama, which was the main thing they enquired after; for Captain
Wright was sent thither purposely to get a prisoner that was able
to inform them of the strength of that city, because these
privateers designed to join all their force, and, by the
assistance of the Indians (who had promised to be their guides)
to march overland to Panama; and there is no other way of getting
prisoners for that purpose but by absconding between Chagra and
Portobello, because there are much goods brought that way from
Panama; especially when the armada lies at Portobello. All the
commanders were aboard of Captain Wright when we came into the
fleet; and were mighty inquisitive of the prisoners to know the
truth of what they related concerning us. But as soon as they
knew we were come they immediately came aboard of Captain
Tristian, being all overjoyed to see us; for Captain Coxon and
many others had left us in the South Seas about 12 months since,
and had never heard what became of us since that time. They
enquired of us what we did there? how we lived? how far we had
been? and what discoveries we made in those seas? After we had
answered these general questions they began to be more particular
in examining us concerning our passage through the country from
the South Seas. We related the whole matter; giving them an
account of the fatigues of our march, and the inconveniencies we
suffered by the rains; and disheartened them quite from that
design.

Then they proposed several other places where such a party of
men as were now got together might make a voyage; but the
objections of some or other still hindered any proceeding: for
the privateers have an account of most towns within 20 leagues of
the sea, on all the coast from Trinidad down to La Vera Cruz; and
are able to give a near guess of the strength and riches of them:
for they make it their business to examine all prisoners that
fall into their hands concerning the country, town, or city that
they belong to; whether born there, or how long they have known
it? how many families, whether most Spaniards? or whether the
major part are not copper-coloured, as Mulattoes, Mestizos, or
Indians? whether rich, and what their riches do consist in? and
what their chiefest manufactures? if fortified, how many great
guns, and what number of small arms? whether it is possible to
come undescribed on them? How many lookouts or sentinels; for
such the Spaniards always keep? and how the lookouts are placed?
Whether possible to avoid the lookouts, or take them? If any
river or creek comes near it, or where the best landing; with
innumerable other such questions, which their curiosities lead
them to demand. And if they have had any former discourse of such
places from other prisoners they compare one with the other; then
examine again, and enquire if he or any of them are capable to be
guides to conduct a party of men thither: if not, where and how
any prisoner may be taken that may do it; and from thence they
afterwards lay their schemes to prosecute whatever design they
take in hand.

It was 7 or 8 days after before any resolution was taken, yet
consultations were held every day. The French seemed very forward
to go to any town that the English could or would propose,
because the governor of Petit Guavres (from whom the privateers
take commissions) had recommended a gentleman lately come from
France to be general of the expedition, and sent word by Captain
Tucker, with whom this gentleman came, that they should, if
possible, make an attempt on some town before he returned again.
The English, when they were in company with the French, seemed to
approve of what the French said, but never looked on that general
to be fit for the service in hand.

THEY GO TO THE ISLE OF SAN ANDREAS. OF THE CEDARS THERE.

At length it was concluded to go to a town, the name of which
I have forgot; it lies a great way in the country, but not such a
tedious march as it would be from hence to Panama. Our way to it
lay up Carpenter's River, which is about 60 leagues to the
westward of Portobello. Our greatest obstruction in this design
was our want of boats: therefore it was concluded to go with all
our fleet to San Andreas, a small uninhabited island lying near
the isle of Providence, to the westward of it, in 13 degrees 15
minutes north latitude, and from Portobello north-north-west
about 70 leagues; where we should be but a little way from
Carpenter's River. And besides, at this island we might build
canoes, it being plentifully stored with large cedars for such a
purpose; and for this reason the Jamaica men come hither
frequently to build sloops; cedar being very fit for building,
and it being to be had here at free cost; beside other wood.
Jamaica is well stored with cedars of its own, chiefly among the
Rocky Mountains: these also of San Andreas grow in stony ground,
and are the largest that ever I knew or heard of; the bodies
alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long, many 60 or 70 and
upwards, and of a proportionable bigness. The Bermudas Isles are
well stored with them; so is Virginia, which is generally a sandy
soil. I saw none in the East Indies, nor in the South Sea coast,
except on the Isthmus as I came over it. We reckon the periagos
and canoes that are made of cedar to be the best of any; they are
nothing but the tree itself made hollow boat-wise, with a flat
bottom, and the canoe generally sharp at both ends, the periago
at one only, with the other end flat. But what is commonly said
of cedar, that the worm will not touch it, is a mistake, for I
have seen of it very much worm-eaten.

All things being thus concluded on, we sailed from thence,
directing our course towards San Andreas. We kept company the
first day, but at night it blew a hard gale at north-east and
some of our ships bore away: the next day others were forced to
leave us, and the second night we lost all our company. I was now
belonging to Captain Archembo, for all the rest of the fleet were
over-manned: Captain Archembo wanting men, we that came out of
the South Seas must either sail with him or remain among the
Indians. Indeed we found no cause to dislike the captain; but his
French seamen were the saddest creatures that ever I was among;
for though we had bad weather that required many hands aloft, yet
the biggest part of them never stirred out of their hammocks but
to eat or ease themselves. We made a shift to find the island the
fourth day, where we met Captain Wright, who came thither the day
before, and had taken a Spanish tartane, wherein were 30 men, all
well armed: she had 4 patereroes and some long guns placed in the
swivel on the gunwale. They fought an hour before they yielded.
The news they related was that they came from Cartagena in
company of 11 armadillos (which are small vessels of war) to seek
for the fleet of privateers lying in the Samballoes: that they
parted from the armadillos 2 days before: that they were ordered
to search the Samballoes for us, and if they did not find us then
they were ordered to go to Portobello, and lay there till they
had farther intelligence of us, and he supposed these armadillos
to be now there.

We that came overland out of the South Seas, being weary of
living among the French, desired Captain Wright to fit up his
prize the tartane, and make a man-of-war of her for us, which he
at first seemed to decline, because he was settled among the
French in Hispaniola, and was very well beloved both by the
governor of Petit Guavres, and all the gentry; and they would
resent it ill that Captain Wright, who had no occasion of men,
should be so unkind to Captain Archembo as to seduce his men from
him, he being so meanly manned that he could hardly sail his ship
with his Frenchmen. We told him we would no longer remain with
Captain Archembo, but would go ashore there and build canoes to
transport ourselves down to the Moskitos if he would not
entertain us; for privateers are not obliged to any ship, but
free to go ashore where they please, or to go into any other ship
that will entertain them, only paying for their provision.

When Captain Wright saw our resolutions he agreed with us on
condition we should be under his command as one ship's company,
to which we unanimously consented.

THE CORN ISLANDS, AND THEIR INHABITANTS.

We stayed here about 10 days to see if any more of our fleet
would come to us; but there came no more of us to the island but
three, namely, Captain Wright, Captain Archembo, and Captain
Tucker. Therefore we concluded the rest were bore away either for
Boca Toro or Bluefield's River on the Main; and we designed to
seek them. We had fine weather while we lay here, only some
tornadoes, or thundershowers: but in this isle of San Andreas,
there being neither fish, fowl, nor deer, and it being therefore
but an ordinary place for us, who had but little provision, we
sailed from hence again in quest of our scattered fleet,
directing our course for some islands lying near the Main, called
by the privateers the Corn Islands; being in hopes to get corn
there. These islands I take to be the same which are generally
called in the maps the Pearl Islands, lying about the latitude of
12 degrees 10 minutes north. Here we arrived the next day, and
went ashore on one of them, but found none of the inhabitants;
for here are but a few poor naked Indians that live here; who
have been so often plundered by the privateers that they have but
little provision; and when they see a sail they hide themselves;
otherwise ships that come here would take them, and make slaves
of them; and I have seen some of them that have been slaves. They
are people of a mean stature, yet strong limbs; they are of a
dark copper-colour, black hair, full round faces, small black
eyes, their eyebrows hanging over their eyes, low foreheads,
short thick noses, not high, but flattish; full lips, and short
chins. They have a fashion to cut holes in the lips of the boys
when they are young, close to their chin; which they keep open
with little pegs till they are 14 or 15 years old: then they wear
beards in them, made of turtle or tortoiseshell, in the form you
see in the illustration. The little notch at the upper end they
put in through the lip, where it remains between the teeth and
the lip; the under-part hangs down over their chin. This they
commonly wear all day, and when they sleep they take it out. They
have likewise holes bored in their ears, both men and women when
young; and, by continual stretching them with great pegs, they
grow to be as big as a milled five-shilling piece. Herein they
wear pieces of wood cut very round and smooth, so that their ear
seems to be all wood with a little skin about it. Another
ornament the women use is about their legs, which they are very
curious in; for from the infancy of the girls their mothers make
fast a piece of cotton cloth about the small of their leg, from
the ankle to the calf, very hard; which makes them have a very
full calf: this the women wear to their dying day. Both men and
women go naked, only a clout about their waists; yet they have
but little feet, though they go barefoot. Finding no provision
here we sailed towards Bluefield's River, where we careened our
tartane; and there Captain Archembo and Captain Tucker left us,
and went towards Boca Toro.

BLUEFIELD'S RIVER, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE MANATEE THERE, OR
SEA-COW; WITH THE MANNER HOW THE MOSKITO INDIANS KILL THEM, AND
TORTOISE, ETC.

This Bluefield's River comes out between the rivers of
Nicaragua and Veragna. At its mouth is a fine sandy bay where
barks may clean: it is deep at its mouth but a shoal within; so
that ships may not enter, yet barks of 60 or 70 tuns may. It had
this name from Captain Bluefield, a famous privateer living on
Providence Island long before Jamaica was taken. Which island of
Providence was settled by the English, and belonged to the Earls
of Warwick.

In this river we found a canoe coming down the stream; and
though we went with our canoes to seek for inhabitants yet we
found none, but saw in two or three places signs that Indians had
made on the side of the river. The canoe which we found was but
meanly made for want of tools, therefore we concluded these
Indians have no commerce with the Spaniards, nor with other
Indians that have.

While we lay here, our Moskito men went in their canoe and
struck us some manatee, or sea-cow. Besides this Bluefield's
River, I have seen of the manatee in the Bay of Campeachy, on the
coasts of Boca del Drago, and Boca del Toro, in the river of
Darien, and among the South Keys or little islands of Cuba. I
have heard of their being found on the north of Jamaica a few,
and in the rivers of Surinam in great multitudes, which is a very
low land. I have seen of them also at Mindanao, one of the
Philippine Islands, and on the coast of New Holland. This
creature is about the bigness of a horse, and 10 or 12 foot long.
The mouth of it is much like the mouth of a cow, having great
thick lips. The eyes are no bigger than a small pea; the ears are
only two small holes on each side of the head. The neck is short
and thick, bigger than the head. The biggest part of this
creature is at the shoulders where it has two large fins, one on
each side of its belly. Under each of these fins the female has a
small dug to suckle her young. From the shoulders towards the
tail it retains its bigness for about a foot, then grows smaller
and smaller to the very tail, which is flat, and about 14 inches
broad and 20 inches long, and in the middle 4 or 5 inches thick,
but about the edges of it not above 2 inches thick. From the head
to the tail it is round and smooth without any fin but those two
before mentioned. I have heard that some have weighed above 1200
pounds, but I never saw any so large. The manatee delights to
live in brackish water; and they are commonly in creeks and
rivers near the sea. It is for this reason possibly they are not
seen in the South Seas (that ever I could observe) where the
coast is generally a bold shore, that is, high land and deep
water close home by it, with a high sea or great surges, except
in the Bay of Panama; yet even there is no manatee. Whereas the
West Indies, being as it were one great bay composed of many
smaller, are mostly low land and shoal water, and afford proper
pasture (as I may say) for the manatee. Sometimes we find them in
salt water, sometimes in fresh; but never far at sea. And those
that live in the sea at such places where there is no river nor
creek fit for them to enter yet do commonly come once or twice in
24 hours to the mouth of any fresh-water river that is near their
place of abode. They live on grass 7 or 8 inches long, and of a
narrow blade, which grows in the sea in many places, especially
among islands near the Main. This grass grows likewise in creeks,
or in great rivers near the sides of them, in such places where
there is but little tide or current. They never come ashore, nor
into shallower water than where they can swim. Their flesh is
white, both the fat and the lean, and extraordinary sweet,
wholesome meat. The tail of a young cow is most esteemed; but if
old both head and tail are very tough. A calf that sucks is the
most delicate meat; privateers commonly roast them; as they do
also great pieces cut out of the bellies of the old ones.

The skin of the manatee is of great use to privateers for they
cut them into straps which they make fast on the sides of their
canoes, through which they put their oars in rowing, instead of
tholes or pegs. The skin of the bull or of the back of the cow is
too thick for this use; but of it they make horse-whips, cutting
them 2 or 3 foot long: at the handle they leave the full
substance of the skin, and from thence cut it away tapering, but
very even and square all the four sides. While the thongs are
green they twist them and hang them to dry; which in a week's time
become as hard as wood. The Moskito men have always a small canoe
for their use to strike fish, tortoise, or manatee, which they
keep usually to themselves, and very neat and clean. They use no
oars but paddles, the broad part of which does not go tapering
towards the staff, pole or handle of it, as in the oar; nor do
they use it in the same manner by laying it on the side of the
vessel; but hold it perpendicular, gripping the staff hard with
both hands, and putting back the water by main strength, and very
quick strokes. One of the Moskitos (for they go but two in a
canoe) sits in the stern, the other kneels down in the head, and
both paddle till they come to the place where they expect their
game. Then they lie still or paddle very softly, looking well
about them; and he that is in the head of the canoe lays down his
paddle, and stands up with his striking-staff in his hand. This
staff is about 8 foot long, almost as big as a man's arm at the
great end, in which there is a hole to place his harpoon in. At
the other end of his staff there is a piece of light wood called
bob-wood, with a hole in it, through which the small end of the
staff comes; and on this piece of bob-wood there is a line of 10
or 12 fathom wound neatly about, and the end of the line made
fast to it. The other end of the line is made fast to the
harpoon, which is at the great end of the staff, and the Moskito
men keep about a fathom of it loose in his hand. When he strikes,
the harpoon presently comes out of the staff, and as the manatee
swims away the line runs off from the bob; and although at first
both staff and bob may be carried under water, yet as the line
runs off it will rise again. Then the Moskito men paddle with all
their might to get hold of the bob again, and spend usually a
quarter of an hour before they get it. When the Manatee begins to
be tired, it lies still, and then the Moskito men paddle to the
bob and take it up, and begin to haul in the line. When the
manatee feels them he swims away again, with the canoe after him;
then he that steers must be nimble to turn the head of the canoe
that way that his consort points, who, being in the head of the
canoe, and holding the line, both sees and feels which way the
manatee is swimming. Thus the canoe is towed with a violent
motion, till the manatee's strength decays. Then they gather in
the line, which they are often forced to let all go to the very
end. At length, when the creature's strength is spent, they haul
it up to the canoe's side, and knock it on the head, and tow it
to the nearest shore, where they make it fast and seek for
another; which having taken, they get on shore with it to put it
into their canoe: for it is so heavy that they cannot lift it in,
but they haul it up in shoal water, as near the shore as they
can, and then overset the canoe, laying one side close to the
manatee. Then they roll it in, which brings the canoe upright again;
and when they have heaved out the water they fasten a line to the
other manatee that lies afloat, and tow it after them. I have
known two Moskito men for a week every day bring aboard 2 manatee
in this manner; the least of which has not weighed less than 600
pound, and that in a very small canoe, that three Englishmen
would scarce adventure to go in. When they strike a cow that has
a young one they seldom miss the calf, for she commonly takes her
young under one of her fins. But if the calf is so big that she
cannot carry it, or so frightened that she only minds to save her
own life, yet the young never leaves her till the Moskito men
have an opportunity to strike her.

The manner of striking manatee and tortoise is much the same;
only when they seek for manatee they paddle so gently that they
make no noise, and never touch the side of their canoe with their
paddle, because it is a creature that hears very well. But they
are not so nice when they seek for tortoise, whose eyes are
better than his ears. They strike the tortoise with a square
sharp iron peg, the other with a harpoon. The Moskito men make
their own striking instruments, as harpoons, fishhooks, and
tortoise-irons or pegs. These pegs, or tortoise-irons, are made
4-square, sharp at one end, and not much above an inch in length,
of such a figure as you see in the illustration. The small spike
at the broad end has a line fastened to it, and goes also into a
hole at the end of the striking-staff, which when the tortoise is
struck flies off, the iron and the end of the line fastened to it
going quite within the shell, where it is so buried that the
tortoise cannot possibly escape.

THE MAHO-TREE.

They make their lines both for fishing and striking with the
bark of maho; which is a sort of tree or shrub that grows
plentifully all over the West Indies, and whose bark is made up
of strings, or threads very strong. You may draw it off either in
flakes or small threads, as you have occasion. It is fit for any
manner of cordage; and privateers often make their rigging of it.
So much by way of digression.

When we had cleaned our tartane we sailed from hence, bound
for Boca Toro, which is an opening between 2 islands about 10
degrees 10 minutes north latitude between the rivers of Veragne
and Chagre. Here we met with Captain Yankes, who told us that
there had been a fleet of Spanish armadillos to seek us: that
Captain Tristian, having fallen to leeward, was coming to Boca
Toro, and fell in amongst them, supposing them to be our fleet:
that they fired and chased him, but he rowed and towed, and they
supposed he got away: that Captain Pain was likewise chased by
them and Captain Williams; and that they had not seen them since
they lay within the islands: that the Spaniards never came in to
him; and that Captain Coxon was in at the careening-place.

THE SAVAGES OF BOCA TORO.

This Boca Toro is a place that the privateers use to resort to
as much as any place on all the coast, because here is plenty of
green tortoise, and a good careening place. The Indians here have
no commerce with the Spaniards; but are very barbarous and will
not be dealt with. They have destroyed many privateers, as they
did not long after this some of Captain Pain's men; who, having
built a tent ashore to put his goods in while he careened his
ship, and some men lying there with their arms, in the night the
Indians crept softly into the tent, and cut off the heads of
three or four men, and made their escape; nor was this the first
time they had served the privateers so. There grow on this coast
vinelloes in great quantity, with which chocolate is perfumed.
These I shall describe elsewhere.

HE TOUCHES AGAIN AT POINT SAMBALAS, AND ITS ISLANDS. THE
GROVES OF SAPADILLOES THERE, THE SOLDIER'S INSECT, AND
MANCHANEEL-TREE.

Our fleet being thus scattered, there were now no hopes of
getting together again; therefore everyone did what they thought
most conducing to obtain their ends. Captain Wright, with whom I
now was, was resolved to cruise on the coast of Cartagena; and,
it being now almost the westerly-wind season, we sailed from
hence, and Captain Yankes with us; and we consorted, because
Captain Yankes had no commission, and was afraid the French would
take away his bark. We passed by Scuda, a small island (where it
is said Sir Francis Drake's bowels were buried) and came to a
small river to westward of Chagre; where we took two new canoes,
and carried them with us into the Samballoes. We had the wind at
west, with much rain; which brought us to Point Samballas. Here
Captain Wright and Captain Yankes left us in the tartane to fix
the canoes, while they went on the coast of Cartagena to seek for
provision. We cruised in among the islands, and kept our Moskito
men, or strikers-out, who brought aboard some half-grown
tortoise; and some of us went ashore every day to hunt for what
we could find in the woods: sometimes we got peccary, warree or
deer; at other times we light on a drove of large fat monkeys, or
quames, curassows (each a large sort of fowl) pigeons, parrots,
or turtle-doves. We lived very well on what we got, not staying
long in one place; but sometimes we would go on the islands,
where there grow great groves of sapadilloes, which is a sort of
fruit much like a pear, but more juicy; and under those trees we
found plenty of soldiers, a little kind of animals that live in
shells and have two great claws like a crab, and are good food.
One time our men found a great many large ones, and being
sharp-set had them dressed, but most of them were very sick
afterwards, being poisoned by them: for on this island were many
manchaneel-trees, whose fruit is like a small crab, and smells
very well, but they are not wholesome; and we commonly take care
of meddling with any animals that eat them. And this we take for
a general rule; when we find any fruits that we have not seen
before, if we see them pecked by birds, we may freely eat, but if
we see no such sign we let them alone; for of this fruit no birds
will taste. Many of these islands have of these manchaneel trees
growing on them.

Thus, cruising in among these islands, at length we came again
to La Sound's Key; and the day before having met with a Jamaica
sloop that was come over on the coast to trade, she went with us.
It was in the evening when we came to an anchor, and the next
morning we fired two guns for the Indians that lived on the Main
to come aboard; for by this time we concluded we should hear from
our five men that we left in the heart of the country among the
Indians, this being about the latter end of August, and it was
the beginning of May when we parted from them. According to our
expectations the Indians came aboard and brought our friends with
them: Mr. Wafer wore a clout about him, and was painted like an
Indian; and he was some time aboard before I knew him. One of
them, named Richard Cobson, died within three or four days after,
and was buried on La Sound's Key.

After this we went to other keys, to the eastward of these, to
meet Captain Wright and Captain Yankes, who met with a fleet of
periagos laden with Indian corn, hog and fowls, going to
Cartagena; being convoyed by a small armadillo of two guns and
six patereroes. Her they chased ashore, and most of the periagos;
but they got two of them off, and brought them away.

THE RIVER OF DARIEN, AND THE WILD INDIANS NEAR IT; MONASTERY
OF MADRE DE POPA, RIO GRANDE, SANTA MARTA TOWN, AND THE HIGH
MOUNTAIN THERE; RIO LA HACHA TOWN, RANCHO REYS, AND PEARL FISHERY
THERE; THE INDIAN INHABITANTS AND COUNTRY.

Here Captain Wright's and Captain Yankes's barks were cleaned;
and we stocked ourselves with corn, and then went towards the
coast of Cartagena. In our way thither we passed by the river of
Darien; which is very broad at the mouth, but not above 6 foot
water on a spring-tide; for the tide rises but little here.
Captain Coxon, about 6 months before we came out of the South
Seas, went up this river with a party of men: every man carried a
small strong bag to put his gold in; expecting great riches
there, though they got little or none. They rowed up about 100
leagues before they came to any settlement, and then found some
Spaniards, who lived there to truck with the Indians for gold;
there being gold scales in every house. The Spaniards admired how
they came so far from the mouth of the river, because there are a
sort of Indians living between that place and the sea who are
very dreadful to the Spaniards, and will not have any commerce
with them, nor with any white people. They use trunks about 8
foot long, out of which they blow poisoned darts; and are so
silent in their attacks on their enemies, and retreat so nimbly
again, that the Spaniards can never find them. Their darts are
made of macaw-wood, being about the bigness and length of a
knitting-needle; one end is wound about with cotton, the other
end is extraordinary sharp and small; and is jagged with notches
like a harpoon: so that whatever it strikes into it immediately
breaks off by the weight of the biggest end; which it is not of
strength to bear (it being made so slender for that purpose) and
is very difficult to be got out again by reason of those notches.
These Indians have always war with our Darien friendly Indians,
and live on both sides this great river 50 or 60 leagues from the
sea, but not near the mouth of the river. There are abundance of
manatee in this river, and some creeks belonging to it. This
relation I had from several men who accompanied Captain Coxon in
that discovery; and from Mr. Cook in particular, who was with
them, and is a very intelligent person: he is now chief mate of a
ship bound to Guinea. To return therefore to the prosecution of
our voyage: meeting with nothing of note, we passed by Cartagena;
which is a city so well known that I shall say nothing of it. We
sailed by in sight of it, for it lies open to the sea: and had a
fair view of Madre de Popa, or Nuestra Senora de Popa, a
monastery of the Virgin Mary, standing on the top of a very steep
hill just behind Cartagena. It is a place of incredible wealth,
by reason of the offerings made here continually; and for this
reason often in danger of being visited by the privateers, did
not the neighbourhood of Cartagena keep them in awe. It is in
short the very Loreto of the West Indies: it has innumerable
miracles related of it. Any misfortune that befalls the
privateers is attributed to this lady's doing; and the Spaniards
report that she was abroard that night the Oxford man-of-war was
blown up at the isle of Vacca near Hispaniola, and that she came
home all wet; as belike she often returns with her clothes dirty
and torn with passing through woods and bad ways when she has
been out upon any expedition; deserving doubtless a new suit for
such eminent pieces of service.

From hence we passed on to the Rio Grande, where we took up
fresh water at sea, a league off the mouth of that river. From
thence we sailed eastwards passing by Santa Marta, a large town
and good harbour belonging to the Spaniards: yet has it within
these few years been twice taken by the privateers. It stands
close upon the sea, and the hill within land is a very large one,
towering up a great height from a vast body of land. I am of
opinion that it is higher than the Pike of Tenerife; others also
that have seen both think the same; though its bigness makes its
height less sensible. I have seen it in passing by, 30 leagues
off at sea; others, as they told me, above 60: and several have
told me that they have seen at once Jamaica, Hispaniola, and the
high land of Santa Marta; and yet the nearest of these two places
is distant from it 120 leagues; and Jamaica, which is farthest
off, is accounted near 150 leagues; and I question whether any
land on either of those two islands may be seen 50 leagues. Its
head is generally hid in the clouds; but in clear weather, when
the top appears, it looks white; supposed to be covered with
snow. Santa Marta lies in the latitude of 12 degrees north.

Being advanced 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward of Santa Marta,
we left our ships at anchor and returned back in our canoes to
the Rio Grande; entering it by a mouth of it that disembogues
itself near Santa Marta: purposing to attempt some towns that lie
a pretty way up that river. But, this design meeting with
discouragements, we returned to our ships and set sail to the Rio
la Hacha. This has been a strong Spanish town, and is well built;
but being often taken by the privateers the Spaniards deserted it
some time before our arrival. It lies to the westward of a river;
and right against the town is a good road for ships, the bottom
clean and sandy. The Jamaica sloops used often to come over to
trade here: and I am informed that the Spaniards have again
settled themselves in it, and made it very strong. We entered the
fort and brought two small guns aboard. From thence we went to
the Rancho Reys, one or two small Indian villages where the
Spaniards keep two barks to fish for pearl. The pearl-banks lie
about 4 or 5 leagues off from the shore, as I have been told;
thither the fishing barks go and anchor; then the divers go down
to the bottom and fill a basket (which is let down before) with
oysters; and when they come up others go down, two at a time;
this they do till the bark is full, and then go ashore, where the
old men, women, and children of the Indians open the oysters,
there being a Spanish overseer to look after the pearl. Yet these
Indians do very often secure the best pearl for themselves, as
many Jamaica men can testify who daily trade with them. The meat
they string up, and hang it a-drying. At this place we went
ashore, where we found one of the barks, and saw great heaps of
oyster-shells, but the people all fled: yet in another place,
between this and Rio La Receba, we took some of the Indians, who
seem to be a stubborn sort of people: they are long-visaged,
black hair, their noses somewhat rising in the middle, and of a
stern look. The Spaniards report them to be a very numerous
nation; and that they will not subject themselves to their yoke.
Yet they have Spanish priests among them; and by trading have
brought them to be somewhat sociable; but cannot keep a severe
hand over them. The land is but barren, it being of a light sand
near the sea, and most savannah, or champaign; and the grass but
thin and coarse, yet they feed plenty of cattle. Every man knows
his own and looks after them; but the land is in common, except
only their houses or small plantations where they live, which
every man maintains with some fence about it. They may remove
from one place to another as they please, no man having right to
any land but what he possesses. This part of the country is not
so subject to rain as to the westward of Santa Marta; yet here
are tornadoes, or thundershowers; but neither so violent as on
the coast of Portobello, nor so frequent. The westerly winds in
the westerly-wind season blow here, though not so strong nor
lasting as on the coasts of Cartagena and Portobello.

When we had spent some time here we returned again towards the
coast of Cartagena; and, being between Rio Grande and that place,
we met with westerly winds, which kept us still to the eastward
of Cartagena 3 or 4 days; and then in the morning we descried a
sail off at sea, and we chased her at noon: Captain Wright, who
sailed best, came up with her, and engaged her; and in half an
hour after Captain Yankes, who sailed better than the tartane
(the vessel that I was in) came up with her likewise, and laid
her aboard, then Captain Wright also; and they took her before we
came up. They lost 2 or 3 men, and had 7 or 8 wounded. The prize
was a ship of 12 guns and 40 men, who had all good small arms.
She was laden with sugar and tobacco, and 8 or 10 tuns of
marmalett on board: she came from St. Jago on Cuba, and was bound
to Cartagena.

We went back with her to Rio Grande to fix our rigging which
was shattered in the fight, and to consider what to do with her;
for these were commodities of little use to us, and not worth
going into a port with. At the Rio Grande Captain Wright demanded
the prize as his due by virtue of his commission: Captain Yankes
said it was his due by the law of privateers. Indeed Captain
Wright had the most right to her, having by his commission
protected Captain Yankes from the French, who would have turned
him out because he had no commission; and he likewise began to
engage her first. But the company were all afraid that Captain
Wright would presently carry her into a port; therefore most of
Captain Wright's men stuck to Captain Yankes, and Captain Wright
losing his prize burned his own bark, and had Captain Yankes's,
it being bigger than his own; the tartane was sold to a Jamaica
trader, and Captain Yankes commanded the prize-ship. We went
again from hence to Rio la Hacha, and set the prisoners ashore;
and it being now the beginning of November we concluded to go to
Curacao to sell our sugar, if favoured by westerly winds, which
were now come in.

DUTCH ISLE OF CURACAO, ETC.

We sailed from thence, having fair weather and winds to our
mind, which brought us to Curacao, a Dutch island. Captain Wright
went ashore to the governor, and offered him the sale of the
sugar: but the governor told him he had a great trade with the
Spaniards, therefore he could not admit us in there; but if we
could go to St. Thomas, which is an island and free port
belonging to the Danes, and a sanctuary for privateers, he would
send a sloop with such goods as we wanted, and money to buy the
sugar, which he would take at a certain rate; but it was not
agreed to.

Curacao is the only island of importance that the Dutch have
in the West Indies. It is about 5 leagues in length, and may be 9
or 10 in circumference: the northermost point is laid down in
north latitude 12 degrees 40 minutes, and it is about 7 or 8
leagues from the main, near Cape Roman. On the south side of the
east end is a good harbour called Santa Barbara; but the chiefest
harbour is about 3 leagues from the south-east end, on the south
side of it where the Dutch have a very good town and a very
strong fort. Ships bound in thither must be sure to keep close to
the harbour's mouth, and have a hawser or rope ready to send one
end ashore to the fort: for there is no anchoring at the entrance
of the harbour, and the current always sets to the westward. But
being got in, it is a very secure port for ships, either to
careen or lie safe. At the east end are two hills, one of them is
much higher than the other, and steepest towards the north side.
The rest of the island is indifferent level; where of late some
rich men have made sugar-works; which formerly was all pasture
for cattle: there are also some small plantations of potatoes and
yams, and they have still a great many cattle on the island; but
it is not so much esteemed for its produce as for its situation
for the trade with the Spaniard. Formerly the harbour was never
without ships from Cartagena and Portobello that did use to buy
of the Dutch 1000 or 1500 Negroes at once, besides great
quantities of European commodities; but of late that trade is
fallen into the hands of the English at Jamaica: yet still the
Dutch have a vast trade over all the West Indies, sending from
Holland ships of good force laden with European goods, whereby
they make very profitable returns. The Dutch have two other
islands here, but of little moment in comparison of Curacao; the
one lies 7 or 8 leagues to the westward of Curacao, called Aruba;
the other 9 or 10 leagues to the eastward of it, called Bonaire.
From these islands the Dutch fetch in sloops provision for
Curacao to maintain their garrison and Negroes. I was never at
Aruba, therefore cannot say anything of it as to my own
knowledge; but by report it is much like Bonaire, which I shall
describe, only not so big. Between Curacao and Bonaire is a small
island called Little Curacao, it is not above a league from Great
Curacao. The king of France has long had an eye on Curacao and
made some attempts to take it, but never yet succeeded. I have
heard that about 23 or 24 years since the governor had sold it to
the French, but died a small time before the fleet came to demand
it, and by his death that design failed.

COUNT D'ESTREE'S UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION THITHER.

Afterwards, in the year 1678, the Count D'Estree, who a year
before had taken the isle of Tobago from the Dutch, was sent
thither also with a squadron of stout ships, very well manned,
and fitted with bombs and carcasses; intending to take it by
storm. This fleet first came to Martinique; where, while they
stayed, orders were sent to Petit Guavres for all privateers to
repair thither and assist the count in his design. There were but
two privateers' ships that went thither to him, which were manned
partly with French, partly with Englishmen. These set out with
the count; but in their way to Curacao the whole fleet was lost
on a reef, or ridge of rocks, that runs off from the isle of
Aves; not above two ships escaping, one of which was one of the
privateers; and so that design perished.

ISLE OF BONAIRE.

Wherefore, not driving a bargain for our sugar with the
governor of Curacao, we went from thence to Bonaire, another
Dutch island, where we met a Dutch sloop come from Europe, laden
with Irish beef; which we bought in exchange for some of our
sugar.

Bonaire is the eastermost of the Dutch islands, and is the
largest of the three, though not the most considerable. The
middle of the island is laid down in latitude 12 degrees 16
minutes. It is about 20 leagues from the Main, and 9 or 10 from
Curacao, and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round. The road is on
the south-west side, near the middle of the island; where there
is a pretty deep bay runs in. Ships that come from the eastward
luff up close to the eastern shore: and let go their anchor in 60
fathom water, within half a cable's length of the shore. But at
the same time they must be ready with a boat to carry a hawser or
rope, and make it fast ashore; otherwise, when the land-wind
comes in the night, the ship would drive off to sea again; for
the ground is so steep that no anchor can hold if once it starts.
About half a mile to the westward of this anchoring-place there
is a small low island, and a channel between it and the main
island.

The houses are about half a mile within land, right in the
road: there is a governor lives here, a Deputy to the governor of
Curacao, and 7 or 8 soldiers, with 5 or 6 families of Indians.
There is no fort; and the soldiers in peaceable times have little
to do but to eat and sleep, for they never watch but in time of
war. The Indians are husbandmen, and plant maize and guinea-corn,
and some yams, and potatoes: but their chiefest business is about
cattle: for this island is plentifully stocked with goats: and
they send great quantities every year in salt to Curacao. There
are some horses, and bulls and cows; but I never saw any sheep,
though I have been all over the island. The south side is plain
low land, and there are several sorts of trees, but none very
large. There is a small spring of water by the houses, which
serves the inhabitants, though it is blackish. At the west end of
the island there is a good spring of fresh water, and three or
four Indian families live there, but no water nor houses at any
other place. On the south side near the east end is a good salt
pond where Dutch sloops come for salt.

ISLE OF AVES, THE BOOBY AND MAN-OF-WAR-BIRD.

From Bonaire we went to the isle of Aves, or Birds; so called
from its great plenty of birds, as men-of-war and boobies; but
especially boobies. The booby is a waterfowl, somewhat less than
a hen, of a light grayish colour. I observed the boobies of this
island to be whiter than others. This bird has a strong bill,
longer and bigger than a crow's and broader at the end: her feet
are flat like a duck's feet. It is a very simple creature and
will hardly go out of a man's way. In other places they build
their nests on the ground, but here they build on trees; which I
never saw anywhere else; though I have seen of them in a great
many places. Their flesh is black and eats fishy, but are often
eaten by the privateers. Their numbers have been much lessened by
the French fleet which was lost here, as I shall give an
account.

The man-of-war (as it is called by the English) is about the
bigness of a kite, and in shape like it, but black; and the neck
is red. It lives on fish, yet never lights on the water, but
soars aloft like a kite, and when it sees its prey it flies down
head foremost to the water's edge very swiftly, takes its prey
out of the sea with its bill, and immediately mounts again as
swiftly, and never touching the water with his bill. His wings
are very long; his feet are like other land-fowl, and he builds
on trees where he finds any; but where they are wanting, on the
ground.

This island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the eastward of
the island Bonaire, about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main, and
about the latitude of 11 degrees 45 minutes north. It is but
small, not above four mile in length, and towards the east end
not half a mile broad. On the north side it is low land, commonly
overflown with the tide; but on the south side there is a great
rocky bank of coral thrown up by the sea. The west end is, for
near a mile space, plain even savannah land, without any trees.
There are 2 or 3 wells dug by privateers, who often frequent this
island, because there is a good harbour about the middle of it on
the north side where they may conveniently careen. The reef or
bank of rocks on which the French fleet was lost, as I mentioned
above, runs along from the east end to the northward about 3
mile, then trends away to the westward, making as it were a half
moon. This reef breaks off all the sea, and there is good riding
in even sandy ground to the westward of it. There are 2 or 3
small low sandy keys or islands within this reef, about 3 miles
from the main island.

THE WRECK OF D'ESTREE'S FLEET, AND CAPTAIN PAIN'S ADVENTURE
HERE.

The Count d'Estree lost his fleet here in this manner. Coming
from the eastward, he fell in on the back of the reef, and fired
guns to give warning to the rest of his fleet: but they supposing
their admiral was engaged with enemies, hoisted up their
topsails, and crowded all the sails they could make, and ran full
sail ashore after him; all within half a mile of each other. For
his light being in the main-top was an unhappy beacon for them to
follow; and there escaped but one king's ship and one privateer.
The ships continued whole all day, and the men had time enough,
most of them, to get ashore, yet many perished in the wreck; and
many of those that got safe on the island, for want of being
accustomed to such hardships, died like rotten sheep. But the
privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily,
from whom I had this relation: and they told me that if they had
gone to Jamaica with 30 pounds a man in their pockets, they could
not have enjoyed themselves more: for they kept in a gang by
themselves, and watched when the ships broke, to get the goods
that came from them, and though much was staved against the
rocks, yet abundance of wine and brandy floated over the reef,
where the privateers waited to take it up. They lived here about
three weeks, waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back
again to Hispaniola; in all which time they were never without
two or three hogsheads of wine and brandy in their tents, and
barrels of beef and pork; which they could live on without bread
well enough, though the newcomers out of France could not. There
were about forty Frenchmen on board in one of the ships where
there was good store of liquor, till the after-part of her broke
away and floated over the reef, and was carried away to sea, with
all the men drinking and singing, who being in drink, did not
mind the danger, but were never heard of afterwards.

In a short time after this great shipwreck Captain Pain,
commander of a privateer of six guns, had a pleasant accident
befall him at this island. He came hither to careen, intending to
fit himself very well; for here lay driven on the island masts,
yards, timbers, and many things that he wanted, therefore he
hauled into the harbour, close to the island, and unrigged his
ship. Before he had done a Dutch ship of twenty guns was sent
from Curacao to take up the guns that were lost on the reef: but
seeing a ship in the harbour, and knowing her to be a French
privateer, they thought to take her first, and came within a mile
of her, and began to fire at her, intending to warp in the next
day, for it is very narrow going in. Captain Pain got ashore some
of his guns, and did what he could to resist them; though he did
in a manner conclude he must be taken. But while his men were
thus busied he spied a Dutch sloop turning to get into the road,
and saw her at the evening anchor at the west end of the island.
This gave him some hope of making his escape; which he did by
sending two canoes in the night aboard the sloop, who took her,
and got considerable purchase in her; and he went away in her,
making a good reprisal and leaving his own empty ship to the
Dutch man-of-war.

LITTLE ISLE OF AVES.

There is another island to the eastward of the isle of Aves
about four league, called by privateers the little isle of Aves,
which is overgrown with mangrove-trees. I have seen it but was
never on it. There are no inhabitants that I could learn on
either of these islands, but boobies and a few other birds.

Whilst we were at the isle of Aves we careened Captain
Wright's bark and scrubbed the sugar-prize, and got two guns out
of the wrecks; continuing here till the beginning of February
1681/2.

We went from hence to the isles Los Roques to careen the
sugar-prize, which the isle of Aves was not a place so convenient
for. Accordingly we hauled close to one of the small islands and
got our guns ashore the first thing we did, and built a
breast-work on the point, and planted all our guns there to
hinder an enemy from coming to us while we lay on the careen:
then we made a house and covered it with our sails to put our
goods and provisions in. While we lay here, a French man-of-war
of 36 guns came through the keys or little islands; to whom we
sold about 10 tun of sugar. I was aboard twice or thrice, and
very kindly welcomed both by the captain and his lieutenant, who
was a cavalier of Malta; and they both offered me great
encouragement in France if I would go with them; but I ever
designed to continue with those of my own nation.

THE ISLES LOS ROQUES, THE NODDY AND TROPIC-BIRD, MINERAL
WATER, EGG-BIRDS; THE MANGROVE-TREES, BLACK, RED, AND WHITE, ISLE
OF TORTUGA, ITS SALT PONDS.

The islands Los Roques are a parcel of small uninhabited
islands lying about the latitude of 11 degrees 40 minutes about
15 or 16 leagues from the Main, and about 20 leagues north-west
by west from Tortuga, and 6 or 7 leagues to the westward of
Orchilla, another island lying about the same distance from the
Main; which island I have seen, but was never at it. Los Roques
stretch themselves east and west about 5 leagues, and their
breadth about 3 leagues. The northernmost of these islands is the
most remarkable by reason of a high white rocky hill at the west
end of it, which may be seen a great way; and on it there are
abundance of tropic-birds, men-of-war, booby and noddies, which
breed there. The booby and man-of-war I have described already.
The noddy is a small black bird, about the bigness of the English
blackbird, and indifferent good meat. They build in rocks. We
never find them far off from shore. I have seen of them in other
places, but never saw any of their nests but in this island,
where there is great plenty of them. The tropic-bird is as big as
a pigeon but round and plump like a partridge. They are all
white, except two or three feathers in each wing of a light grey.
Their bills are of a yellowish colour, thick and short. They have
one long feather, or rather a quill about 7 inches long, grows
out at the rump, which is all the tail they have. They are never
seen far without either Tropic, for which reason they are called
tropic-birds. They are very good food, and we meet with them a
great way at sea, and I never saw of them anywhere but at sea and
in this island, where they build and are found in great
plenty.

By the sea on the south side of that high hill there's fresh
water comes out of the rocks, but so slowly that it yield not
above 40 gallons in 24 hours, and it tastes so copperish, or
aluminous rather, and rough in the mouth, that it seems very
unpleasant at first drinking: but after two or three days any
water will seem to have no taste.

