by Heidi Graw
L'anse aux Meadows, on the northern tip of Newfoundland, is the only confirmed Norse archaeological site in North America — the landing place of Leif Erikson's expedition around 1000 CE. For modern Heathens it carries a particular weight: it is the place where the gods followed their people west, and where those people built, lived, and departed. Heidi Graw drove thousands of kilometres across Canada to reach it in June 2005, leaving from Alberta. This post to alt.religion.asatru describes the pilgrimage — not as a tourist excursion but as a journey made with the gods, in weather that moved as they directed, attended by omens along the way.
My journey I will describe on a spiritual plane.
We followed the Gods across the land, covering thousands of kilometres. Odin and Thor led the way. The storm raged ahead of us — thunder, lightning, the wild wind blew. High waters cleansed and purged the land of wickedness in readiness for my little band of travellers, blessed by Frigga, who on occasion provided light cloud cover for our comfort, alternating companionship with Sunna who brightened up our days with brilliant sunshine. Thus our days on the road were spent with much mirth and merriment.
We did, however, catch up with the raging storm as we entered Quebec. We were treated to a wonderful display of thunder, lightning, and an impressive downpour. For our comfort, the Gods had arranged for a shelter from which we could enjoy this marvellous demonstration of the Powers. It was awesome.
I rented a car at Corner Brook, Newfoundland. It was a 2005 Malibu, SE V6, licence HHG-878 — two lucky 8's and one lucky 7. HHG: Hellbound Heidi Graw! I took it as a good omen.
Like a demon out of Hel, I put the pedal to the metal and tore up the highway, shouting "Free — free at last!" and cranking up the radio, rocking and rolling down the highway. Sunna rejoiced. Odin laughed. A raven flew alongside me for a short time. Two sea gulls danced in the air. I clipped along the highway going 120 km/h in a 90 km/h zone. A trucker came barrelling up behind me. I pulled over and let him pass, then paced myself behind him, keeping him approximately a quarter to a half kilometre ahead. Despite the crosswind, he kept up a brisk pace going around those bends, twists, and turns. If he could do it, so could I.
As I neared L'anse aux Meadows, I received a royal welcome. An impressive bull moose wearing his regal headgear greeted me at the side of the road. He looked at me, stepped back two paces, lowered his head, and turned it to indicate that I was given permission to pass. "Thank you, Mr. Moose!" The Queen of Mission Hills was mightily impressed by such a noble gesture.
Just outside of L'anse aux Meadows, I checked into "Snorri's Cabins" at Noddy Bay. How could I refuse? The cabin was delightful.
The following day I inspected the archaeological site and the reconstruction of the village. I bought a book titled The Viking Discovery of America, written by Helge Ingstad and Anne Stine Ingstad. I also visited a reconstruction of a Viking trading post called Norstad. Since I arrived off-season, there were no other tourists around. The caretaker told me to just go ahead and take a look — all the buildings were open. It felt strange touring this village entirely alone, with no one inside any of the buildings. I examined the tools, household utensils, craft implements, furs, and clothing. There was also an impressive Viking ship in one of the hangars. Another was docked at Noddy Bay, used for tourist sailings.
The locals told me that this was the first year anyone could remember without icebergs floating by. Usually around this time of year they have seventeen or eighteen impressive icebergs available for viewing. I was somewhat disappointed. Perhaps Thor was a little too enthusiastic fighting off these Ice Jotuns — surely he could have left a couple behind for me.
As for the village at L'anse aux Meadows itself, it was quaint and tiny. The houses were perched all over the rocky shoreline in a hodge-podge manner, no rhyme nor reason. Tiny gravel lanes connected the houses. I collected a few shells and unique pebbles to take home as mementos of this very special place. The locals were friendly and accommodating. If I didn't understand their dialect, they made an effort to speak "normal" English when necessary.
My trip back down to Port aux Basques went considerably slower. I hated to leave and lingered, stopping here and there to absorb the sights and sounds. I highly recommend that others make a similar journey to L'anse aux Meadows. For me this pilgrimage was very special. I feel privileged to have been given this opportunity. Nothing could have stood in the way to prevent it from happening.
I hail the Gods for their leadership, their protection, and their guidance. They kept me safe while I travelled across this great land called Canada. The Gods with me, and I with them. For that, I am eternally grateful.
Colophon
Heidi Graw (screen name: "Heidi Graw") was a Canadian Asatruar, based in Alberta. A long-standing and warm presence on alt.religion.asatru from 2003 through 2007, she was known for her theological curiosity, her engagement with Old Norse source material, and her work on the Rydberg Reading Project — a series of guided readings through Viktor Rydberg's Teutonic Mythology. This pilgrimage account was posted to alt.religion.asatru on 28 June 2005.
Preserved from the Usenet archive for the Good Work Library by the New Tianmu Anglican Church, 2026. Original Message-ID: Bwhwe.113244$El.62@pd7tw1no.
🌲