The middle of this island is low plain land, overgrown with
long grass, where there are multitudes of small grey fowls no
bigger than a blackbird, yet lay eggs bigger than a magpie's; and
they are therefore by privateers called egg-birds. The east end
of the island is overgrown with black mangrove-trees.

There are three sorts of mangrove-trees, black, red and white.
The black mangrove is the largest tree; the body about as big as
an oak, and about 20 feet high. It is very hard and serviceable
timber, but extraordinary heavy, therefore not much made use of
for building. The red mangrove grows commonly by the seaside, or
by rivers or creeks. The body is not so big as that of the black
mangrove, but always grows out of many roots about the bigness of
a man's leg, some bigger some less, which at about 6, 8, or 10
foot above the ground join into one trunk or body that seems to
be supported by so many artificial stakes. Where this sort of
tree grows it is impossible to march by reason of these stakes,
which grow so mixed one amongst another that I have, when forced
to go through them, gone half a mile, and never set my foot on
the ground, stepping from root to root. The timber is hard and
good for many uses. The inside of the bark is red, and it is used
for tanning of leather very much all over the West Indies. The
white mangrove never grows so big as the other two sorts, neither
is it of any great use: of the young trees privateers use to make
loom, or handles for their oars, for it is commonly straight, but
not very strong, which is the fault of them. Neither the black
nor white mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots
as the red does; but the body immediately out of the ground, like
other trees.

The land of this east end is light sand which is sometimes
overflown with the sea at spring tides. The road for ships is on
the south side against the middle of the island. The rest of the
islands of Los Roques are low. The next to this on the south side
is but small, flat, and even, without trees, bearing only grass.
On the south side of it is a pond of brackish water which
sometimes privateers use instead of better; there is likewise
good riding by it. About a league from this are two other
islands, not 200 yards distant from each other; yet a deep
channel for ships to pass through. They are both overgrown with
red mangrove-trees; which trees, above any of the mangroves, do
flourish best in wet drowned land, such as these two islands are;
only the east point of the westermost island is dry sand, without
tree or bush. On this point we careened, lying on the south side
of it.

The other islands are low, and have red mangroves and other
trees on them. Here also ships may ride, but no such place for
careening as where we lay, because at that place ships may haul
close to the shore; and, if they had but four guns on the point,
may secure the channel, and hinder any enemy from coming near
them. I observed that within among the islands was good riding in
many places, but not without the islands, except to the westward
or south-west of them. For on the east or north-east of these
islands the common trade-wind blows, and makes a great sea: and
to the southward of them there is no ground under 70, or 80, or
100 fathom, close by the land.

After we had filled what water we could from hence we set out
again in April 1682 and came to Salt Tortuga, so called to
distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas, near Cape
Florida, and from the isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola, which was
called formerly French Tortugas; though, not having heard any
mention of that name a great while, I am apt to think it is
swallowed up in that of Petit Guavres, the chief garrison the
French have in those parts. This island we arrived at is pretty
large, uninhabited, and abounds with salt. It is in latitude 11
degrees north, and lies west and a little northerly from
Margarita, an island inhabited by the Spaniards, strong and
wealthy; it is distant from it about 14 leagues, and 17 or 18
from Cape Blanco on the Main: a ship being within these islands a
little to the southward may see at once the Main, Magarita and
Tortuga when it is clear weather. The east end of Tortuga is full
of rugged, bare, broken rocks which stretch themselves a little
way out to sea. At the south-east part is an indifferent good
road for ships, much frequented in peaceable times by
merchant-ships that come thither to lade salt in the months of
May, June, July, and August. For at the east end is a large salt
pond, within 200 paces of the sea. The salt begins to kern or
grain in April, except it is a dry season; for it is observed
that rain makes the salt kern. I have seen above 20 sail at a
time in this road come to lade salt; and these ships coming from
some of the Caribbean Islands are always well stored with rum,
sugar and lime-juice to make punch, to hearten their men when
they are at work, getting and bringing aboard the salt; and they
commonly provide the more, in hopes to meet with privateers who
resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a
Christmas, as they call it; being sure to meet with liquor enough
to be merry with, and are very liberal to those that treat them.
Near the west end of the island, on the south side, there is a
small harbour and some fresh water: that end of the island is
full of shrubby trees, but the east end is rocky and barren as to
trees, producing only coarse grass. There are some goats on it,
but not many; and turtle or tortoise come upon the sandy bays to
lay their eggs, and from thence the island has its name. There is
no riding anywhere but in the roads where the salt ponds are, or
in the harbour.

ISLE OF BLANCO; THE IGUANA ANIMAL, THEIR VARIETY; AND THE BEST
SEA-TORTOISE.

At this isle we thought to have sold our sugar among the
English ships that come hither for salt; but, failing there, we
designed for Trinidad, an island near the Main, inhabited by the
Spaniards, tolerably strong and wealthy; but, the current and
easterly winds hindering us, we passed through between Margarita
and the Main, and went to Blanco, a pretty large island almost
north of Margarita; about 30 leagues from the Main, and in 11
degrees 50 minutes north latitude. It is a flat, even, low,
uninhabited island, dry and healthy: most savannah of long grass,
and has some trees of lignum-vitae growing in spots, with shrubby
bushes of other wood about them. It is plentifully stored with
iguanas, which are an animal like a lizard, but much bigger. The
body is as big as the small of a man's leg, and from the
hindquarter the tail grows tapering to the end, which is very
small. If a man takes hold of the tail, except very near the
hindquarter, it will part and break off in one of the joints, and
the iguana will get away. They lay eggs, as most of those
amphibious creatures do, and are very good to eat. Their flesh is
much esteemed by privateers, who commonly dress them for their
sick men; for they make very good broth. They are of divers
colours, as almost black, dark brown, light brown, dark green,
light green, yellow and speckled. They all live as well in the
water as on land, and some of them are constantly in the water,
and among rocks: these are commonly black. Others that live in
swampy wet ground are commonly on bushes and trees, these are
green. But such as live in dry ground, as here at Blanco, are
commonly yellow; yet these also will live in the water, and are
sometimes on trees. The road is on the north-west end against a
small cove, or little sandy bay. There is no riding anywhere
else, for it is deep water, and steep close to the land. There is
one small spring on the west side, and there are sandy bays round
the island, where turtle or tortoise come up in great abundance,
going ashore in the night. These that frequent this island are
called green turtle, and they are the best of that sort, both for
largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies. I would
here give a particular description of these and other sorts of
turtle in these seas; but because I shall have occasion to
mention some other sort of turtle when I come again into the
South Seas, that are very different from all these, I shall there
give a general account of all these several sorts at once, that
the difference between them may be the better discerned. Some of
our modern descriptions speak of goats on this island. I know not
what there may have been formerly, but there are none now to my
certain knowledge; for myself, and many more of our crew, have
been all over it.

MODERN ALTERATIONS IN THE WEST INDIES.

Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last
age, as well in places themselves as in their owners, and
commodities of them; particularly Nombre de Dios, a city once
famous, and which still retains a considerable name in some late
accounts, is now nothing but a name. For I have lain ashore in
the place where that city stood; but it is all overgrown with
wood, so as to leave no sign that any town has been there.

THE COAST OF CARACAS, ITS REMARKABLE LAND, AND PRODUCT OF THE
BEST COCOA-NUTS.

We stayed at the isle of Blanco not above ten days, and then
went back to Salt Tortuga again, where Captain Yankes parted with
us: and from thence, after about four days, all which time our
men were drunk and quarrelling, we in Captain Wright's ship went
to the coast of Caracas on the mainland. This coast is upon
several accounts very remarkable: it is a continued tract of high
ridges of hills and small valleys intermixed for about 20
leagues, stretching east and west but in such manner that the
ridges of hills and the valleys alternately run pointing upon the
shore from south to north: the valleys are some of them about 4
or 5, others not above 1 or 2 furlongs wide, and in length from
the sea scarce any of them above 4 or 5 mile at most; there being
a long ridge of mountains at that distance from the sea-coast,
and in a manner parallel to it, that joins those shorter ridges,
and closes up the south end of the valleys, which at the north
ends of them lie open to the sea, and make so many little sandy
bays that are the only landing-places on the coast. Both the main
ridge and these shorter ribs are very high land, so that 3 or 4
leagues off at sea the valleys scarce appear to the eye, but all
look like one great mountain. From the isles of Los Roques about
15, and from the isle of Aves about 20 leagues off, we see this
coast very plain from on board our ships, yet when at anchor on
this coast we cannot see those Isles; though again from the tops
of these hills they appear as if at no great distance, like so
many hillocks in a pond. These hills are barren, except the lower
sides of them that are covered with some of the same rich black
mould that fills the valleys, and is as good as I have seen. In
some of the valleys there's a strong red clay, but in the general
they are extremely fertile, well-watered, and inhabited by
Spaniards and their Negroes. They have maize and plantains for
their support, with Indian fowls and some hogs.

THE COCOA DESCRIBED AT LARGE, WITH THE HUSBANDRY OF IT.

But the main product of these valleys, and indeed the only
commodity it vends, are the cocoa-nuts, of which the chocolate is
made. The cocoa-tree grows nowhere in the North Seas but in the
Bay of Campeachy, on Costa Rica, between Portobello and
Nicaragua, chiefly up Carpenter's River; and on this coast as
high as the isle of Trinidad. In the South Seas it grows in the
river of Guayaquil, a little to the southward of the Line, and in
the valley of Colima, on the south side of the continent of
Mexico; both which places I shall hereafter describe. Besides
these I am confident there's no places in the world where the
cocoa grows, except those in Jamaica, of which there are now but
few remaining, of many and large walks or plantations of them
found there by the English at their first arrival, and since
planted by them; and even these, though there is a great deal of
pains and care bestowed on them, yet seldom come to anything,
being generally blighted. The nuts of this coast of Caracas,
though less than those of Costa Rica, which are large flat nuts,
yet are better and fatter, in my opinion, being so very oily that
we are forced to use water in rubbing them up; and the Spaniards
that live here, instead of parching them to get off the shell
before they pound or rub them to make chocolate, do in a manner
burn them to dry up the oil; for else, they say, it would fill
them too full of blood, drinking chocolate as they do five or six
times a day. My worthy consort Mr. Ringrose commends most the
Guayaquil nut; I presume because he had little knowledge of the
rest; for, being intimately acquainted with him, I know the
course of his travels and experience: but I am persuaded, had he
known the rest so well as I pretend to have done, who have at
several times been long used to, and in a manner lived upon all
the several sorts of them above mentioned, he would prefer the
Caracas nuts before any other; yet possibly the drying up of
these nuts so much by the Spaniards here, as I said, may lessen
their esteem with those Europeans that use their chocolate ready
rubbed up: so that we always chose to make it up ourselves.

The cocoa-tree has a body about a foot and a half thick (the
largest sort) and 7 or 8 foot high, to the branches, which are
large and spreading like an oak, with a pretty thick, smooth,
dark green leaf, shaped like that of a plum-tree, but larger. The
nuts are enclosed in cods as big as both a man's fists put
together: at the broad end of which there is a small, tough,
limber stalk, by which they hang pendulous from the body of the
tree, in all parts of it from top to bottom, scattered at
irregular distances, and from the greater branches a little way
up; especially at the joints of them or partings, where they hang
thickest, but never on the smaller boughs. There may be
ordinarily about 20 or 30 of these cods upon a well-bearing tree;
and they have two crops of them in a year, one in December, but
the best in June. The cod itself or shell is almost half an inch
thick; neither spongy nor woody, but of a substance between both,
brittle, yet harder than the rind of a lemon; like which its
surface is grained or knobbed, but more coarse and unequal. The
cods at first are of a dark green, but the side of them next the
sun of a muddy red. As they grow ripe, the green turns to a fine
bright yellow, and the muddy to a more lively, beautiful red,
very pleasant to the eye. They neither ripen nor are gathered at
once: but for three weeks or a month when the season is the
overseers of the plantations go every day about to see which are
turned yellow; cutting at once, it may be, not above one from a
tree. The cods thus gathered they lay in several heaps to sweat,
and then, bursting the shell with their hands, they pull out the
nuts which are the only substance they contain, having no stalk
or pith among them, and (excepting that these nuts lie in regular
rows) are placed like the grains of maize, but sticking together,
and so closely stowed that, after they have been once separated,
it would be hard to place them again in so narrow a compass.
There are generally near 100 nuts in a cod; in proportion to the
greatness of which, for it varies, the nuts are bigger or less.
When taken out they dry them in the sun upon mats spread on the
ground: after which they need no more care, having a thin hard
skin of their own, and much oil, which preserves them. Salt water
will not hurt them; for we had our bags rotten, lying in the
bottom of our ship, and yet the nuts never the worse. They raise
the young trees of nuts set with the great end downward in fine
black mould, and in the same places where they are to bear; which
they do in 4 or 5 years' time, without the trouble of
transplanting. There are ordinarily of these trees from 500 to
2000 and upward in a plantation or cocoa-walk, as they call them;
and they shelter the young trees from the weather with plantains
set about them for two or three years; destroying all the
plantains by such time the cocoa-trees are of a pretty good body
and able to endure the heat; which I take to be the most
pernicious to them of anything; for, though these valleys lie
open to the north winds, unless a little sheltered here and there
by some groves of plantain-trees, which are purposely set near
the shores of the several bays, yet, by all that I could either
observe or learn, the cocoas in this country are never blighted,
as I have often known them to be in other places. Cocoa-nuts are
used as money in the Bay of Campeachy.

CITY OF CARACAS.

The chief town of this country is called Caracas; a good way
within land, it is a large wealthy place, where live most of the
owners of these cocoa-walks that are in the valleys by the shore;
the plantations being managed by overseers and Negroes. It is in
a large savannah country that abounds with cattle; and a Spaniard
of my acquaintance, a very sensible man who has been there, tells
me that it is very populous, and he judges it to be three times
as big as Corunna in Galicia. The way to it is very steep and
craggy, over that ridge of hills which I say closes up the
valleys and partition hills of the cocoa coast.

LA GUAIRE FORT AND HAVEN.

In this coast itself the chief place is La Guaira, a good town
close by the sea; and, though it has but a bad harbour, yet it is
much frequented by the Spanish shipping; for the Dutch and
English anchor in the sandy bays that lie here and there, in the
mouths of several valleys, and where there is very good riding.
The town is open, but has a strong fort; yet both were taken some
years since by Captain Wright and his privateers. It is seated
about 4 or 5 leagues to the westward of Cape Blanco, which cape
is the eastermost boundary of this coast of Caracas. Further
eastward about 20 leagues is a great lake or branch of the sea
called Laguna de Venezuela; about which are many rich towns, but
the mouth of the lake is shallow, that no ship can enter.

TOWN OF CUMANA.

Near this mouth is a place called Cumana where the privateers
were once repulsed without daring to attempt it any more, being
the only place in the North Seas they attempted in vain for many
years; and the Spaniards since throw it in their teeth
frequently, as a word of reproach or defiance to them.

VERINA, ITS FAMOUS BEST SPANISH TOBACCO.

Not far from that place is Verina, a small village and Spanish
plantation, famous for its tobacco, reputed the best in the
world.

But to return to Caracas, all this coast is subject to dry
winds, generally north-east, which caused us to have scabby lips;
and we always found it thus, and that in different seasons of the
year, for I have been on this coast several times. In other
respects it is very healthy, and a sweet clear air. The Spaniards
have lookouts or scouts on the hills, and breast-works in the
valleys, and most of their Negroes are furnished with arms also
for defence of the bays.

THE RICH TRADE OF THE COAST OF CARACAS.

The Dutch have a very profitable trade here almost to
themselves. I have known three or four great ships at a time on
the coast, each it may be of thirty or forty guns. They carry
hither all sorts of European commodities, especially linen;
making vast returns, chiefly in silver and cocoa. And I have
often wondered and regretted it that none of my own countrymen
find the way thither directly from England; for our Jamaica men
trade thither indeed, and find the sweet of it, though they carry
English commodities at second or third hand.

While we lay on this coast, we went ashore in some of the
bays, and took 7 or 8 tun of cocoa; and after that 3 barks, one
laden with hides, the second with European commodities, the third
with earthenware and brandy. With these 3 barks we went again to
the island of Los Roques, where we shared our commodities and
separated, having vessels enough to transport us all whither we
thought most convenient. Twenty of us (for we were about 60) took
one of the vessels and our share of the goods, and went directly
for Virginia.

OF THE SUCKING FISH, OR REMORA.

In our way thither we took several of the sucking-fishes: for
when we see them about the ship, we cast out a line and hook, and
they will take it with any manner of bait, whether fish or flesh.
The sucking-fish is about the bigness of a large whiting, and
much of the same make towards the tail, but the head is flatter.
From the head to the middle of its back there grows a sort of
flesh of a hard gristly substance like that of the limpet (a
shellfish tapering up pyramidically) which sticks to the rocks;
or like the head or mouth of a shell-snail, but harder. This
excrescence is of a flat and oval form, about seven or eight
inches long and five or six broad; and rising about half an inch
high. It is full of small ridges with which it will fasten itself
to anything that it meets with in the sea, just as a snail does
to a wall. When any of them happen to come about a ship they
seldom leave her, for they will feed on such filth as is daily
thrown overboard, or on mere excrements. When it is fair weather,
and but little wind, they will play about the ship; but in
blustering weather, or when the ship sails quick, they commonly
fasten themselves to the ship's bottom, from whence neither the
ship's motion, though never so swift, nor the most tempestuous
sea can remove them. They will likewise fasten themselves to any
other bigger fish; for they never swim fast themselves if they
meet with anything to carry them. I have found them sticking to a
shark after it was hauled in on the deck, though a shark is so
strong and boisterous a fish, and throws about him so vehemently
for half an hour together, it may be, when caught, that did not
the sucking-fish stick at no ordinary rate, it must needs be cast
off by so much violence. It is usual also to see them sticking to
turtle, to any old trees, planks, or the like, that lie driven at
sea. Any knobs or inequalities at a ship's bottom are a great
hindrance to the swiftness of its sailing; and 10 or 12 of these
sticking to it must needs retard it as much, in a manner, as if
its bottom were foul. So that I am inclined to think that this
fish is the remora, of which the ancients tell such stories; if
it be not I know no other that is, and I leave the reader to
judge. I have seen of these sucking-fishes in great plenty in the
Bay of Campeachy and in all the sea between that and the coast of
Caracas, as about those islands particularly I have lately
described, Los Roques, Blanco, Tortugas, etc. They have no
scales, and are very good meat.

THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL IN VIRGINIA.

We met nothing else worth remark in our voyage to Virginia,
where we arrived in July 1682. That country is so well known to
our nation that I shall say nothing of it, nor shall I detain the
reader with the story of my own affairs, and the trouble that
befell me during about thirteen months of my stay there; but in
the next chapter enter immediately upon my second voyage into the
South Seas, and round the globe.

Chapter IV

The Author's Voyage to the Isle of Juan Fernandez in the South Seas.

Being now entering upon the relation of a new voyage which
makes up the main body of this book, proceeding from Virginia by
the way of Tierra del Fuego, and the South Seas, the East Indies,
and so on, till my return to England by the way of the Cape of
Good Hope, I shall give my reader this short account of my first
entrance upon it. Among those who accompanied Captain Sharp into
the South Seas in our former expedition, and leaving him there,
returned overland, as is said in the Introduction and in the 1st
and 2nd chapters there was one Mr. Cook, an English native of St.
Christopher's, a Cirole, as we call all born of European parents
in the West Indies. He was a sensible man, and had been some
years a privateer. At our joining ourselves with those
privateers, we met at our coming again to the North Seas; his lot
was to be with Captain Yankes, who kept company for some
considerable time with Captain Wright, in whose ship I was, and
parted with us at our 2nd anchoring at the isle of Tortugas; as I
have said in the last chapter. After our parting, this Mr. Cook
being quartermaster under Captain Yankes, the second place in the
ship according to the law of privateers, laid claim to a ship
they took from the Spaniards; and such of Captain Yankes's men as
were so disposed, particularly all those who came with us
overland, went aboard this prize-ship under the new Captain Cook.
This distribution was made at the isle of Vacca, or the isle of
Ash, as we call it; and here they parted also such goods as they
had taken. But Captain Cook having no commission, as Captain
Yankes, Captain Tristian, and some other French commanders had,
who lay then at that island, and they grudging the English such a
vessel, they all joined together, plundered the English of their
ships, goods, and arms, and turned them ashore. Yet Captain
Tristian took in about 8 or 10 of these English, and carried them
with him to Petit Guavres: of which number Captain Cook was one,
and Captain Davis another, who with the rest found means to seize
the ship as she lay at anchor in the road, Captain Tristian and
many of his men being then ashore: and the English sending ashore
such Frenchmen as remained in the ship and were mastered by them,
though superior in number, stood away with her immediately for
the isle of Vacca before any notice of this surprise could reach
the French governor of that isle; so, deceiving him also by a
stratagem, they got on board the rest of their countrymen who had
been left on that island; and going thence they took a ship newly
come from France laden with wines. They also took a ship of good
force, in which they resolved to embark themselves, and make a
new expedition into the South Seas, to cruise on the coast of
Chile and Peru. But first they went for Virginia with their
prizes; where they arrived the April after my coming thither. The
best of their prizes carried 18 guns; this they fitted up there
with sails, and everything necessary for so long a voyage;
selling the wines they had taken for such provisions as they
wanted. Myself and those of our fellow-travellers over the
Isthmus of America who came with me to Virginia the year before
this (most of which had since made a short voyage to Carolina,
and were again returned to Virginia) resolved to join ourselves
to these new adventurers: and as many more engaged in the same
design as made our whole crew consist of about 70 men. So, having
furnished ourselves with necessary materials, and agreed upon
some particular rules, especially of temperance and sobriety, by
reason of the length of our intended voyage, we all went on board
our ship.

August 23 1683 we sailed from Achamack in Virginia under the
command of Captain Cook bound for the South Seas. I shall not
trouble the reader with an account of every day's run, but hasten
to the less known parts of the world to give a description of
them; only relating such memorable accidents as happened to us
and such places as we touched at by the way.

HE ARRIVES AT THE ISLES OF CAPE VERDE.

We met nothing worth observation till we came to the Islands
of Cape Verde, excepting a terrible storm which we could not
escape: this happened in a few days after we left Virginia; with
a south-south-east wind just in our teeth. The storm lasted above
a week: it drenched us all like so many drowned rats, and was one
of the worst storms I ever was in. One I met with in the East
Indies was more violent for the time; but of not above 24 hours
continuance.

ISLE OF SAL; ITS SALT PONDS.

After that storm we had favourable winds and good weather; and
in a short time we arrived at the island Sal, which is one of the
eastermost of the Cape Verde Islands. Of these there are 10 in
number (so considerable as to bear distinct names) and they lie
several degrees off from Cape Verde in Africa, whence they
receive that appellation; taking up about 5 degrees of longitude
in breadth, and about as many of latitude in their length,
namely, from near 14 to 19 north. They are most inhabited by
Portuguese banditti. This of Sal is an island lying in the
latitude of 16, in longitude 19 degrees 33 minutes west from the
Lizard in England, stretching from north to south about 8 or 9
leagues, and not above a league and a half or two leagues wide.
It has its name from the abundance of salt that is naturally
congealed there, the whole island being full of large salt ponds.
The land is very barren, producing no tree that I could see, but
some small shrubby bushes by the seaside. Neither could I discern
any grass; yet there are some poor goats on it.

THE FLAMINGO, AND ITS REMARKABLE NEST.

I know not whether there are any other beasts on the island:
there are some wildfowl, but I judge not many. I saw a few
flamingos, which is a sort of large fowl, much like a heron in
shape, but bigger, and of a reddish colour. They delight to keep
together in great companies, and feed in mud or ponds, or in such
places where there is not much water: they are very shy,
therefore it is hard to shoot them. Yet I have lain obscured in
the evening near a place where they resort, and with two more in
my company have killed 14 of them at once; the first shot being
made while they were standing on the ground, the other two as
they rose. They build their nests in shallow ponds where there is
much mud, which they scrape together, making little hillocks like
small islands appearing out of the water a foot and a half high
from the bottom. They make the foundation of these hillocks
broad, bringing them up tapering to the top, where they leave a
small hollow pit to lay their eggs in; and when they either lay
their eggs or hatch them they stand all the while, not on the
hillock but close by it with their legs on the ground and in the
water, resting themselves against the hillock and covering the
hollow nest upon it with their rumps: for their legs are very
long; and building thus, as they do, upon the ground, they could
neither draw their legs conveniently into their nests, nor sit
down upon them otherwise than by resting their whole bodies
there, to the prejudice of their eggs or their young, were it not
for this admirable contrivance which they have by natural
instinct. They never lay more than two eggs and seldom fewer. The
young ones cannot fly till they are almost full-grown; but will
run prodigiously fast; yet we have taken many of them. The flesh
of both young and old is lean and black, yet very good meat,
tasting neither fishy nor any way unsavoury. Their tongues are
large, having a large knob of fat at the root, which is an
excellent bit: a dish of flamingo's tongues being fit for a
prince's table.

When many of them are standing together by a pond's side,
being half a mile distant from a man, they appear to him like a
brick wall; their feathers being of the colour of new red brick:
and they commonly stand upright and single, one by one, exactly
in a row (except when feeding) and close by each other. The young
ones at first are of a light grey; and as their wing-feathers
spring out they grow darker; and never come to their right
colour, or any beautiful shape, under ten or eleven months old. I
have seen flamingoes at Rio la Hacha, and at an island lying near
the Main of America, right against Curacao, called by privateers
Flamingo Key, from the multitude of these fowls that breed there:
and I never saw of their nests and young but here.

There are not above 5 or 6 men on this island of Sal, and a
poor governor, as they called him, who came aboard in our boat,
and about 3 or 4 poor lean goats for a present to our captain,
telling him they were the best that the island did afford. The
captain, minding more the poverty of the giver than the value of
the present, gave him in requital a coat to clothe him; for he
had nothing but a few rags on his back and an old hat not worth
three farthings; which yet I believe he wore but seldom, for fear
he should want before he might get another; for he told us there
had not been a ship in 3 years before. We bought of him about 20
bushels of salt for a few old clothes: and he begged a little
powder and shot. We stayed here 3 days; in which time one of
these Portuguese offered to some of our men a lump of ambergris
in exchange for some clothes, desiring them to keep it secret,
for he said if the governor should know it he should be hanged.
At length one Mr. Coppinger bought for a small matter; yet I
believe he gave more than it was worth.

AMBERGRIS WHERE FOUND.

We had not a man in the ship that knew ambergris; but I have
since seen it in other places, and therefore am certain it was
not right. It was of a dark colour, like sheep dung, and very
soft, but of no smell, and possibly it was some of their goat's
dung. I afterwards saw some sold at the Nicobars in the East
Indies which was of a lighter colour, but very hard, neither had
it any smell; and this also I suppose was a cheat. Yet it is
certain that in both these places there is ambergris found.

I was told by one John Read, a Bristol man, that he was
apprentice to a master who traded to these islands of Cape Verde
and once as he was riding at an anchor at Fogo, another of these
islands, there was a lump of it swam by the ship, and the boat
being ashore he missed it, but knew it to be ambergris, having
taken up a lump swimming in the like manner the voyage before,
and his master having at several times bought pieces of it of the
natives of the isle of Fogo so as to enrich himself thereby. And
so at the Nicobars Englishmen have bought, as I have been
credibly informed, great quantities of very good ambergris. Yet
the inhabitants are so subtle that they will counterfeit it, both
there and here: and I have heard that in the Gulf of Florida,
whence much of it comes, the native Indians there use the same
fraud.

Upon this occasion I cannot omit to tell my reader what I
learnt from Mr. Hill the surgeon upon his showing me once a piece
of ambergris, which was thus. One Mr. Benjamin Barker, a man that
I have been long well acquainted with, and know him to be a very
diligent and observing person, and likewise very sober and
credible, told this Mr. Hill that, being in the Bay of Honduras
to procure log-wood, which grows there in great abundance, and,
passing in a canoe over to one of the islands in that bay, he
found upon the shore, on a sandy bay there, a lump of ambergris
so large that, when carried to Jamaica, he found it to weigh a
hundred pound and upwards. When he first found it it lay dry
above the mark which the sea then came to at high-water; and he
observed in it a great multitude of beetles: it was of a dusky
colour, towards black, and about the hardness of mellow cheese,
and of a very fragrant smell: this that Mr. Hill showed me, being
some of it which Mr. Barker gave him. Besides those already
mentioned, all the places where I have heard that ambergris has
been found, at Bermuda and the Bahama Islands in the West Indies,
and that part of the coast of Africa with its adjacent islands
which reaches from Mozambique to the Red Sea.

THE ISLES OF ST. NICHOLAS, MAYO, ST. JAGO, FOGO, A BURNING
MOUNTAIN; WITH THE REST OF THE ISLES OF CAPE VERDE.

We went from this Island of Sal to St. Nicholas, another of
the Cape Verde Islands lying west-south-west from Sal about 22
leagues. We arrived there the next day after we left the other,
and anchored on the south-east side of the island. This is a
pretty large island; it is one of the biggest of all the Cape
Verde, and lies in a triangular form. The longest side, which
lies to the east, is about 30 leagues long, and the other two
about 20 leagues each. It is a mountainous barren island, and
rocky all round towards the sea; yet in the heart of it there are
valleys where the Portuguese, which inhabit here, have vineyards
and plantations, and wood for fuel. Here are many goats, which
are but poor in comparison with those in other places, yet much
better than those at Sal: there are likewise many asses. The
governor of this island came aboard us with three or four
gentlemen more in his company who were all indifferently well
clothed, and accoutred with swords and pistols; but the rest that
accompanied him to the seaside, which were about twenty or thirty
men more, were but in a ragged garb. The governor brought aboard
some wine made in the island, which tasted much like Madeira
wine: it was of a pale colour, and looked thick. He told us the
chief town was in the valley fourteen mile from the bay where we
rode; that he had there under him above one hundred families,
besides other inhabitants that lived scattering in valleys more
remote. They were all very swarthy; the governor was the clearest
of them, yet of a dark tawny complexion.

At this island we scrubbed the bottom of our ship, and here
also we dug wells ashore on the bay, and filled all our water,
and after 5 or 6 days stay we went from hence to Mayo, another of
the Cape Verde Islands, lying about forty mile east and by south
from the other, arriving there the next day and anchoring on the
north-west side of the island. We sent our boat on shore,
intending to have purchased some provision, as beef or goats,
with which this island is better stocked than the rest of the
islands. But the inhabitants would not suffer our men to land;
for about a week before our arrival there came an English ship,
the men of which came ashore pretending friendship, and seized on
the governor with some others, and, carrying them aboard, made
them send ashore for cattle to ransom their liberties: and yet
after this set sail, and carried them away, and they had not
heard of them since. The Englishman that did this (as I was
afterwards informed) was one Captain Bond of Bristol. Whether
ever he brought back those men again I know not: he himself and
most of his men have since gone over to the Spaniards: and it was
he who had like to have burnt our ship after this in the Bay of
Panama; as I shall have occasion to relate.

This isle of Mayo is but small and environed with shoals, yet
a place much frequented by shipping for its great plenty of salt:
and though there is but bad landing, yet many ships lade here
every year. Here are plenty of bulls, cows, and goats; and at a
certain season of the year, as May, June, July, and August, a
sort of small sea-tortoise come hither to lay their eggs; but
these turtle are not so sweet as those in the West Indies. The
inhabitants plant corn, yams, potatoes, and some plantains, and
breed a few fowls; living very poor, yet much better than the
inhabitants of any other of these islands, St. Jago excepted,
which lies four or five leagues to the westward of Mayo and is
the chief, the most fruitful, and best inhabited of all the
islands of Cape Verde; yet mountainous, and much barren land in
it.

On the east side of the isle St. Jago is a good port, which in
peaceable times especially is seldom without ships; for this has
been long a place which ships have been wont to touch at for
water and refreshments, as those outward-bound to the East
Indies, English, French and Dutch; many of the ships bound to the
coast of Guinea, the Dutch to Surinam, and their own Portuguese
fleet going for Brazil, which is generally about the latter end
of September: but few ships call in here in their return to
Europe. When any ships are here the country people bring down
their commodities to sell to the seamen and passengers, namely,
bullocks, hogs, goats, fowls, eggs, plantains, and coconuts,
which they will give in exchange for shirts, drawers,
handkerchiefs, hats, waistcoats, breeches, or in a manner for any
sort of cloth, especially linen, for woollen is not much esteemed
there. They care not willingly to part with their cattle of any
sort but in exchange for money, or linen, or some other valuable
commodity. Travellers must have a care of these people, for they
are very thievish; and if they see an opportunity will snatch
anything from you and run away with it. We did not touch at this
island in this voyage; but I was there before this in the year
1670, when I saw a fort here lying on the top of a hill and
commanding the harbour.

The governor of this island is chief over all the rest of the
islands. I have been told that there are two large towns on this
island, some small villages, and a great many inhabitants; and
that they make a great deal of wine, such as is that of St.
Nicholas. I have not been on any other of the Cape Verde Islands,
nor near them; but have seen most of them at a distance. They
seem to be mountainous and barren; some of these before-mentioned
being the most fruitful and most frequented by strangers,
especially St. Jago and Mayo. As to the rest of them, Fogo and
Brava are two small islands lying to the westward of St. Jago,
but of little note; only Fogo is remarkable for its being a
volcano: it is all of it one large mountain of a good height, out
of the top whereof issues flames of fire, yet only discerned in
the night: and then it may be seen a great way at sea. Yet this
island is not without inhabitants, who live at the foot of the
mountain near the sea. Their substance is much the same as in the
other islands; they have some goats, fowls, plantains, coconuts,
etc., as I am informed. Of the plantains and coconuts I shall
have occasion to speak when I come into the East Indies; and
shall defer the giving an account of them till then.

The remainder of these Islands of Cape Verde are St. Antonia,
St. Lucia, St. Vicente, and Buena Vista: of which I know nothing
considerable.

SHERBOROUGH RIVER ON THE COAST OF GUINEA.

Our entrance among these islands was from the north-east; for
in our passage from Virginia we ran pretty fair toward the coast
of Gualata in Africa to preserve the trade-wind, lest we should
be borne off too much to the westward and so lose the islands. We
anchored at the south of Sal and passing by the south of St.
Nicholas anchored again at Mayo, as has been said; where we made
the shorter stay, because we could get no flesh among the
inhabitants, by reason of the regret they had at their governor,
and his men being carried away by Captain Bond. So leaving the
isles of Cape Verde we stood away to the southward with the wind
at east-north-east, intending to have touched no more till we
came to the Straits of Magellan. But when we came into the
latitude of 10 degrees north we met the winds at south by west
and south-south-west. Therefore we altered our resolutions and
steered away for the coast of Guinea, and in few days came to the
mouth of the river of Sherborough, which is an English factory
lying south of Sierra Leone. We had one of our men who was well
acquainted there; and by his direction we went in among the
shoals, and came to an anchor.

THE COMMODITIES AND NEGROES THERE. A TOWN OF THEIRS
DESCRIBED.

Sherborough was a good way from us so I can give no account of
the place, or our factory there; save that I have been informed
that there is a considerable trade driven there for a sort of red
wood for dyeing, which grows in that country very plentifully, it
is called by our people cam-wood. A little within the shore where
we anchored was a town of Negroes, natives of this coast. It was
screened from our sight by a large grove of trees that grew
between them and the shore; but we went thither to them several
times during the 3 or 4 days of our stay here to refresh
ourselves; and they as often came aboard us, bringing with them
plantains, sugar-cane, palm-wines, rice, fowls, and honey, which
they sold us. They were no way shy of us, being well acquainted
with the English, by reason of our Guinea factories and trade.
This town seemed pretty large; the houses are but low and
ordinary: but one great house in the midst of it where their
chief men meet and receive strangers: and here they treated us
with palm-wine. As to their persons, they are like other Negroes.
While we lay here we scrubbed the bottom of our ship and then
filled all our water-casks; and, buying up 2 puncheons of rice
for our voyage, we departed from hence about the middle of
November 1683, prosecuting our intended course towards the
Straits of Magellan.

TORNADOES, SHARKS, FLYING-FISH.

We had but little wind after we got out, and very hot weather
with some fierce tornadoes, commonly rising out of the north-east
which brought thunder, lightning, and rain. These did not last
long; sometimes not a quarter of an hour, and then the wind would
shuffle about to the southward again, and fall flat calm; for
these tornadoes commonly come against the wind that is then
blowing, as our thunder-clouds are often observed to do in
England; but the tornadoes I shall describe more largely in my
Chapter of Winds, in the Appendix to this book. At this time many
of our men were taken with fevers yet we lost but one. While we
lay in the calms we caught several great sharks; sometimes two or
three in a day, and ate them all, boiling and squeezing them dry,
and then stewing them with vinegar, pepper, etc., for we had but
little flesh aboard. We took the benefit of every tornado, which
came sometimes three or four in a day, and carried what sail we
could to get to the southward, for we had but little wind when
they were over; and those small winds between the tornadoes were
much against us, at south by east and south-south-east till we
passed the Equinoctial Line, which we crossed about a degree to
the eastward of the meridian of the isle of St. Jago, one of the
Cape Verde Islands.

At first we could scarcely lie south-west but, being got a
degree to the southward of the Line, the wind veered most
easterly, and then we stemmed south-west by south and as we got
farther to the southward, so the wind came about to the eastward
and freshened upon us. In the latitude of 3 south we had the wind
at south-east. In the latitude of 5 we had it at east south where
it stood a considerable time and blew a fresh top-gallant gale.
We then made the best use of it, steering on briskly with all the
sail we could make; and this wind, by the 18th of January carried
us into the latitude of 36 south. In all this time we met with
nothing worthy remark; not so much as a fish except flying fish,
which have been so often described that I think it needless to do
it.

A SEA DEEP AND CLEAR, YET PALE.

Here we found the sea much changed from its natural greenness
to a white or palish colour, which caused us to sound, supposing
we might strike ground: for whenever we find the colour of the
sea to change we know we are not far from land or shoals which
stretch out into the sea, running from some land. But here we
found no ground with one hundred fathom line. I was this day at
noon by reckoning 48 degrees 50 minutes west from the Lizard, the
variation by our morning amplitude 15 degrees 10 minutes east,
the variation increasing. The 20th day one of our surgeons died
much lamented, because we had but one more for such a dangerous
voyage.

ISLES OF SIBBEL DE WARD.

January 28 we made the Sibbel de Wards which are 3 islands
lying in the latitude of 51 degrees 25 minutes south and
longitude west from the Lizard in England, by my account, 57
degrees 28 minutes. The variation here we found to be 23 degrees
10 minutes. I had for a month before we came hither endeavoured
to persuade Captain Cook and his company to anchor at these
islands, where I told them we might probably get water, as I then
thought, and in case we should miss of it here, yet by being good
husbands of what we had we might reach Juan Fernandez in the
South Seas before our water was spent. This I urged to hinder
their designs of going through the Straits of Magellan, which I
knew would prove very dangerous to us; the rather because, our
men being privateers and so more wilful and less under command,
would not be so ready to give a watchful attendance in a passage
so little known. For, although these men were more under command
than I had ever seen any privateers, yet I could not expect to
find them at a minute's call in coming to an anchor or weighing
anchor: beside, if ever we should have occasion to moor or cast
out two anchors, we had not a boat to carry out or weigh an
anchor. These islands of Sibbel de Wards were so named by the
Dutch. They are all three rocky barren islands without any tree,
only some dildoe-bushes growing on them: and I do believe there
is no water on any one of them, for there was no appearance of
any water. The two northermost we could not come near; but the
southermost we came close by, but could not strike ground till
within two cables' length of the shore, and there found it to be
foul rocky ground.

SMALL RED LOBSTERS.

From the time that we were in 10 degrees south till we came to
these islands we had the wind between east-north-east and the
north-north-east, fair weather and a brisk gale. The day that we
made these islands we saw great shoals of small lobsters which
coloured the sea in red spots for a mile in compass, and we drew
some of them out of the sea in our water-buckets. They were no
bigger than the top of a man's little finger, yet all their
claws, both great and small, like a lobster. I never saw any of
this sort of fish naturally red but here; for ours on the English
coast, which are black naturally, are not red till they are
boiled: neither did I ever anywhere else meet with any fish of
the lobster shape so small as these; unless, it may be, shrimps
or prawns: Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of
this fish in much the same latitude and longitude.

STRAIT LE MAIRE.

Leaving therefore the Sibbel de Ward Islands, as having
neither good anchorage nor water, we sailed on, directing our
course for the Straits of Magellan. But, the winds hanging in the
wester-board and blowing hard, oft put us by our topsails, so
that we could not fetch it. The 6th day of February we fell in
with the Straits Le Maire, which is very high land on both sides,
and the straits very narrow. We had the wind at north-north-west
a fresh gale; and, seeing the opening of the straits, we ran in
with it, till within four mile of the mouth, and then it fell
calm, and we found a strong tide setting out of the straits to
the northward, and like to founder our ship; but whether flood or
ebb I know not; only it made such a short cockling sea as if it
had been in a race, or place where two tides meet; for it ran
every way, sometimes breaking in over our waist, sometimes over
our poop, sometimes over our bow, and the ship tossed like an
eggshell, so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a ship. At
8 o'clock in the evening we had a small breeze at west-north-west
and steered away to the eastward, intending to go round the
States Island, the east end of which we reached the next day by
noon, having a fresh breeze all night.

STATES ISLAND.

The 7th day at noon, being off the east end of States Island,
I had a good observation of the sun, and found myself in latitude
54 degrees 52 minutes south.

At the east end of States Island are three small islands, or
rather rocks, pretty high, and white with the dung of fowls.

CAPE HORN IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Wherefore having observed the sun, we hauled up south,
designing to pass round to the southward of Cape Horne, which is
the southermost Land of Tierra del Fuego. The winds hung in the
western quarter betwixt the north-west and the west, so that we
could not get much to the westward, and we never saw Tierra del
Fuego after that evening that we made the Straits Le Maire. I
have heard that there have been smokes and fires on Tierra del
Fuego, not on the tops of hills, but in plains and valleys, seen
by those who have sailed through the Straits of Magellan;
supposed to be made by the natives.

We did not see the sun at rising or setting in order to make
an amplitude after we left the Sibbel de Wards till we got into
the South Sea: therefore I know not whether the variation
increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the sun
at noon in latitude 59 degrees 30 minutes and we were then
standing to the southward with the wind at west by north, and
that night the wind came about more to the southward of the west
and we tacked. I was then in latitude 60 by reckoning, which was
the farthest south latitude that ever I was in.

The 14th day of February, being in latitude 57 and to the west
of Cape Horne, we had a violent storm, which held us to the 3rd
day of March, blowing commonly south-west and south-west by west
and west-south-west, thick weather all the time with small
drizzling rain, but not hard. We made a shift however to save 23
barrels of rainwater besides what we dressed our victuals
withal.

March the 3rd the wind shifted at once, and came about at
south, blowing a fierce gale of wind; soon after it came about to
the eastward, and we stood into the South Seas.

The 9th day, having an observation of the sun, not having seen
it of late, we found ourselves in latitude 47 degrees 10 minutes
and the variation to be but 15 degrees 30 minutes east.

The wind stood at south-east, we had fair weather, and a
moderate gale, and the 17th day we were in latitude 36 by
observation, and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees
east.

THEIR MEETING WITH CAPTAIN EATON IN THE SOUTH SEAS, AND THEIR
GOING TOGETHER TO THE ISLE OF JUAN FERNANDEZ.

The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a ship
to the southward of us, coming with all the sail she could make
after us: we lay muzzled to let her come up with us, for we
supposed her to be a Spanish ship come from Valdivia bound to
Lima: we being now to the northward of Valdivia and this being
the time of the year when ships that trade thence to Valdivia
return home. They had the same opinion of us, and therefore made
sure to take us, but coming nearer we both found our mistakes.
This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a ship sent purposely from
London to the South Seas. We hailed each other, and the captain
came on board, and told us of his actions on the coast of Brazil,
and in the river of Plate.

He met Captain Swan (one that came from England to trade here)
at the east entrance into the Straits of Magellan, and they
accompanied each other through the straits, and were separated
after they were through by the storm before-mentioned. Both we
and Captain Eaton being bound for Juan Fernandez Isle, we kept
company, and we spared him bread and beef, and he spared us
water, which he took in as he passed through the straits.

OF A MOSKITO MAN LEFT THERE ALONE THREE YEARS: HIS ART AND
SAGACITY; WITH THAT OF OTHER INDIANS.

March the 22nd 1684, we came in sight of the island, and the
next day got in and anchored in a bay at the south end of the
island, and 25 fathom water, not two cables' length from the
shore. We presently got out our canoe, and went ashore to see for
a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chased hence by
three Spanish ships in the year 1681, a little before we went to
Arica; Captain Watling being then our commander, after Captain
Sharp was turned out.

This Indian lived here alone above three years and, although
he was several times sought after by the Spaniards, who knew he
was left on the island, yet they could never find him. He was in
the woods hunting for goats when Captain Watling drew off his
men, and the ship was under sail before he came back to shore. He
had with him his gun and a knife, with a small horn of powder and
a few shot; which, being spent, he contrived a way by notching
his knife to saw the barrel of his gun into small pieces
wherewith he made harpoons, lances, hooks, and a long knife,
heating the pieces first in the fire, which he struck with his
gunflint, and a piece of the barrel of his gun, which he
hardened; having learnt to do that among the English. The hot
pieces of iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with
stones, and saw them with his jagged knife; or grind them to an
edge by long labour, and harden them to a good temper as there
was occasion. All this may seem strange to those that are not
acquainted with the sagacity of the Indians; but it is no more
than these Moskito men are accustomed to in their own country,
where they make their own fishing and striking-instruments,
without either forge or anvil; though they spend a great deal of
time about them.

Other wild Indians who have not the use of iron, which the
Moskito men have from the English, make hatchets of a very hard
stone, with which they will cut down trees (the cotton-tree
especially, which is a soft tender wood) to build their houses or
make canoes; and, though in working their canoes hollow, they
cannot dig them so neat and thin, yet they will make them fit for
their service. This their digging or hatchet-work they help out
by fire; whether for the felling of trees or for the making the
inside of their canoe hollow. These contrivances are used
particularly by the savage Indians of Bluefield's River,
described in the 3rd chapter, whose canoes and stone hatchets I
have seen. These stone hatchets are about 10 inches long, 4
broad, and three inches thick in the middle. They are ground away
flat and sharp at both ends: right in the midst and clear round
it they make a notch, so wide and deep that a man might place his
finger along it and, taking a stick or withe about 4 foot long,
they bind it round the hatchet head, in that notch, and so,
twisting it hard, use it as a handle or helve; the head being
held by it very fast. Nor are other wild Indians less ingenious.
Those of Patagonia particularly head their arrows with flint, cut
or ground; which I have seen and admired. But to return to our
Moskito man on the isle of Juan Fernandez. With such instruments
as he made in that manner, he got such provision as the island
afforded; either goats or fish. He told us that at first he was
forced to eat seal, which is very ordinary meat, before he had
made hooks: but afterwards he never killed any seals but to make
lines, cutting their skins into thongs. He had a little house or
hut half a mile from the sea, which was lined with goat's skin;
his couch or barbecue of sticks lying along about two foot
distant from the ground, was spread with the same, and was all
his bedding. He had no clothes left, having worn out those he
brought from Watling's ship, but only a skin about his waist. He
saw our ship the day before we came to an anchor, and did believe
we were English, and therefore killed three goats in the morning
before we came to an anchor, and dressed them with cabbage, to
treat us when we came ashore. He came then to the seaside to
congratulate our safe arrival. And when we landed a Moskito
Indian named Robin first leapt ashore and, running to his brother
Moskito man, threw himself flat on his face at his feet, who
helping him up, and embracing him, fell flat with his face on the
ground at Robin's feet, and was by him taken up also. We stood
with pleasure to behold the surprise, and tenderness, and
solemnity of this interview, which was exceedingly affectionate
on both sides; and when their ceremonies of civility were over we
also that stood gazing at them drew near, each of us embracing
him we had found here, who was overjoyed to see so many of his
old friends come hither, as he thought purposely to fetch him. He
was named Will, as the other was Robin. These were names given
them by the English, for they had no names among themselves; and
they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us; and will
complain for want of it if we do not appoint them some name when
they are with us: saying of themselves they are poor men, and
have no name.

THE ISLAND DESCRIBED.

This island is in latitude 34 degrees 45 minutes and about 120
leagues from the Main. It is about 12 leagues round, full of high
hills, and small pleasant valleys; which if manured would
probably produce anything proper for the climate. The sides of
the mountains are part savannahs, part woodland. Savannahs are
clear pieces of land without woods; not because more barren than
the woodland, for they are frequently spots of as good land as
any, and often are intermixed with woodland.

THE SAVANNAHS OF AMERICA.

In the Bay of Campeachy are very large savannahs, which I have
seen full of cattle: but about the river of Plate are the largest
that ever I heard of, 50, 60, or 100 miles in length; and
Jamaica, Cuba, and Hispaniola have many savannahs intermixed with
woods. Places cleared of wood by art and labour do not go by this
name, but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts
of America, such as this isle of Juan Fernandez; or which were
originally clear in other parts.

The grass in these savannahs at Juan Fernandez is not a long
flaggy grass, such as is usually in the savannahs in the West
Indies, but a sort of kindly grass, thick and flourishing the
biggest part of the year. The woods afford divers sorts of trees;
some large and good timber for building, but none fit for masts.
The cabbage trees of this isle are but small and low; yet afford
a good head, and the cabbage very sweet. This tree I shall
describe in the Appendix, in the Bay of Campeachy.

GOATS AT JUAN FERNANDEZ.

The savannahs are stocked with goats in great herds: but those
that live on the east end of the island are not so fat as those
on the west end; for though there is much more grass, and plenty
of water in every valley, nevertheless they thrive not so well
here as on the west end, where there is less food; and yet there
are found greater flocks, and those too fatter and sweeter.

The west end of the island is all high champion ground without
any valley, and but one place to land; there is neither wood nor
any fresh water, and the grass short and dry.

Goats were first put on the island by Juan Fernandez, who
first discovered it on his voyage from Lima to Valdivia; (and
discovered also another island about the same bigness, 20 leagues
to the westward of this.) From those goats these were propagated,
and the island has taken its name from this its first discoverer
who, when he returned to Lima, desired a patent for it, designing
to settle here; and it was in his second voyage hither that he
set ashore three or four goats which have since, by their
increase, so well stocked the whole island. But he could never
get a patent for it, therefore it lies still destitute of
inhabitants, though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500
families, by what may be produced off the land only. I speak much
within compass; for the savannahs would at present feed 1000 head
of cattle besides goats, and the land being cultivated would
probably bear corn, or wheat, and good peas, yams, or potatoes;
for the land in their valleys and sides of the mountains is of a
good black fruitful mould. The sea about it is likewise very
productive of its inhabitants.

SEALS. SEA-LIONS.

Seals swarm as thick about this island as if they had no other
place in the world to live in; for there is not a bay nor rock
that one can get ashore on but is full of them. Sea-lions are
here in great companies, and fish, particularly snapper and
rock-fish, are so plentiful that two men in an hour's time will
take with hook and line as many as will serve 100 men.

The seals are a sort of creatures pretty well known, yet it
may not be amiss to describe them. They are as big as calves, the
head of them like a dog, therefore called by the Dutch the
sea-hounds. Under each shoulder grows a long thick fin: these
serve them to swim with when in the sea, and are instead of legs
to them when on the land for raising their bodies up on end, by
the help of these fins or stumps, and so having their tail-parts
drawn close under them, they rebound as it were, and throw their
bodies forward, drawing their hinder parts after them; and then
again rising up, and springing forward with their fore parts
alternately, they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while
they are moving on land. From their shoulders to their tails they
grow tapering like fish, and have two small fins on each side the
rump; which is commonly covered with their fins. These fins serve
instead of a tail in the sea; and on land they sit on them when
they give suck to their young. Their hair is of divers colours,
as black, grey, dun, spotted, looking very sleek and pleasant
when they come first out of the sea: for these at Juan Fernandez
have fine thick short fur; the like I have not taken notice of
anywhere but in these seas. Here are always thousands, I might
say possibly millions of them, either sitting on the bays, or
going and coming in the sea round the island; which is covered
with them (as they lie at the top of the water playing and
sunning themselves) for a mile or two from the shore. When they
come out of the sea they bleat like sheep for their young; and,
though they pass through hundreds of others' young ones before
they come to their own, yet they will not suffer any of them to
suck. The young ones are like puppies, and lie much ashore; but
when beaten by any of us, they, as well as the old ones, will
make towards the sea, and swim very swift and nimble; though on
shore they lie very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways
unless we beat them, but snap at us. A blow on the nose soon
kills them. Large ships might here load themselves with
seal-skins, and train-oil; for they are extraordinary fat. Seals
are found as well in cold as hot climates; and in the cold places
they love to get on lumps of ice, where they will lie and sun
themselves, as here on the land: they are frequent in the
northern parts of Europe and America, and in the southern parts
of Africa, as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Straits of
Magellan: and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in
the Bay of Campeachy, at certain islands called the Alceranes,
and at others called the Desarts; yet they are over all the
American coast of the South Seas, from Tierra del Fuego up to the
Equinoctial Line; but to the north of the Equinox again, in these
seas, I never saw any till as far as 21 north latitude. Nor did I
ever see any in the East Indies. In general they seem to resort
where there is plenty of fish, for that is their food; and fish,
such as they feed on, as cods, groupers, etc., are most plentiful
on rocky coasts: and such is mostly this western coast of the
South America; as I shall further relate.

The sea-lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long. The
biggest part of his body is as big as a bull: it is shaped like a
seal, but six times as big. The head is like a lion's head; it
has a broad face with many long hairs growing about its lips like
a cat. It has a great goggle eye, the teeth three inches long,
about the bigness of a man's thumb: in Captain Sharp's time, some
of our men made dice with them. They have no hair on their bodies
like the seal; they are of a dun colour, and are all
extraordinary fat; one of them being cut up and boiled will yield
a hogshead of oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry meat
withal. The lean flesh is black, and of a coarse grain; yet
indifferent good food. They will lie a week at a time ashore if
not disturbed. Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together
they huddle one on another like swine, and grunt like them,
making a hideous noise. They eat fish, which I believe is their
common food.

SNAPPER, A SORT OF FISH.

The snapper is a fish much like a roach, but a great deal
bigger. It has a large head and mouth, and great gills. The back
is of a bright red, the belly of a silver colour: the scales are
as broad as a shilling. The snapper is excellent meat. They are
in many places in the West Indies and the South Seas: I have not
seen them anywhere beside.

ROCK-FISH.

The rock-fish is called by seamen a grouper; the Spaniards
call it a baccalao, which is the name for cod, because it is much
like it. It is rounder than the snapper, of a dark brown colour;
and has small scales no bigger than a silver penny. This fish is
good sweet meat, and is found in great plenty on all the coast of
Peru and Chile.

THE BAYS, AND NATURAL STRENGTH OF THIS ISLAND.

There are only two bays in the whole island where ships may
anchor; these are both at the east end, and in both of them is a
rivulet of good fresh water. Either of these bays may be
fortified with little charge, to that degree that 50 men in each
may be able to keep off 1000; and there is no coming into these
bays from the west end but with great difficulty over the
mountains, where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many
as come against them on any side. This was partly experienced by
5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here, who defended
themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the
bays, and came here to destroy them; and though the second time
one of their consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards, yet the
other four kept their ground, and were afterwards taken in from
hence by Captain Strong of London.

We remained at Juan Fernandez sixteen days; our sick men were
ashore all the time, and one of Captain Eaton's doctors (for he
had four in his ship) tending and feeding them with goat and
several herbs, whereof here is plenty growing in the brooks; and
their diseases were chiefly scorbutic.

Chapter V

The Author Departs from Juan Fernandez. of the Pacific Sea.

The 8th of April 1684 we sailed from the isle of Juan
Fernandez with the wind at south-east. We were now two ships in
company: Captain Cook's, whose ship I was in, and who here took
the sickness of which he died a while after, and Captain Eaton's.
Our passage lay now along the Pacific Sea, properly so called.
For though it be usual with our map-makers to give that name to
this whole ocean, calling it Mare Australe, Mal del Zur, or Mare
Pacificum; yet in my opinion the name of the Pacific Sea ought
not to be extended from south to north farther than from 30 to
about 4 degrees south latitude, and from the American shore
westward indefinitely, with respect to my observation; who have
been in these parts 250 leagues or more from land, and still had
the sea very quiet from winds. For in all this tract of water of
which I have spoken there are no dark rainy clouds, though often
a thick horizon so as to hinder an observation of the sun with
the quadrant; and in the morning hazy weather frequently, and
thick mists, but scarce able to wet one. Nor are there in this
sea any winds but the trade-wind, no tempests, no tornadoes or
hurricanes (though north of the Equator they are met with as well
in this ocean as in the Atlantic) yet the sea itself at the new
and full of the moon runs with high, large, long surges, but such
as never break out at sea and so are safe enough; unless that
where they fall in and break upon the shore they make it bad
landing.

OF THE ANDES, OR HIGH MOUNTAINS IN PERU AND CHILE.

In this sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till
in the latitude of 24 south where we fell in with the mainland of
the South America. All this course of the land, both of Chile and
Peru, is vastly high; therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from
shore, being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling
there. The land (especially beyond this, from 24 degrees south
latitude 17, and from 14 to 10) is of a most prodigious height.
It lies generally in ridges parallel to the shore, and 3 or 4
ridges one with another, each surpassing other in height; and
those that are farthest within land are much higher than others.
They always appear blue when seen at sea: sometimes they are
obscured with clouds, but not so often as the high lands in other
parts of the world, for here are seldom or never any rains on
these hills, any more than in the sea near it; neither are they
subject to fogs. These are the highest mountains that ever I saw,
far surpassing the Pike of Tenerife or Santa Marta and, I
believe, any mountains in the world.

I have seen very high land in the latitude of 30 south, but
not so high as in the latitudes before described. In Sir John
Narborough's voyage also to Valdivia (a city on this coast)
mention is made of very high land seen near Valdivia: and the
Spaniards with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is
a very high land all the way between Coquimbo (which lies in
about 30 degrees south latitude) and Valdivia, which is in 40
south; so that by all likelihood these ridges of mountains do run
in a continued chain from one end of Peru and Chile to the other,
all along this South Sea coast, called usually the Andes, or
Sierra Nevada des Andes. The excessive height of these mountains
may possibly be the reason that there are no rivers of note that
fall into these seas. Some small rivers indeed there are, but
very few of them, for in some places there is not one that comes
out into the sea in 150 or 200 leagues, and where they are
thickest they are 30, 40, or 50 leagues asunder, and too little
and shallow to be navigable. Besides, some of these do not
constantly run, but are dry at certain seasons of the year; as
the river of Ylo runs flush with a quick current at the latter
end of January, and so continues till June, and then it decreases
by degrees, growing less, and running slow till the latter end of
September, when it fails wholly, and runs no more till January
again: this I have seen at both seasons in two former voyages I
made hither, and have been informed by the Spaniards that other
rivers on this coast are of the like nature, being rather
torrents or land-floods caused by their rains at certain seasons
far within land than perennial streams.

A PRIZE TAKEN.

We kept still along in sight of this coast but at a good
distance from it, encountering with nothing of note till in the
latitude of 9 degrees 40 minutes south. On the 3rd of May we
descried a sail to the northward of us. She was plying to
windward, we chased her, and Captain Eaton being ahead soon took
her: she came from Guayaquil about a month before, laden with
timber, and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she
came from Santa, whither she had gone for water, and where they
had news of our being in these seas by an express from Valdivia,
for, as we afterwards heard, Captain Swan had been at Valdivia to
seek a trade there; and he having met Captain Eaton in the
Straits of Magellan, the Spaniards of Valdivia were doubtless
informed of us by him, suspecting him also to be one of us,
though he was not. Upon this news the viceroy of Lima sent
expresses to all the sea ports, that they might provide
themselves against our assaults.

ISLE OF LOBOS: PENGUINS AND OTHER BIRDS THERE.

We immediately steered away for the island Lobos which lies in
latitude 6 degrees 24 minutes south latitude (I took the
elevation of it ashore with an astrolabe) and it is 5 leagues
from the Main. It is called Lobos de la Mar, to distinguish it
from another that is not far from it, and extremely like it,
called Lobos de la Terra, for it lies nearer the main. Lobos, or
Lovos, is the Spanish name for a seal, of which there are great
plenty about these and several other islands in these seas that
go by this name.

The 9th of May we arrived at this isle of Lobos de la Mar and
came to an anchor with our prize. This Lobos consists indeed of
two little islands, each about a mile round, of an indifferent
height, a small channel between, fit for boats only; and several
rocks lying on the north side of the islands, a little way from
shore. There is a small cove or sandy bay sheltered from the
winds at the west end of the eastermost island, where ships may
careen: the rest of the shore, as well round the two islands as
between them, is a rocky coast consisting of small cliffs. Within
land they are both of them partly rocky, and partly sandy,
barren, without any fresh water, tree, shrub, grass, or herbs; or
any land animals (for the seals and sea-lions come ashore here)
but fowls, of which there are great multitudes; as boobies, but
mostly penguins, which I have seen plentifully all over the South
Seas, on the coast of Newfoundland, and of the Cape of Good Hope.
They are a sea-fowl, about as big as a duck, and such feet; but a
sharp bill, feeding on fish. They do not fly, but flutter, having
rather stumps like a young gosling's than wings: and these are
instead of fins to them in the water. Their feathers are downy.
Their flesh is but ordinary food but their eggs are good meat.
There is another sort of small black fowl that makes holes in the
sand for their night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat.
I never saw any of them but here and at Juan Fernandez.

There is good riding between the eastermost island and the
rocks in ten, twelve, or fourteen fathom, for the wind is
commonly at south or south-south-east, and the eastermost island
lying east and west, shelters that road.

Here we scrubbed our ships and, being in a readiness to sail,
the prisoners were examined to know if any of them could conduct
us to some town where we might make some attempt; for they had
before informed us that we were descried by the Spaniards, and by
that we knew that they would send no riches by sea so long as we
were here. Many towns were considered on, as Guayaquil, Zana,
Truxillo, and others: at last Truxillo was pitched on as the most
important, therefore the likeliest to make us a voyage if we
could conquer it: which we did not much question though we knew
it to be a very populous city. But the greatest difficulty was in
landing; for Guanchaquo, which is the nearest sea port to it, but
six miles off, is an ill place to land, since sometimes the very
fishermen that live there are not able to go in three or four
days.

THREE PRIZES MORE.

However the 17th of May in the afternoon our men were mustered
of both ships' companies, and their arms proved. We were in all
108 men fit for service besides the sick: and the next day we
intended to sail and take the wood prize with us. But the next
day, one of our men being ashore betimes on the island, described
three sail bound to the northward; two of them without the island
to the westward, the other between it and the continent.

We soon got our anchors up and chased: and Captain Eaton, who
drew the least draught of water, put through between the
westermost island and the rocks, and went after those two that
were without the islands. We in Captain Cook's ship went after
the other, which stood in for the mainland, but we soon fetched
her up and, having taken her, stood in again with her to the
island; for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help, having
taken both those that he went after. He came in with one of his
prizes; but the other was so far to leeward and so deep that he
could not then get her in, but he hoped to get her in the next
day: but being deep laden, as designed to go down before the wind
to Panama, she would not bear sail.

The 19th day she turned all day, but got nothing nearer the
island. Our Moskito strikers, according to their custom, went and
struck six turtles; for here are indifferent plenty of them.
These ships that we took the day before we came from Guanchaquo,
all three laden with flour, bound for Panama. Two of them were
laden as deep as they could swim, the other was not above half
laden, but was ordered by the viceroy of Lima to sail with the
other two, or else she should not sail till we were gone out of
the seas; for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early.
In the biggest ship was a letter to the president of Panama from
the viceroy of Lima; assuring him that there were enemies come
into that sea; for which reason he had dispatched these three
ships with flour, that they might not want (for Panama is
supplied from Peru) and desired him to be frugal of it, for he
knew not when he should send more. In this ship were likewise 7
or 8 tuns of marmalade of quinces, and a stately mule sent to the
president, and a very large image of the Virgin Mary in wood,
carved and painted to adorn a new church at Panama, and sent from
Lima by the viceroy; for this great ship came from thence not
long before. She brought also from Lima 800,000 pieces-of-eight
to carry with her to Panama: but while she lay at Guanchaco,
taking in her lading of flour, the merchants, hearing of Captain
Swan's being in Valdivia, ordered the money ashore again. These
prisoners likewise informed us that the gentlemen (inhabitants of
Truxillo) were building a fort at Guanchaquo (which is the sea
port for Truxillo) close by the sea, purposely to hinder the
designs of any that should attempt to land there. Upon this news
we altered our former resolutions, and resolved to go with our
three prizes to the Galapagos; which are a great many large
islands lying some under the Equator, others on each side of it.
I shall here omit the description of Truxillo, because in my
Appendix, at the latter end of the book, I intend to give a
general relation of most of the towns of note on this coast from
Valdivia to Panama, and from thence towards California.

The 19th day in the evening we sailed from the island Lobos
with Captain Eaton in our company. We carried the three flour
prizes with us, but our first prize laden with timber we left
here at an anchor; the wind was at south by east which is the
common trade-wind here, and we steered away north-west by north
intending to run into the latitude of the isles Galapagos, and
steer off west, because we did not know the certain distance, and
therefore could not shape a direct course to them. When we came
within 40 minutes of the Equator we steered west, having the wind
at south, a very moderate gentle gale.

THE ISLANDS GALAPAGOS: THE DILDOE-TREE, BURTON-WOOD,
MAMMEE-TREES, IGUANAS, LAND-TORTOISE, THEIR SEVERAL KIND; GREEN
SNAKES, TURTLE-DOVES, TORTOISE, OR TURTLE-GRASS.

It was the 31st day of May when we first had sight of the
islands Galapagos: some of them appeared on our weather bow, some
on our lee bow, others right ahead. We at first sight trimmed our
sails and steered as nigh the wind as we could, striving to get
to the southermost of them but, our prizes being deep laden,
their sails but small and thin, and a very small gale, they could
not keep up with us; therefore we likewise edged away again a
point from the wind to keep near them; and in the evening the
ship that I was in and Captain Eaton anchored on the east side of
one of the eastermost islands, a mile from the shore, in sixteen
fathom water, clean, white, hard sand.

The Galapagos Islands are a great number of uninhabited
islands lying under and on both sides of the Equator. The
eastermost of them are about 110 leagues from the Main. They are
laid down in the longitude of 181, reaching to the westward as
far as 176, therefore their longitude from England westward is
about 68 degrees. But I believe our hydrographers do not place
them far enough to the westward. The Spaniards who first
discovered them, and in whose charts alone they are laid down,
report them to be a great number stretching north-west from the
Line, as far as 5 degrees north, but we saw not above 14 or 15.
They are some of them 7 or 8 leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. They
are of a good height, most of them flat and even on the top; 4 or
5 of the eastermost are rocky, barren and hilly, producing
neither tree, herb, nor grass, but a few dildoe-trees, except by
the seaside. The dildoe-tree is a green prickly shrub that grows
about 10 or 12 foot high, without either leaf or fruit. It is as
big as a man's leg, from the root to the top, and it is full of
sharp prickles growing in thick rows from top to bottom; this
shrub is fit for no use, not so much as to burn. Close by the sea
there grows in some places bushes of burton-wood, which is very
good firing. This sort of wood grows in many places in the West
Indies, especially in the Bay of Campeachy and the Samballoes. I
did never see any in these seas but here. There is water on these
barren islands in ponds and holes among the rocks. Some other of
these islands are mostly plain and low, and the land more
fertile, producing trees of divers sorts unknown to us. Some of
the westermost of these islands are nine or ten leagues long and
six or seven broad; the mould deep and black. These produce trees
of great and tall bodies, especially mammee-trees, which grow
here in great groves. In these large islands there are some
pretty big rivers; and in many of the other lesser islands there
are brooks of good water. The Spaniards when they first
discovered these islands found multitudes of iguanas, and
land-turtle or tortoise, and named them the Galapagos Islands. I
do believe there is no place in the world that is so plentifully
stored with those animals. The iguanas here are fat and large as
any that I ever saw; they are so tame that a man may knock down
twenty in an hour's time with a club. The land-turtle are here so
numerous that 5 or 600 men might subsist on them alone for
several months without any other sort of provision: they are
extraordinary large and fat; and so sweet that no pullet eats
more pleasantly. One of the largest of these creatures will weigh
150 or 200 weight, and some of them are 2 foot, or 2 foot 6
inches over the challapee or belly. I did never see any but at
this place that will weigh above 30 pound weight. I have heard
that at the isle of St. Lawrence or Madagascar, and at the
English Forest, an island near it called also Don Mascarin and
now possessed by the French, there are very large ones, but
whether so big, fat, and sweet as these, I know not. There are 3
or 4 sorts of these creatures in the West Indies. One is called
by the Spaniards hecatee; these live most in fresh-water ponds,
and seldom come on land. They weigh about 10 or 15 pound; they
have small legs and flat feet, and small long necks. Another sort
is called tenapen; these are a great deal less than the hecatee;
the shell on their backs is all carved naturally, finely wrought,
and well clouded: the backs of these are rounder than those
before mentioned; they are otherwise much of the same form: these
delight to live in wet swampy places, or on the land near such
places. Both these sorts are very good meat. They are in great
plenty on the isles of Pines near Cuba: there the Spanish hunters
when they meet them in the woods bring them home to their huts,
and mark them by notching their shells, then let them go; this
they do to have them at hand, for they never ramble far from
thence. When these hunters return to Cuba, after about a month or
six weeks' stay, they carry with them 3 or 400 or more of these
creatures to sell; for they are very good meat, and every man
knows his own by their marks. These tortoise in the Galapagos are
more like the hecatee except that, as I said before, they are
much bigger; and they have very long small necks and little
heads. There are some green snakes on these islands, but no other
land animal that I did ever see. There are great plenty of
turtle-doves so tame that a man may kill 5 or 6 dozen in a
forenoon with a stick. They are somewhat less than a pigeon, and
are very good meat, and commonly fat.

There are good wide channels between these islands fit for
ships to pass, and in some places shoal water where there grows
plenty of turtle-grass; therefore these islands are plentifully
stored with sea-turtle of that sort which is called the green
turtle. I have hitherto deferred the description of these
creatures therefore I shall give it here.

SEA-TURTLE, THEIR SEVERAL KINDS.

There are 4 sorts of sea-turtle, namely, the trunk-turtle, the
loggerhead, the hawksbill, and the green turtle. The trunk-turtle
is commonly bigger than the other, their backs are higher and
rounder, and their flesh rank and not wholesome. The loggerhead
is so called because it has a great head, much bigger than the
other sorts; their flesh is likewise very rank, and seldom eaten
but in case of necessity: they feed on moss that grows about
rocks. The hawksbill-turtle is the least kind, they are so called
because their mouths are long and small, somewhat resembling the
bill of a hawk: on the backs of these hawksbill turtle grows that
shell which is so much esteemed for making cabinets, combs, and
other things. The largest of them may have 3 pound and a half of
shell; I have taken some that have had 3 pound 10 ounces: but
they commonly have a pound and a half or two pound; some not so
much. These are but ordinary food, but generally sweeter than the
loggerhead: yet these hawksbills in some places are unwholesome,
causing them that eat them to purge and vomit excessively,
especially those between the Samballoes and Portobello. We meet
with other fish in the West Indies of the same malignant nature:
but I shall describe them in the Appendix. These
hawksbill-turtles are better or worse according to their feeding.
In some places they feed on grass, as the green tortoise also
does; in other places they keep among rocks and feed on moss or
seaweeds; but these are not so sweet as those that eat grass,
neither is their shell so clear; for they are commonly overgrown
with barnacles which spoil the shell; and their flesh is commonly
yellow, especially the fat.

Hawksbill-turtle are in many places of the West Indies: they
have islands and places peculiar to themselves where they lay
their eggs, and seldom come among any other turtle. These and all
other turtle lay eggs in the sand; their time of laying is in
May, June, July. Some begin sooner, some later. They lay 3 times
in a season, and at each time 80 or 90 eggs. Their eggs are as
big as a hen's egg, and very round, covered only with a white
tough skin. There are some bays on the north side of Jamaica
where these hawksbills resort to lay. In the Bay of Honduras are
islands which they likewise make their breeding-places, and many
places along all the coast on the Main of the West Indies from
Trinidad de La Vera Cruz in the Bay of Nova Hispania. When a
sea-turtle turns out of the sea to lay she is at least an hour
before she returns again, for she is to go above high-water mark,
and if it be low-water when she comes ashore, she must rest once
or twice, being heavy, before she comes to the place where she
lays. When she has found a place for her purpose she makes a
great hole with her fins in the sand, wherein she lays her eggs,
then covers them 2 foot deep with the same sand which she threw
out of the hole, and so returns. Sometimes they come up the night
before they intend to lay, and take a view of the place, and so
having made a tour, or semicircular march, they return to the sea
again, and they never fail to come ashore the next night to lay
near that place. All sorts of turtle use the same methods in
laying. I knew a man in Jamaica that made 8 pound Sterling of the
shell of these hawksbill turtle which he got in one season and in
one small bay, not half a mile long. The manner of taking them is
to watch the bay by walking from one part to the other all night,
making no noise, nor keeping any sort of light. When the turtle
comes ashore the man that watches for them turns them on their
backs, then hauls them above high-water mark, and leaves them
till the morning. A large green turtle, with her weight and
struggling, will puzzle 2 men to turn her. The hawksbill-turtle
are not only found in the West Indies but on the coast of Guinea,
and in the East Indies. I never saw any in the South Seas.

The green turtle are so called because their shell is greener
than any other. It is very thin and clear and better clouded than
the hawksbill; but it is used only for inlays, being
extraordinary thin. These turtles are generally larger than the
hawksbill; one will weigh 2 or 3 hundred pound. Their backs are
flatter than the hawksbill, their heads round and small. Green
turtle are the sweetest of all the kinds: but there are degrees
of them both in respect to their flesh and their bigness. I have
observed that at Blanco in the West Indies the green turtle
(which is the only kind there) are larger than any other in the
North Seas. There they will commonly weigh 280 or 300 pound:
their fat is yellow, and the lean white, and their flesh
extraordinary sweet. At Boca Toro, west of Portobello, they are
not so large, their flesh not so white, nor the fat so yellow.
Those in the Bay of Honduras and Campeachy are somewhat smaller
still; their fat is green, and the lean of a darker colour than
those at Boca Toro. I heard of a monstrous green turtle once
taken at Port Royal in the Bay of Campeachy that was four foot
deep from the back to the belly, and the belly six foot broad;
Captain Roch's son, of about nine or ten years of age, went in it
as in a boat on board his father's ship, about a quarter of a
mile from the shore. The leaves of fat afforded eight gallons of
oil. The turtle that live among the keys or small islands on the
south side of Cuba are a mixed sort, some bigger, some less; and
so their flesh is of a mixed colour, some green, some dark, some
yellowish. With these Port Royal in Jamaica is constantly
supplied by sloops that come hither with nets to take them. They
carry them alive to Jamaica where the turtles have wires made
with stakes in the sea to preserve them alive; and the market is
every day plentifully stored with turtle, it being the common
food there, chiefly for the ordinary sort of people.

Green turtle live on grass which grows in the sea in 3, 4, 5,
or 6 fathom water, at most of the places before mentioned. This
grass is different from manatee-grass, for that is a small blade;
but this a quarter of an inch broad and six inches long. The
turtle of these islands Galapagos are a sort of a bastard green
turtle; for their shell is thicker than other green turtle in the
West or East Indies, and their flesh is not so sweet. They are
larger than any other green turtle; for it is common for these to
be two or three foot deep, and their callapees or bellies five
foot wide: but there are other green turtle in the South Seas
that are not so big as the smallest hawksbill. These are seen at
the island Plata, and other places thereabouts: they feed on moss
and are very rank but fat.

Both these sorts are different from any others, for both he's
and she's come ashore in the daytime and lie in the sun; but in
other places none but the she's go ashore, and that in the night
only to lay their eggs. The best feeding for turtle in the South
Seas is among these Galapagos Islands, for here is plenty of
grass.

There is another sort of green turtle in the South Seas which
are but small, yet pretty sweet: these lie westward on the coast
of Mexico. One thing is very strange and remarkable in these
creatures; that at the breeding time they leave for two or three
months their common haunts, where they feed most of the year, and
resort to other places only to lay their eggs: and it is not
thought that they eat anything during this season: so that both
he's and she's grow very lean; but the he's to that degree that
none will eat them. The most remarkable places that I did ever
hear of for their breeding is at an island in the West Indies
called Caymans, and the isle Ascension in the Western Ocean: and
when the breeding time is past there are none remaining.
Doubtless they swim some hundreds of leagues to come to those two
places: for it has been often observed that at Cayman, at the
breeding time, there are found all those sort of turtle before
described. The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 leagues from
thence, which is the nearest place that these creatures can come
from; and it is most certain that there could not live so many
there as come here in one season.

Those that go to lay at Ascension must needs travel much
farther; for there is no land nearer it than 300 leagues: and it
is certain that these creatures live always near the shore. In
the South Sea likewise the Galapagos is the place where they live
the biggest part of the year; yet they go from thence at their
season over to the Main to lay their eggs; which is 100 leagues
the nearest place. Although multitudes of these turtles go from
their common places of feeding and abode to those laying-places,
yet they do not all go: and at the time when the turtle resort to
these places to lay their eggs they are accompanied with
abundance of fish, especially sharks; the places which the turtle
then leave being at that time destitute of fish, which follow the
turtle.

When the she's go thus to their places to lay the male
accompany them, and never leave them till they return: both male
and female are fat the beginning of the season; but before they
return the male, as I said, are so lean that they are not fit to
eat, but the female are good to the very last; yet not so fat as
at the beginning of the season. It is reported of these creatures
that they are nine days engendering, and in the water, the male
on the female's back. It is observable that the male, while
engendering, do not easily forsake their female: for I have gone
and taken hold of the male when engendering: and a very bad
striker may strike them then, for the male is not shy at all: but
the female, seeing a boat when they rise to blow, would make her
escape, but that the male grasps her with his two fore fins, and
holds her fast. When they are thus coupled it is best to strike
the female first, then you are sure of the male also. These
creatures are thought to live to a great age; and it is observed
by the Jamaica turtlers that they are many years before they come
to their full growth.

THE AIR AND WEATHER AT THE GALAPAGOS.

The air of these islands is temperate enough considering the
clime. Here is constantly a fresh sea-breeze all day, and cooling
refreshing winds in the night: therefore the heat is not so
violent here as in most places near the Equator. The time of the
year for the rains is in November, December, and January. Then
there is oftentimes excessive hard tempestuous weather, mixed
with much thunder and lightning. Sometimes before and after these
months there are moderate refreshing showers; but in May, June,
July, and August the weather is always very fair.

We stayed at one of these islands which lies under the Equator
but one night because our prizes could not get in to anchor. We
refreshed ourselves very well both with land and sea-turtles; and
the next day we sailed from thence.

SOME OF THE ISLANDS DESCRIBED, THEIR SOIL, ETC.

The next island of the Galapagos that we came to is but two
leagues from this: it is rocky and barren like this; it is about
five or six leagues long and four broad. We anchored in the
afternoon at the north side of the island, a quarter of a mile
from the shore in 16 fathom water. It is steep all round this
island and no anchoring only at this place. Here it is but
ordinary riding; for the ground is so steep that if an anchor
starts it never holds again; and the wind is commonly off from
the land except in the night when the land-wind comes more from
the west, for there it blows right along the shore, though but
faintly. Here is no water but in ponds and holes of the
rocks.

That which we first anchored at has water on the north end
falling down in a stream from high steep rocks upon the sandy
bay, where it may be taken up. As soon as we came to an anchor,
we made a tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick. Here we
found the sea-turtle lying ashore on the sand; this is not
customary in the West Indies. We turned them on their backs that
they might not get away. The next day more came up, when we found
it to be their custom to lie in the sun: so we never took care to
turn them afterwards; but sent ashore the cook every morning, who
killed as many as served for the day. This custom we observed all
the time we lay here, feeding sometimes on land-turtle, sometimes
on sea-turtle, there being plenty of either sort. Captain Davis
came hither again a second time; and then he went to other
islands on the west side of these. There he found such plenty of
land-turtle that he and his men ate nothing else for three months
that he stayed there. They were so fat that he saved sixty jars
of oil out of those that he spent: this oil served instead of
butter to eat with doughboys or dumplings, in his return out of
these seas. He found very convenient places to careen, and good
channels between the islands; and very good anchoring in many
places. There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water,
and firewood enough, there being plenty of trees fit for many
uses. Captain Harris, one that we shall speak of hereafter, came
thither likewise, and found some islands that had plenty of
mammee-trees, and pretty large rivers. The sea about these
islands is plentifully stored with fish such as are at Juan
Fernandez. They are both large and fat and as plentiful here as
at Juan Fernandez. Here are particularly abundance of sharks. The
north part of this second isle we anchored at lies 28 minutes
north of the Equator. I took the height of the sun with an
astrolabe. These isles of the Galapagos have plenty of salt. We
stayed here but 12 days in which time we put ashore 5000 packs of
flour for a reserve if we should have occasion of any before we
left these seas. Here one of our Indian prisoners informed us
that he was born at Realejo, and that he would engage to carry us
thither. He being examined of the strength and riches of it
satisfied the company so well that they were resolved to go
thither.

Having thus concluded; the 12th of June we sailed from hence,
designing to touch at the island Cocos, as well to put ashore
some flour there as to see the island, because it was in our way
to Realejo. We steered north till in latitude 4 degrees 40
minutes, intending then to steer west by north, for we expected
to have had the wind at south by east or south-south-east as we
had on the south side of the Equator. Thus I had formerly found
the winds near the shore in these latitudes; but when we first
parted from the Galapagos we had the wind at south, and as we
sailed farther north we had the winds at south by west then at
south-south-west, winds which we did not expect. We thought at
first that the wind would come about again to the south; but when
we came to sail off west to the island Cocos we had the wind at
south-west by south and could lie but west by north. Yet we stood
that course till we were in the latitude 5 degrees 40 minutes
north and then despairing, as the winds were, to find the island
Cocos, we steered over to the Main; for had we seen the island
then, we could not have fetched it, being so far to the north of
it.

THE ISLAND COCOS DESCRIBED, CAPE BLANCO, AND THE BAY OF
CALDERA; THE SAVANNAHS THERE.

The island Cocos is so named by the Spaniards because there
are abundance of coconut-trees growing on it. They are not only
in one or two places but grow in great groves, all round the
island, by the sea. This is an uninhabited island, it is 7 or 8
leagues round and pretty high in the middle, where it is
destitute of trees, but looks very green and pleasant with a herb
called by the Spaniards gramadael. It is low land by the
seaside.

This island is in 5 degrees 15 minutes north of the Equator;
it is environed with rocks, which makes it almost inaccessible:
only at the north-east end there is a small harbour where ships
may safely enter and ride secure. In this harbour there is a fine
brook of fresh water running into the sea. This is the account
that the Spaniards give of it, and I had the same also from
Captain Eaton, who was there afterward.

Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the winds in
these parts might reasonably expect that we could have sailed
with a flown sheet to Realejo; but we found ourselves mistaken,
for as we came nearer the shore we found the winds right in our
teeth. But I shall refer my reader to the Chapter of Winds in the
Appendix for a farther account of this.

We had very fair weather and small winds in this voyage from
the Galapagos, and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape
Blanco, on the Main of Mexico. This is so called from two white
rocks lying off it. When we are off at sea right against the cape
they appear as part of the cape; but being near the shore, either
to the eastward or westward of the cape, they appear like two
ships under sail at first view but, coming nearer, they are like
two high towers; they being small, high and steep on all sides,
and they are about half a mile from the cape. This cape is in
latitude 9 degrees 56 minutes. It is about the height of Beachy
Head in England, on the coast of Sussex. It is a full point, with
steep rocks to the sea. The top of it is flat and even for about
a mile; then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle
descent. It appears very pleasant, being covered with great lofty
trees. From the cape on the north-west side the land runs in
north-east for about 4 leagues, making a small bay called by the
Spaniards Caldera. A league within Cape Blanco, on the north-west
side of it and at the entrance of this bay, there is a small
brook of very good water running into the sea. Here the land is
low, making a saddling between 2 small hills. It is very rich
land, producing large tall trees of many sorts; the mould is
black and deep, which I have always taken notice of to be a fat
soil. About a mile from this brook towards the north-east the
woodland terminates. Here the savannah land begins, and runs some
leagues into the country, making many small hills and dales.
These savannahs are not altogether clear of trees, but are here
and there sprinkled with small groves, which render them very
delightful. The grass which grows here is very kindly, thick and
long; I have seen none better in the West Indies. Toward the
bottom of the bay the land by the sea is low and full of
mangroves, but farther in the country the land is high and
mountainous. The mountains are part woodland, part savannah. The
trees in those woods are but small and short; and the mountain
savannahs are clothed but with indifferent grass. From the bottom
of this bay it is but 14 or 15 leagues to the Lake of Nicaragua
on the North Sea coast: the way between is somewhat mountainous,
but most savannah.

CAPTAIN COOK DIES.

Captain Cook, who was then sick at Juan Fernandez, continued
so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco, and then
died of a sudden; though he seemed that morning to be as likely
to live, as he had been some weeks before; but it is usual with
sick men coming from the sea, where they have nothing but the sea
air, to die off as soon as ever they come within the view of the
land. About four hours after we all came to an anchor (namely the
ship that I was in, Captain Eaton, and the great meal prize) a
league within the cape, right against the brook of fresh water,
in 14 fathom clean hard sand. Presently after we came to an
anchor Captain Cook was carried ashore to be buried, twelve men
carried their arms to guard those that were ordered to dig the
grave: for although we saw no appearance of inhabitants, yet we
did not know but the country might be thick inhabited. And before
Captain Cook was interred three Spanish Indians came to the place
where our men were digging the grave and demanded what they were,
and from whence they came? To whom our men answered they came
from Lima and were bound to Realejo, but that the captain of one
of the ships dying at sea, obliged them to come into this place
to give him Christian burial. The three Spanish Indians who were
very shy at first began to be very bold and, drawing near, asked
many silly questions; and our men did not stick to soothe them up
with as many falsehoods, purposely to draw them into their
clutches. Our men often laughed at their temerity; and asked them
if they never saw any Spaniards before? They told them that they
themselves were Spaniards and that they lived among Spaniards,
and that although they were born there yet they had never seen 3
ships there before: our men told them that neither now might they
have seen so many if it had not been on an urgent occasion. At
length they drilled them by discourse so near that our men laid
hold on all three at once; but before Captain Cook was buried one
of them made his escape, the other two were brought off aboard
our ship. Captain Eaton immediately came aboard and examined
them; they confessed that they came purposely to view our ship
and if possible to inform themselves what we were; for the
president of Panama not long before sent a letter of advice to
Nicoya, informing the magistrates thereof that some enemies were
come into these seas, and that therefore it behoved them to be
careful of themselves. Nicoya is a small Mulatto town about 12 or
14 leagues east from hence, standing on the banks of a river of
that name. It is a place very fit for building ships, therefore
most of the inhabitants are carpenters who are commonly employed
in building new or repairing old ships. It was here that Captain
Sharp (just after I left him in the year 1681) got carpenters to
fix his ship before he returned to England: and for that reason
it behoved the Spaniards to be careful (according to the governor
of Panama's advice) lest any men at other times wanting such
necessaries as that place afforded might again be supplied
there.

OF NICOYA, AND A RED WOOD FOR DYEING, AND OTHER
COMMODITIES.

These Spanish Indians told us likewise that they were sent to
the place where they were taken in order to view our ships, as
fearing these were those mentioned by the president of Panama: it
being demanded of them to give an account of the estate and
riches of the country; they said that the inhabitants were most
husbandmen, who were employed either in planting and manuring of
corn, or chiefly about cattle; they having large savannahs, which
were well stored with bulls, cows and horses; that by the seaside
in some places there grew some red-wood, useful in dyeing; of
this they said there was little profit made, because they were
forced to send it to the Lake of Nicaragua, which runs into the
North Seas: that they sent thither also great quantities of bull
and cow-hides, and brought from thence in exchange Europe
commodities; as hats, linen and woollen, wherewith they clothed
themselves; that the flesh of the cattle turned to no other
profit than sustenance for their families; as for butter and
cheese they make but little in those parts. After they had given
this relation they told us that if we wanted provision there was
a beef estancia, or farm of bulls and cows, about three mile off
where we might kill what we pleased. This was welcome news for we
had no sort of flesh since we left the Galapagos; therefore
twenty-four of us immediately entered into two boats, taking one
of these Spanish Indians with us for a pilot, and went ashore
about a league from the ship. There we hauled up our boats dry
and marched all away, following our guide, who soon brought us to
some houses and a large pen for cattle. This pen stood in a large
savannah, about two mile from our boats: there were a great many
fat bulls and cows feeding in the savannahs; some of us would
have killed three or four to carry on board, but others opposed
it, and said it was better to stay all night, and in the morning
drive the cattle into the pen, and then kill 20 or 30, or as many
as we pleased.

A NARROW ESCAPE OF TWELVE MEN.

I was minded to return aboard, and endeavoured to persuade
them all to go with me, but some would not, therefore I returned
with 12, which was half, and left the other 12 behind. At this
place I saw three or four tun of the redwood; which I take to be
that sort of wood, called in Jamaica blood-wood, or
Nicaragua-wood. We who returned aboard met no one to oppose us,
and the next day we expected our consorts that we left ashore,
but none came; therefore at four o'clock in the afternoon ten men
went in our canoe to see what was become of them: when they came
to the bay where we landed to go to the estancia they found our
men all on a small rock, half a mile from the shore, standing in
the water up to their waists. These men had slept ashore in the
house and turned out betimes in the morning to pen the cattle; 2
or 3 went one way and as many another way to get the cattle to
the pen, and others stood at the pen to drive them in. When they
were thus scattered about 40 or 50 armed Spaniards came in among
them. Our men immediately called to each other and drew together
in a body before the Spaniards could attack them; and marched to
their boat, which was hauled up dry on the sand. But when they
came to the sandy bay they found their boat all in flames. This
was a very unpleasing sight for they knew not how to get aboard
unless they marched by land to the place where Captain Cook was
buried, which was near a league. The greatest part of the way was
thick woods, where the Spaniards might easily lay an ambush for
them, at which they are very expert. On the other side, the
Spaniards now thought them secure; and therefore came to them,
and asked them if they would be pleased to walk to their
plantations, with many other such flouts; but our men answered
never a word. It was about half ebb when one of our men took
notice of a rock a good distance from the shore, just appearing
above water; he showed it to his consorts, and told them it would
be a good castle for them if they could get thither. They all
wished themselves there; for the Spaniards, who lay as yet at a
good distance from them behind the bushes, as secure of their
prey, began to whistle now and then a shot among them. Having
therefore well considered the place together with the danger they
were in, they proposed to send one of the tallest men to try if
the sea between them and the rock were fordable. This counsel
they presently put in execution and found it according to their
desire. So they all marched over to the rock, where they remained
till the canoe came to them; which was about seven hours. It was
the latter part of the ebb when they first went over, and then
the rock was dry; but when the tide of flood returned again the
rock was covered, and the water still flowing; so that if our
canoe had stayed but one hour longer they might have been in as
great danger of their lives from the sea as before from the
Spaniards; for the tide rises here about eight foot. The
Spaniards remained on the shore, expecting to see them destroyed,
but never came from behind the bushes where they first planted
themselves; they having not above 3 or 4 hand-guns, the rest of
them being armed with lances. The Spaniards in these parts are
very expert in heaving or darting the lance; with which upon
occasion, they will do great feats, especially in ambuscades: and
by their good will, they care not for fighting otherwise, but
content themselves with standing aloof, threatening and calling
names, at which they are as expert as the other; so that if their
tongues be quiet, we always take it for granted they have laid
some ambush. Before night our canoe came aboard, and brought our
men all safe. The next day two canoes were sent to the bottom of
the bay to seek for a large canoe, which we were informed was
there. The Spaniards have neither ships nor barks here, and but a
few canoes, which they seldom use: neither are there any
fishermen here, as I judge, because fish is very scarce; for I
never saw any here, neither could any of our men ever take any;
and yet wherever we come to an anchor we always send out our
strikers, and put our hooks and lines overboard, to try for fish.
The next day our men returned out of the bay and brought the
canoe with them, which they were sent for, and three or four days
afterwards the two canoes were sent out again for another, which
they likewise brought aboard. These canoes were fitted with
thwarts or benches, straps and oars fit for service; and one of
these Captain Eaton had for his share, and we the other, which we
fixed for landing men when occasion required.

LANCE-WOOD.

While we lay here we filled our water and cut a great many
looms, or handles, or staves for oars; for here is plenty of
lance-wood, which is most proper for that use. I never saw any in
the South Seas but in this place: there is plenty of it in
Jamaica, especially at a place called Bluefields (not Bluefield's
River which is on the Main) near the west end of that island. The
lance-wood grows straight like our young ash; it is very hard,
tough, and heavy, therefore privateers esteem it very much, not
only to make looms for oars, but scouring-rods for their guns;
for they have seldom less than three or four spare rods for fear
one should break, and they are much better than rods made of
ash.

The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis, the
company's quartermaster, was made Captain by consent of all the
company; for it was his place by succession. The 20th day of July
we sailed from this bay of Caldera with Captain Eaton and our
prize which we brought from Galapagos in company, directing our
course for Realejo. The wind was at north, which although but an
ordinary wind yet carried us in three days abreast of our
intended port.

VOLCAN VIEJO, A BURNING MOUNTAIN ON THE COAST OF REALEJO.

Realejo is the most remarkable land on all this coast, for
there is a high peaked burning mountain, called by the Spaniards
Volcan Viejo, or the Old Volcano. This must be brought to bear
north-east then steer in directly with the mountain, and that
course will bring you to the harbour. The sea-winds are here at
south-south-west, therefore ships that come hither must take the
sea-winds, for there is no going in with the land-wind. The
volcano may be easily known, because there is not any other so
high a mountain near it, neither is there any that appears in the
like form all along the coast; besides it smokes all the day, and
in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire. This
mountain may be seen twenty leagues; being within three leagues
of the harbour, the entrance into it may be seen; there is a
small flat low island which makes the harbour. It is about a mile
long and a quarter of a mile broad, and is from the Main about a
mile and a half. There is a channel at each end of the island,
the west channel is the widest and safest, yet at the north-west
point of the island there is a shoal which ships must take heed
of going in. Being past that shoal, you must keep close to the
island, for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the
Main almost half way. The east channel is not so wide, besides
there runs a stronger tide; therefore ships seldom or never go in
that way. This harbour is capable of receiving 200 sail of ships;
the best riding is near the Main, where there is seven or eight
fathom water, clean hard sand.

Realejo Town is two leagues from hence, and there are 2 creeks
that run towards it; the westermost comes near the back side of
the town, the other runs up to the town, but neither ships nor
barks can go so far. These creeks are very narrow, and the land
on each side drowned and full of red mangrove-trees. About a mile
and a half below the town, on the banks of the east creek, the
Spaniards had cast up a strong breast-work; it was likewise
reported they had another on the west creek, both so
advantageously placed that ten men might with ease keep 200 men
from landing. I shall give a description of the town in my return
hither, and therefore forbear to do it here. Wherefore, to resume
the thread of our course, we were now in sight of the volcano,
being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore, and the
mountain bearing north-east we took in our topsails and hauled up
our courses, intending to go with our canoes into the harbour in
the night.

A TORNADO.

In the evening we had a very hard tornado out of the
north-east with much thunder, lightning, and rain. The violence
of the wind did not last long, yet it was 11 o'clock at night
before we got out our canoes, and then it was quite calm. We
rowed in directly for the shore and thought to have reached it
before day, but it was 9 o'clock in the morning before we got
into the harbour.

THE ISLAND AND HARBOUR OF REALEJO.

When we came within a league of the island of Realejo, that
makes the harbour, we saw a house on it, and coming nearer we saw
two or three men, who stood and looked on us till we came within
half a mile of the island, then they went into their canoe, which
lay on the inside of the island, and rowed towards the Main; but
we overtook them before they got over, and brought them back
again to the island. There was a horseman right against us on the
Main when we took the canoe, who immediately rode away towards
the town as fast as he could. The rest of our canoes rowed
heavily and did not come to the island till 12 o'clock, therefore
we were forced to stay for them. Before they came we examined the
prisoners who told us that they were set there to watch, for the
governor of Realejo received a letter about a month before,
wherein he was advised of some enemies come into the sea, and
therefore admonished him to be careful; that immediately
thereupon the governor had caused a house to be built on this
island, and ordered four men to be continually there to watch
night and day; and if they saw any ship coming thither they were
to give notice of it. They said they did not expect to see boats
or canoes, but looked out for a ship. At first they took us in
our advanced canoe to be some men that had been cast away and
lost our ship; till, seeing 3 or 4 canoes more, they began to
suspect what we were. They told us likewise that the horseman
which we saw did come to them every morning, and that in less
than an hour's time he could be at the town. When Captain Eaton
and his canoes came ashore we told them what had happened. It was
now three hours since the horseman rode away, and we could not
expect to get to the town in less than two hours; in which time
the governor having notice of our coming might be provided to
receive us at his breast-works; therefore we thought it best to
defer this design till another time.

THE GULF OF AMAPALLA AND POINT GASIVINA.

There is a fine spring of fresh water on the island; there are
some trees also, but the biggest part is savannah, whereon is
good grass, though there is no sort of beast to eat it. This
island is in latitude 12 degrees 10 minutes north. Here we stayed
till 4 o'clock in the afternoon; then, our ships being come
within a league of the shore, we all went on board, and steered
for the Gulf of Amapalla, intending there to careen our
ships.

The 26th of July Captain Eaton came aboard our ship to consult
with Captain Davis how to get some Indians to assist us in
careening: it was concluded that, when we came near the gulf,
Captain Davis should take two canoes well manned and go before,
and Captain Eaton should stay aboard. According to this agreement
Captain Davis went away for the gulf the next day.

ISLES OF MANGERA AND AMAPALLA.

The Gulf of Amapalla is a great arm of the sea running 8 or 10
leagues into the country. It is bounded on the south side of its
entrance with Point Casivina, and on the north-west side with St.
Michael's Mount. Both these places are very remarkable: Point
Casivina is in latitude 12 degrees 40 minutes north: it is a high
round point which at sea appears like an island; because the land
within it is very low. St. Michael's Mount is a very high peaked
hill, not very steep: the land at the foot of it on the
south-east side is low and even, for at least a mile. From this
low land the Gulf of Amapalla enters on that side. Between this
low land and Point Casivina there are two considerable high
islands; the southermost is called Mangera, the other is called
Amapalla; and they are two miles asunder.

Mangera is a high round island, about 2 leagues in compass,
appearing like a tall grove. It is environed with rocks all
round, only a small cove, or sandy bay, on the north-east side.
The mould and soil of this island is black, but not deep; it is
mixed with stones, yet very productive of large tall timber
trees.

THE INDIAN INHABITANTS.

In the middle of the island there is an Indian town, and a
fair Spanish church. The Indians have plantations of maize round
the town, and some plantains: they have a few cocks and hens, but
no other sort of tame fowl; neither have they any sort of beast,
but cats and dogs. There is a path from the town to the sandy
bay, but the way is steep and rocky. At this sandy bay there are
always 10 or 12 canoes lie hauled up dry, except when they are in
use.

Amapalla is a larger island than Mangera; the soil much the
same. There are two towns on it, about two miles asunder; one on
the north side, the other on the east side: that on the east side
is not above a mile from the sea; it stands on a plain on the top
of a hill, the path to it is so steep and rocky that a few men
might keep down a great number only with stones. There is a very
fair church standing in the midst of the town. The other town is
not so big, yet it has a good handsome church. One thing I have
observed in all the Indian towns under the Spanish government, as
well in these parts in the Bay of Campeachy and elsewhere, that
the images of the Virgin Mary and other saints (with which all
their churches were filled) are still painted in an Indian
complexion, and partly in that dress; but in those towns which
are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards, the saints also conform
themselves to the Spanish garb and complexion.

HOG-PLUM-TREE.

The houses here are but mean; the Indians of both plains have
good field maize, remote from the town: they have but few
plantains, but they have abundance of large hog-plum-trees
growing about their houses. The tree that bears this fruit is as
big as our largest plum-tree: the leaf is of a dark green colour
and as broad as the leaf of a plum-tree; but they are shaped like
the hawthorn leaf. The trees are very brittle wood; the fruit is
oval, and as big as a small horse-plum. It is at first very
green, but when it is ripe one side is yellow, the other red. It
has a great stone, and but little substance about it: the fruit
is pleasant enough; but I do not, remember that ever I saw one
thoroughly ripe that had not a maggot or two in it. I do not
remember that I did ever see any of this fruit in the South Seas
but at this place. In the Bay of Campeachy they are very
plentiful, and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their ground.
These Indians have also some fowls, as those at Mangera: no
Spaniards dwell among them but only one padre or priest, who
serves for all three towns; these two at Amapalla and that at
Mangera. They are under the governor of the town of St.
Michael's, at the foot of St. Michael's Mount, to whom they pay
their tribute in maize; being extremely poor, yet very contented.
They have nothing to make money of but their plantations of maize
and their fowls; the padre or friar has his tenths of it, and
knows to a peck how much every man has, and how many fowls, of
which they dare not kill one, though they are sick, without leave
from him. There was (as I said) never another white man on these
islands but the friar. He could speak the Indian language, as all
friars must that live among them. In this vast country of America
there are divers nations of Indians, different in their language,
therefore those friars that are minded to live among any nations
of Indians must learn the language of those people they propose
to teach. Although these here are but poor, yet the Indians in
many other places have great riches which the Spaniards draw from
them for trifles: in such places the friars get plentiful
incomes; as particularly in the Bay of Campeachy, where the
Indians have large cocoa-walks; or in other places where they
plant cochineel-trees, or silvester-trees; or where they gather
vinelloes, and in such places where they gather gold. In such
places as these the friars do get a great deal of wealth. There
was but one of all the Indians on both these islands that could
speak Spanish; he could write Spanish also, being bred up
purposely to keep the registers and books of account: he was
secretary to both islands. They had a casica too (a small sort of
magistrate the Indians have amongst themselves) but he could
neither write nor speak Spanish.

OTHER ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF AMAPALLA.

There are a great many more islands in this bay, but none
inhabited as these. There is one pretty large island belonging to
a nunnery, as the Indians told us, this was stocked with bulls
and cows; there were 3 or 4 Indians lived there to look after the
cattle, for the sake of which we often frequented this island
while we lay in the bay: they are all low islands except Amapalla
and Mangera. There are two channels to come into this gulf, one
between Point Casivina and Mangera, the other between Mangera and
Amapalla: the latter is the best. The riding-place is on the east
side of Amapalla, right against a spot of low ground; for all the
island except this one place is high land. Running in farther
ships may anchor near the Main, on the north-east side of the
island Amapalla. This is the place most frequented by Spaniards:
it is called the Port of Martin Lopez. This gulf or lake runs in
some leagues beyond all the islands; but it is shoal water and
not capable of ships.

It was into this gulf that Captain Davis was gone with the two
canoes to endeavour for a prisoner, to gain intelligence, if
possible, before our ships came in: he came the first night to
Mangera, but for want of a pilot did not know where to look for
the town. In the morning he found a great many canoes hauled up
on the bay; and from that bay found a path which led him and his
company to the town. The Indians saw our ships in the evening
coming towards the island, and, being before informed of enemies
in the sea, they kept scouts out all night for fear: who, seeing
Captain Davis coming, ran into the town, and alarmed all the
people. When Captain Davis came thither they all run into the
woods. The friar happened to be there at this time; who, being
unable to ramble into the woods, fell into Captain Davis's hands:
there were two Indian boys with him who were likewise taken.
Captain Davis went only to get a prisoner, therefore was well
satisfied with the friar, and immediately came down to the
seaside. He went from thence to the island Amapalla, carrying the
friar and the two Indian boys with him. These were his pilots to
conduct him to the landing-place, where they arrived about noon.
They made no stay here, but left three or four men to look after
the canoes, and Captain Davis with the rest marched to the town,
taking the friar with them. The town, as is before noted, is
about a mile from the landing-place, standing in a plain on the
top of a hill, having a very steep ascent to go to it. All the
Indians stood on the top of the hill waiting Captain Davis's
coming.

The secretary, mentioned before, had no great kindness for the
Spaniards. It was he that persuaded the Indians to wait Captain
Davis's coming; for they were all running into the woods; but he
told them that if any of the Spaniard's enemies came thither it
was not to hurt them, but the Spaniards whose slaves they were;
and that their poverty would protect them. This man with the
casica stood more forward than the rest, at the bank of the hill,
when Captain Davis with his company appeared beneath. They called
out therefore in Spanish, demanding of our men what they were,
and from whence they came? To whom Captain Davis and his men
replied they were Biscayers, and that they were sent thither by
the king of Spain to clear those seas from enemies; that their
ships were coming into the gulf to careen, and that they came
thither before the ships to seek a convenient place for it, as
also to desire the Indian's assistance. The secretary, who, as I
said before, was the only man that could speak Spanish, told them
that they were welcome, for he had a great respect for any Old
Spain men, especially for the Biscayers, of whom he had heard a
very honourable report; therefore he desired them to come up to
their town. Captain Davis and his men immediately ascending the
hill, the friar going before; and they were received with a great
deal of affection by the Indians. The casica and secretary
embraced Captain Davis, and the other Indians received his men
with the like ceremony. These salutations being ended, they all
marched towards the church, for that is the place of all public
meetings, and all plays and pastimes are acted there also;
therefore in the churches belonging to Indian towns they have all
sorts of vizards, and strange antick dresses both for men and
women, and abundance of musical hautboys and strumstrums. The
strumstrum is made somewhat like a sittern; most of those that
the Indians use are made of a large gourd cut in the midst, and a
thin board laid over the hollow, and which is fastened to the
sides; this serves for the belly; over which the strings are
placed. The nights before any holidays, or the nights ensuing,
are the times when they all meet to make merry. Their mirth
consists in singing, dancing, and sporting in those antick
habits, and using as many antick gestures. If the moon shine they
use but few torches, if not, the church is full of light. There
meet at these times all sorts of both sexes. All the Indians that
I have been acquainted with who are under the Spaniards seem to
be more melancholy than other Indians that are free; and at these
public meetings, when they are in the greatest of their jollity,
their mirth seems to be rather forced than real. Their songs are
very melancholy and doleful; so is their music: but whether it be
natural to the Indians to be thus melancholy, or the effect of
their slavery, I am not certain: but I have always been prone to
believe that they are then only condoling their misfortunes, the
loss of their country and liberties: which although these that
are now living do not know, nor remember what it was to be free,
yet there seems to be a deep impression of the thoughts of the
slavery which the Spaniards have brought them under, increased
probably by some traditions of their ancient freedom.

Captain Davis intended when they were all in the church to
shut the doors and then make a bargain with them, letting them
know what he was, and so draw them afterwards by fair means to
our assistance: the friar being with him, who had also promised
to engage them to it: but before they were all in the church, one
of Captain Davis's men pushed one of the Indians to hasten him
into the church. The Indian immediately ran away, and all the
rest taking the alarm sprang out of the church like deer; it was
hard to say which was first: and Captain Davis, who knew nothing
of what happened, was left in the church only with the friar.
When they were all fled, Captain Davis's men fired and killed the
secretary; and thus our hopes perished by the indiscretion of one
foolish fellow.

CAPTAIN EATON AND CAPTAIN DAVIS CAREEN THEIR SHIPS HERE, AND
AFTERWARDS PART.

In the afternoon the ships came into the gulf between Point
Casivina and Mangera, and anchored near the island Amapalla on
the east side in 10 fathom water, clean hard sand. In the evening
Captain Davis and his company came aboard, and brought the friar
with them; who told Captain Davis that if the secretary had not
been killed he could have sent him a letter by one of the Indians
that was taken at Mangera, and persuaded him to come to us; but
now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the
casica, and that himself would instruct him what to say, and did
not question but the casica would come in on his word. The next
day we sent ashore one of the Indians, who before night returned
with the casica and six other Indians, who remained with us all
the time that we stayed here. These Indians did us good service;
especially in piloting us to an island where we killed beef
whenever we wanted; and for this their service we satisfied them
to their hearts' content. It was at this island Amapalla that a
party of Englishmen and Frenchmen came afterwards, and stayed a
great while, and at last landed on the Main, and marched overland
to the Cape River, which disembogues into the North Seas near
Cape Gracias a Dios, and is therefore called the Cape River: near
the head of this river they made bark-logs (which I shall
describe in the next chapter) and so went into the North Seas.
This was the way that Captain Sharp had proposed to go if he had
been put to it; for this way was partly known by privateers by
the discovery that was made into the country about 30 years
since, by a party of Englishmen that went up that river in
canoes, about as far as the place where these Frenchmen made
their bark-logs: there they landed and marched to a town called
Segovia in the country. They were near a month getting up the
river, for there were many cataracts where they were often forced
to leave the river and haul their canoes ashore over the land
till they were past the cataracts, and then launch their canoes
again into the river. I have discoursed several men that were in
that expedition, and if I mistake not Captain Sharp was one of
them. But to return to our voyage in hand; when both our ships
were clean and our water filled Captain Davis and Captain Eaton
broke off consortships. Captain Eaton took aboard of his ship 400
packs of flour, and sailed out of the gulf the second day of
September.

Chapter VI

They Depart from Amapalla.

The third day of September 1684 we sent the friar ashore and
left the Indians in possession of the prize which we brought in
hither, though she was still half laden with flour, and we sailed
out with the land-wind, passing between Amapalla and Mangera.
When we were a league out we saw a canoe coming with sail and
oars after us; therefore we shortened sail and stayed for her.
She was a canoe sent by the governor of St. Michael's Town to our
captain, desiring him not to carry away the friar. The messenger
being told that the friar was set ashore again at Amapalla he
returned with joy, and we made sail again, having the wind at
west-north-west.

TORNADOES.

We steered towards the coast of Peru; we had tornadoes every
day till we made Cape San Francisco, which from June to November
are very common on these coasts; and we had with the tornadoes
very much thunder, lightning, and rain. When the tornadoes were
over the winds, which while they lasted was most from the
south-east, came about again to the west, and never failed us
till we were in sight of Cape San Francisco, where we found the
wind at south with fair weather.

CAPE SAN FRANCISCO.

This cape is in latitude 01 degrees 00 north. It is a high
bluff, or full point of land, clothed with tall great trees.
Passing by this point, coming from the north, you will see a
small low point which you might suppose to be the cape; but you
are then past it, and presently afterwards it appears with three
points. The land in the country within this cape is very high,
and the mountains commonly appear very black.

THEY MEET CAPTAIN EATON, AND PART AGAIN.

When we came in with this cape we overtook Captain Eaton,
plying under the shore: he in his passage from Amapalla, while he
was on that coast, met with such terrible tornadoes of thunder
and lightning that, as he and all his men related, they had never
met with the like in any place. They were very much affrighted by
them, the air smelling very much of sulphur, and they
apprehending themselves in great danger of being burnt by the
lightning. He touched at the island Cocos, and put ashore 200
packs of flour there, and loaded his boat with coconuts, and took
in fresh water. In the evening we separated again from Captain
Eaton; for he stood off to sea and we plied up under the shore,
making our best advantage both of sea and land-winds. The
sea-winds are here at south, the land-winds at south-south-east,
but sometimes when we came abreast of the river we should have
the wind at south-east.

ISLE OF PLATA DESCRIBED.

The 20th day of September we came to the island Plata, and
anchored in 16 fathom. We had very good weather from the time
that we fell in with Cape San Francisco; and were now fallen in
again with the same places from whence I begin the account of
this voyage in the first chapter, having now compassed in the
whole continent of the South America.

The island Plata, as some report, was so named by the
Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Cacafoga, a ship
chiefly laden with plate, which they say he brought hither and
divided it here with his men. It is about four mile long, and a
mile and a half broad, and of a good height. It is bounded with
high steep cliffs clear round, only at one place on the east
side. The top of it is flat and even, the soil sandy and dry: the
trees it produces are but small-bodied, low, and grow thin; and
there are only three or four sorts of trees, all unknown to us. I
observed they were much overgrown with long moss. There is good
grass, especially in the beginning of the year. There is no water
on this island but at one place on the east side, close by the
sea; there it drills slowly down from the rocks, where it may be
received into vessels. There was plenty of goats but they are now
all destroyed. There is no other sort of land-animal that I did
ever see: here are plenty of boobies and men-of-war-birds. The
anchoring-place is on the east side near the middle of the island
close by the shore, within 2 cables' length of the sandy bay:
there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth
water; for the south-east point of the island shelters from the
south winds which constantly blow here. From the south-east point
there strikes out a small shoal a quarter of a mile into the sea,
where there is commonly a great rippling or working of short
waves during all the flood. The tide runs pretty strong, the
flood to the south and the ebb to the north. There is good
landing on the sandy bay against the anchoring-place, from whence
you may go up into the island, and at no place besides. There are
2 or 3 high, steep, small rocks at the south-east point, not a
cable's length from the island; and another much bigger at the
north-east end: it is deep water all round, but at the
anchoring-place, and at the shoal at the south-east point. This
island lies in latitude 01 degrees 10 minutes south. It is
distant from Cape San Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues, bearing from it
west-south-west and half a point westerly. At this island are
plenty of those small sea-turtle spoken of in my last
chapter.

ANOTHER MEETING WITH CAPTAIN EATON, AND THEIR FINAL
PARTING.

The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us: he was
very willing to have consorted with us again; but Captain Davis's
men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain
Eaton's men an equal share with them in what they got: therefore
Captain Eaton stayed here but one night, and the next day sailed
from hence, steering away to the southward. We stayed no longer
than the day ensuing, and then we sailed towards Point Santa
Helena, intending there to land some men purposely to get
prisoners for intelligence.

POINT SANTA HELENA.

Point Santa Helena bears south from the island Plata. It lies
in latitude 2 degrees 15 minutes south. The point is pretty high,
flat, and even at top, overgrown with many great thistles, but no
sort of tree; at a distance it appears like an island because the
land within it is very low.

This point strikes out west into the sea, making a pretty
large bay on the north side. A mile within the point on the sandy
bay close by the sea there is a poor small Indian village called
Santa Helena; the land about it is low, sandy and barren, there
are no trees nor grass growing near it; neither do the Indians
produce any fruit, grain, or plant but watermelons only, which
are large and very sweet. There is no fresh water at this place
nor near it; therefore the inhabitants are obliged to fetch all
their water from the river Colanche, which is in the bottom of
the bay, about 4 leagues from it.

ALGATRANE, A SORT OF TAR.

Not far from this town, on the bay close by the sea, about 5
paces from high-water mark, there is a sort of bituminous matter
boils out of a little hole in the earth; it is like thin tar: the
Spaniards call it algatrane. By much boiling it becomes hard like
pitch. It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of pitch;
and the Indians that inhabit here save it in jars. It boils up
most at high water; and then the Indians are ready to receive it.
These Indians are fishermen and go out to sea on bark-logs. Their
chief subsistence is maize, most of which they get from ships
that come hither from Algatrane. There is good anchoring to
leeward of the point right against the village: but on the west
side of the point it is deep water and no anchoring.

A SPANISH WRECK.

The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich ship
driven ashore here in calm for want of wind to work her. As soon
as ever she struck she heeled off to sea, 7 or 8 fathom water,
where she lies to this day; none having attempted to fish for
her, because she lies deep, and there falls in here a great high
sea.

CRUISINGS.

When we were abreast of this point, we sent away our canoes in
the night to take the Indian village. They landed in the morning
betimes close by the town and took some prisoners. They took
likewise a small bark which the Indians had set on fire, but our
men quenched it and took the Indians that did it; who being asked
wherefore he set the bark on fire said that there was an order
from the viceroy lately set out commanding all seamen to burn
their vessels if attacked by us, and betake themselves to their
boats. There was another bark in a small cove a mile from the
village, thither our men went, thinking to take her, but the
seamen that were aboard set her in flames and fled: in the
evening our men came aboard and brought the small bark with them,
the fire of which they had quenched; and then we returned again
towards Plata; where we arrived the 26th day of September.

MANTA, NEAR CAPE SAN LORENZO.

In the evening we sent out some men in our bark lately taken,
and canoes, to an Indian village called Manta, two or three
leagues to the westward of Cape San Lorenzo; hoping there to get
other prisoners, for we could not learn from those we took at
Point Santa Helena the reason why the viceroy should give such
orders to burn the ships. They had a fresh sea-breeze till about
12 o'clock at night, and then it proved calm; wherefore they
rowed away with their canoes as near to the town as they thought
convenient, and lay still till day.

Manta is a small Indian village on the Main, distant from the
island Plata 7 or 8 leagues. It stands so advantageously to be
seen, being built on a small ascent, that it makes a very fair
prospect to the sea; yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses.
There is a very fine church, adorned with a great deal of carved
work. It was formerly a habitation for Spaniards, but they are
all removed from hence now. The land about it is dry and sandy,
bearing only a few shrubby trees. These Indians plant no manner
of grain or root, but are supplied from other places; and
commonly keep a stock of provision to relieve ships that want;
for this is the first settlement that ships can touch at which
come from Panama bound to Lima, or any other port in Peru. The
land, being dry and sandy, is not fit to produce crops of maize;
which is the reason they plant none. There is a spring of good
water between the village and the sea.

MONTE CHRISTO.

On the back of the town, a pretty way up in the country, there
is a very high mountain, towering up like a sugar-loaf, called
Monte Christo. It is a very good sea-mark, for there is none like
it on all the coast. The body of this mountain bears due south
from Manta. About a mile and a half from the shore, right against
the village, there is a rock, which is very dangerous, because it
never appears above water; neither does the sea break on it,
because there is seldom any great sea; yet it is now so well
known that all ships bound to this place do easily avoid it. A
mile within this rock there is good anchoring in 6, 8, or 10
fathom water, good hard sand and clear ground. And a mile from
the road on the west side there is a shoal running out a mile
into the sea. From Manta to Cape San Lorenzo the land is plain
and even, of an indifferent height. [See a farther account of
these coasts in the Appendix.]

CRUISINGS.

As soon as ever the day appeared our men landed, and marched
towards the village, which was about a mile and a half from their
landing-place: some of the Indians who were stirring saw them
coming and alarmed their neighbours; so that all that were able
got away. They took only two old women who both said that it was
reported that a great many enemies were come overland through the
country of Darien into the South Seas, and that they were at
present in canoes and periagos: and that the viceroy upon this
news had set out the forementioned order for burning their own
ships. Our men found no sort of provision here; the viceroy
having likewise sent orders to all sea ports to keep no
provision, but to just supply themselves. These women also said
that the Manta Indians were sent over to the island Plata to
destroy all the goats there; which they performed about a month
agone. With this news our men returned again, and arrived at
Plata the next day.

We lay still at the island Plata, being not resolved what to
do; till the 2nd day of October, and then Captain Swan in the
Cygnet of London arrived there. He was fitted out by very eminent
merchants of that city, on a design only to trade with the
Spaniards or Indians, having a very considerable cargo well
sorted for these parts of the world; but meeting with divers
disappointments and, being out of hopes to obtain a trade in
these seas, his men forced him to entertain a company of
privateers which he met with near Nicoya, a town whither he was
going to seek a trade, and these privateers were bound thither in
boats to get a ship. These were the men that we had heard of at
Manta; they came overland under the command of Captain Peter
Harris, nephew to that Captain Harris who was killed before
Panama. Captain Swan was still commander of his own ship, and
Captain Harris commanded a small bark under Captain Swan. There
was much joy on all sides when they arrived; and immediately
hereupon Captain Davis and Captain Swan consorted, wishing for
Captain Eaton again. Our little bark, which was taken at Santa
Helena, was immediately sent out to cruise, while the ships were
fitting; for Captain Swan's ship being full of goods was not fit
to entertain his new guest till the goods were disposed of;
therefore he by the consent of the supercargo got up all his
goods on deck, and sold to anyone that would buy upon trust: the
rest was thrown overboard into the sea except fine goods, as
silks, muslins, stockings, etc., and except the iron, whereof he
had a good quantity, both wrought and in bars: this was saved for
ballast.

The third day after our bark was sent to cruise she brought in
a prize of 400 tuns, laden with timber: they took her in the Bay
of Guayaquil; she came from a town of that name and was bound to
Lima. The commander of this prize said that it was generally
reported and believed at Guayaquil that the viceroy was fitting
out 10 sail of frigates to drive us out of these seas. This news
made our unsettled crew wish that they had been persuaded to
accept of Captain Eaton's company on reasonable terms. Captain
Davis and Captain Swan had some discourse concerning Captain
Eaton; they at last concluded to send our small bark towards the
coast of Lima, as far as the island Lobos, to seek Captain Eaton.
This being approved by all hands she was cleaned the next day and
sent away, manned with twenty men, ten of Captain Davis's, and
ten of Swan's men, and Captain Swan writ a letter directed to
Captain Eaton, desiring his company, and the isle of Plata was
appointed for the general rendezvous. When this bark was gone we
turned another bark which we had into a fire-ship; having six or
seven carpenters who soon fixed her; and while the carpenters
were at work about the fire-ship we scrubbed and cleaned our
men-of-war as well as time and place would permit.

The 19th day of October we finished our business, and the 20th
day we sailed towards the island Lobos, where our bark was
ordered to stay for us, or meet us again at Plata. We had but
little wind, therefore it was the 23rd day before we passed by
Point Santa Helena. The 25th day we crossed over the Bay of
Guayaquil.

CAPE BLANCO.

The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco. This cape is in latitude
3 degrees 45 minutes. It is counted the worst cape in all the
South Seas to double, passing to the southward; for in all other
places ships may stand off to sea 20 or 30 leagues off if they
find they cannot get anything under the shore; but here they dare
not do it: for, by relation of the Spaniards, they find a current
setting north-west which will carry a ship off more in two hours
than they can run in again in five. Besides, setting to the
northward they lose ground: therefore they always beat up in
under the shore, which ofttimes they find very difficult because
the wind commonly blows very strong at south-south-west or south
by west without altering; for here are never any land-winds. This
cape is of an indifferent height: it is fenced with white rocks
to the sea; for which reason, I believe, it has this name. The
land in the country seems to be full of high, steep, rugged and
barren rocks.

PAYTA.

The 2nd day of November we got as high as Payta: we lay about
six leagues off shore all the day, that the Spaniards might not
see us; and in the evening sent our canoes ashore to take it,
manned with 110 men.

Payta is a small Spanish sea port town in the latitude of 5
degrees 15 minutes. It is built on the sand, close by the sea, in
a nook, elbow, or small bay, under a pretty high hill. There are
not above 75 or 80 houses and two churches. The houses are but
low and ill built.

THE BUILDINGS IN PERU.

The building in this country of Peru is much alike on all the
sea-coast. The walls are built of brick made with earth and straw
kneaded together: they are about three foot long, two foot broad,
and a foot and a half thick: they never burn them, but lay them a
long time in the sun to dry before they are used in building. In
some places they have no roofs, only poles laid across from the
side walls and covered with mats; and then those walls are
carried up to a considerable height. But where they build roofs
upon their houses the walls are not made so high, as I said
before. The houses in general all over this kingdom are but
meanly built, one chief reason, with the common people
especially, is the want of materials to build withal; for however
it be more within land, yet here is neither stone nor timber to
build with, nor any materials but such brick as I have described;
and even the stone which they have in some places is so brittle
that you may rub it into sand with your fingers. Another reason
why they build so meanly is because it never rains; therefore
they only endeavour to fence themselves from the sun. Yet their
walls, which are built but with an ordinary sort of brick in
comparison with what is made in other parts of the world,
continue a long time as firm as when first made, having never any
winds nor rains to rot, moulder, or shake them. However, the
richer sort have timber, which they make use of in building; but
it is brought from other places.

THE SOIL OF PERU.

This dry country commences to the northward, from about Cape
Blanco to Coquimbo, in about 30 degrees south, having no rain
that I could ever observe or hear of; nor any green thing growing
in the mountains: neither yet in the valleys, except where here
and there watered with a few small rivers dispersed up and down.
So that the northermost parts of this tract of land are supplied
with timber from Guayaquil, Gallo, Tornato, and other places that
are watered with rains; where there are plenty of all sorts of
timber. In the south parts, as about Guasco and Coquimbo, they
fetch their timber from the island Chiloe, or other places
thereabouts. The walls of churches and rich men's houses are
whitened with lime, both within and without; and the doors and
posts are very large, and adorned with carved work, and the beams
also in the churches: the inside of the houses are hung round
with rich embroidered or painted cloths. They have likewise
abundance of fine pictures, which adds no small ornament to their
houses: these, I suppose, they have from Old Spain. But the
houses of Payta are none of them so richly furnished. The
churches were large and fairly carved: at one end of the town
there was a small fort close by the sea, but no great guns in it.
This fort, only with muskets, will command all the bay so as to
hinder any boats from landing. There is another fort on the top
of the hill, just over the town, which commands both it and the
lower fort.

COLAN.

There is neither wood nor water to be had there: they fetch
their water from an Indian town called Colan, about two leagues
north-north-east from Payta: for at Colan there is a small river
of fresh water which runs out into the sea; from whence ships
that touch at Payta are supplied with water and other
refreshments, as fowls, hogs, plantains, yams, and maize: Payta
being destitute of all these things, only as they fetch them from
Colan, as they have occasion.

BARK LOGS DESCRIBED.

The Indians of Colan are all fishermen: they go out to sea and
fish from bark-logs. Bark-logs are made of many round logs of
wood, in manner of a raft, and very different according to the
use that they are designed for, or the humour of the people that
make them, or the matter that they are made of. If they are made
for fishing then they are only 3 or 4 logs of light wood, of 7 or
8 foot long, placed by the side of each other, pinned fast
together with wooden pins and bound hard with withes. The logs
are so placed that the middlemost are longer than those by the
sides, especially at the head or fore part, which grows narrower
gradually into an angle or point, the better to cut through the
water. Others are made to carry goods: the bottom of these is
made of 20 or 30 great trees of about 20, 30, or 40 foot long,
fastened like the other, side to side, and so shaped: on the top
of these they place another shorter row of trees across them,
pinned fast to each other and then pinned to the undermost row:
this double row of planks makes the bottom of the float, and of a
considerable breadth. From this bottom the raft is raised to
about 10 foot higher, with rows of posts sometimes set upright,
and supporting a floor or two: but those I observed were raised
by thick trees laid across each other, as in wood-piles; only not
close together as in the bottom of the float, but at the ends and
sides only, so as to leave the middle all hollow like a chamber;
except that here and there a beam goes across it to keep the
float more compact. In this hollow at about 4 foot height from
the beams at the bottom they lay small poles along and close
together to make a floor for another room, on the top of which
also they lay another such floor made of poles; and the entrances
into both these rooms is only by creeping between the great
traverse trees which make the walls of this sea-house. The lowest
of these storeys serves as a cellar: there they lay great stones
for ballast, and their jars of fresh water closed up, and
whatever may bear being wet; for, by the weight of the ballast
and cargo, the bottom of this room, and of the whole vessel, is
sunk so deep as to lie 2 or 3 feet within the surface of the
water. The second story is for the seamen and their necessaries.
Above this second story the goods are stowed to what height they
please, usually about 8 or 10 feet, and kept together by poles
set upright quite round: only there is a little space abaft for
the steersmen (for they have a large rudder) and afore for the
fire-hearth, to dress their victuals, especially when they make
long voyages, as from Lima to Truxillo, or Guayaquil, or Panama,
which last voyage is 5 or 600 leagues. In the midst of all, among
the goods, rises a mast, to which is fastened a large sail, as in
our West Country barges in the Thames. They always go before the
wind, being unable to ply against it; and therefore are fit only
for these seas, where the wind is always in a manner the same,
not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima, till such
time as they come into the Bay of Panama: and even there they
meet with no great sea; but sometimes northerly winds; and then
they lower their sails, and drive before it, waiting a change.
All their care then is only to keep off from shore; for they are
so made that they cannot sink at sea. These rafts carry 60 or 70
tuns of goods and upwards; their cargo is chiefly wine, oil,
flour, sugar, Quito-cloth, soap, goat-skins dressed, etc. The
float is managed usually by 3 or 4 men, who, being unable to
return with it against the trade-wind, when they come to Panama
dispose of the goods and bottom together; getting a passage back
again for themselves in some ship or boat bound to the port they
came from; and there they make a new bark-log for their next
cargo.

The smaller sort of bark-logs, described before, which lie
flat on the water and are used for fishing, or carrying water to
ships, or the like (half a tun or a tun at a time) are more
governable than the other, though they have masts and sails too.
With these they go out at night by the help of the land-wind
(which is seldom wanting on this coast) and return back in the
daytime with the sea-wind.

This sort of floats are used in many places both in the East
and West Indies. On the coast of Coromandel in the East Indies
they call them catamarans. These are but one log, or two
sometimes of a sort of light wood, and are made without sail or
rudder, and so small that they carry but one man, whose legs and
breech are always in the water, and he manages his log with a
paddle, appearing at a distance like a man sitting on a fish's
back.

PIURA.

The country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the
rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no town of consequence
nearer it than Piura, which is a large town in the country 40
miles distant. It lies, by report of our Spanish prisoners, in a
valley which is watered with a small river that disembogues
itself into the Bay of Chirapee, in about 7 degrees of north
latitude. This bay is nearer to Piura than Payta; yet all goods
imported by sea for Piura are landed at Payta, for the bay of
Chirapee is full of dangerous shoals, and therefore not
frequented by shipping.

THE ROAD OF PAYTA.

The road of Payta is one of the best on the coast of Peru. It
is sheltered from the south-west by a point of land which makes a
large bay and smooth water for ships to ride in. There is room
enough for a good fleet of ships, and good anchoring in any
depth, from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom. Right against the town,
the nearer the town, the shallower the water and the smoother the
riding, it is clean sand all over the bay. Most ships passing
either to the north or the south touch at this place for water,
for, though here is none at the town, yet those Indian fishermen
of Colan will, and do, supply all ships very reasonably; and good
water is much prized on all this coast through the scarcity of
it.

November the 3rd at 6 o'clock in the morning our men landed
about 4 miles to the south of the town and took some prisoners
that were sent thither to watch for fear of us; and these
prisoners said that the governor of Piura came with 100 armed men
to Payta the night before, purposely to oppose our landing there
if we should attempt it.

Our men marched directly to the fort on the hill, and took it
without the loss of one man. Hereupon the governor of Piura with
all his men and the inhabitants of the town ran away as fast as
they could. Then our men entered the town and found it emptied
both of money and goods; there was not so much as a meal of
victuals left for them.

The prisoners told us a ship had been here a little before and
burnt a great ship in the road, but did not land their men; and
that here they put ashore all their prisoners and pilots. We knew
this must be Captain Eaton's ship which had done this, and by
these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies,
it being always designed by him. The prisoners told us also that,
since Captain Eaton was here, a small bark had been off the
harbour and taken a pair of bark-logs a-fishing, and made the
fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 jars of fresh water. This we
supposed was our bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain
Eaton.

In the evening we came in with our ships and anchored before
the town in 10 fathom water, near a mile from the shore. Here we
stayed till the sixth day, in hopes to get a ransom from the
town. Our captains demanded 300 packs of flour, 3000 pound of
Sugar, 25 jars of wine, and 1000 jars of water to be brought off
to us; but we got nothing of it. Therefore Captain Swan ordered
the town to be fired, which was presently done. Then all our men
came aboard, and Captain Swan ordered the bark which Captain
Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well.

At night, when the land-wind came off, we sailed from hence
towards Lobos. The 10th day in the evening we saw a sail bearing
north-west by north as far as we could well discern her on our
deck. We immediately chased, separating ourselves the better to
meet her in the night; but we missed her. Therefore the next
morning we again trimmed sharp and made the best of our way to
Lobos de la Mar.

LOBOS DE TERRA.

The 14th day we had sight of the island Lobos de Terra: it
bore east from us; we stood in towards it, and betwixt 7 and 8
o'clock in the night came to an anchor at the north-east end of
the island, in 4 fathom water. This island at sea is of an
indifferent height, and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a
quarter of a mile from the north end there is a great hollow
rock, and a good channel between, where there is 7 fathom water.
The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of penguins and
boobies, and seal in great quantities. We sent aboard of all
these to be dressed, for we had not tasted any flesh in a great
while before; therefore some of us did eat very heartily. Captain
Swan, to encourage his men to eat this coarse flesh, would
commend it for extraordinary food, comparing the seal to a
roasted pig, the boobies to hens, and the penguins to ducks: this
he did to train them to live contentedly on coarse meat, not
knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we
departed out of these seas; for it is generally seen among
privateers that nothing emboldens them sooner to mutiny than
want, which we could not well suffer in a place where there are
such quantities of these animals to be had if men could be
persuaded to be content with them.

THEY COME AGAIN TO LOBOS DE LA MAR.

In the afternoon we sailed from Lobos de Terra with the wind
at south by east and arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 19th day.
Here we found a letter, left by our bark that was sent to seek
Captain Eaton, by which we understood that Captain Eaton had been
there but was gone before they arrived, and had left no letter to
advise us which way he was gone; and that our bark was again
returned to Plata in hopes to find us there, or meet us by the
way, else resolving to stay for us there. We were sorry to hear
that Captain Eaton was gone, for now we did not expect to meet
with him any more in these seas.

The 21st day we sent out our Moskito strikers for turtle, who
brought aboard enough to serve both ships' companies; and this
they did all the time that we abode here. While we lay at this
island Captain Swan made new yards, squarer than those he had
before, and made his sails larger, and our ship's company in the
meantime split plank for firewood, and put aboard as many planks
as we could conveniently stow for other uses: here being plank
enough of all sorts which we had brought hither in the first
prize that we took and left here.

The 26th day in the evening we saw a small bark about 3
leagues north-north-west from the island, but, we supposing her
to be our own bark, did not go after her. The next morning she
was two leagues south of the island, standing off to sea; but we
did not now chase her neither, although we knew she was not our
bark; for, being to windward of us, she could have made her
escape if we had chased her. This bark, as we were afterwards
informed, was sent out purposely to see if we were at this
island. Her orders were not to come too near, only to appear in
sight; they supposing that if we were here we should soon be
after her; as indeed it was a wonder we had not chased her: but
our not doing so, and lying close under the island undiscerned by
them, was a great occasion of our coming upon Puna afterwards
unexpectedly, they being now without fear of any enemy so near
them.

THE BAY OF GUAYAQUIL.

The 28th day we scrubbed our ship's bottom, intending to sail
the next day towards Guayaquil; it being concluded upon to
attempt that town before we returned again to Plata. Accordingly,
on the 29th day in the morning, we loosed from hence, steering
directly for the Bay of Guayaquil. This bay runs in between Cape
Blanco on the south side, and Point Chandy on the north.

ISLE OF SANTA CLARA.

About 25 leagues from Cape Blanco, near the bottom of the bay,
there is a small island called Santa Clara, which lies east and
west: it is of an indifferent length, and it appears like a dead
man stretched out in a shroud. The east end represents the head,
and the west end the feet. Ships that are bound into the river of
Guayaquil pass on the south side to avoid the shoals which lie on
the north side of it; whereon formerly ships have been lost.

A RICH SPANISH WRECK THERE.

It is reported by the Spaniards that there is a very rich
wreck lies on the north side of that island, not far from it; and
that some of the plate has been taken up by one who came from Old
Spain, with a patent from the king to fish in those seas for
wrecks; but he dying, the project ceased, and the wreck still
remains as he left it; only the Indians by stealth do sometimes
take up some of it; and they might have taken up much more if it
were not for the cat-fish which swarms hereabouts.

CATFISH.

The cat-fish is much like a whiting, but the head is flatter
and bigger. It has a great wide mouth, and certain small strings
pointing out from each side of it, like cat's whiskers; and for
that reason it is called a cat-fish. It has three fins; one
growing on the top of his back, and one on either side. Each of
these fins has a stiff sharp bone which is very venomous if it
strikes into a man's flesh; therefore it is dangerous diving
where many of these fish are. The Indians that adventured to
search this wreck have to their sorrow experienced it; some
having lost their lives, others the use of their limbs by it:
this we were informed of by an Indian who himself had been
fishing on it by stealth. I myself have known some white men that
have lost the use of their hands only by a small prick with the
fin of these fish: therefore when we catch them with a hook we
tread on them to take the hook out of their mouths, or otherwise,
in flurting about (as all fish will when first taken) they might
accidentally strike their sharp fins into the hands of those that
caught them. Some of the fish are seven or eight pound weight:
some again, in some particular places, are none of them bigger
than a man's thumb, but their fins are all alike venomous. They
use to be at the mouths of rivers, or where there is much mud and
oaze, and they are found all over the American coast, both in the
North and South Sea, at least in the hot countries, as also in
the East Indies: where, sailing with Captain Minchin among
certain islands near the Straits of Malacca, he pointed to an
island at which he told me he lost the use of his hand by one of
these only in going to take the hook out of its mouth. The wound
was scarce visible yet his hand was much swollen, and the pain
lasted about 9 weeks; during most part of which the raging heat
of it was almost ready to distract him. However, though the bony
fins of these fish are so venomous, yet the bones in their bodies
are not so; at least we never perceived any such effect in eating
the fish; and their flesh is very sweet, delicious and wholesome
meat.

PUNTA ARENA IN THE ISLE PUNA.

From the island Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues
east-north-east. This Punta Arena, or Sandy Point, is the
westermost point of the island Puna. Here all ships bound into
the river of Guayaquil anchor, and must wait for a pilot, the
entrance being very dangerous for strangers.

THE ISLAND DESCRIBED.

The island Puna is a pretty large flat low island, stretching
east and west about 12 or 14 leagues long, and about four or five
leagues wide. The tide runs very strong all about this island,
but so many different ways, by reason of the branches, creeks,
and rivers that run into the sea near it, that it casts up many
dangerous shoals on all sides of it. There is in the island only
one Indian town on the south side of it, close by the sea, and
seven leagues from Punta Arena, which town is also called Puna.
The Indians of this town are all seamen, and are the only pilots
in these seas, especially for this river. Their chiefest
employment when they are not at sea is fishing. These men are
obliged by the Spaniards to keep good watch for ships that anchor
at Punta Arena; which, as I said before, is 7 leagues from the
town Puna. The place where they keep this watch is at a point of
land on the island Puna that starts out into the sea; from whence
they can see all ships that anchor at Punta Arena. The Indians
come thither in the morning, and return at night on horseback.
From this watching point to Punta Arena it is 4 leagues, all
drowned mangrove-land: and in the midway between these two points
is another small point, where these Indians are obliged to keep
another watch when they fear an enemy. The sentinel goes thither
in a canoe in the morning, and returns at night; for there is no
coming thither by land through that mangrove marshy ground. The
middle of the island Puna is savannah or pasture.

THE PALMETTO-TREE.

There are some ridges of good woodland which is of a light
yellow or sandy mould, producing large tall trees, most unknown
even to travellers: but there are plenty of palmetto-trees which,
because I am acquainted with, I shall describe. The palmetto-tree
is about the bigness of an ordinary ash: it is about 30 foot
high; the body straight, without any limb, or branch, or leaf,
except at the head only, where it spreads forth into many small
branches, not half so big as a man's arm, some no bigger than
one's finger: these branches are about three or four foot long,
clear from any knot: at the end of the branch there grows one
broad leaf, about the bigness of a large fan. This, when it first
shoots forth, grows in folds, like a fan when it is closed; and
still as it grows bigger so it opens, till it becomes like a fan
spread abroad. It is strengthened towards the stalk with many
small ribs springing from thence, and growing into the leaf;
which as they grow near the end of the leaf, grow thinner and
smaller. The leaves that make the brush part of the flag-brooms
which are brought into England grow just in this manner; and are
indeed a small kind of palmetto; for there are of them of several
dimensions. In Bermuda and elsewhere they make hats, baskets,
brooms, fans to blow the fire instead of bellows, with many other
house implements, of palmetto leaves. On the ridges where these
trees grow the Indians have here and there plantations of maize,
yams, and potatoes.

TOWN AND HARBOUR OF PUNA.

There are in the town of Puna about 20 houses and a small
church. The houses stand all on posts, 10 or 12 foot high, with
ladders on the outside to go up into them. I did never see the
like building anywhere but among the Malayans in the East Indies.
They are thatched with palmetto-leaves, and their chambers well
boarded, in which last they exceed the Malayans. The best place
for ships to lie at an anchor is against the middle of the town.
There is five fathom water within a cables' length of the shore,
and good soft deep oaze where ships may careen or haul ashore; it
stows 15 or 16 foot water up and down.

RIVER OF GUAYAQUIL.

From Puna to Guayaquil is reckoned 7 leagues. It is 1 league
before you come to the river of Guayaquil's mouth, where it is
about two mile wide; from thence upwards the river lies pretty
straight without any considerable turnings. Both sides of the
river are low swampy land, overgrown with red mangroves, so that
there is no landing.

GUAYAQUIL TOWN.

Four mile before you come to the town of Guayaquil there's a
low island standing in the river. This island divides the river
into two parts, making two very fair channels for ships to pass
up and down. The south-west channel is the widest, the other is
as deep, but narrower and narrower yet, by reason of many trees
and bushes which spread over the river, both from the main and
from the island; and there are also several great stumps of trees
standing upright in the water on either side. The island is above
a mile long. From the upper part of the island to the town of
Guayaquil is almost a league, and near as much from one side of
the river to the other. In that spacious place ships of the
greatest burden may ride afloat; but the best place for ships is
nearest to that part of the land where the town stands; and this
place is seldom without ships. Guayaquil stands facing the
island, close by the river, partly on the side and partly at the
foot of a gentle hill declining towards the river, by which the
lower part of it is often overflown. There are two forts, one
standing on the low ground, the other on the hill. This town
makes a very fine prospect, it being beautified with several
churches and other good buildings. Here lives a governor who, as
I have been informed, has his patent from the king of Spain.

ITS COMMODITIES, COCOA, SARSAPARILLA, QUITO CLOTH.

Guayaquil may be reckoned one of the chiefest sea ports in the
South Seas: the commodities which are exported from hence are
cocoa, hides, tallow, sarsaparilla, and other drugs, and woollen
cloth, commonly called cloth of Quito.

The cocoa grows on both sides of the river above the town. It
is a small nut, like the Campeachy nut: I think, the smallest of
the two; they produce as much cocoa here as serves all the
kingdom of Peru; and much of it is sent to Acapulco and from
thence to the Philippine Islands.

Sarsaparilla grows in the water by the sides of the river, as
I have been informed.

The Quito-cloth comes from a rich town in the country within
land called Quito. There is a great deal made, both serges and
broadcloth. This cloth is not very fine, but it is worn by the
common sort of people throughout the whole kingdom of Peru. This
and all other commodities which come from Quito are shipped off
at Guayaquil for other parts; and all imported goods for the city
of Quito pass by Guayaquil: by which it may appear that Guayaquil
is a place of no mean trade.

OF THE CITY, AND GOLD, AND AIR OF QUITO.

Quito, as I have been informed, is a very populous city,
seated in the heart of the country. It is inhabited partly by
Spaniards; but the major part of its inhabitants are Indians,
under the Spanish government.

It is environed with mountains of a vast height, from whose
bowels many great rivers have their rise. These mountains abound
in gold, which by violent rains is washed with the sand into the
adjacent brooks where the Indians resort in troops, washing away
the sand and putting up the gold dust in their calabashes or
gourd-shells: but for the manner of gathering the gold I refer
you to Mr. Wafer's book: only I shall remark here that Quito is
the place in all the kingdom of Peru that abounds most with this
rich metal, as I have been often informed.

The country is subject to great rains and very thick fogs,
especially the valleys. For that reason it is very unwholesome
and sickly. The chiefest distempers are fevers, violent headache,
pains in the bowels, and fluxes. I know no place where gold is
found but what is very unhealthy, as I shall more particularly
relate when I come to speak of Achin in the isle of Sumatra in
the East Indies. Guayaquil is not so sickly as Quito and other
towns farther within land; yet in comparison with the towns that
are on the coast of Mare Pacifico, south of Cape Blanco, it is
very sickly.

THEY ENTER THE BAY IN ORDER TO MAKE AN ATTEMPT ON THE TOWN OF
GUAYAQUIL.

It was to this town of Guayaquil that we were bound; therefore
we left our ships off Cape Blanco and ran into the Bay of
Guayaquil with our bark and canoes, steering in for the island
Santa Clara, where we arrived the next day after we left our
ships, and from thence we sent away two canoes the next evening
to Punta Arena. At this point there are abundance of oysters and
other shellfish, as cockles and mussels; therefore the Indians of
Puna often come hither to get these fish. Our canoes got over
before day and absconded in a creek to wait for the coming of the
Puna Indians. The next morning some of them, according to their
custom, came thither on bark-logs at the latter part of the ebb,
and were all taken by our men. The next day, by their advice, the
two watchmen of the Indian town Puna were taken by our men, and
all its inhabitants, not one escaping. The next ebb they took a
small bark laden with Quito-cloth. She came from Guayaquil that
tide and was bound to Lima, they having advice that we were gone
off the coast by the bark which I said we saw while we lay at the
island Lobos.

A GREAT ADVANTAGE SLIPPED THAT MIGHT HAVE BEEN MADE OF A
COMPANY OF NEGROES TAKEN IN GUAYAQUIL RIVER.

The master of this cloth-bark informed our men that there were
three barks coming from Guayaquil, laden with Negroes: he said
they would come from thence the next tide. The same tide of ebb
that they took the cloth-bark they sent a canoe to our bark,
where the biggest part of the men were, to hasten them away with
speed to the Indian town. The bark was now riding at Punta Arena;
and the next flood she came with all the men and the rest of the
canoes to Puna. The tide of flood being now far spent we lay at
this town till the last of the ebb and then rowed away, leaving
five men aboard our bark who were ordered to lie still till eight
o'clock the next morning, and not to fire at any boat or bark,
but after that time they might fire at any object: for it was
supposed that before that time we should be masters of Guayaquil.
We had not rowed above two mile before we met and took one of the
three barks laden with Negroes; the master of her said that the
other two would come from Guayaquil the next tide of ebb. We cut
her main-mast down and left her at an anchor. It was now strong
flood, and therefore we rowed with all speed towards the town in
hopes to get thither before the flood was down, but we found it
farther than we did expect it to be, or else our canoes, being
very full of men, did not row so fast as we would have them. The
day broke when we were two leagues from the town, and then we had
not above an hour's flood more; therefore our captains desired
the Indian pilot to direct us to some creek where we might
abscond all day, which was immediately done, and one canoe was
sent toward Puna to our bark to order them not to move nor fire
till the next day. But she came too late to countermand the first
orders; for the two barks before mentioned laden with Negroes
come from the town the last quarter of the evening tide, and lay
in the river close by the shore on one side, and we rowed upon
the other side and missed them; neither did they see nor hear us.
As soon as the flood was spent the two barks weighed and went
down with the ebb towards Puna. Our bark, seeing them coming
directly towards them and both full of men, supposed that we by
some accident had been destroyed, and that the two barks were
manned with Spanish soldiers and sent to take our ships, and
therefore they fired three guns at them a league before they came
near. The two Spanish barks immediately came to an anchor, and
the masters got into their boats and rowed for the shore; but our
canoe that was sent from us took them both. The firing of these
three guns made a great disorder among our advanced men, for most
of them did believe they were heard at Guayaquil, and that
therefore it could be no profit to lie still in the creek; but
either row away to the town or back again to our ships. It was
now quarter ebb, therefore we could not move upwards if we had
been disposed so to do. At length Captain Davis said he would
immediately land in the creek where they lay, and march directly
to the town, if but forty men would accompany him: and without
saying more words he landed among the mangroves in the marshes.
Those that were so minded followed him, to the number of forty or
fifty. Captain Swan lay still with the rest of the party in the
creek, for they thought it impossible to do any good that way.
Captain Davis and his men were absent about four hours, and then
returned all wet and quite tired, and could not find any passage
out into the firm land. He had been so far that he almost
despaired of getting back again: for a man cannot pass through
those red mangroves but with very much labour. When Captain Davis
was returned we concluded to be going towards the town the
beginning of the next flood; and, if we found that the town was
alarmed, we purposed to return again without attempting anything
there. As soon as it was flood we rowed away and passed by the
island through the north-east channel, which is the narrowest.
There are so many stumps in the river that it is very dangerous
passing in the night (and that is the time we always take for
such attempts) for the river runs very swift, and one of our
canoes stuck on a stump and had certainly overset if she had not
been immediately rescued by others. When we were come almost to
the end of the island, there was a musket fired at us out of the
bushes on the Main. We then had the town open before us, and
presently saw lighted torches, or candles, all the town over;
whereas before the gun was fired there was but one light:
therefore we now concluded we were discovered: yet many of our
men said that it was a holy day the next day, as it was indeed,
and that therefore the Spaniards were making fireworks, which
they often do in the night against such times. We rowed therefore
a little farther, and found firm land, and Captain Davis pitched
his canoe ashore and landed with his men. Captain Swan and most
of his men did not think it convenient to attempt anything,
seeing the town was alarmed; but at last, being upbraided with
cowardice, Captain Swan and his men landed also. The place where
we landed was about two mile from the town: it was all overgrown
with woods so thick that we could not march through in the night;
and therefore we sat down, waiting for the light of the day. We
had two Indian pilots with us; one that had been with us a month,
who, having received some abuses from a gentleman of Guayaquil,
to be revenged offered his service to us, and we found him very
faithful: the other was taken by us not above two or three days
before, and he seemed to be as willing as the other to assist us.
This latter was led by one of Captain Davis's men, who showed
himself very forward to go to the town, and upbraided others with
faint-heartedness: yet this man (as he afterwards confessed)
notwithstanding his courage, privately cut the string that the
guide was made fast with, and let him go to the town by himself,
not caring to follow him; but when he thought the guide was got
far enough from us, he cried out that the pilot was gone, and
that somebody had cut the cord that tied him. This put every man
in a moving posture to seek the Indian, but all in vain; and our
consternation was great, being in the dark and among woods; so
the design was wholly dashed, for not a man after that had the
heart to speak of going farther. Here we stayed till day and then
rowed out into the middle of the river, where we had a fair view
of the town; which, as I said before, makes a very pleasant
prospect. We lay still about half an hour, being a mile or
something better from the town. They did not fire one gun at us,
nor we at them. Thus our design on Guayaquil failed: yet Captain
Townley and Captain Francois Gronet took it a little while after
this. When we had taken a full view of the town we rowed over the
river, where we went ashore to a beef estancia or farm and killed
a cow, which we dressed and ate. We stayed there till the evening
tide of ebb, and then rowed down the river, and the 9th day in
the morning arrived at Puna. In our way thither we went aboard
the three barks laden with Negroes, that lay at their anchor in
the river, and carried the barks away with us. There were 1000
Negroes in the three barks, all lusty young men and women. When
we came to Puna we sent a canoe to Punta Arena to see if the
ships were come thither. The 12th day she returned again with
tidings that they were both there at anchor. Therefore in the
afternoon we all went aboard of our ships and carried the
cloth-bark with us, and about forty of the stoutest Negro men,
leaving their three barks with the rest; and out of these also
Captain Davis and Captain Swan chose about 14 or 15 apiece, and
turned the rest ashore.

There was never a greater opportunity put into the hands of
men to enrich themselves than we had to have gone with these
Negroes and settled ourselves at Santa Maria, on the Isthmus of
Darien, and employed them in getting gold out of the mines there.
Which might have been done with ease: for about six months before
this Captain Harris (who was now with us) coming overland from
the North Seas with his body of Privateers, had routed the
Spaniards away from the town and gold-mines of Santa Maria, so
that they had never attempted to settle there again since: add to
this that the Indian neighbourhood, who were mortal enemies to
the Spaniards and had been flushed by their successes against
them, through the assistance of the privateers, for several
years, were our fast friends and ready to receive and assist us.
We had, as I have said, 1000 Negroes to work for us, we had 200
tun of flour that lay at the Galapagos, there was the river of
Santa Maria, where we could careen and fit our ships; and might
fortify the mouth so that if all the strength the Spaniards have
in Peru had come against us we could have kept them out. If they
lay with guard-ships of strength to keep us in, yet we had a
great country to live in, and a great nation of Indians that were
our friends: besides, which was the principal thing, we had the
North Seas to befriend us; from whence we could export ourselves,
or effects, or import goods or men to our assistance; for in a
short time we should have had assistance from all parts of the
West Indies; many thousands of privateers from Jamaica and the
French islands especially would have flocked over to us; and long
before this time we might have been masters not only of those
mines (the richest gold-mines ever yet found in America) but of
all the coast as high as Quito: and much more than I say might
then probably have been done.

THEY GO TO PLATA AGAIN.

But these may seem to the reader but golden dreams: to leave
them therefore; the 13th day we sailed from Punta Arena towards
Plata to seek our bark that was sent to the island Lobos in
search of Captain Eaton. We were two ships in company and two
barks; and the 16th day we arrived at Plata, but found no bark
there, nor any letter. The next day we went over to the main to
fill water, and in our passage met our bark: she had been a
second time at the island Lobos and, not finding us, was coming
to Plata again. They had been in some want of provision since
they left us, and therefore they had been at Santa Helena, and
taken it; where they got as much maize as served them three or
four days; and that, with some fish and turtle which they struck,
lasted them till they came to the island Lobos de Terra. They got
boobies' and penguins' eggs, of which they laid in a store; and
went from thence to Lobos de la Mar where they replenished their
stock of eggs, and salted up a few young seal, for fear they
should want: and, being thus victualled, they returned again
towards Plata.

ISLE PLATA.

When our water was filled we went over again to the island
Plata. There we parted the cloths that were taken in the
cloth-bark into two lots or shares; Captain Davis and his men had
one part and Captain Swan and his men had the other part. The
bark which the cloth was in Captain Swan kept for a tender. At
this time here were at Plata a great many large turtles, which I
judge came from the Galapagos, for I had never seen any here
before though I had been here several times. This was their
coupling-time, which is much sooner in the year here than in the
West Indies, properly so called. Our strikers brought aboard
every day more than we could eat. Captain Swan had no striker,
and therefore had no turtle but what was sent him from Captain
Davis; and all his flour too he had from Captain Davis: but since
our disappointment at Guayaquil Captain Davis's men murmured
against Captain Swan, and did not willingly give him any
provision, because he was not so forward to go thither as Captain
Davis. However at last these differences were made up and we
concluded to go into the Bay of Panama, to a town called La
Velia; but, because we had not canoes enough to land our men, we
were resolved to search some rivers where the Spaniards have no
commerce, there to get Indian canoes.

Chapter VII

They Leave the Isle of Plata.

The 23rd day of December 1684 we sailed from the island Plata
towards the Bay of Panama: the wind at south-south-east a fine
brisk gale and fine weather.

CAPE PASSAO.

The next morning we passed by Cape Passao. This cape is in
latitude 00 degrees 08 minutes south of the Equator. It runs out
into the sea with a high round point which seems to be divided in
the midst. It is bald against the sea, but within land and on
both sides it is full of short trees. The land in the country is
very high and mountainous and it appears to be very woody.

THE COAST BETWEEN THAT AND CAPE SAN FRANCISCO; AND FROM THENCE
ON TO PANAMA.

Between Cape Passao and Cape San Francisco the land by the sea
is full of small points, making as many little sandy bays between
them; and is of an indifferent height covered with trees of
divers sorts; so that sailing by this coast you see nothing but a
vast grove or wood; which is so much the more pleasant because
the trees are of several forms, both in respect to their growth
and colour.

Our design was, as I said in my first chapter, to search for
canoes in some river where the Spaniards have neither settlement
or trade with the native Indians. We had Spanish pilots, and
Indians bred under the Spaniards, who were able to carry us into
any harbour or river belonging to the Spaniards, but were wholly
unacquainted with those rivers which were not frequented by the
Spaniards. There are many such unfrequented rivers between Plata
and Panama: indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulf of St.
Michaels, or even to Panama itself, the coast is not inhabited by
any Spaniards, nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way
under their subjection: except only near the isle Gallo, where,
on the banks of a gold river or two, there are some Spaniards who
work there to find gold.

Now our pilots being at a loss on these less-frequented
coasts, we supplied that defect out of the Spanish pilot-books,
which we took in their ships; these we found by experience to be
very good guides. Yet nevertheless the country in many places by
the sea being low, and full of openings, creeks and rivers, it is
somewhat difficult to find any particular river that a man
designs to go to, where he is not well acquainted.

This however could be no discouragement to us; for one river
might probably be as well furnished with Indian canoes as
another; and, if we found them, it was to us indifferent where,
yet we pitched on the river St. Jago, not because there were not
other rivers as large and as likely to be inhabited with Indians
as it; but because that river was not far from Gallo, an island
where our ships could anchor safely and ride securely. We passed
by Cape San Francisco, meeting with great and continued rains.
The land by the sea to the north of the cape is low and
extraordinary woody; the trees are very thick and seem to be of a
prodigious height and bigness. From Cape San Francisco the land
runs more easterly into the Bay of Panama. I take this cape to be
its bounds on the south side, and the isles of Cobaya or Quibo to
bound it on the north side. Between this cape and the isle Gallo
there are many large and navigable rivers. We passed by them all
till we came to the river St. Jago.

THE RIVER OF ST. JAGO.

This river is near 2 degrees north of the Equator. It is large
and navigable some leagues up, and seven leagues from the sea it
divides itself into two parts, making an island that is four
leagues wide against the sea. The widest branch is that on the
south-west side of the island. Both branches are very deep, but
the mouth of the narrower is so choked with shoals that at low
water even canoes can't enter. Above the island it is a league
wide, and the stream runs pretty straight and very swift. The
tide flows about three leagues up the river, but to what height I
know not. Probably the river has its original from some of the
rich mountains near the city Quibo, and it runs through a country
as rich in soil as perhaps any in the world, especially when it
draws within 10 or 12 leagues of the sea. The land there, both on
the island and on both sides of the river, is of a black deep
mould, producing extraordinary great tall trees of many sorts,
such as usually grow in these hot climates. I shall only give an
account of the cotton and cabbage-trees, whereof there is great
plenty; and they are as large of their kinds as ever I saw.

THE RED AND THE WHITE COTTON-TREE.

There are two sorts of cotton-trees, one is called the red,
the other the white cotton-tree. The white cotton-tree grows like
an oak, but generally much bigger and taller than our oaks: the
body is straight and clear from knots or boughs to the very head:
there it spreads forth many great limbs just like an oak. The
bark is smooth and of a grey colour: the leaves are as big as a
large plum-leaf, jagged at the edge; they are oval, smooth, and
of a dark green colour. Some of these trees have their bodies
much bigger 18 or 20 foot high than nearer the ground, being
big-bellied like ninepins. They bear a very fine sort of cotton,
called silk-cotton. When this cotton is ripe the trees appear
like our apple-trees in England when full of blossoms. If I do
not mistake the cotton falls down in November or December: then
the ground is covered white with it. This is not substantial and
continuous, like that which grows upon the cotton-shrubs in
plantations, but like the down of thistles; so that I did never
know any use made of it in the West Indies, because it is not
worth the labour of gathering it: but in the East Indies the
natives gather and use it for pillows. It has a small black seed
among it. The leaves of this tree fall off the beginning of
April; while the old leaves are falling off the young ones spring
out, and in a week's time the tree casts off her old robes and is
clothed in a new pleasant garb. The red cotton-tree is like the
other, but hardly so big: it bears no cotton, but its wood is
somewhat harder of the two, yet both sorts are soft spongy wood,
fit for no use that I know but only for canoes, which, being
straight and tall, they are very good for; but they will not last
long, especially if not drawn ashore often and tarred; otherwise
the worm and the water soon rot them. They are the biggest trees,
or perhaps weeds rather, in the West Indies. They are common in
the East and West Indies in good fat land.

THE CABBAGE-TREE.

As the cotton is the biggest tree in the woods, so the
cabbage-tree is the tallest: the body is not very big, but very
high and straight. I have measured one in the Bay of Campeachy
120 feet long as it lay on the ground, and there are some much
higher. It has no limbs nor boughs, but at the head there are
many branches bigger than a man's arm. These branches are not
covered but flat with sharp edges; they are 12 or 14 foot long.
About two foot from the trunk the branches shoot forth small long
leaves about an inch broad, which grow so regularly on both sides
of the branch that the whole branch seems to be but one leaf made
up of many small ones. The cabbage-fruit shoots out in the midst
of these branches from the top of the tree; it is invested with
many young leaves or branches which are ready to spread abroad as
the old branches drop and fall down. The cabbage itself, when it
is taken out of the leaves which it seems to be folded in, is as
big as the small of a man's leg and a foot long; it is as white
as milk and as sweet as a nut if eaten raw, and it is very sweet
and wholesome if boiled. Besides the cabbage itself there grow
out between the cabbage and the large branches small twigs, as of
a shrub, about two foot long from their stump. At the end of
those twigs (which grow very thick together) there hang berries
hard and round and as big as a cherry. These the trees shed every
year, and they are very good for hogs: for this reason the
Spaniards fine any who shall cut down any of these in their
woods. The body of the tree is full of rings round it, half a
foot asunder from the bottom to the top. The bark is thin and
brittle; the wood is black and very hard, the heart or middle of
the tree is white pith. They do not climb to get the cabbage but
cut them down; for should they gather it off the tree as it
stands, yet its head being gone it soon dies. These trees are
much used by planters in Jamaica to board the sides of the
houses, for it is but splitting the trunk into four parts with an
axe, and there are so many planks. Those trees appear very
pleasant, and they beautify the whole wood, spreading their green
branches above all other trees.

All this country is subject to very great rains, so that this
part of Peru pays for the dry weather which they have about Lima
and all that coast. I believe that is one reason why the
Spaniards have made such small discoveries in this and other
rivers on this coast. Another reason may be because it lies not
so directly in their way; for they do not coast it along in going
from Panama to Lima, but first go westward as far as to the keys
or isles of Cobaya, for a westerly wind, and from thence stand
over towards Cape San Francisco, not touching anywhere usually
till they come to Manta near Cape San Lorenzo. In their return
indeed from Lima to Panama they may keep along the coast
hereabouts; but then their ships are always laden; whereas the
light ships that go from Panama are most at leisure to make
discoveries. A third reason may be the wildness and enmity of all
the natives on this coast, who are naturally fortified by their
rivers and vast woods, from whence with their arrows they can
easily annoy any that shall land there to assault them. At this
river particularly there are no Indians live within 6 leagues of
the sea, and all the country so far is full of impassable woods;
so that to get at the Indians, or the mines and mountains, there
is no way but by rowing up the river; and if any who are enemies
to the natives attempt this (as the Spaniards are always hated by
them) they must all the way be exposed to the arrows of those who
would lie purposely in ambush in the woods for them. These wild
Indians have small plantations of maize and good
plantain-gardens; for plantains are their chiefest food. They
have also a few fowls and hogs.

THE INDIANS OF ST. JAGO RIVER, AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

It was to this river that we were bound to seek for canoes,
therefore the 26th, supposing ourselves to be abreast of it, we
went from our ships with 4 canoes. The 27th day in the morning we
entered at half flood into the smaller branch of that river, and
rowed up six leagues before we met any inhabitants. There we
found two small huts thatched with palmetto-leaves. The Indians,
seeing us rowing towards their houses, got their wives and little
ones, with their household stuff, into their canoes, and paddled
away faster than we could row; for we were forced to keep in the
middle of the river because of our oars, but they with their
paddles kept close under the banks, and so had not the strength
of the stream against them, as we had. These huts were close by
the river on the east side of it, just against the end of the
island. We saw a great many other houses a league from us on the
other side of the river; but the main stream into which we were
now come seemed to be so swift that we were afraid to put over
for fear we should not be able to get back again. We found only a
hog, some Fowls and plantains in the huts: we killed the hog and
the Fowls, which were dressed presently. Their hogs they got (as
I suppose) from the Spaniards by some accident, or from some
neighbouring Indians who converse with the Spaniards; for this
that we took was of their European kind, which the Spaniards have
introduced into America very plentifully, especially into the
islands Jamaica, Hispaniola, and Cuba above all, being very
largely stored with them; where they feed in the woods in the
daytime, and at night come in at the sounding of a conch-shell,
and are put up in their crauls or pens, and yet some turn wild,
which nevertheless are often decoyed in by the other, which being
all marked, whenever they see an unmarked hog in the pen, they
know it is a wild one, and shoot him presently. These crauls I
have not seen on the Continent where the Spaniards keep them tame
at home. Among the wild Indians, or in their woods, are no hogs,
but peccary and warree, a sort I have mentioned before.

After we had refreshed ourselves we returned toward the mouth
of the river. It was the evening when we came from thence, and we
got to the river's mouth the next morning before day: our ships
when we left them were ordered to go to Gallo, where they were to
stay for us.

THE ISLE OF GALLO.

Gallo is a small uninhabited island lying in between two and
three degrees north latitude. It lies in a wide bay about three
leagues from the mouth of the river Tomaco; and four leagues and
a half from a small Indian village called Tomaco: the island
Gallo is of an indifferent height; it is clothed with very good
timber-trees, and is therefore often visited with barks from
Guayaquil and other places: for most of the timber carried from
Guayaquil to Lima is first fetched from Gallo. There is a spring
of good water at the north-east end: at that place there is a
fine small sandy bay, where there is good landing. The road for
ships is against this bay, where there is good secure riding in
six or seven fathom water; and here ships may careen. It is but
shoal water all about this island; yet there is a channel to come
in at, where there is no less than four fathom water: you must go
in with the tide of flood and come out with ebb, sounding all the
way.

Tomaco is a large river that takes its name from an Indian
village so called: it is reported to spring from the rich
mountains about Quito. It is thick inhabited with Indians; and
there are some Spaniards that live there who traffic with the
Indians for gold. It is shoal at the mouth of the river yet barks
may enter.

THE RIVER AND VILLAGE OF TOMACO.

This village Tomaco is but small, and is seated not far from
the mouth of the river. It is a place to entertain the Spanish
merchants that come to Gallo to load timber, or to traffic with
the Indians for gold. At this place one Doleman, with seven or
eight men more, once of Captain Sharp's crew, were killed in the
year 1680. From the branch of the river St. Jago, where we now
lay, to Tomaco is about five leagues; the land low and full of
creeks so that canoes may pass within land through those creeks,
and from thence into Tomaco River.

The 28th day we left the river of St. Jago, crossing some
creeks in our way with our canoes; and came to an Indian house
where we took the man and all his family. We stayed here till the
afternoon, and then rowed towards Tomaco, with the man of this
house for our guide. We arrived at Tomaco about 12 o'clock at
night. Here we took all the inhabitants of the village and a
Spanish knight called Don Diego de Pinas. This knight came in a
ship from Lima to lade timber. The ship was riding in a creek
about a mile off, and there were only one Spaniard and 8 Indians
aboard. We went in a canoe with 7 men and took her; she had no
goods but 12 or 13 jars of good wine, which we took out, and the
next day let the ship go. Here an Indian canoe came aboard with
three men in her. These men could not speak Spanish, neither
could they distinguish us from Spaniards; the wild Indians
usually thinking all white men to be Spaniards. We gave them 3 Or
4 calabashes of wine, which they freely drank. They were
straight-bodied and well-limbed men of a mean height; their hair
black, long-visaged, small noses and eyes; and were thin-faced,
ill-looked men, of a very dark copper colour. A little before
night Captain Swan and all of us returned to Tomaco and left the
vessel to the seamen. The 31st day two of our canoes who had been
up the river of Tomaco returned back again to the village. They
had rowed seven or eight leagues up and found but one Spanish
house, which they were told did belong to a lady who lived at
Lima; she had servants here that traded with the Indians for
gold; but they seeing our men coming ran away: yet our men found
there several ounces of gold in calabashes.

The first day of January 1685 we went from Tomaco towards
Gallo. We carried the knight with us and two small canoes which
we took there, and while we were rowing over one of our canoes
took a packet-boat that was sent from Panama to Lima. The
Spaniards threw the packet of letters overboard with a line and a
buoy to it, but our men seeing it took it up, and brought the
letters and all the prisoners aboard our ships that were then at
an anchor at Gallo. Here we stayed till the 6th day, reading the
letters, by which we understood that the armada from Old Spain
was come to Portobello: and that the president of Panama had sent
this packet on purpose to hasten the Plate fleet thither from
Lima.

We were very joyful of this news, and therefore sent away the
packet-boat with all her letters; and we altered our former
resolutions of going to Lavelia. We now concluded to careen our
ships as speedily as we could, that we might be ready to
intercept this fleet. The properest place that we could think on
for doing it was among the King's Islands or Pearl Keys, because
they are near Panama and all ships bound to Panama from the coast
of Lima pass by them; so that being there we could not possibly
miss the fleet. According to these resolutions we sailed the next
morning, in order to execute what we designed. We were two ships
and three barks in company, namely, Captain Davis, Captain Swan,
a fire-ship, and two small barks as tenders; one on Captain
Davis's ship, the other on Captain Swan's. We weighed before day
and got out all but Captain Swan's tender, which never budged;
for the men were all asleep when we went out and, the tide of
flood coming on before they waked, we were forced to stay for
them till the next day.

The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the west of
us; the wind was at south and we chased her and before noon took
her. She was a ship of about 90 tun laden with flour; she came
from Truxillo and was bound to Panama. This ship came very
opportunely to us for flour began to grow scarce, and Captain
Davis's men grudged at what was given to Captain Swan; who, as I
said before, had none but what he had from Captain Davis.

We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgona, an
island lying about 25 leagues from the island Gallo. The 9th day
we anchored at Gorgona, on the west side of the island in 38
fathom clean ground, not two cables' length from the shore.
Gorgona is an uninhabited island in latitude about three degrees
north: it is a pretty high island, and very remarkable by reason
of two saddles, or risings and fallings on the top. It is about 2
leagues long and a league broad; and it is four leagues from the
Main: at the west end is another small island. The land against
the anchoring-place is low; there is a small sandy bay and good
landing. The soil or mould of it is black and deep in the low
ground, but on the side of the high land it is a kind of a red
clay. This island is very well clothed with large trees of
several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year. It's
very well watered with small brooks that issue from the high
land. Here are a great many little black monkeys, some Indian
conies, and a few snakes, which are all the land animals that I
know there. It is reported of this island that it rains on every
day in the year more or less; but that I can disprove: however,
it is a very wet coast, and it rains abundantly here all the year
long. There are but few fair days; for there is little difference
in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry; only in that
season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent
and more moderate than in the wet season, for then it pours as
out of a sieve. It is deep water and no anchoring anywhere about
this island, only at the west side: the tide rises and falls
seven or eight foot up and down. Here are a great many
periwinkles and mussels to be had at low water. Then the monkeys
come down by the seaside and catch them; digging them out of
their shells with their claws.

Here are pearl-oysters in great plenty: they grow to the loose
rocks in 4, 5, or 6 fathom water by beards, or little small
roots, as a mussel: these oysters are commonly flatter and
thinner than other oysters; otherwise much alike in shape. The
fish is not sweet nor very wholesome; it is as slimy as a
shell-snail; they taste very copperish if eaten raw, and are best
boiled. The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the
meat of them on strings like jews-ears, and dry them before they
eat them. The pearl is found at the head of the oyster lying
between the meat and the shell. Some will have 20 or 30 small
seed-pearl, some none at all, and some will have one or two
pretty large ones. The inside of the shell is more glorious than
the pearl itself. I did never see any in the South Seas but here.
It is reported there are some at the south end of California. In
the West Indies, the Rancho Reys, or Rancheria, spoken of in
Chapter 3, is the place where they are found most plentifully. It
is said there are some at the island Margarita, near St.
Augustin, a town in the Gulf of Florida, etc. In the East Indies
the island Ainam, near the south end of China, is said to have
plenty of these oysters, more productive of large round pearl
than those in other places. They are found also in other parts of
the East Indies, and on the Persian coast.

ISLE OF GORGONA, THE PEARL-OYSTERS THERE AND IN OTHER
PARTS.

At this island Gorgona we rummaged our prize and found a few
boxes of marmalade and three or four jars of brandy, which were
equally shared between Captain Davis and Captain Swan and their
men. Here we filled all our water and Captain Swan furnished
himself with flour: afterward we turned ashore a great many
prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better
place.

The 13th day we sailed from hence towards the King's Islands.
We were now six sail, two men-of-war, two tenders, a fire-ship,
and the prize. We had but little wind but what we had was the
common trade at south.

THE LAND ON THE MAIN.

The land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the
seaside, but in the country there are very high mountains.

CAPE CORRIENTES.

The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes. This cape is in
latitude 5 degrees 10 minutes. It is high bluff land with three
or four small hillocks on the top. It appears at a distance like
an island. Here we found a strong current running to the north,
but whether it be always so I know not. The day after we passed
by the cape we saw a small white island which we chased,
supposing it had been a sail, till coming near we found our
error.

POINT GARACHINA.

The 21st day we saw Point Garachina. This point is in latitude
7 degrees 20 minutes north; it is pretty high land, rocky, and
destitute of trees; yet within land it is woody. It is fenced
with rocks against the sea. Within the point by the sea at low
water you may find store of oysters and mussels.

The King's Islands, or Pearl Keys, are about twelve leagues
distant from this point.

ISLAND GALLERA.

Between Point Garachina and them there is a small low flat
barren island called Gallera, at which Captain Harris was sharing
with his men the gold he took in his pillaging Santa Maria, which
I spoke of a little before, when on a sudden five Spanish barks
fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him; but he fought them
so stoutly with one small bark he had and some few canoes,
boarding their admiral particularly, that they were all glad to
leave him. By this island we anchored and sent our boats to the
King's Islands for a good careening-place.

THE KING'S, OR PEARL, ISLANDS, PACHEQUE ST. PAUL'S ISLAND.

The King's Islands are a great many low woody islands lying
north-west by north and south-east by south. They are about 7
leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length, and from Panama
about 12 leagues. Why they are called the King's Islands I know
not; they are sometimes, and mostly in maps, called the Pearl
Islands. I cannot imagine wherefore they are called so, for I did
never see one pearl-oyster about them, nor any
pearl-oyster-shells; but on the other oysters I have made many a
meal there: the northermost island of all this range is called
Pacheca, or Pacheque. This is but a small island distant from
Panama 11 or 12 leagues. The southermost of them is called St.
Paul's. Besides these two I know no more that are called by any
particular name, though there are many that far exceed either of
the two in bigness. Some of these islands are planted with
plantains and bananas; and there are fields of rice on others of
them. The gentlemen of Panama, to whom they belong, keep Negroes
there to plant, weed, and husband the plantations. Many of them,
especially the largest, are wholly untilled, yet very good fat
land full of large trees. These unplanted islands shelter many
runaway Negroes, who abscond in the woods all day, and in the
night boldly pillage the plantain-walks. Betwixt these islands
and the Main is a channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide; there is good
depth of water, and good anchoring all the way. The islands
border thick on each other; yet they make many small narrow deep
channels, fit only for boats to pass between most of them. At the
south-east end, about a league from St. Pauls Island, there is a
good place for ships to careen, or haul ashore. It is surrounded
with the land, and has a good deep channel on the north side to
go in at. The tide rises here about ten foot perpendicular.

We brought our ships into this place the 25th day but were
forced to tarry for a spring-tide before we could have water
enough to clean them; therefore we first cleaned our barks that
they might cruise before Panama while we lay here. The 27th day
our barks being clean we sent them out with 20 men in each. The
4th day after they returned with a prize laden with maize, or
Indian corn, salt-beef, and fowls. She came from Lavelia and was
bound to Panama.

LAVELIA.

Lavelia is a town we once designed to attempt. It is pretty
large, and stands on the bank of a river on the north side of the
Bay of Panama, six or seven leagues from the sea.

NATA. THE CATFISH. OYSTERS.

Nata is another such town, standing in a plain near another
branch of the same river. In these towns, and some others on the
same coast, they breed hogs, fowls, bulls, and cows, and plant
maize purposely for the support of Panama, which is supplied with
provision mostly from other towns and the neighbouring
islands.

The beef and fowl our men took came to us in a good time, for
we had eaten but little flesh since we left the island Plata. The
harbour where we careened was encompassed with three islands, and
our ships rode in the middle. That on which we hauled our ships
ashore was a little island on the north side of the harbour.
There was a fine small sandy bay, but all the rest of the island
was environed with rocks on which at low water we did use to
gather oysters, clams, mussels, and limpets. The clam is a sort
of oyster which grows so fast to the rock that there is no
separating it from thence, therefore we did open it where it
grows, and take out the meat, which is very large, fat, and
sweet. Here are a few common oysters such as we have in England,
of which sort I have met with none in these seas but here, at
Point Garachina, at Puna, and on the Mexican coast, in the
latitude of 23 degrees north. I have a manuscript of Mr. Teat,
Captain Swan's chief mate, which gives an account of oysters
plentifully found in Port St. Julian, on the east side and
somewhat to the north of the Straits of Magellan; but there is no
mention made of what oysters they are. Here are some iguanas, but
we found no other sort of land-animal. Here are also some pigeons
and turtle-doves. The rest of the islands that encompass this
harbour had of all these sorts of creatures. Our men therefore
did every day go over in canoes to them to fish, fowl, or hunt
for iguanas; but, having one man surprised once by some Spaniards
lying there in ambush, and carried off by them to Panama, we were
after that more cautious of straggling.

The 14th day of February 1685 we made an end of cleaning our
ship, filled all our water, and stocked ourselves with firewood.
The 15th day we went out from among the islands and anchored in
the channel between them and the Main, in 25 fathom water, soft
oazy ground. The Plate fleet was not yet arrived; therefore we
intended to cruise before the city of Panama, which is from this
place about 25 leagues. The next day we sailed towards Panama,
passing in the channel between the King's Islands and the
Main.

THE PLEASANT PROSPECTS IN THE BAY OF PANAMA.

It is very pleasant sailing here, having the Main on one side,
which appears in divers forms. It is beautified with many small
hills, clothed with woods of divers sort of trees, which are
always green and flourishing. There are some few small high
islands within a league of the Main, scattering here and there
one: these are partly woody, partly bare; and they as well as the
Main appear very pleasant. The King's Islands are on the other
side of this channel, and make also a lovely prospect as you sail
by them. These, as I have already noted, are low and flat,
appearing in several shapes, according as they are naturally
formed by many small creeks and branches of the sea. The 16th day
we anchored at Pacheca in 17 fathom water about a league from the
island, and sailed from thence the next day, with the wind at
north-north-east directing our course towards Panama.

OLD PANAMA.

When we came abreast of Old Panama we anchored and sent our
canoe ashore with our prisoner Don Diego de Pinas, with a letter
to the governor to treat about an exchange for our man they had
spirited away, as I said; and another Captain Harris left in the
river of Santa Maria the year before, coming overland. Don Diego
was desirous to go on this errand in the name and with the
consent of the rest of our Spanish prisoners; but by some
accident he was killed before he got ashore, as we heard
afterwards.

Old Panama was formerly a famous place, but it was taken by
Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673, and at that time great part
of it was burned to ashes, and it was never re-edified since.

THE NEW CITY.

New Panama is a very fair city, standing close by the sea,
about four miles from the ruins of the old town. It gives name to
a large bay which is famous for a great many navigable rivers,
some whereof are very rich in gold; it is also very pleasantly
sprinkled with islands that are not only profitable to their
owners, but very delightful to the passengers and seamen that
sail by them; some of which I have already described. It is
encompassed on the back side with a pleasant country which is
full of small hills and valleys, beautified with many groves and
spots of trees that appear in the savannahs like so many little
islands. This city is all compassed with a high stone wall; the
houses are said to be of brick. Their roofs appear higher than
the top of the city wall. It is beautified with a great many fair
churches and religious houses besides the president's house and
other eminent buildings; which altogether make one of the finest
objects that I did ever see, in America especially. There are a
great many guns on her walls, most of which look toward the land.
They had none at all against the sea when I first entered those
seas with Captain Sawkins, Captain Coxon, Captain Sharp, and
others; for till then they did not fear any enemy by sea: but
since that they have planted guns clear round.

THE GREAT CONCOURSE THERE FROM LIMA AND PORTOBELLO, ETC. UPON
THE ARRIVAL OF THE SPANISH ARMADA IN THE WEST INDIES.

This is a flourishing city by reason it is a thoroughfare for
all imported or exported goods and treasure, to and from all
parts of Peru and Chile; whereof their store-houses are never
empty. The road also is seldom or never without ships. Besides,
once in three years, when the Spanish armada comes to Portobello,
then the Plate fleet also from Lima comes hither with the King's
treasure, and abundance of merchant-ships full of goods and
Plate; at that time the city is full of merchants and gentlemen;
the seamen are busy in landing the treasure and goods, and the
carriers, or caravan masters, employed in carrying it overland on
mules (in vast droves every day) to Portobello, and bringing back
European goods from thence: though the city be then so full yet
during this heat of business there is no hiring of an ordinary
slave under a piece-of-eight a day; houses, also chambers, beds
and victuals, are then extraordinary dear.

THE COURSE THE ARMADA TAKES; WITH AN INCIDENTAL ACCOUNT OF THE
FIRST INDUCEMENTS THAT MADE THE PRIVATEERS UNDERTAKE THE PASSAGE
OVER THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN INTO THE SOUTH SEAS, AND OF THE
PARTICULAR BEGINNING OF THEIR CORRESPONDENCE WITH THE INDIANS
THAT INHABIT THAT ISTHMUS.

Now I am on this subject I think it will not be amiss to give
the reader an account of the progress of the armada from Old
Spain, which comes thus every three years into the Indies. Its
first arrival is at Cartagena, from whence, as I have been told,
an express is immediately sent overland to Lima, through the
southern continent, and another by sea to Portobello with two
packets of letters, one for the viceroy of Lima, the other for
the viceroy of Mexico. I know not which way that of Mexico goes
after its arrival at Portobello, whether by land or sea: but I
believe by sea to La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is sent by land to
Panama and from thence by sea to Lima.

Upon mention of these packets I shall digress yet a little
further and acquaint my reader that before my first going over
into the South Seas with Captain Sharp (and indeed before any
privateers, at least since Drake and Oxenham had gone that way
which we afterwards went, except La Sound, a French captain, who
by Captain Wright's instructions had ventured as far as Cheapo
Town with a body of men but was driven back again) I being then
on board Captain Coxon, in company with three or four more
privateers, about four leagues to the east of Portobello, we took
the packets bound thither from Cartagena. We opened a great
quantity of the merchants' letters and found the contents of many
of them to be very surprising, the merchants of several parts of
Old Spain thereby informing their correspondents of Panama and
elsewhere of a certain prophecy that went about Spain that year,
the tenor of which was THAT THERE WOULD BE ENGLISH PRIVATEERS
THAT YEAR IN THE WEST INDIES, WHO WOULD MAKE SUCH GREAT
DISCOVERIES AS TO OPEN A DOOR INTO THE SOUTH SEAS; which they
supposed was fastest shut: and the letters were accordingly full
of cautions to their friends to be very watchful and careful of
their coasts.

This door they spoke of we all concluded must be the passage
overland through the country of the Indians of Darien, who were a
little before this become our friends, and had lately fallen out
with the Spaniards, breaking off the intercourse which for some
time they had with them: and upon calling also to mind the
frequent invitations we had from those Indians a little before
this time to pass through their country and fall upon the
Spaniards in the South Seas, we from henceforward began to
entertain such thoughts in earnest, and soon came to a resolution
to make those attempts which we afterwards did with Captain
Sharp, Coxon, etc., so that the taking these letters gave the
first life to those bold undertakings: and we took the advantage
of the fears the Spaniards were in from that prophecy, or
probable conjecture, or whatever it were; for we sealed up most
of the letters again, and sent them ashore to Portobello.

The occasion of this our late friendship with those Indians
was thus: about 15 years before this time, Captain Wright being
cruising near that coast and going in among the Samballoes Isles
to strike fish and turtle, took there a young Indian lad as he
was paddling about in a canoe. He brought him aboard his ship and
gave him the name of John Gret, clothing him and intending to
breed him among the English. But his Moskito strikers, taking a
fancy to the boy, begged him of Captain Wright, and took him with
them at their return into their own country, where they taught
him their art, and he married a wife among them and learnt their
language, as he had done some broken English while he was with
Captain Wright, which he improved among the Moskitos, who,
corresponding so much with us, do all of them smatter English
after a sort; but his own language he had almost forgot. Thus he
lived among them for many years; till, about six or eight months
before our taking these letters, Captain Wright being again among
the Samballoes, took thence another Indian boy about 10 or 12
years old, the son of a man of some account among those Indians;
and, wanting a striker, he went away to the Moskito's country,
where he took John Gret, who was now very expert at it. John Gret
was much pleased to see a lad there of his own country, and it
came into his mind to persuade Captain Wright upon this occasion
to endeavour a friendship with those Indians; a thing our
privateers had long coveted but never durst attempt, having such
dreadful apprehensions of their numbers and fierceness: but John
Gret offered the captain that he would go ashore and negotiate
the matter; who accordingly sent him in his canoe till he was
near the shore, which of a sudden was covered with Indians
standing ready with their bows and arrows. John Gret, who had
only a clout about his middle as the fashion of the Indians is,
leapt then out of the boat and swam, the boat retiring a little
way back; and the Indians ashore, seeing him in that habit and
hearing him call to them in their own tongue (which he had
recovered by conversing with the boy lately taken) suffered him
quietly to land, and gathered all about to hear how it was with
him. He told them particularly that he was one of their
countrymen, and how he had been taken many years ago by the
English, who had used him very kindly; that they were mistaken in
being so much afraid of that nation who were not enemies to them
but to the Spaniards: to confirm this he told them how well the
English treated another young lad of theirs they had lately
taken, such a one's son; for this he had learnt of the youth, and
his father was one of the company that was got together on the
shore. He persuaded them therefore to make a league with these
friendly people, by whose help they might be able to quell the
Spaniards; assuring also the father of the boy that, if he would
but go with him to the ship which they saw at anchor at an island
there (it was Golden Island, the eastermost of the Samballoes, a
place where there is good striking for turtle) he should have his
son restored to him and they might all expect a very kind
reception. Upon these assurances 20 or 30 of them went off
presently in two or three canoes laden with plantains, bananas,
fowls, etc. And, Captain Wright having treated them on board,
went ashore with them, and was entertained by them, and presents
were made on each side. Captain Wright gave the boy to his father
in a very handsome English dress which he had caused to be made
purposely for him; and an agreement was immediately struck up
between the English and these Indians who invited the English
through their country into the South Seas.

Pursuant to this agreement the English, when they came upon
any such design, or for traffic with them, were to give a certain
signal which they pitched upon, whereby they might be known. But
it happened that Mr. La Sound, the French captain spoken of a
little before, being then one of Captain Wright's men, learnt
this signal, and, staying ashore at Petit Guavres upon Captain
Wright's going thither soon after, who had his commission from
thence, he gave the other French there such an account of the
agreement before mentioned, and the easiness of entering the
South Seas thereupon, that he got at the head of about 120 of
them who made that unsuccessful attempt upon Cheapo, as I said;
making use of the signal they had learnt for passing the Indians'
country, who at that time could not distinguish so well between
the several nations of the Europeans as they can since.

From such small beginnings arose those great stirs that have
been since made over the South Seas, namely, from the letters we
took, and from the friendship contracted with these Indians by
means of John Gret. Yet this friendship had like to have been
stifled in its infancy; for within a few months after an English
trading sloop came on this coast from Jamaica, and John Gret, who
by this time had advanced himself as a grandee among these
Indians, together with five or six more of that quality, went off
to the sloop in their long gowns, as the custom is for such to
wear among them. Being received aboard they expected to find
everything friendly, and John Gret talked to them in English; but
these Englishmen, having no knowledge at all of what had
happened, endeavoured to make them slaves (as is commonly done)
for upon carrying them to Jamaica they could have sold them for
10 or 12 pound apiece. But John Gret and the rest perceiving
this, leapt all overboard, and were by the others killed every
one of them in the water. The Indians on shore never came to the
knowledge of it; if they had it would have endangered our
correspondence. Several times after, upon our conversing with
them, they enquired of us what was become of their countrymen:
but we told them we knew not, as indeed it was a great while
after that we heard this story; so they concluded the Spaniards
had met with them and killed or taken them.

But to return to the account of the progress of the armada
which we left at Cartagena. After an appointed stay there of
about 60 days, as I take it, it goes thence to Portobello, where
it lies 30 days and no longer. Therefore the viceroy of Lima, on
notice of the armada's arrival at Cartagena, immediately sends
away the King's treasure to Panama, where it is landed and lies
ready to be sent to Portobello upon the first news of the
armada's arrival there. This is the reason partly of their
sending expresses so early to Lima, that upon the armada's first
coming to Portobello, the treasure and goods may lie ready at
Panama to be sent away upon the mules, and it requires some time
for the Lima fleet to unlade, because the ships ride not at
Panama but at Perica, which are three small islands 2 leagues
from thence. The King's treasure is said to amount commonly to
about 24,000,000 of pieces-of-eight: besides abundance of
merchants' money. All this treasure is carried on mules, and
there are large stables at both places to lodge them. Sometimes
the merchants to steal the custom pack up money among goods and
send it to Venta de Cruzes on the river Chagre; from thence down
the river, and afterwards by sea to Portobello; in which passage
I have known a whole fleet of periagos and canoes taken. The
merchants who are not ready to sail by the thirteenth day after
the armada's arrival are in danger to be left behind, for the
ships all weigh the 30th day precisely, and go to the harbour's
mouth: yet sometimes, on great importunity, the admiral may stay
a week longer; for it is impossible that all the merchants should
get ready, for want of men. When the armada departs from
Portobello it returns again to Cartagena, by which time all the
King's revenue which comes out of the country is got ready there.
Here also meets them again a great ship called the Pattache, one
of the Spanish galleons, which before their first arrival at
Cartagena goes from the rest of the armada on purpose to gather
the tribute of the coast, touching at the Margaritas and other
places in her way thence to Cartagena, as Punta de Guaira
Moracaybo, Rio de la Hacha, and Santa Marta; and at all these
places takes in treasure for the king. After the set stay at
Cartagena the armada goes away to the Havana in the isle of Cuba,
to meet there the flota, which is a small number of ships that go
to La Vera Cruz, and there takes in the effects of the city and
country of Mexico, and what is brought thither in the ship which
comes thither every year from the Philippine Islands; and, having
joined the rest at the Havana, the whole armada sets sail for
Spain through the Gulf of Florida. The ships in the South Seas
lie a great deal longer at Panama before they return to Lima. The
merchants and gentlemen which come from Lima stay as little time
as they can at Portobello, which is at the best but a sickly
place, and at this time is very full of men from all parts. But
Panama, as it is not overcharged with men so unreasonably as the
other, though very full, so it enjoys a good air, lying open to
the sea-wind which rises commonly about 10 or 11 o'clock in the
morning, and continues till 8 or 9 o'clock at night: then the
land-wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning.

OF THE AIR AND WEATHER AT PANAMA.

There are no woods nor marshes near Panama, but a brave dry
champion land, not subject to fogs nor mists. The wet season
begins in the latter end of May and continues till November. At
that time the sea-breezes are at south-south-west and the
land-winds at north. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt
the east-north-east and the north. Yet off in the bay they are
commonly at south; but of this I shall be more particular in my
Chapter of Winds in the Appendix. The rains are not so excessive
about Panama itself as on either side of the bay; yet in the
months of June, July, and August, they are severe enough.
Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama, especially in these
months, cut their hair close to preserve them from fevers; for
the place is sickly to them, because they come out of a country
which never has any rains or fogs but enjoys a constant serenity;
but I am apt to believe this city is healthy enough to any other
people. Thus much for Panama.

THE ISLES OF PERICO.

The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the
islands Perico (which are only 3 little barren rocky islands) in
expectation of the president of Panama's answer to the letter I
said we sent him by Don Diego, treating about exchange of
prisoners; this being the day on which he had given us his parole
to return with an answer. The 21st day we took another bark laden
with hogs, fowls, salt-beef and molasses; she came from Lavelia,
and was going to Panama. In the afternoon we sent another letter
ashore by a young Mestizo (a mixed brood of Indians and
Europeans) directed to the president, and 3 or 4 copies of it to
be dispersed abroad among the common people. This letter, which
was full of threats, together with the young man's managing the
business, wrought so powerfully among the common people that the
city was in an uproar. The president immediately sent a gentleman
aboard, who demanded the flour-prize that we took off of Gallo
and all the prisoners for the ransom of our two men: but our
captains told him they would exchange man for man. The gentleman
said he had not orders for that, but if we would stay till the
next day he would bring the governors' answer. The next day he
brought aboard our two men and had about 40 prisoners in
exchange.

TABAGO, A PLEASANT ISLAND.

The 24th day we ran over to the island Tabago. Tabago is in
the bay and about six leagues south of Panama. It is about 3 mile
long and 2 broad, a high mountainous island. On the north side it
declines with a gentle descent to the sea. The land by the sea is
of a black mould and deep; but towards the top of the mountain it
is strong and dry. The north side of this island makes a very
pleasant show, it seems to be a garden of fruit enclosed with
many high trees; the chiefest fruits are plantains and bananas.
They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it; but
those near the top are but small, as wanting moisture. Close by
the sea there are many coconut-trees, which make a very pleasant
sight.

THE MAMMEE-TREE.

Within the coconut-trees there grow many mammee-trees. The
mammee is a large, tall, and straight-bodied tree, clean without
knots or limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more. The head spreads abroad
into many small limbs which grow pretty thick and close together.
The bark is of a dark grey colour, thick and rough, full of large
chops. The fruit is bigger than a quince; it is round and covered
with a thick rind of a grey colour: when the fruit is ripe the
rind is yellow and tough; and it will then peel off like leather;
but before it is ripe it is brittle: the juice is then white and
clammy; but when ripe not so. The ripe fruit under the rind is
yellow as a carrot, and in the middle are two large rough stones,
flat, and each of them much bigger than an almond. The fruit
smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell. The
south-west end of the island has never been cleared but is full
of firewood and trees of divers sorts. There is a very fine small
brook of fresh water that springs out of the side of the mountain
and, gliding through the grove of fruit-trees, falls into the sea
on the north side.

THE VILLAGE TABAGO.

There was a small town standing by the sea with a church at
one end, but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the
privateers. There is good anchoring right against the town about
a mile from the shore, where you may have 16 or 18 fathom water,
soft oazy ground. There is a small island close by the north-west
end of this called Tabogilla, with a small channel to pass
between. There is another woody island about a mile on the
north-east side of Tabago, and a good channel between them: this
island has no name that ever I heard.

A SPANISH STRATAGEM OR TWO OF CAPTAIN BOND THEIR ENGINEER.

While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick
played us by a pretended merchant from Panama, who came as by
stealth to traffic with us privately; a thing common enough with
the Spanish merchants, both in the North and South Seas,
notwithstanding the severe prohibition of the governors; who yet
sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the privateers
themselves.

Our merchant was by agreement to bring out his bark laden with
goods in the night, and we to go and anchor at the south of
Perico. Out he came, with a fire-ship instead of a bark, and
approached very near, hailing us with the watch-word we had
agreed upon. We, suspecting the worst, called to them to come to
an anchor, and upon their not doing so fired at them; when
immediately their men, going out into the canoes, set fire to
their ship, which blew up, and burnt close by us so that we were
forced to cut our cables in all haste and scamper away as well as
we could.

The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to
meet us at Perico for there we had sea-room; whereas, had he come
thus upon us at Tabago, the land-wind bearing hard upon us as it
did, we must either have been burnt by the fire-ship or, upon
loosing our cables, have been driven ashore: but I suppose they
chose Perico rather for the scene of their enterprise, partly
because they might there best skulk among the islands, and partly
because, if their exploit failed, they could thence escape best
from our canoes to Panama, but two leagues off.

During this exploit Captain Swan (whose ship was less than
ours, and so not so much aimed at by the Spaniards) lay about a
mile off, with a canoe at the buoy of his anchor, as fearing some
treachery from our pretended merchant; and a little before the
bark blew up he saw a small float on the water and, as it
appeared, a man on it making towards his ship; but the man dived
and disappeared of a sudden, as thinking probably that he was
discovered.

This was supposed to be one coming with some combustible
matter to have stuck about the rudder. For such a trick Captain
Sharp was served at Coquimbo, and his ship had like to have been
burnt by it if, by mere accident, it had not been discovered: I
was then aboard Captain Sharp's ship. Captain Swan, seeing the
blaze by us, cut his cables as we did, his bark did the like; so
we kept under sail all the night, being more scared than hurt.
The bark that was on fire drove burning towards Tabago; but after
the first blast she did not burn clear, only made a smother, for
she was not well made, though Captain Bond had the framing and
management of it.

This Captain Bond was he of whom I made mention in my 4th
chapter. He, after his being at the isles of Cape Verde, stood
away for the South Seas at the instigation of one Richard Morton
who had been with Captain Sharp in the South Seas. In his way he
met with Captain Eaton and they two consorted a day or two: at
last Morton went aboard Captain Eaton and persuaded him to lose
Captain Bond in the night, which Captain Eaton did, Morton
continuing aboard of Captain Eaton, as finding his the better
ship. Captain Bond thus losing both his consort Eaton, and Morton
his pilot, and his ship being but an ordinary sailer, he
despaired of getting into the South Seas; and had played such
tricks among the Caribbean Isles, as I have been told, that he
did not dare to appear at any of the English islands. Therefore
he persuaded his men to go to the Spaniards and they consented to
anything that he should propose: so he presently steered away
into the West Indies and the first place where we came to an
anchor was at Portobello. He presently declared to the governor
that there were English ships coming into the South Seas, and
that if they questioned it, he offered to be kept a prisoner till
time should discover the truth of what he said; but they believed
him and sent him away to Panama where he was in great esteem.
This several prisoners told us.

THE IGNORANCE OF THE SPANIARDS OF THESE PARTS IN
SEA-AFFAIRS.

The Spaniards of Panama could not have fitted out their
fire-ship without this Captain Bond's assistance; for it is
strange to say how grossly ignorant the Spaniards in the West
Indies, but especially in the South Seas, are of sea-affairs.
They build indeed good ships, but this is a small matter: for any
ship of a good bottom will serve for these seas on the south
coast. They rig their ships but untowardly, have no guns but in 3
or 4 of the king's ships, and are meanly furnished with warlike
provisions, and much at a loss for the making any fire-ships or
other less useful machines. Nay, they have not the sense to have
their guns run within the sides upon their discharge, but have
platforms without for the men to stand on to charge them; so that
when we come near we can fetch them down with small shot out of
our boats. A main reason of this is that the native Spaniards are
too proud to be seamen, but use the Indians for all those
offices: one Spaniard, it may be, going in the ship to command
it, and himself of little more knowledge than those poor ignorant
creatures: nor can they gain much experience, seldom going far
off to sea, but coasting along the shores.

A PARTY OF FRENCH PRIVATEERS ARRIVE FROM OVERLAND.

But to proceed: in the morning when it was light we came again
to anchor close by our buoys and strove to get our anchors again;
but our buoy-ropes, being rotten, broke. While we were puzzling
about our anchors we saw a great many canoes full of men pass
between Tabago and the other island. This put us into a new
consternation: we lay still some time till we saw that they came
directly towards us, then we weighed and stood towards them: and
when we came within hail we found that they were English and
French privateers come out of the North Seas through the Isthmus
of Darien. They were 280 men in 28 canoes; 200 of them French,
the rest English. They were commanded by Captain Gronet and
Captain Lequie. We presently came to an anchor again and all the
canoes came aboard. These men told us that there were 180 English
men more, under the command of Captain Townley, in the country of
Darien, making canoes (as these men had been) to bring them into
these seas. All the Englishmen that came over in this party were
immediately entertained by Captain Davis and Captain Swan in
their own ships, and the French men were ordered to have our
flour-prize to carry them, and Captain Gronet being the eldest
commander was to command them there; and thus they were all
disposed of to their hearts' content. Captain Gronet, to
retaliate this kindness, offered Captain Davis and Captain Swan
each of them a new commission from the governor of Petit
Guavres.

OF THE COMMISSIONS THAT ARE GIVEN OUT BY THE FRENCH GOVERNOUR
OF PETIT GUAVRES.

It has been usual for many years past for the governor of
Petit Guavres to send blank commissions to sea by many of his
captains with orders to dispose of them to whom they saw
convenient. Those of Petit Guavres by this means making
themselves the sanctuary and asylum of all people of desperate
fortunes; and increasing their own wealth and the strength and
reputation of their party thereby. Captain Davis accepted of one,
having before only an old commission, which fell to him by
inheritance at the decease of Captain Cook; who took it from
Captain Tristian, together with his bark, as is before mentioned.
But Captain Swan refused it, saying he had an order from the Duke
of York neither to give offence to the Spaniards nor to receive
any affront from them; and that he had been injured by them at
Valdivia, where they had killed some of his men and wounded
several more; so that he thought he had a lawful commission of
his own to right himself. I never read any of these French
commissions while I was in these seas, nor did I then know the
import of them; but I have learnt since that the tenor of them is
to give a liberty to fish, fowl, and hunt. The occasion of this
is that the island Hispaniola, where the garrison of Petit
Guavres is, belongs partly to the French and partly to the
Spaniards; and in time of peace these commissions are given as a
warrant to those of each side to protect them from the adverse
party: but in effect the French do not restrain them to
Hispaniola, but make them a pretence for a general ravage in any
part of America, by sea or land.

OF THE GULF OF ST. MICHAEL, AND THE RIVERS OF CONGOS, SAMBO,
AND SANTA MARIA: AND AN ERROR OF THE COMMON MAPS, IN THE PLACING
POINT GARACHINA AND CAPE SAN LORENZO, CORRECTED.

Having thus disposed of our associates we intended to sail
toward the Gulf of St. Michael to seek Captain Townley; who by
this time we thought might be entering into these seas.
Accordingly the second day of March 1685 we sailed from hence
towards the Gulf of St. Michael. This gulf lies near 30 leagues
from Panama towards the south-east. The way thither from Panama
is to pass between the King's Islands and the Main. It is a place
where many great rivers having finished their courses are
swallowed up in the sea. It is bounded on the south with Point
Garachina, which lies in north latitude 6 degrees 40 minutes, and
on the north side with Cape San Lorenzo. Where, by the way, I
must correct a gross error in our common maps; which, giving no
name at all to the south cape which yet is the most considerable,
and is the true Point Garachina, do give that name to the north
cape, which is of small remark only for those whose business is
into the gulf; and the name San Lorenzo, which is the true name
of this northern point, is by them wholly omitted; the name of
the other point being substituted into its place. The chief
rivers which run into this Gulf of St. Michael are Santa Maria,
Sambo, and Congos. The river Congos (which is the river I would
have persuaded our men to have gone up as their nearest way in
our journey overland, mentioned Chapter 1) comes directly out of
the country, and swallows up many small streams that fall into it
from both sides; and at last loses itself on the north side of
the gulf, a league within Cape San Lorenzo. It is not very wide,
but deep, and navigable some leagues within land. There are sands
without it; but a channel for ships. It is not made use of by the
Spaniards because of the neighbourhood of Santa Maria River;
where they have most business on account of the mines.

The River of Sambo seems to be a great River for there is a
great tide at its mouth; but I can say nothing more of it, having
never been in it.

This river falls into the sea on the south side of the gulf
near Point Garachina. Between the mouths of these two rivers on
either side the gulf runs in towards the land somewhat narrower;
and makes five or six small islands which are clothed with great
trees, green and flourishing all the year, and good channels
between the islands. Beyond which, further in still, the shore on
each side closes so near with two points of low mangrove land as
to make a narrow or strait, scarce half a mile wide. This serves
as a mouth or entrance to the inner part of the gulf, which is a
deep bay two or three leagues over every way, and about the east
end thereof are the mouths of several rivers, the chief of which
is that of Santa Maria. There are many outlets or creeks besides
this narrow place I have described, but none navigable besides
that. For this reason the Spanish guard-ship mentioned in Chapter
1 chose to lie between these two points as the only passage they
could imagine we should attempt; since this is the way that the
privateers have generally taken as the nearest between the North
and South Seas. The river of Santa Maria is the largest of all
the rivers of this gulf. It is navigable eight or nine leagues
up; for so high the tide flows. Beyond that place the river is
divided into many branches which are only fit for canoes. The
tide rises and falls in this river about 18 foot.

OF THE TOWN AND GOLD-MINES OF SANTA MARIA; AND THE TOWN OF
SCUCHADERO.

About six leagues from the river's mouth, on the south side of
it, the Spaniards about 20 years ago, upon their first discovery
of the gold-mines here, built the town Santa Maria, of the same
name with the river. This town was taken by Captain Coxon,
Captain Harris and Captain Sharp, at their entrance into these
seas; it being then but newly built. Since that time it is grown
considerable; for when Captain Harris, the nephew of the former,
took it (as is said in Chapter 6) he found in it all sorts of
tradesmen, with a great deal of flour, and wine, and abundance of
iron crows and pickaxes. These were instruments for the slaves to
work in the gold-mines; for besides what gold and sand they take
up together, they often find great lumps wedged between the
rocks, as if it naturally grew there. I have seen a lump as big
as a hen's egg, brought by Captain Harris from thence (who took
120 pound there) and he told me that there were lumps a great
deal bigger: but these they were forced to beat in pieces that
they might divide them. These lumps are not so solid, but that
they have crevices and pores full of earth and dust. This town is
not far from the mines, where the Spaniards keep a great many
slaves to work in the dry time of the year: but in the rainy
season when the rivers do overflow they cannot work so well. Yet
the mines are so nigh the mountains that, as the rivers soon
rise, so they are soon down again; and presently after the rain
is the best searching for gold in the sands. for the violent
rains do wash down the gold into the rivers, where much of it
settles to the bottom and remains. Then the native Indians who
live hereabouts get most; and of them the Spaniards buy more gold
than their slaves get by working. I have been fold that they get
the value of five shillings a day, one with another. The
Spaniards withdraw most of them with their slaves during the wet
season to Panama. At this town of St. Maria Captain Townley was
lying with his party, making canoes, when Captain Gronet came
into these seas; for it was then abandoned by the Spaniards.

There is another small new town at the mouth of the river
called the Scuchadero: it stands on the north side of the open
place, at the mouth of the river of Santa Maria, where there is
more air than at the mines, or at Santa Maria Town, where they
are in a manner stifled with heat for want of air.

All about these rivers, especially near the sea, the land is
low, it is deep black earth, and the trees it produces are
extraordinary large and high. Thus much concerning the Gulf of
St. Michael, whither we were bound.

The second day of March, as is said before, we weighed from
Perico, and the same night we anchored again at Pacheca. The
third day we sailed from thence steering towards the Gulf.
Captain Swan undertook to fetch off Captain Townley and his men:
therefore he kept near the Main; but the rest of the ships stood
nearer the King's Islands. Captain Swan desired this office
because he intended to send letters overland by the Indians to
Jamaica, which he did; ordering the Indians to deliver his
letters to any English vessel in the other seas. At two o'clock
we were again near the place where we cleaned our ships. There we
saw two ships coming out who proved to be Captain Townley and his
men. They were coming out of the river in the night and took 2
barks bound for Panama: the one was laden with flour, the other
with wine, brandy, sugar, and oil. The prisoners that he took
declared that the Lima fleet was ready to sail.

CAPTAIN TOWNLEY'S ARRIVAL WITH SOME MORE ENGLISH PRIVATEERS
OVERLAND.

We went and anchored among the King's Islands, and the next
day Captain Swan returned out of the river of Santa Maria, being
informed by the Indians that Captain Townley was come over to the
King's Islands. At this place Captain Townley put out a great
deal of his goods to make room for his men.

JARS OF PISCO-WINE.

He distributed his wine and brandy some to every ship that it
might be drank out, because he wanted the jars to carry water in.
The Spaniards in these seas carry all their wine, brandy, and oil
in jars that hold 7 or 8 gallons. When they lade at Pisco (a
place about 40 leagues to the southward of Lima, and famous for
wine) they bring nothing else but jars of wine, and they stow one
tier at the top of another so artificially that we could hardly
do the like without breaking them: yet they often carry in this
manner 1500 or 2000 or more in a ship, and seldom break one. The
10th day we took a small bark that came from Guayaquil: she had
nothing in her but ballast. The 12th day there came an Indian
canoe out of the river of Santa Maria and told us that there were
300 English and Frenchmen more coming overland from the North
Seas.

A BARK OF CAPTAIN KNIGHT'S JOINS THEM.

The 15th day we met a bark with five or six Englishmen in her
that belonged to Captain Knight, who had been in the South Seas
five or six months, and was now on the Mexican coast. There he
had espied this bark; but, not being able to come up with her in
his ship, he detached these five or six men in a canoe, who took
her, but, when they had done, could not recover their own ship
again, losing company with her in the night, therefore they came
into the Bay of Panama intending to go overland back into the
North Seas, but that they luckily met with us: for the Isthmus of
Darien was now become a common road for privateers to pass
between the North and South Seas at their pleasure. This bark of
Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 jars of brandy: she was now
commanded by Mr. Henry More; but Captain Swan, intending to
promote Captain Harris, caused Mr. More to be turned out,
alleging that it was very likely these men were run away from
their commander. Mr. More willingly resigned her, and went aboard
of Captain Swan and became one of his men.

It was now the latter end of the dry season here; and the
water at the King's, or Pearl Islands, of which there was plenty
when we first came hither, was now dried away. Therefore we were
forced to go to Point Garachina, thinking to water our ships
there.

POINT GARACHINA AGAIN.

Captain Harris, being now commander of the new bark, was sent
into the river of Santa Maria to see for those men that the
Indians told us of, whilst the rest of the ships sailed towards
Point Garachina; where we arrived the 21st day, and anchored two
mile from the point, and found a strong tide running out of the
river Sambo. The next day we ran within the point and anchored in
four fathom at low water. The tide rises here eight or nine foot:
the flood sets north-north-east, the ebb south-south-west. The
Indians that inhabit in the river Sambo came to us in canoes and
brought plantains and bananas. They could not speak nor
understand Spanish; therefore I believe they have no commerce
with the Spaniards. We found no fresh water here neither; so we
went from hence to Port Pinas, which is seven leagues south by
west from hence.

PORTO DE PINAS.

Porto Pinas lies in latitude 7 degrees north. It is so called
because there are many pine-trees growing there. The land is
pretty high, rising gently as it runs into the country. This
country near the sea is all covered with pretty high woods: the
land that bounds the harbour is low in the middle, but high and
rocky on both sides. At the mouth of the harbour there are two
small high islands, or rather barren rocks. The Spaniards in
their pilot-books commend this for a good harbour; but it lies
all open to the south-west winds, which frequently blow here in
the wet season: beside, the harbour within the islands is a place
of but small extent, and has a very narrow going in; what depth
of water there is in the harbour I know not.

The 25th day we arrived at this Harbour of Pines but did not
go in with our ship, finding it but an ordinary place to lie at.
We sent in our boats to search it, and they found a stream of
good water running into the sea; but there were such great
swelling surges came into the harbour that we could not
conveniently fill our water there. The 26th day we returned to
Point Garachina again. In our way we took a small vessel laden
with cocoa: she came from Guayaquil. The 29th day we arrived at
Point Garachina: there we found Captain Harris, who had been in
the river of Santa Maria; but he did not meet the men that he
went for: yet he was informed again by the Indians that they were
making canoes in one of the branches of the river of Santa Maria.
Here we shared our cocoa lately taken.

Because we could not fill our water here we designed to go to
Tabago again, where we were sure to be supplied. Accordingly on
the 30th day we set sail, being now nine ships in company; and
had a small wind at south-south-east. The first day of April,
being in the channel between the King's Islands and the Main, we
had much Thunder, lightning, and some rain: this evening we
anchored at the island Pacheca, and immediately sent four canoes
before us to the island Tabago to take some prisoners for
information, and we followed the next day. The 3rd day in the
evening we anchored by Perica, and the next morning went to
Tabago where we found our four canoes. They arrived there in the
night, and took a canoe that came (as is usual) from Panama for
plantains. There were in the canoe four Indians and a Mulatto.
The Mulatto, because he said he was in the fire-ship that came to
burn us in the night, was immediately hanged. These prisoners
confirmed that one Captain Bond, an Englishman, did command
her.

Here we filled our water and cut firewood; and from hence we
sent four canoes over to the Main with one of the Indians lately
taken to guide them to a sugar-work: for now we had cocoa we
wanted sugar to make chocolate. But the chiefest of their
business was to get coppers, for, each ship having now so many
men, our pots would not boil victuals fast enough though we kept
them boiling all the day. About two or three days after they
returned aboard with three coppers.

ISLE OF OTOQUE.

While we lay here Captain Davis's bark went to the island
Otoque. This is another inhabited island in the Bay of Panama;
not so big as Tabago, yet there are good plantain-walks on it,
and some Negroes to look after them. These Negroes rear fowls and
hogs for their masters, who live at Panama; as at the King's
Islands.

THE PACKET FROM LIMA TAKEN.OTHER ENGLISH AND FRENCH PRIVATEERS
ARRIVE.

It was for some fowls or hogs that our men went thither; but
by accident they met also with an express that was sent to Panama
with an account that the Lima fleet was at sea. Most of the
letters were thrown overboard and lost; yet we found some that
said positively that the fleet was coming with all the strength
that they could make in the kingdom of Peru; yet were ordered not
to fight us except they were forced to it: (though afterwards
they chose to fight us, having first landed their treasure at
Lavelia) and that the pilots of Lima had been in consultation
what course to steer to miss us.

For the satisfaction of those who may be curious to know I
have here inserted the resolutions taken by the Committee of
Pilots, as one of our company translated them out of the Spanish
of two of the letters we took. The first letter as follows:

Sir,

Having been with his Excellency, and heard the letter of
Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read; wherein he says there
should be a meeting of the pilots of Panama in the said city,
they say it is not time, putting for objection the Galapagos: to
which I answered that it was fear of the enemy, and that they
might well go that way, I told this to his Excellency, who was
pleased to command me to write this course, which is as
follows.

The day for sailing being come, go forth to the
west-south-west; from that to the west till you are forty leagues
off at sea; then keep at the same distance to the north-west till
you come under the Line: from whence the pilot must shape his
course for Moro de Porco, and for the coast of Lavelia and Natta:
where you may speak with the people, and according to the
information they give, you may keep the same course for Otoque,
from thence to Tabago, and so to Panama: this is what offers as
to the course.

The letter is obscure: but the reader must make what he can of
it. The directions in the other letter were to this effect:

The surest course to be observed going forth from Malabrigo is
thus: you must sail west by south that you may avoid the sight of
the islands of Lobos; and if you should chance to see them, by
reason of the breezes, and should fall to leeward of the latitude
of Malabrigo, keep on a wind as near as you can and, if
necessary, go about and stand in for the shore; then tack and
stand off, and be sure keep your latitude; and when you are 40
leagues to the westward of the island Lobos keep that distance
till you come under the Line; and then, if the general wind
follow you farther, you must sail north-north-east till you come
into 3 degrees north. And if in this latitude you should find the
breezes, make it your business to keep the coast, and so sail for
Panama. If in your course you should come in sight of the land
before you are abreast of Cape San Francisco, be sure to stretch
off again out of sight of land, that you may not be discovered by
the enemy.

The last letter supposes the fleet's setting out from
Malabrigo in about 8 degrees South latitude (as the other does
its going immediately from Lima, 4 degrees further south) and
from hence is that caution given of avoiding Lobos, as near
Malabrigo, in their usual way to Panama, and hardly to be kept
out of sight, as the winds are thereabouts; yet to be avoided by
the Spanish fleet at this time, because, as they had twice before
heard of the privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar, they knew not
but at that time we might be there in expectation of them.

The 10th day we sailed from Tabago towards the King's Islands
again because our pilots told us that the king's ships did always
come this way. The 11th day we anchored at the place where we
careened. Here we found Captain Harris, who had gone a second
time into the river of Santa Maria, and fetched the body of men
that last came overland, as the Indians had informed us: but they
fell short of the number they told us of. The 29th day we sent
250 men in 15 canoes to the river Cheapo to take the town of
Cheapo. The 21st day all our ships but Captain Harris, who stayed
to clean his ships, followed after.

CHEPELIO, ONE OF THE SWEETEST ISLANDS IN THE WORLD.

The 22nd day we arrived at the island Chepelio.

Chepelio is the pleasantest island in the Bay of Panama: it is
but seven leagues from the city of Panama and a league from the
Main. This island is about a mile long and almost so broad; it is
low on the north side, and rises by a small ascent towards the
south side. The soil is yellow, a kind of clay. The high side is
stony; the low land is planted with all sorts of delicate fruits,
namely, sapadillos, avocado-pears, mammees, mammee-sapotas,
star-apples, etc. The midst of the island is planted with
plantain-trees, which are not very large, but the fruit
extraordinary sweet.

THE SAPADILLO, AVOCADO-PEAR, MAMMEE-SAPOTA.

The sapadillo-tree is as big as a large pear-tree, the fruit
much like a bergamot-pear both in colour, shape and size; but on
some trees the fruit is a little longer. When it is green or
first gathered, the juice is white and clammy, and it will stick
like glue; then the fruit is hard, but after it has been gathered
two or three days, it grows soft and juicy, and then the juice is
clear as spring-water and very sweet; in the midst of the fruit
are two or three black stones or seeds, about the bigness of a
pumpkin-seed: this is an excellent fruit.

The avocado-pear-tree is as big as most pear-trees, and is
commonly pretty high; the skin or bark black, and pretty smooth;
the leaves large, of an oval shape, and the fruit as big as a
large lemon. It is of a green colour till it is ripe, and then it
is a little yellowish. They are seldom fit to eat till they have
been gathered two or three days; then they become soft and the
skin or rind will peel off. The substance in the inside is green,
or a little yellowish, and as soft as butter. Within the
substance there is a stone as big as a horse-plum. This fruit has
no taste of itself, and therefore it is usually mixed with sugar
and lime-juice and beaten together in a plate; and this is an
excellent dish. The ordinary way is to eat it with a little salt
and a roasted plantain; and thus a man that's hungry may make a
good meal of it. It is very wholesome eaten any way. It is
reported that this fruit provokes to lust, and therefore is said
to be much esteemed by the Spaniards: and I do believe they are
much esteemed by them, for I have met with plenty of them in many
places in the North Seas where the Spaniards are settled, as in
the Bay of Campeachy, on the coast of Cartagena, and the coast of
Caracas; and there are some in Jamaica, which were planted by the
Spaniards when they possessed that island.

WILD MAMMEE AND STAR-APPLE.

The mammee-sapota-tree is different from the mammee described
at the island Tabago in this chapter. It is not so big or so
tall, neither is the fruit so big or so round. The rind of the
fruit is thin and brittle; the inside is a deep red, and it has a
rough flat long stone. This is accounted the principal fruit of
the West Indies. It is very pleasant and wholesome. I have not
seen any of these on Jamaica but in many places in the West
Indies among the Spaniards. There is another sort of mammee-tree
which is called the wild mammee: this bears a fruit which is of
no value, but the tree is straight, tall, and very tough, and
therefore principally used for making masts.

The star-apple-tree grows much like the quince-tree, but much
bigger. It is full of leaves, and the leaf is broad of an oval
shape, and of a very dark green colour. The fruit is as big as a
large apple, which is commonly so covered with leaves that a man
can hardly see it. They say this is a good fruit; I did never
taste any but have seen both of the trees and fruit in many
places on the Main, on the north side of the continent, and in
Jamaica. When the Spaniards possessed that island they planted
this and other sorts of fruit, as the sapadillo, avocado-pear,
and the like; and of these fruits there are still in Jamaica in
those plantations that were first settled by the Spaniards, as at
the Angels, at 7-mile Walk, and 16-mile Walk. There I have seen
these trees which were planted by the Spaniards, but I did never
see any improvement made by the English, who seem in that little
curious. The road for ships is on the north side, where there is
good anchoring half a mile from the shore. There is a well close
by the sea on the north side, and formerly there were three or
four houses close by it, but now they are destroyed. This island
stands right against the mouth of the river Cheapo.

CHEAPO RIVER AND TOWN.

The river Cheapo springs out of the mountains near the north
side of the country and, it being penned up on the south side by
other mountains, bends its course to the westward between both
till, finding a passage on the south-west, it makes a kind of a
half circle; and, being swelled to a considerable bigness, it
runs with a slow motion into the sea seven leagues from Panama.
This river is very deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad: but
the mouth of it is choked up with sands, so that no ships can
enter, but barks may. There is a small Spanish town of the same
name within six leagues of the sea: it stands on the left hand
going from the sea. This is it which I said Captain La Sound
attempted. The land about it is champion, with many small hills
clothed with woods; but the biggest part of the country is
savannah. On the south side of the river it is all woodland for
many leagues together. It was to this town that our 250 men were
sent. The 24th day they returned out of the river, having taken
the town without any opposition: but they found nothing in it. By
the way going thither they took a canoe, but most of the men
escaped ashore upon one of the King's Islands: she was sent out
well appointed with armed men to watch our motion. The 25th day
Captain Harris came to us, having cleaned his ship. The 26th day
we went again toward Tabago; our fleet now, upon Captain Harris
joining us again, consisted of ten sail. We arrived at Tabago the
28th day: there our prisoners were examined concerning the
strength of Panama; for now we thought ourselves strong enough
for such an enterprise, being near 1000 men. Out of these, on
occasion, we could have landed 900: but our prisoners gave us
small encouragement to it, for they assured us that all the
strength of the country was there, and that many men were come
from Portobello, besides its own inhabitants, who of themselves
were more in number than we. These reasons, together with the
strength of the place (which has a high wall) deterred us from
attempting it. While we lay there at Tabago some of our men burnt
the town on the island.

SOME TRAVERSINGS IN THE BAY OF PANAMA; AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE
STRENGTH OF THE SPANISH FLEET, AND OF THE PRIVATEERS, AND THE
ENGAGEMENT BETWEEN THEM.

The 4th of May we sailed hence again bound for the King's
Islands; and there we continued cruising from one end of these
islands to the other: till on the 22nd day, Captain Davis and
Captain Gronet went to Pacheca, leaving the rest of the fleet at
anchor at St. Paul's Island. From Pacheca we sent two canoes to
the island Chepelio, in hopes to get a prisoner there. The 25th
day our canoes returned from Chepelio with three prisoners which
they took there: they were seamen belonging to Panama, who said
that provision was so scarce and dear there that the poor were
almost starved, being hindered by us from those common and daily
supplies of plantains, which they did formerly enjoy from the
islands; especially from those two of Chepelio and Tabago that
the president of Panama had strictly ordered, that none should
adventure to any of the islands for plantains: but necessity had
obliged them to trespass against the president's order. They
farther reported that the fleet from Lima was expected every day;
for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima: and
that the report at Panama was that King Charles II of England was
dead, and that the Duke of York was crowned King. The 27th day
Captain Swan and Captain Townley also came to Pacheca, where we
lay, but Captain Swan's bark was gone in among the King's Islands
for plantains. The island Pacheca, as I have before related, is
the northermost of the King's Islands. It is a small low island
about a league round. On the south side of it there are two or
three small islands, neither of them half a mile round. Between
Pacheca and these islands is a small channel not above six or
seven paces wide. and about a mile long. Through this Captain
Townley made a bold run, being pressed hard by the Spaniards in
the fight I am going to speak of, though he was ignorant whether
there was a sufficient depth of water or not. On the east side of
this channel all our fleet lay waiting for the Lima fleet, which
we were in hopes would come this way.

The 28th day we had a very wet morning, for the rains were
come in, as they do usually in May, or June, sooner or later; so
that May is here a very uncertain month. Hitherto, till within a
few days, we had good fair weather and the wind at
north-north-east, but now the weather was altered and the wind at
south-south-west.

However about eleven o'clock it cleared up, and we saw the
Spanish fleet about three leagues west-north-west from the island
Pacheca, standing close on a wind to the eastward; but they could
not fetch the island by a league. We were riding a league
south-east from the island between it and the Main; only Captain
Gronet was about a mile to the northward of us near the island:
he weighed so soon as they came in sight and stood over for the
Main; and we lay still, expecting when he would tack and come to
us: but he took care to keep himself out of harm's way.

Captain Swan and Townley came aboard of Captain Davis to order
how to engage the enemy, who we saw came purposely to fight us,
they being in all 14 sail, besides periagos rowing with 12 and 14
oars apiece. Six sail of them were ships of good force: first the
admiral 48 guns, 450 men; the vice-admiral 40 guns, 400 men; the
rear-admiral 36 guns, 360 men; a ship of 24 guns, 300 men; one of
18 guns, 250 men; and one of eight guns, 200 men; two great
fire-ships, six ships only with small arms having 800 men on
board them all; besides 2 or 3 hundred men in periagos. This
account of their strength we had afterwards from Captain Knight
who, being to the windward on the coast of Peru, took prisoners,
of whom he had this information, being what they brought from
Lima. Besides these men they had also some hundreds of Old Spain
men that came from Portobello, and met them at Lavelia, from
whence they now came: and their strength of men from Lima was
3000 men, being all the strength they could make in that kingdom;
and for greater security they had first landed their treasure at
Lavelia.

Our fleet consisted of ten sail: first Captain Davis 36 guns,
156 men, most English; Captain Swan 16 guns, 140 men, all
English: these were the only ships of force that we had; the rest
having none but small arms. Captain Townley had 110 men, all
English. Captain Gronet 308 men, all French. Captain Harris 100
men, most English. Captain Branly 36 men, some English, some
French; Davis's tender eight men; Swan's tender eight men;
Townley's bark 80 men; and a small bark of 30 tuns made a
fire-ship, with a canoe's crew in her. We had in all 960 men. But
Captain Gronet came not to us till all was over, yet we were not
discouraged at it, but resolved to fight them, for, being to
windward of the enemy, we had it at our choice whether we would
fight or not. It was three o'clock in the afternoon when we
weighed, and being all under sail we bore down right afore the
wind on our enemies, who kept close on a wind to come to us; but
night came on without anything beside the exchanging of a few
shot on each side. When it grew dark the Spanish admiral put out
a light as a signal for his fleet to come to an anchor. We saw
the light in the admiral's top, which continued about half an
hour, and then it was taken down. In a short time after we saw
the light again and, being to windward, we kept under sail,
supposing the light had been in the admiral's top; but as it
proved this was only a stratagem of theirs; for this light was
put out the second time at one of their bark's topmast-head, and
then she was sent to leeward; which deceived us: for we thought
still the light was in the admiral's top, and by that means
thought ourselves to windward of them.

In the morning therefore, contrary to our expectation, we
found they had got the weather-gage of us, and were coming upon
us with full sail; so we ran for it and, after a running fight
all day, and having taken a turn almost round the Bay of Panama,
we came to an anchor again at the isle of Pacheca, in the very
same place from whence we set out in the morning.

Thus ended this day's work, and with it all that we had been
projecting for five or six months; when, instead of making
ourselves masters of the Spanish fleet and treasure, we were glad
to escape them; and owed that too, in a great measure, to their
want of courage to pursue their advantage.

The 30th day in the morning when we looked out we saw the
Spanish fleet all together three leagues to leeward of us at an
anchor. It was but little wind till 10 o'clock, and then sprung
up a small breeze at south, and the Spanish fleet went away to
Panama. What loss they had I know not; we lost but one man: and,
having held a consult, we resolved to go to the keys of Quibo or
Cobaya, to seek Captain Harris, who was forced away from us in
the fight; that being the place appointed for our rendezvous upon
any such accident. As for Gronet, he said his men would not
suffer him to join us in the fight: but we were not satisfied
with that excuse; so we suffered him to go with us to the isles
of Quibo, and there cashiered our cowardly companion. Some were
for taking from him the ship which we had given him: but at
length he was suffered to keep it with his men, and we sent them
away in it to some other place.

Chapter VIII

They Set out from Tabago.

According to the resolutions we had taken we set out June the
1st 1685, passing between Point Garachina and the King's Islands.
The wind was at south-south-west rainy weather, with tornadoes of
thunder and lightning.

ISLE OF CHUCHE.

The 3rd day we passed by the island Chuche, the last remainder
of the isles in the Bay of Panama. This is a small, low, round,
woody island, uninhabited; lying four leagues south-south-west
from Pacheca.

In our passage to Quibo Captain Branly lost his main-mast;
therefore he and all his men left his bark, and came aboard
Captain Davis's ship. Captain Swan also sprung his main-top-mast,
and got up another; but while he was doing it and we were making
the best of our way we lost sight of him, and were now on the
north side of the bay; for this way all ships must pass from
Panama whether bound towards the coast of Mexico or Peru.

THE MOUNTAIN CALLED MORO DE PORCOS.

The 10th day we passed by Moro de Porcos, or the mountain of
hogs. Why so called I know not: it is a high round hill on the
coast of Lavelia.

THE COAST TO THE WESTWARD OF THE BAY OF PANAMA.

This side of the Bay of Panama runs out westerly to the
islands of Quibo: there are on this coast many rivers and creeks
but none so large as those on the south side of the bay. It is a
coast that is partly mountainous, partly low land, and very thick
of woods bordering on the sea; but a few leagues within land it
consists mostly of savannahs which are stocked with bulls and
cows. The rivers on this side are not wholly destitute of gold
though not so rich as the rivers on the other side of the bay.
The coast is but thinly inhabited, for except the rivers that
lead up to the towns of Nata and Lavelia I know of no other
settlement between Panama and Puebla Nova. The Spaniards may
travel by land from Panama through all the kingdom of Mexico, as
being full of savannahs; but towards the coast of Peru they
cannot pass further than the river Cheapo; the land there being
so full of thick woods and watered with so many great rivers,
besides less rivers and creeks, that the Indians themselves who
inhabit there cannot travel far without much trouble.

ISLES OF QUIBO, QUICARO, RANCHERIA.

We met with very wet weather in our voyage to Quibo; and with
south-south-west and sometimes south-west winds which retarded
our course. It was the 15th day of June when we arrived at Quibo
and found there Captain Harris, whom we sought. The island Quibo
or Cabaya is in latitude 7 degrees 14 minutes north of the
Equator. It is about six or seven leagues long and three or four
broad. The land is low except only near the north-east end. It is
all over plentifully stored with great tall flourishing trees of
many sorts; and there is good water on the east and north-east
sides of the island. Here are some deer and plenty of pretty
large black monkeys whose flesh is sweet and wholesome: besides a
few iguanas, and some snakes. I know no other sort of land-animal
on the island. There is a shoal runs out from the south-east
point of the island, half a mile into the sea; and a league to
the north of this shoal point, on the east side, there is a rock
about a mile from the shore, which at the last quarter ebb
appears above water. Besides these two places there is no danger
on this side, but ships may run within a quarter of a mile of the
shore and anchor in 6, 8, 10, or 12 fathom, good clean sand and
oaze.

There are many other islands lying some on the south-west
side, others on the north and north-east sides of this island; as
the island Quicaro, which is a pretty large island south-west of
Quibo, and on the north of it is a small island called the
Rancheria; on which island are plenty of palma-maria-trees.

THE PALMA-MARIA-TREE.

The palma-maria is a tall straight-bodied tree, with a small
head, but very unlike the palm-tree, notwithstanding the name. It
is greatly esteemed for making masts, being very tough, as well
as of a good length; for the grain of the wood runs not straight
along it, but twisting gradually about it. These trees grow in
many places of the West Indies, and are frequently used both by
the English and Spaniards there for that use.

THE ISLES CANALES AND CANTARRAS.

The islands Canales and Cantarras are small islands lying on
the north-east of Rancheria. These have all channels to pass
between, and good anchoring about them; and they are as well
stored with trees and water as Quibo. Sailing without them all,
they appear to be part of the Main. The island Quibo is the
largest and most noted; for although the rest have names yet they
are seldom used only for distinction sake: these, and the rest of
this knot, passing all under the common name of the keys of
Quibo. Captain Swan gave to several of these islands the names of
those English merchants and gentlemen who were owners of his
ship.

June 16th Captain Swan came to an anchor by us: and then our
captains consulted about new methods to advance their fortunes:
and because they were now out of hopes to get anything at sea
they resolved to try what the land would afford. They demanded of
our pilots what towns on the coast of Mexico they could carry us
to. The city of Leon being the chiefest in the country (anything
near us) though a pretty way within land, was pitched on.

THEY BUILD CANOES FOR A NEW EXPEDITION; AND TAKE PUEBLA
NOVA.

But now we wanted canoes to land our men, and we had no other
way but to cut down trees and make as many as we had occasion
for, these islands affording plenty of large trees fit for our
purpose. While this was doing we sent 150 men to take Puebla Nova
(a town upon the Main near the innermost of these islands) to get
provision: it was in going to take this town that Captain Sawkins
was killed in the year 1680, who was succeeded by Sharp. Our men
took the town with much ease, although there was more strength of
men than when Captain Sawkins was killed. They returned again the
24th day, but got no provision there. They took an empty bark in
their way, and brought her to us.

CAPTAIN KNIGHT JOINS THEM.

The 5th day of July Captain Knight, mentioned in my last
chapter, came to us. He had been cruising a great way to the
westward but got nothing beside a good ship. At last he went to
the southward, as high as the Bay of Guayaquil, where he took a
bark-log, or pair of bark-logs as we call it, laden chiefly with
flour. She had other goods, as wine, oil, brandy, sugar, soap,
and leather of goats' skins: and he took out as much of each as
he had occasion for, and then turned her away again. The master
of the float told him that the king's ships were gone from Lima
towards Panama: that they carried but half the king's treasure
with them for fear of us, although they had all the strength that
the kingdom could afford: that all the merchant-ships which
should have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta, where
they were to wait for further orders. Captain Knight, having but
few men, did not dare to go to Payta, where, if he had been
better provided, he might have taken them all; but he made the
best of his way into the Bay of Panama, in hopes to find us there
enriched with the spoils of the Lima fleet; but, coming to the
King's Islands, he had advice by a prisoner that we had engaged
with their fleet, but were worsted, and since that made our way
to the westward; and therefore he came hither to seek us. He
presently consorted with us, and set his men to work to make
canoes. Every ship's company made for themselves, but we all
helped each other to launch them, for some were made a mile from
the sea.

CANOES HOW MADE.

The manner of making a canoe is, after cutting down a large
long tree, and squaring the uppermost side, and then turning it
upon the flat side, to shape the opposite side for the bottom.
Then again they turn her, and dig the inside; boring also three
holes in the bottom, one before, one in the middle, and one
abaft, thereby to gauge the thickness of the bottom; for
otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient. We
left the bottoms commonly about three inches thick, and the sides
two inches thick below and one and a half at the top. One or both
of the ends we sharpen to a point.

Captain Davis made two very large canoes; one was 36 foot long
and five or six feet wide; the other 32 foot long and near as
wide as the other. In a month's time we finished our business and
were ready to sail. Here Captain Harris went to lay his ship
aground to clean her, but she being old and rotten fell in
pieces: and therefore he and all his men went aboard of Captain
Davis and Captain Swan. While we lay here we struck turtle every
day, for they were now very plentiful: but from August to March
here are not many. The 18th day of July John Rose, a Frenchman,
and 14 men more belonging to Captain Gronet, having made a new
canoe, came in her to Captain Davis, and desired to serve under
him; and Captain Davis accepted of them because they had a canoe
of their own.

THE COAST AND WINDS BETWEEN QUIBO AND NICOYA.

The 20th day of July we sailed from Quibo, bending our course
for Realejo, which is the port for Leon, the city that we now
designed to attempt. We were now 640 men in eight sail of ships,
commanded by Captain Davis, Captain Swan, Captain Townley, and
Captain Knight, with a fire-ship and three tenders, which last
had not a constant crew. We passed out between the river Quibo
and the Rancheria, leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our larboard
side, and the Rancheria, with the rest of the islands and the
Main on our starboard side. The wind at first was at
south-south-west: we coasted along shore, passing by the Gulf of
Nicoya, the Gulf of Dulce, and by the island Caneo. All this
coast is low land overgrown with thick woods, and there are but
few inhabitants near the shore. As we sailed to the westward we
had variable winds, sometimes south-west and at west-south-west,
and sometimes at east-north-east, but we had them most commonly
at south-west. We had a tornado or two every day, and in the
evening or in the night we had land-winds at
north-north-east.

VOLCAN VIEJO AGAIN.

The 8th day of August, being in the latitude of 11 degrees 20
minutes by observation, we saw a high hill in the country,
towering up like a sugar-loaf, which bore north-east by north. We
supposed it to be Volcan Viejo by the smoke which ascended from
its top; therefore we steered in north and made it plainer, and
then knew it to be that volcano, which is the sea-mark for the
harbour for Realejo; for, as I said before in Chapter 5, it is a
very remarkable mountain. When we had brought this mountain to
bear north-east we got out all our canoes and provided to embark
into them the next day.

The 9th day in the morning, being about eight leagues from the
shore, we left our ships under the charge of a few men, and 520
of us went away in 31 canoes, rowing towards the harbour of
Realejo.

TORNADOES, AND THE SEA ROUGH. REALEJO HARBOUR.

We had fair weather and little wind till two o'clock in the
afternoon, then we had a tornado from the shore, with much
thunder, lightning and rain, and such a gust of wind that we were
all like to be foundered. In this extremity we put right afore
the wind, every canoe's crew making what shift they could to
avoid the threatening danger. The small canoes, being most light
and buoyant, mounted nimbly over the surges, but the great heavy
canoes lay like logs in the sea, ready to be swallowed by every
foaming billow. Some of our canoes were half full of water yet
kept two men constantly heaving it out. The fierceness of the
wind continued about half an hour and abated by degrees; and as
the wind died away so the fury of the sea abated: for in all hot
countries, as I have observed, the sea is soon raised by the
wind, and as soon down again when the wind is gone, and therefore
it is a proverb among the seamen: Up wind, up sea, down wind,
down sea. At seven o'clock in the evening it was quite calm, and
the sea as smooth as a mill-pond. Then we tugged to get in to the
shore, but, finding we could not do it before day, we rowed off
again to keep ourselves out of sight. By that time it was day we
were five leagues from the land, which we thought was far enough
off shore. Here we intended to lie till the evening, but at three
o'clock in the afternoon we had another tornado, more fierce than
that which we had the day before. This put us in greater peril of
our lives, but did not last so long. As soon as the violence of
the tornado was over we rowed in for the shore and entered the
harbour in the night: the creek which leads towards Leon lies on
the south-east side of the harbour. Our pilot, being very well
acquainted here, carried us into the mouth of it, but could carry
us no farther till day because it is but a small creek, and there
are other creeks like it. The next morning as soon as it was
light we rowed into the creek, which is very narrow; the land on
both sides lying so low that every tide it is overflown with the
sea. This sort of land produces red mangrove-trees, which are
here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing through
them. Beyond these mangroves, on the firm land close by the side
of the river, the Spaniards have built a breast-work, purposely
to hinder an enemy from the landing. When we came in sight of the
breast-work we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore: the noise
of our oars alarmed the Indians who were set to watch, and
presently they ran away towards the city of Leon to give notice
of our approach. We landed as soon as we could and marched after
them: 470 men were drawn out to march to the town, and I was left
with 59 men more to stay and guard the canoes till their
return.

THE CITY OF LEON TAKEN AND BURNT.

The city of Leon is 20 mile up in the country: the way to it
plain and even through a champion country of long grassy
savannahs and spots of high woods. About five mile from the
landing-place there is a sugar-work, three mile farther there is
another, and two mile beyond that there is a fine river to ford,
which is not very deep, besides which there is no water in all
the way till you come to an Indian town which is two miles before
you come to the city, and from thence it is a pleasant straight
sandy way to Leon. This city stands in a plain not far from a
high peaked mountain which oftentimes casts forth fire and smoke
from its top. It may be seen at sea and it is called the volcano
of Leon. The houses of Leon are not high built but strong and
large, with gardens about them. The walls are stone and the
covering of pan-tile: there are three churches and a cathedral
which is the head church in these parts. Our countryman Mr. Gage,
who travelled in these parts, recommends it to the world as the
pleasantest place in all America, and calls it the Paradise of
the Indies. Indeed if we consider the advantage of its situation
we may find it surpassing most places for health and pleasure in
America, for the country about it is of a sandy soil which soon
drinks up all the rain that falls, to which these parts are much
subject. It is encompassed with savannahs; so that they have the
benefit of the breezes coming from any quarter; all which makes
it a very healthy place. It is a place of no great trade and
therefore not rich in money. Their wealth lies in their pastures,
and cattle, and plantations of sugar. It is said that they make
cordage here of hemp, but if they have any such manufactory it is
at some distance from the town, for here is no sign of any such
thing.

Thither our men were now marching; they went from the canoes
about eight o'clock. Captain Townley, with 80 of the briskest
men, marched before, Captain Swan with 100 men marched next, and
Captain Davis with 170 men marched next, and Captain Knight
brought up the rear. Captain Townley, who was near two mile ahead
of the rest, met about 70 horsemen four miles before he came to
the city, but they never stood him. About three o'clock Captain
Townley, only with his 80 men, entered the town, and was briskly
charged in a broad street with 170 or 200 Spanish horsemen, but,
two or three of their leaders being knocked down, the rest fled.
Their foot consisted of about 500 men, which were drawn up in the
parade; for the Spaniards in these parts make a large square in
every town, though the town itself be small. The square is called
the parade: commonly the church makes one side of it, and the
gentlemen's houses, with their galleries about them, the other.
But the foot also seeing their horse retire left an empty city to
Captain Townley; beginning to save themselves by flight. Captain
Swan came in about four o'clock, Captain Davis with his men about
five, and Captain Knight with as many men as he could encourage
to march came in about six, but he left many men tired on the
road; these, as is usual, came dropping in one or two at a time,
as they were able. The next morning the Spaniards killed one of
our tired men; he was a stout old grey-headed man, aged about 84,
who had served under Oliver in the time of the Irish rebellion;
after which he was at Jamaica, and had followed privateering ever
since. He would not accept of the offer our men made him to tarry
ashore but said he would venture as far as the best of them: and
when surrounded by the Spaniards he refused to take quarter, but
discharged his gun amongst them, keeping a pistol still charged,
so they shot him dead at a distance. His name was Swan; he was a
very merry hearty old man and always used to declare he would
never take quarter: but they took Mr. Smith who was tired also;
he was a merchant belonging to Captain Swan and, being carried
before the governor of Leon, was known by a Mulatta woman that
waited on him. Mr. Smith had lived many years in the Canaries and
could speak and write very good Spanish, and it was there this
Mulatta woman remembered him. He being examined how many men we
were said 1000 at the city, and 500 at the canoes, which made
well for us at the canoes, who straggling about every day might
easily have been destroyed. But this so daunted the governor that
he did never offer to molest our men, although he had with him
above 1000 men, as Mr. Smith guessed. He sent in a flag of truce
about noon, pretending to ransom the town rather than let it be
burnt, but our captains demanded 300,000 pieces-of-eight for its
ransom, and as much provision as would victual 1000 men four
months, and Mr. Smith to be ransomed for some of their prisoners;
but the Spaniards did not intend to ransom the town, but only
capitulated day after day to prolong time, till they had got more
men. Our captains therefore, considering the distance that they
were from the canoes, resolved to be marching down. The 14th day
in the morning they ordered the city to be set on fire, which was
presently done, and then they came away: but they took more time
in coming down than in going up. The 15th day in the morning the
Spaniards sent in Mr. Smith and had a gentlewoman in
exchange.

REALEJO CREEK; THE TOWN AND COMMODITIES; THE GUAVA-FRUIT, AND
PRICKLY-PEAR.

Then our captains sent a letter to the governor to acquaint
him that they intended next to visit Realejo, and desired to meet
him there: they also released a gentleman on his promise of
paying 150 beefs for his ransom, and to deliver them to us at
Realejo; and the same day our men came to their canoes: where,
having stayed all night, the next morning we all entered our
canoes and came to the harbour of Realejo, and in the afternoon
our ships came thither to an anchor.

The creek that leads to Realejo lies from the north-west part
of the harbour and it runs in northerly. It is about two leagues
from the island in the harbour's mouth to the town; two thirds of
the way it is broad, then you enter a narrow deep creek, bordered
on both sides with red mangrove trees whose limbs reach almost
from one side to the other. A mile from the mouth of the creek it
turns away west. There the Spaniards have made a very strong
breast-work fronting towards the mouth of the creek, in which
were placed 100 soldiers to hinder us from landing: and 20 yards
below that breast-work there was a chain of great trees placed
cross the creek so that 10 men could have kept off 500 or
1000.

When we came in sight of the breast-work we fired but two guns
and they all ran away: and we were afterwards near half an hour
cutting the boom or chain. Here we landed and marched to the town
of Realejo, or Rea Lejo, which is about a mile from hence. This
town stands on a plain by a small river. It is a pretty large
town with three churches and a hospital that has a fine garden
belonging to it: besides many large fair houses, they all stand
at a good distance one from another, with yards about them. This
is a very sickly place and I believe has need enough of a
hospital; for it is seated so nigh the creeks and swamps that it
is never free from a noisome smell. The land about it is a strong
yellow clay: yet where the town stands it seems to be sand. Here
are several sorts of fruits, as guavas, pineapples, melons, and
prickly-pears. The pineapple and melon are well known.

The guava fruit grows on a hard scrubbed shrub whose bark is
smooth and whitish, the branches pretty long and small, the leaf
somewhat like the leaf of a hazel, the fruit much like a pear,
with a thin rind; it is full of small hard seeds, and it may be
eaten while it is green, which is a thing very rare in the
Indies: for most fruit, both in the East or West Indies, is full
of clammy, white, unsavoury juice before it is ripe, though
pleasant enough afterwards. When this fruit is ripe it is yellow,
soft, and very pleasant. It bakes as well as a pear, and it may
be coddled, and it makes good pies. There are of divers sorts,
different in shape, taste, and colour. The inside of some is
yellow, of others red. When this fruit is eaten green, it is
binding, when ripe, it is loosening.

The prickly-pear, bush, or shrub, of about four or five foot
high, grows in many places of the West Indies, as at Jamaica and
most other islands there; and on the Main in several places. This
prickly shrub delights most in barren sandy grounds; and they
thrive best in places that are near the sea: especially where the
sand is saltish. The tree or shrub is three or four foot high,
spreading forth several branches; and on each branch two or three
leaves. These leaves (if I may call them so) are round, as broad
every way as the palm of a man's hand, and as thick; their
substance like house-leek: these leaves are fenced round with
strong prickles above an inch long. The fruit grows at the
farther edge of the leaf. it is as big as a large plum, growing
small near the leaf, and big towards the top, where it opens like
a medlar. This fruit at first is green like the leaf, from whence
it springs with small prickles about it; but when ripe it is of a
deep red colour. The inside is full of small black seeds mixed
with a certain red pulp, like thick syrup. It is very pleasant in
taste, cooling, and refreshing; but if a man eats 15 or 20 of
them they will colour his water, making it look like blood. This
I have often experienced, yet found no harm by it.

A RANSOM PAID HONOURABLY UPON PAROLE: THE TOWN BURNT.

There are many sugar-works in the country, and estancias or
beef farms: there is also a great deal of pitch, tar and cordage,
made in the country, which is the chief of their trade. This town
we approached without any opposition, and found nothing but empty
houses; besides such things as they could not, or would not carry
away, which were chiefly about 500 packs of flour, brought hither
in the great ship that we left at Amapalla, and some pitch, tar
and cordage. These things we wanted and therefore we sent them
all aboard. Here we received 150 beefs, promised by the gentleman
that was released coming from Leon; besides, we visited the
beef-farms every day, and the sugar-works, going in small
companies of 20 or 30 men, and brought away every man his load;
for we found no horses, which if we had, yet the ways were so wet
and dirty that they would not have been serviceable to us. We
stayed here from the 17th till the 24th day, and then some of our
destructive crew set fire to the houses: I know not by whose
order, but we marched away and left them burning; at the
breast-work we embarked into our canoes and returned aboard our
ships.

CAPTAIN DAVIS AND OTHERS GO OFF FOR THE SOUTH COAST.

The 25th day Captain Davis and Captain Swan broke off
consortship; for Captain Davis was minded to return again on the
coast of Peru but Captain Swan desired to go farther to the
westward. I had till this time been with Captain Davis, but now
left him, and went aboard of Captain Swan. It was not from any
dislike to my old Captain, but to get some knowledge of the
northern parts of this continent of Mexico: and I knew that
Captain Swan determined to coast it as far north as he thought
convenient, and then pass over for the East Indies; which was a
way very agreeable to my inclination. Captain Townley, with his
two barks, was resolved to keep us company; but Captain Knight
and Captain Harris followed Captain Davis. The 27th day in the
morning Captain Davis with his ships went out of the harbour,
having a fresh land wind. They were in company, Captain Davis's
ship with Captain Harris in her; Captain Davis's bark and
fire-ship, and Captain Knight in his own ship, in all four sail.
Captain Swan took his last farewell of him by firing fifteen
guns, and he fired eleven in return of the civility.

A CONTAGIOUS SICKNESS AT REALEJO.

We stayed here some time afterwards to fill our water and cut
firewood; but our men, who had been very healthy till now, began
to fall down apace in fevers. Whether it was the badness of the
water or the unhealthiness of the town was the cause of it we did
not know; but of the two I rather believe it was a distemper we
got at Realejo; for it was reported that they had been visited
with a malignant fever in that town, which had occasioned many
people to abandon it; and although this visitation was over with
them, yet their houses and goods might still retain somewhat of
the infection and communicate the same to us.

I the rather believe this because it afterwards raged very
much, not only among us, but also among Captain Davis and his
men, as he told me himself since when I met him in England:
himself had like to have died, as did several of his and our men.
The 3rd day of September we turned ashore all our prisoners and
pilots, they being unacquainted further to the west, which was
the coast that we designed to visit: for the Spaniards have a
very little trade by sea beyond the river Lempa, a little to the
north-west of this place.

About 10 o'clock in the morning the same day we went from
hence, steering westward, being in company four sail, as well as
they who left us, namely, Captain Swan and his bark, and Captain
Townley and his bark, and about 340 men.

TERRIBLE TORNADOES.

We met with very bad weather as we sailed along this coast:
seldom a day passed but we had one or two violent tornadoes and
with them very frightful flashes of lightning and claps of
thunder; I did never meet with the like before nor since. These
tornadoes commonly came out of the north-east. The wind did not
last long but blew very fierce for the time. When the tornadoes
were over we had the wind at west, sometimes at west-south-west
and south-west, and sometimes to the north of the west, as far as
the north-west.

THE VOLCANO OF GUATEMALA; THE RICH COMMODITIES OF THAT
COUNTRY, INDIGO, OTTA OR ANATTA, COCHINEEL, SILVESTER. DRIFTWOOD,
AND PUMICE-STONES.

We kept at a good distance off shore and saw no land till the
14th day; but then being in latitude 12 degrees 50 minutes the
volcano of Guatemala appeared in sight. This is a very high
mountain with two peaks or heads appearing like two sugar-loaves.
It often belches forth flames of fire and smoke from between the
two heads; and this, as the Spaniards do report, happens chiefly
in tempestuous weather. It is called so from the city Guatemala,
which stands near the foot of it about eight leagues from the
South Sea, and by report 40 or 50 leagues from the Gulf of
Matique in the Bay of Honduras, in the North Seas. This city is
famous for many rich commodities that are produced thereabouts
(some almost peculiar to this country) and yearly sent into
Europe, especially four rich dyes, indigo, otta or anatta,
silvester, and cochineel.

Indigo is made of an herb which grows a foot and a half or two
foot high, full of small branches; and the branches full of
leaves, resembling the leaves which grow on flax, but more thick
and substantial. They cut this herb or shrub and cast it into a
large cistern made in the ground for that purpose, which is half
full of water. The indigo stalk or herb remains in the water till
all the leaves and, I think, the skin, rind, or bark rot off, and
in a manner dissolve: but, if any of the leaves should stick
fast, they force them off by much labour, tossing and tumbling
the mass in the water till all the pulpy substance is dissolved.
Then the shrub, or woody part, is taken out, and the water, which
is like ink, being disturbed no more, settles, and the indigo
falls to the bottom of the cistern like mud. When it is thus
settled they draw off the water and take the mud and lay it in
the sun to dry: which there becomes hard, as you see it brought
home.

Otta, or anatta, is a red sort of dye. It is made of a red
flower that grows on shrubs 7 or 8 foot high. It is thrown into a
cistern of water as the indigo is, but with this difference that
there is no stalk, nor so much as the head of the flower, but
only the flower itself pulled off from the head, as you peel
rose-leaves from the bud. This remains in the water till it rots,
and by much jumbling it dissolves to a liquid substance like the
indigo; and, being settled and the water drawn off, the red mud
is made up into rolls or cakes, and laid in the sun to dry. I did
never see any made but at a place called the Angels in Jamaica,
at Sir Thomas Muddiford's plantations, about 20 years since; but
was grubbed up while I was there, and the ground otherwise
employed. I do believe there is none anywhere else on Jamaica:
and even this probably was owing to the Spaniards when they had
that island. Indigo is common enough in Jamaica. I observed they
planted it most in sandy ground: they sow great fields of it and
I think they sow it every year; but I did never see the seeds it
bears. Indigo is produced all over the West Indies, on most of
the Caribbean Islands as well as the Main; yet no part of the
Main yields such great quantities both of indigo and otta as this
country about Guatemala. I believe that otta is made now only by
the Spaniards; for since the destroying that at the Angels
Plantation in Jamaica I have not heard of any improvement made of
this commodity by our countrymen anywhere; and as to Jamaica, I
have since been informed that it is wholly left off there. I know
not what quantities either of indigo or otta are made at Cuba or
Hispaniola: but the place most used by our Jamaica sloops for
these things is the island Porto Rico, where our Jamaica traders
did use to buy indigo for three rials, and otta for four rials
the pound, which is but 2 shillings and 3 pence of our money: and
yet at the same time otta was worth in Jamaica 5 shillings the
pound, and indigo 3 shillings and 6 pence the pound; and even
this also paid in goods; by which means alone they got 50 or 60
per cent. Our traders had not then found the way of trading with
the Spaniards in the Bay of Honduras; but Captain Coxon went
thither (as I take it) at the beginning of the year 1679, under
pretence to cut log-wood, and went into the Gulf of Matique which
is in the bottom of that bay. There he landed with his canoes and
took a whole store-house full of indigo and otta in chests, piled
up in several parcels and marked with different marks ready to be
shipped aboard two ships that then lay in the road purposely to
take it in; but these ships could not come at him, it being
shoal-water. He opened some of the chests of indigo and,
supposing the other chests to be all of the same species, ordered
his men to carry them away. They immediately set to work, and
took the nearest at hand; and having carried out one heap of
chests, they seized on another great pile of a different mark
from the rest, intending to carry them away next. But a Spanish
gentleman, their prisoner, knowing that there was a great deal
more than they could carry away, desired them to take only such
as belonged to the merchants (whose marks he undertook to show
them) and to spare such as had the same mark with those in that
great pile they were then entering upon; because, he said, those
chests belonged to the ship-captains who, following the seas as
themselves did, he hoped they would, for that reason, rather
spare their goods than the merchants. They consented to his
request; but upon their opening their chests (which was not
before they came to Jamaica, where by connivance they were
permitted to sell them) they found that the Don had been too
sharp for them; the few chests which they had taken of the same
mark with the great pile proving to be otta, of greater value by
far than the other; whereas they might as well have loaded the
whole ship with otta, as with indigo.

The cochineel is an insect bred in a sort of fruit much like
the prickly-pear. The tree or shrub that bears it is like the
prickly-pear-tree, about five foot high, and so prickly; only the
leaves are not quite so big, but the fruit is bigger. On the top
of the fruit there grows a red flower: this flower, when the
fruit is ripe, falls down on the top of the fruit, which then
begins to open, and covers it so that no rain nor dew can wet the
inside. The next day, or two days after its falling down, the
flower being then scorched away by the heat of the sun, the fruit
opens as broad as the mouth of a pint-pot, and the inside of the
fruit is by this time full of small red insects with curious thin
wings. As they were bred here, so here they would die for want of
food, and rot in their husks (having by this time eaten up their
mother-fruit) did not the Indians, who plant large fields of
these trees, when once they perceive the fruit open, take care to
drive them out: for they spread under the branches of the tree a
large linen cloth, and then with sticks they shake the branches
and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone,
yet hovering still over the head of their native tree, but the
heat of the sun so disorders them that they presently fall down
dead on the cloth spread for that purpose, where the Indians let
them remain two or three days longer till they are thoroughly
dry. When they fly up they are red, when they fall down they are
black; and when first they are quite dry they are white as the
sheet wherein they lie, though the colour change a little after.
These yield the much esteemed scarlet. The cochineel-trees are
called by the Spaniard toonas: they are planted in the country
about Guatemala, and about Cheapo and Guaxaca, all three in the
kingdom of Mexico. The silvester is a red grain growing in a
fruit much resembling the cochineel-fruit; as does also the tree
that bears it. There first shoots forth a yellow flower, then
comes the fruit, which is longer than the cochineel-fruit. The
fruit being ripe opens also very wide. The inside being full of
these small seeds or grains they fall out with the least touch or
shake. The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive
the seed and then shake it down. These trees grow wild; and eight
or ten of these fruits will yield an ounce of seed: but of the
cochineel fruits three or four will yield an ounce of insects.
The silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the cochineel and
so like it as to be often mistaken for it, but it is not near so
valuable. I often made enquiry how the silvester grows, and of
the cochineel; but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish
gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies, and some
years where these grow; and from him I had these relations. He
was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted
in the Bay of Campeachy; therefore I examined him in many
particulars concerning that bay, where I was well acquainted
myself, living there three years. He gave very true and pertinent
answers to all my demands, so that I could have no distrust of
what he related.

When we first saw the mountain of Guatemala we were by
judgment 25 leagues distance from it. As we came nearer the land
it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no fire but a little
smoke proceeding from it. The land by the sea was of a good
height yet but low in comparison with that in the country. The
sea for about eight or ten leagues from the shore was full of
floating trees, or driftwood, as it is called (of which I have
seen a great deal but nowhere so much as here) and pumice-stones
floating, which probably are thrown out of the burning mountains
and washed down to the shore by the rains, which are very violent
and frequent in this country; and on the side of Honduras it is
excessively wet.

THE COAST FURTHER ON THE NORTH-WEST. CAPTAIN TOWNLEY'S
FRUITLESS EXPEDITION TOWARDS TECOANTEPEQUE.

The 24th day we were in latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes north,
and the weather more settled. Then Captain Townley took with him
106 men in nine canoes and went away to the westward where he
intended to land and rummage in the country for some refreshment
for our sick men, we having at this time near half our men sick,
and many were dead since we left Realejo. We in the ships lay
still with our topsails furled and our corses or lower sails
hauled up this day and the next that Captain Townley might get
the start of us.

The 26th day we made sail again, coasting to the westward,
having the wind at north and fair weather. We ran along by a
tract of very high land which came from the eastward, more within
land than we could see; after we fell in with it it bore us
company for about 10 leagues, and ended with a pretty gentle
descent towards the west.

There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low country which
seemed to be rich in pasturage for cattle. It was plentifully
furnished with groves of green trees mixed among the grassy
savannahs: here the land was fenced from the sea with high sandy
hills, for the waves all along this coast run high, and beat
against the shore very boisterously, making the land wholly
unapproachable in boats or canoes: so we coasted still along by
this low land, eight or nine leagues farther, keeping close to
the shore for fear of missing Captain Townley. We lay by in the
night and in the day made an easy sail.

The 2nd day of October Captain Townley came aboard; he had
coasted along shore in his canoes, seeking for an entrance, but
found none. At last, being out of hopes to find any bay, creek,
or river, into which he might safely enter, he put ashore on a
sandy bay, but overset all his canoes: he had one man drowned,
and several lost their arms, and some of them that had not waxed
up their cartage or cartouche boxes wet all their powder. Captain
Townley with much ado got ashore and dragged the canoes up dry on
the bay; then every man searched his cartouche box and drew the
wet powder out of his gun, and provided to march into the country
but, finding it full of great creeks which they could not ford,
they were forced to return again to their canoes. In the night
they made good fires to keep themselves warm; the next morning
200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately
repulsed, and made greater speed back than they had done forward.
Captain Townley followed them, but not far for fear of his
canoes. These men came from Tehuantapec, a town that Captain
Townley went chiefly to seek because the Spanish books make
mention of a large river there; but whether it was run away at
this time, or rather Captain Townley and his men were
short-sighted, I know not; but they could not find it.

Upon his return we presently made sail, coasting still
westward, having the wind at east-north-east fair weather and a
fresh gale. We kept within two mile of the shore, sounding all
the way; and found at six miles distance from land 19 fathom; at
eight miles distance 21 fathom, gross sand.

THE ISLAND TANGOLA, AND NEIGHBOURING CONTINENT.

We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at, so we
sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high island
called Tangola, where there is good anchoring. The island is
indifferently well furnished with wood and water, and lies about
a league from the shore. The Main against the island is pretty
high champion savannah land by the sea; but two or three leagues
within land it is higher and very woody.

GUATULCO PORT. THE BUFFADORE, OR WATER-SPOUT.

We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco. This port is
in latitude 15 degrees 30 minutes. It is one of the best in all
this kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the mouth of the harbour
on the east side there is a little island close by the shore; and
on the west side of the mouth of the harbour there is a great
hollow rock, which by the continual working of the sea in and out
makes a great noise, which may be heard a great way. Every surge
that comes in forces the water out of a little hole on its top,
as out of a pipe, from whence it flies out just like the blowing
of a whale; to which the Spaniards also liken it. They call this
rock and spout the Buffadore: upon what account I know not. Even
in the calmest seasons the sea beats in there, making the water
spout at the hole: so that this is always a good mark to find the
harbour by. The harbour is about three mile deep and one mile
broad; it runs in north-west. But the west side of the harbour is
best to ride in for small ships; for there you may ride
land-locked: whereas anywhere else you are open to the south-west
winds which often blow here. There is good clean ground anywhere,
and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathom; it is bounded
with a smooth sandy shore, very good to land at; and at the
bottom of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water
running into the sea.

RUINS OF GUATULCO VILLAGE. THE COAST ADJOINING.

Here formerly stood a small Spanish town or village which was
taken by Sir Francis Drake: but now there is nothing remaining of
it beside a little chapel standing among the trees about 200
paces from the sea. The land appears in small short ridges
parallel to the shore and to each other, the innermost still
gradually higher than that nearer the shore; and they are all
clothed with very high flourishing trees, that it is
extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance: I
have nowhere seen anything like it.

CAPTAIN TOWNLEY MARCHES TO THE RIVER CAPALITA.

At this place Captain Swan, who had been very sick, came
ashore, and all the sick men with him, and the surgeon to tend
them. Captain Townley again took a company of men with him and
went into the country to seek for houses or inhabitants. He
marched away to the eastward and came to the river Capalita:
which is a swift river, yet deep near the mouth, and is about a
league from Guatulco. There two of his men swam over the river
and took three Indians that were placed there as sentinels to
watch for our coming. These could none of them speak Spanish; yet
our men by signs made them understand that they desired to know
if there was any town or village near; who by the signs which
they made gave our men to understand that they could guide them
to a settlement: but there was no understanding by them whether
it was a Spanish or Indian settlement, nor how far it was
thither. They brought these Indians aboard with them, and the
next day, which was the 6th day of October, Captain Townley with
140 men (of whom I was one) went ashore again, taking one of
these Indians with us for a guide to conduct us to this
settlement.

TURTLE AT GUATULCO. AN INDIAN SETTLEMENT.

Our men that stayed aboard filled our water, and cut wood, and
mended our sails: and our Moskito men struck three or four turtle
every day. They were a small sort of turtle, and not very sweet,
yet very well esteemed by us all because we had eaten no flesh a
great while. The 8th day we returned out of the country, having
been about 14 miles directly within land before we came to any
settlement. There we found a small Indian village, and in it a
great quantity of vinelloes drying in the sun.

THE VINELLO-PLANT AND FRUIT.

The vinello is a little cod full of small black seeds; it is
four or five inches long, about the bigness of the stem of a
tobacco leaf, and when dried much resembling it: so that our
privateers at first have often thrown them away when they took
any, wondering why the Spaniards should lay up tobacco stems.
This cod grows on a small vine which climbs about and supports
itself by the neighbouring trees: it first bears a yellow flower
from whence the cod afterwards proceeds. It is first green, but
when ripe it turns yellow; then the Indians (whose manufacture it
is, and who sell it cheap to the Spaniards) gather it, and lay it
in the sun, which makes it soft; then it changes to a
chestnut-colour. Then they frequently press it between their
fingers, which makes it flat. If the Indians do anything to them
beside I know not; but I have seen the Spaniards sleek them with
oil.

These vines grow plentifully at Boca Toro, where I have
gathered and tried to cure them, but could not: which makes me
think that the Indians have some secret that I know not of to
cure them. I have often asked the Spaniards how they were cured,
but I never could meet with any could tell me. One Mr. Cree also,
a very curious person who spoke Spanish well and had been a
privateer all his life, and seven years a prisoner among the
Spaniards at Portobello and Cartagena, yet upon all his enquiry
could not find any of them that understood it. Could we have
learnt the art of it several of us would have gone to Boca Toro
yearly at the dry season and cured them, and freighted our
vessel. We there might have had turtle enough for food, and store
of vinelloes. Mr. Cree first showed me those at Boca Toro. At or
near a town also, called Caihooca in the Bay of Campeachy, these
cods are found. They are commonly sold for three pence a cod
among the Spaniards in the West Indies, and are sold by the
druggist, for they are much used among chocolate to perfume it.
Some will use them among tobacco for it gives a delicate scent. I
never heard of any vinelloes but here in this country, about
Caihooca, and at Boca Toro.

The Indians of this village could speak but little Spanish.
They seemed to be a poor innocent people: and by them we
understood that there are very few Spaniards in these parts; yet
all the Indians hereabout are under them. The land from the sea
to their houses is black earth mixed with some stones and rocks;
all the way full of very high trees.

The 10th day we sent four canoes to the westward who were
ordered to lie for us at Port Angels; where we were in hopes that
by some means or other they might get prisoners that might give
us a better account of the country than at present we could have;
and we followed them with our ships, all our men being now pretty
well recovered of the fever which had raged amongst as ever since
we departed from Realejo.

Chapter IX

They Set out from Guatulco.

It was the 12th of October 1685 when we set out of the harbour
of Guatulco with our ships. The land here lies along west and a
little southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues, and the sea-winds
are commonly at west-south-west, sometimes at south-west, the
land-winds at north. We had now fair weather and but little
wind.

THE ISLE SACRIFICIO.

We coasted along to the westward, keeping as near the shore as
we could for the benefit of the land-winds, for the sea-winds
were right against us; and we found a current setting to the
eastward which kept us back and obliged us to anchor at the
island Sacrificio, which is a small green island about half a
mile long. It lies about a league to the west of Guatulco and
about half a mile from the Main. There seems to be a fine bay to
the west of the island; but it is full of rocks. The best riding
is between the island and the Main: there you will have five or
six fathom water. Here runs a pretty strong tide; the sea rises
and falls five or six foot up and down.

The 18th day we sailed from hence, coasting to the westward
after our canoes. We kept near the shore, which was all sandy
bays, the country pretty high and woody, and a great sea tumbling
in upon the shore. The 22nd day two of our canoes came aboard and
told us they had been a great way to the westward, but could not
find Port Angels. They had attempted to land the day before at a
place where they saw a great many bulls and cows feeding, in
hopes to get some of them; but the sea ran so high that they
overset both canoes, and wet all their arms, and lost four guns,
and had one man drowned, and with much ado got off again. They
could give no account of the other two canoes for they lost
company the first night that they went from Guatulco and had not
seen them since.

PORT ANGELS.

We were now abreast of Port Angels, though our men in the
canoes did not know it; therefore we went in and anchored there.
This is a broad open bay with two or three rocks at the west
side. Here is good anchoring all over the bay in 30 or 20 or 12
fathom water; but you must ride open to all winds except the
land-winds till you come into 12 or 13 fathom water; then you are
sheltered from the west-south-west which are the common trade
winds. The tide rises here about five foot; the flood sets to the
north-east and the ebb to the south-west. The landing in this bay
is bad; the place of landing is close by the west side behind a
few rocks; here always goes a great swell. The Spaniards compare
this harbour for goodness to Guatulco, but there is a great
difference between them. For Guatulco is almost landlocked and
this an open road, and no one would easily know it by their
character of it, but by its marks and its latitude, which is 15
degrees north. For this reason our canoes, which were sent from
Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us, did not know it (not
thinking this to be that fine harbour) and therefore went
farther; two of them, as I said before, returned again, but the
other two were not yet come to us. The land that bounds this
harbour is pretty high, the earth sandy and yellow, in some
places red; it is partly woodland, partly savannahs. The trees in
the woods are large and tall and the savannahs are plentifully
stored with very kindly grass. Two leagues to the east of this
place is a beef farm belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa.

The 23rd day we landed about 100 men and marched thither where
we found plenty of fat bulls and cows feeding in the savannahs,
and in the house good store of salt and maize; and some hogs, and
cocks and hens: but the owners or overseers were gone. We lay
here two or three days feasting on fresh provision, but could not
contrive to carry any quantity aboard because the way was so long
and our men but weak, and a great wide river to ford. Therefore
we returned again from thence the 26th day and brought everyone a
little beef or pork for the men that stayed aboard.

JACKALS.

The two nights that we stayed ashore at this place we heard
great droves of jackals, as we supposed them to be, barking all
night long not far from us. None of us saw these; but I do verily
believe they were jackals; though I did never see these creatures
in America, nor hear any but at this time. We could not think
that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company. We got aboard in
the evening; but did not yet hear any news of our two canoes.

The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence with the
land-wind at north by west. The sea-wind came about noon at
west-south-west, and in the evening we anchored in 16 fathom
water by a small rocky island which lies about half a mile from
the Main and six leagues westward from Port Angels. The Spaniards
give no account of this island in their pilot-book. The 28th day
we sailed again with the land-wind: in the afternoon the
sea-breeze blew hard and we sprung our main-top-mast. This coast
is full of small hills and valleys, and a great sea falls in upon
the shore. In the night we met with the other two of our canoes
that went from us at Guatulco. They had been as far as Acapulco
to seek Port Angels. Coming back from thence they went into a
river to get water and were encountered by 150 Spaniards, yet
they filled their water in spite of them, but had one man shot
through the thigh. Afterward they went into a lagoon, or lake of
salt water, where they found much dried fish and brought some
aboard. We being now abreast of that place sent in a canoe manned
with twelve men for more fish. The mouth of this lagoon is not
pistol-shot wide, and on both sides are pretty high rocks, so
conveniently placed by nature that many men may abscond behind;
and within the rocks and lagoon opens wide on both sides.

A NARROW ESCAPE.

The Spaniards, being alarmed by our two canoes that had been
there two or three days before, came armed to this place to
secure their fish; and seeing our canoe coming, they lay snug
behind the rocks, and suffered the canoe to pass in, then they
fired their volley and wounded five of our men. Our people were a
little surprised at this sudden adventure, yet fired their guns
and rowed farther into the lagoon, for they durst not adventure
to come out again through the narrow entrance which was near a
quarter of a mile in length. Therefore they rowed into the middle
of the lagoon where they lay out of gun-shot and looked about to
see if there was not another passage to get out at, broader than
that by which they entered, but could see none. So they lay still
two days and three nights, in hopes that we should come to seek
them; but we lay off at sea about three leagues distant, waiting
for their return, supposing by their long absence that they had
made some greater discovery and were gone farther than the
fish-range; because it is usual with privateers when they enter
upon such designs to search farther than they proposed if they
meet any encouragement. But Captain Townley and his bark being
nearer the shore heard some guns fired in the lagoon. So he
manned his canoe and went towards the shore, and, beating the
Spaniards away from the rocks, made a free passage for our men to
come out of their pound, where else they must have been starved
or knocked on the head by the Spaniards. They came aboard their
ships again the 31st of October. This lagoon is about the
latitude of 16 degrees 40 minutes north.

THE ROCK ALGATROSS, AND THE NEIGHBOURING COAST.

From hence we made sail again, coasting to the westward,
having fair weather and a current setting to the west. The second
day of November we passed by a rock called by the Spaniards the
Algatross. The land hereabout is of an indifferent height and
woody, and more within the country mountainous. Here are seven or
eight white cliffs by the sea, which are very remarkable because
there are none so white and so thick together on all the coast.
They are five or six mile to the west of the Algatross Rock.
There is a dangerous shoal lies south by west from these cliffs,
four or five mile off at sea. Two leagues to the west of these
cliffs there is a pretty large river which forms a small island
at its mouth. The channel on the east side is but shoal and
sandy, but the west channel is deep enough for canoes to enter.
On the banks of this channel the Spaniards have made a
breast-work to hinder an enemy from landing or filling water.

The 3rd day we anchored abreast of this river in 14 fathom
water about a mile and a half off shore. The next morning we
manned our canoes and went ashore to the breast-work with little
resistance, although there were about 200 men to keep us off.
They fired about twenty or thirty guns at us but seeing we were
resolved to land they quitted the place; one chief reason why the
Spaniards are so frequently routed by us, although many times
much our superiors in numbers, and in many places fortified with
breast-works, is their want of small firearms, for they have but
few on all the sea coasts unless near their larger garrisons.
Here we found a great deal of salt, brought hither, as I judge,
for to salt fish, which they take in the lagoons.

SNOOK, A SORT OF FISH.

The fish I observed here mostly were what we call snook,
neither a sea-fish nor fresh water-fish, but very numerous in
these salt lakes. This fish is about a foot long, and round, and
as thick as the small of a man's leg, with a pretty long head: it
has scales of a whitish colour and is good meat. How the
Spaniards take them I know not, for we never found any nets,
hooks or lines; neither yet any bark, boat, or canoe among them
on all this coast, except the ship I shall mention at
Acapulco.

THE TOWN OF ACAPULCO.

We marched two or three leagues into the country and met with
but one house, where we took a Mulatto prisoner who informed us
of a ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco; she came from
Lima. Captain Townley, wanting a good ship, thought now he had an
opportunity of getting one if he could persuade his men to
venture with him into the harbour of Acapulco and fetch this Lima
ship out. Therefore he immediately proposed it and found not only
all his own men willing to assist him but many of Captain Swan's
men also. Captain Swan opposed it because, provision being scarce
with us, he thought our time might be much better employed in
first providing ourselves with food, and here was plenty of maize
in the river where we now were, as we were informed by the same
prisoner who offered to conduct us to the place where it was.

OF THE TRADE IT DRIVES WITH THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

But neither the present necessity nor Captain Swan's
persuasion availed anything, no nor yet their own interest; for
the great design we had then in hand was to lie and wait for a
rich ship which comes to Acapulco every year richly laden from
the Philippine Islands. But it was necessary we should be well
stored with provisions to enable us to cruise about and wait the
time of her coming. However, Townley's party prevailing, we only
filled our water here and made ready to be gone. So the 5th day
in the afternoon we sailed again, coasting to the westward
towards Acapulco.

THE HAVEN OF ACAPULCO.

The 7th day in the afternoon, being about twelve leagues from
the shore, we saw the high land of Acapulco, which is very
remarkable: for there is a round hill standing between two other
hills; the westermost of which is the biggest and highest, and
has two hillocks like two paps on its top: the eastermost hill is
higher and sharper than the middlemost. From the middle hill the
land declines toward the sea, ending in a high round point. There
is no land shaped like this on all the coast. In the evening
Captain Townley went away from the ships with 140 men in twelve
canoes to try to get the Lima ship out of Acapulco Harbour.

Acapulco is a pretty large town, 17 degrees north of the
Equator. It is the sea-port for the city of Mexico on the west
side of the continent; as La Vera Cruz, or St. John d'Ulloa in
the Bay of Nova Hispania is on the north side. This town is the
only place of trade on all this coast; for there is little or no
traffic by sea on all the north-west part of this vast kingdom,
here being, as I have said, neither boats, barks, nor ships (that
I could ever see) unless only what come hither from other parts,
and some boats near the south-east end of California; as I guess,
by the intercourse between that and the Main, for
pearl-fishing.

The ships that trade hither are only three, two that
constantly go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia, one
of the Philippine Islands, and one ship more every year to and
from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before
Christmas; she brings them quicksilver, cocoa, and
pieces-of-eight. Here she stays till the Manila ships arrive, and
then takes in a cargo of spices, silks, calicoes, and muslins,
and other East India commodities, for the use of Peru, and then
returns to Lima. This is but a small vessel of twenty guns, but
the two Manila ships are each said to be above 1000 tun. These
make their voyages alternately so that one or other of them is
always at the Manilas. When either of them sets out from Acapulco
it is at the latter end of March or the beginning of April; she
always touches to refresh at Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, in
about sixty days space after she sets out. There she stays but
two or three days and then prosecutes her voyage to Manila where
she commonly arrives some time in June. By that time the other is
ready to sail from thence laden with East India commodities. She
stretches away to the north as far as 36, or sometimes into 40
degrees of north latitude before she gets a wind to stand over to
the American shore. She falls in first with the coast of
California, and then coasts along the shore to the south again,
and never misses a wind to bring her away from thence quite to
Acapulco. When she gets the length of Cape San Lucas, which is
the southermost point of California, she stretches over to Cape
Corrientes, which is in about the 20th degree of north latitude.
From thence she coasts along till she comes to Sallagua, and
there she sets ashore passengers that are bound to the city of
Mexico: from thence she makes her best way, coasting still along
shore, till she arrives at Acapulco, which is commonly about
Christmas, never more than eight or ten days before or after.
Upon the return of this ship to the Manila the other which stays
there till her arrival takes her turn back to Acapulco. Sir John
Narborough therefore was imposed on by the Spaniards who told him
that there were eight sail, or more, that used this trade.

The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of
ships, and so large that some hundreds may safely ride there
without damnifying each other. There is a small low island
crossing the mouth of the harbour; it is about a mile and a half
long and half a mile broad, stretching east and west. It leaves a
good wide deep channel at each end where ships may safely go in
or come out, taking the advantage of the winds; they must enter
with the sea-wind, and go out with the land-wind, for these winds
seldom or never fail to succeed each other alternately in their
proper season of the day or night. The westermost channel is the
narrowest, but so deep there is no anchoring, and the Manila
ships pass in that way, but the ships from Lima enter on the
south-west channel. This harbour runs in north about three miles
then, growing very narrow, it turns short about to the west and
runs about a mile farther, where it ends. The town stands on the
north-west side at the mouth of this narrow passage, close by the
sea, and at the end of the town there is a platform with a great
many guns. Opposite to the town, on the east side, stands a high
strong castle, said to have forty guns of a very great bore.
Ships commonly ride near the bottom of the harbour, under the
command both of the castle and the platform.

A TORNADO.

Captain Townley, who, as I said before, with 140 men, left our
ships on a design to fetch the Lima ship out of the harbour, had
not rowed above three or four leagues before the voyage was like
to end with all their lives; for on a sudden they were
encountered with a violent tornado from the shore, which had like
to have foundered all the canoes: but they escaped that danger
and the second night got safe into Port Marquis.

PORT MARQUIS. CAPTAIN TOWNLEY MAKES A FRUITLESS ATTEMPT.

Port Marquis is a very good harbour a league to the east of
Acapulco Harbour. Here they stayed all the next day to dry
themselves, their clothes, their arms and ammunition, and the
next night they rowed softly into Acapulco Harbour; and because
they would not be heard they hauled in their oars, and paddled as
softly as if they had been seeking manatee. They paddled close to
the castle; then struck over to the town, and found the ship
riding between the breast-work and the fort, within about a
hundred yards of each. When they had well viewed her and
considered the danger of the design they thought it not possible
to accomplish it; therefore they paddled softly back again till
they were out of command of the forts, and then they went to
land, and fell in among a company of Spanish soldiers (for the
Spaniards, having seen them the day before, had set guards along
the coast) who immediately fired at them but did them no damage,
only made them retire farther from the shore. They lay afterwards
at the mouth of the harbour till it was day to take a view of the
town and castle, and then returned aboard again, being tired,
hungry, and sorry for their disappointment.

A LONG SANDY BAY, BUT VERY ROUGH SEAS.

The 11th day we made sail again further on to the westward
with the land-wind, which is commonly at north-east, but the
sea-winds are at south-west. We passed by a long sandy bay of
above twenty leagues. All the way along it the sea falls with
such force on the shore that it is impossible to come near it
with boat or canoe; yet it is good clean ground, and good
anchoring a mile or two from the shore. The land by the sea is
low and indifferent fertile, producing many sorts of trees,
especially the spreading palm, which grows in spots from one end
of the bay to the other.

THE PALM-TREE, GREAT AND SMALL.

The palm-tree is as big as an ordinary ash, growing about
twenty or thirty foot high. The body is clear from boughs or
branches till just at the head; there it spreads forth many large
green branches, not much unlike the cabbage-tree before
described. These branches also grow in many places (as in
Jamaica, Darien, the Bay of Campeachy, etc.) from a stump not
above a foot or two high; which is not the remains of a tree cut
down; for none of these sort of trees will ever grow again when
they have once lost their head; but these are a sort of
dwarf-palm, and the branches which grow from the stump are not so
large as those that grow on the great tree. These smaller
branches are used both in the East and West Indies for thatching
houses: they are very lasting and serviceable, much surpassing
the palmetto. For this thatch, if well laid on, will endure five
or six years; and this is called by the Spaniards the
palmetto-royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same name.
Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the palm-wine
from I know not; but I know that it is like this.

THE HILL OF PETAPLAN.

The land in the country is full of small peaked barren hills,
making as many little valleys, which appear flourishing and
green. At the west end of this bay is the hill of Petaplan, in
latitude 17 degrees 30 minutes north. This is a round point
stretching out into the sea: at a distance it seems to be an
island. A little to the west of this hill are several round
rocks, which we left without us, steering in between them and the
round point, where we had eleven fathom water. We came to an
anchor on the north-west side of the hill and went ashore, about
170 men of us, and marched into the country twelve or fourteen
miles.

A POOR INDIAN VILLAGE.

There we came to a poor Indian village that did not afford us
a meal of victuals. The people all fled, only a Mulatta woman and
three or four small children, who were taken and brought aboard.
She told us that a carrier (one who drives a caravan of mules)
was going to Acapulco, laden with flour and other goods, but
stopped in the road for fear of us, a little to the west of this
village (for he had heard of our being on this coast) and she
thought he still remained there: and therefore it was we kept the
woman to be our guide to carry us to that place. At this place
where we now lay our Moskito men struck some small turtle and
many small jewfish.

JEW-FISH.

The jew-fish is a very good fish, and I judge so called by the
English because it has scales and fins, therefore a clean fish,
according to the Levitical law, and the Jews at Jamaica buy them
and eat them very freely. It is a very large fish, shaped much
like a cod but a great deal bigger; one will weigh three, or
four, or five hundredweight. It has a large head, with great fins
and scales, as big as an half-crown, answerable to the bigness of
his body. It is very sweet meat, and commonly fat. This fish
lives among the rocks; there are plenty of them in the West
Indies, about Jamaica and the coast of Caracas; but chiefly in
these seas, especially more westward.

CHEQUETAN, A GOOD HARBOUR.

We went from hence with our ships the 18th [sic] day, and
steered west about two leagues farther to a place called
Chequetan. A mile and a half from the shore there is a small key,
and within it is a very good harbour where ships may careen;
there is also a small river of fresh water, and wood enough.

ESTAPA; MUSSELS THERE.

The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 men in six canoes
to seek for the carrier, taking the Mulatto woman for our guide;
but Captain Townley would not go with us. Before day we landed at
a place called Estapa, a league to the west of Chequetan. The
woman was well acquainted here, having been often at this place
for mussels as she told us; for here are great plenty of them.
They seem in all respects like our English mussels.

A CARAVAN OF MULES TAKEN.

She carried us through the pathless wood by the side of a
river for about a league: then we came into a savannah full of
bulls and cows; and here the carrier before mentioned was lying
at the estancia-house with his mules, not having dared to advance
all this while, as not knowing where we lay; so his own fear made
him, his mules, and all his goods, become a prey to us. He had 40
packs of flour, some chocolate, a great many small cheeses, and
abundance of earthenware. The eatables we brought away, but the
earthen vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them.
The mules were about 60: we brought our prize with them to the
shore, and so turned them away. Here we also killed some cows and
brought with us to our canoes. In the afternoon our ships came to
an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed; and then we
went aboard. Captain Townley, seeing our good success, went
ashore with his men to kill some cows; for here were no
inhabitants near to oppose us. The land is very woody, of a good
fertile soil watered with many small rivers; yet it has but few
inhabitants near the sea. Captain Townley killed 18 beefs, and
after he came aboard our men, contrary to Captain Swan's
inclination, gave Captain Townley part of the flour which we took
ashore. Afterwards we gave the woman some clothes for her and her
children, and put her and two of them ashore; but one of them, a
very pretty boy about seven or eight years old, Captain Swan
kept. The woman cried and begged hard to have him; but Captain
Swan would not, but promised to make much of him and was as good
as his word. He proved afterwards a very fine boy for wit,
courage, and dexterity; I have often wondered at his expressions
and actions.

The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the
land-wind. The land-winds on this part of the coast are at north
and the sea-winds at west-south-west. We had fair weather and
coasted along to the westward. The land is high and full of
ragged hills; and west from these ragged hills the land makes
many pleasant and fruitful valleys among the mountains. The 25th
day we were abreast of a very remarkable hill which, towering
above the rest of his fellows, is divided in the top and makes
two small parts. It is in latitude 18 degrees 8 minutes
north.

A HILL NEAR THELUPAN.

The Spaniards make mention of a town called Thelupan near this
hill, which we would have visited if we could have found the way
to it. The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townley with 200
men, of whom I was one, went in our canoes to seek for the city
of Colima, a rich place by report, but how far within land I
could never learn: for, as I said before, here is no trade by
sea, and therefore we could never get guides to inform us or
conduct us to any town but one or two on this coast: and there is
never a town that lies open to the sea but Acapulco; and
therefore our search was commonly fruitless, as now; for we rowed
above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad coast to
land. We saw no house nor sign of inhabitants, although we passed
by a fine valley called the valley of Maguella; only at two
places, the one at our first setting out on this expedition, and
the other at the end of it, we saw a horseman set, as we
supposed, as a sentinel to watch us. At both places we landed
with difficulty, and at each place we followed the track of the
horse on the sandy bay; but where they entered the woods we lost
the track and, although we diligently searched for it, yet we
could find it no more; so we were perfectly at a loss to find out
the houses or town they came from.

THE COAST HEREABOUTS.

The 28th day, being tired and hopeless to find any town, we
went aboard our ships, that were now come abreast of the place
where we were: for always when we leave our ships we either order
a certain place of meeting, or else leave them a sign to know
where we are by making one or more great smokes; yet we had all
like to have been ruined by such a signal as this in a former
voyage under Captain Sharp, when we made that unfortunate attempt
upon Arica, which is mentioned in the History of the Buccaneers.
For upon the routing our men, and taking several of them, some of
those so taken told the Spaniards that it was agreed between them
and their companions on board to make two great smokes at a
distance from each other as soon as the town should be taken, as
a signal to the ship that it might safely enter the harbour. The
Spaniards made these smokes presently: I was then among those who
stayed on board; and whether the signal was not so exactly made
or some other discouragement happened I remember not, but we
forbore going in till we saw our scattered crew coming off in
their canoes. Had we entered the port upon the false signal we
must have been taken or sunk; for we must have passed close by
the fort and could have had no wind to bring us out till the
land-wind should rise in the night.

THE VOLCANO, TOWN, VALLEY, AND BAY OF COLIMA.

But to our present voyage: after we came aboard we saw the
volcano of Colima. This is a very high mountain in about 18
degrees 36 minutes north, standing five or six leagues from the
sea in the midst of a pleasant valley. It appears with two sharp
peaks, from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or
smoke. The valley in which this volcano stands is called the
valley of Colima from the town itself which stands there not far
from the volcano. The town is said to be great and rich, the
chief of all its neighbourhood: and the valley in which it is
seated, by the relation which the Spaniards give of it, is the
most pleasant and fruitful valley in all the kingdom of Mexico.
This valley is about ten or twelve leagues wide by the sea, where
it makes a small bay: but how far the vale runs into the country
I know not. It is said to be full of cocoa-gardens, fields of
corn, wheat, and plantain-walks. The neighbouring sea is bounded
with a sandy shore; but there is no going ashore for the violence
of the waves. The land within it is low all along and woody for
about two leagues from the east side; at the end of the woods
there is a deep river runs out into the sea, but it has such a
great bar, or sandy shoal, that when we were here no boat or
canoe could possibly enter, the sea running so high upon the bar:
otherwise, I judge, we should have made some farther discovery
into this pleasant valley. On the west side of the river the
savannah-land begins and runs to the other side of the valley. We
had but little wind when we came aboard, therefore we lay off
this bay that afternoon and the night ensuing.

The 29th day our captains went away from our ships with 200
men, intending at the first convenient place to land and search
about for a path: for the Spanish books make mention of two or
three other towns hereabouts, especially one called Sallagua, to
the west of this bay. Our canoes rowed along as near the shore as
they could, but the sea went so high that they could not land.
About 10 or 11 o'clock two horsemen came near the shore, and one
of them took a bottle out of his pocket and drank to our men.
While he was drinking, one of our men snatched up his gun and let
drive at him and killed his horse: so his consort immediately set
spurs to his horse and rode away, leaving the other to come after
a-foot. But he being booted made but slow haste; therefore two of
our men stripped themselves and swam ashore to take him. But he
had a machete, or long knife, wherewith he kept them both from
seizing him, they having nothing in their hands wherewith to
defend themselves or offend him. The 30th day our men came all
aboard again, for they could not find any place to land in.

SALLAGUA PORT.

The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagua.
This port is in latitude 18 degrees 52 minutes. It is only a
pretty deep bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, which
makes, as it were, two harbours. Ships may ride securely in
either but the west harbour is the best: there is good anchoring
anywhere in 10 or 12 fathom, and a brook of fresh water runs into
the sea. Here we saw a great new thatched house, and a great many
Spaniards both horse and foot, with drums beating and colours
flying in defiance of us, as we thought. We took no notice of
them till the next morning, and then we landed about 200 men to
try their courage; but they presently withdrew. The foot never
stayed to exchange one shot, but the horsemen stayed till two or
three were knocked down, and then they drew off, our men pursuing
them. At last two of our men took two horses that had lost their
riders and, mounting them, rode after the Spaniards full drive
till they came among them, thinking to have taken a prisoner for
intelligence, but had like to have been taken themselves: for
four Spaniards surrounded them, after they had discharged their
pistols, and unhorsed them; and if some of our best footmen had
not come to their rescue they must have yielded or have been
killed. They were both cut in two or three places but their
wounds were not mortal. The four Spaniards got away before our
men could hurt them and, mounting their horses, speeded after
their consorts, who were marched away into the country. Our men,
finding a broad road leading into the country, followed it about
four leagues in a dry stony country, full of short wood; but
finding no sign of inhabitants they returned again. In their way
back they took two Mulattos who were not able to march as fast as
their consorts; therefore they had skulked in the woods and by
that means thought to have escaped our men.

ORRHA.

These prisoners informed us that this great road did lead to a
great city called Oarrha, from whence many of those horsemen
before spoken of came: that this city was distant from hence as
far as a horse will go in four days; and that there is no place
of consequence nearer: that the country is very poor and thinly
inhabited.

They said also that these men came to assist the Philippine
ship that was every day expected here to put ashore passengers
for Mexico. The Spanish pilot-books mention a town also called
Sallagua hereabouts; but we could not find it, nor hear anything
of it by our prisoners.

We now intended to cruise off Cape Corrientes to wait for the
Philippine ship. So the 6th day of December we set sail, coasting
to the westward towards Cape Corrientes. We had fair weather and
but little wind; the sea-breezes at north-west and the land-wind
at north.

RAGGED HILLS.

The land is of an indifferent height, full of ragged points
which at a distance appear like islands: the country is very
woody, but the trees are not high, nor very big.

Here I was taken sick of a fever and ague that afterwards
turned to a dropsy which I laboured under a long time after; and
many of our men died of this distemper, though our surgeons used
their greatest skill to preserve their lives. The dropsy is a
general distemper on this coast, and the natives say that the
best remedy they can find for it is the stone or cod of an
alligator (of which they have four, one near each leg, within the
flesh) pulverized and drunk in water: this recipe we also found
mentioned in an almanac made at Mexico: I would have tried it but
we found no alligators here though there are several.

There are many good harbours between Sallagua and Cape
Corrientes but we passed by them all. As we drew near the Cape
the land by the sea appeared of an indifferent height, full of
white cliffs; but in the country the land is high and barren and
full of sharp peaked hills, unpleasant to the sight.

CORONADA, OR THE CROWN LAND.

To the west of this ragged land is a chain of mountains
running parallel with the shore; they end on the west with a
gentle descent; but on the east side they keep their height,
ending with a high steep mountain which has three small sharp
peaked tops, somewhat resembling a crown and therefore called by
the Spaniards Coronada, the Crown Land.

CAPE CORRIENTES.

The 11th day we were fair in sight of Cape Corrientes, it bore
north by west and the Crown Land bore north. The cape is of an
indifferent height with steep rocks to the sea. It is flat and
even on the top, clothed with woods: the land in the country is
high and doubled. This cape lies in 20 degrees 8 minutes north. I
find its longitude from Tenerife to be 230 degrees 56 minutes,
but I keep my longitude westward, according to our course; and
according to this reckoning I find it is from the Lizard in
England 121 degrees 41 minutes, so that the difference of time is
eight hours and almost six minutes.

Here we had resolved to cruise for the Philippine ship because
she always makes this cape in her voyage homeward. We were (as I
have said) four ships in company; Captain Swan and his tender;
Captain Townley and his tender. It was so ordered that Captain
Swan should lie eight or ten leagues off shore, and the rest
about a league distant each from other, between him and the cape,
that so we might not miss the Philippine ship; but we wanted
provision and therefore we sent Captain Townley's bark with 50 or
60 men to the west of the cape to search about for some town or
plantations where we might get provision of any sort. The rest of
us in the meantime cruising in our stations. The 17th day the
bark came to us again but had got nothing, for they could not get
about the cape because the wind on this coast is commonly between
the north-west and the south-west, which makes it very difficult
getting to the westward; but they left four canoes with 46 men at
the cape, who resolved to row to the westward. The 18th day we
sailed to the keys of Chametly to fill our water.